Interesting day off. Part 2: Chernihiv
Continuation. Start here:
Chernihiv is the northernmost regional center of Ukraine. Historic Center Left Bank Ukraine, one of the largest cities Kievan Rus. Separate finds from the vicinity of Chernigov indicate that the first settlers appeared here as early as the 4th millennium BC. e. , and the discovered settlements indicate the settlement of the city in the 2nd millennium BC. e. For the first time Chernihiv is mentioned in Tale temporary years under the year 907, when the prince of Kyiv Oleg after a successful campaign against Byzantium obliged the Greeks to pay tribute to the largest cities of Kievan Rus. Chernihiv was mentioned second in the treaty after Kyiv.
Due to its ancient history, the city is full of historical monuments. Most of them are compactly located on the territory of the old city in the "Ancient Chernihiv" nature reserve next to the Detinets park.
By right, the first and most important is the Transfiguration Cathedral. It is one of the oldest Christian churches on the territory of Ukraine and a unique example of the architecture of Kievan Rus. Built under Prince Mstislav the Brave, becoming his tomb. Here is buried Igor Svyatoslavovich, the hero of "The Tale of Igor's Campaign". The interior contains fragments of ancient frescoes, a magnificent iconostasis of the 18th century. Nearby is the archbishop's house (1780), where the archive is now located. The temple is active.
Next to the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral, there is also the St. Boris and Gleb Cathedral. It was built in the 12th century. on the foundation of an older stone structure of the 11th century. and rebuilt several times. During the restoration in the middle of the XX century. the building was restored to its ancient forms. The interior has preserved ancient frescoes and inlaid floors. A museum of architecture is open inside the temple. The administration of the reserve is located in the nearby building of the Collegium (1672), which in the 17th century. was part of the Borisoglebsky monastery - the residence of the Chernigov metropolitans. On the initiative of Archbishop John Maksimovich and with the financial support of Hetman I. Mazepa, one of the first higher schools on the Left Bank was opened here. Now the Collegium is an openwork building with a high bell tower. The collegium classroom was reconstructed in the building, an icon painting exposition was exhibited and the exhibition "Chernigov and Chernigov residents 100 years ago" is open.
All of the listed attractions are located on the territory of Detinets. This is the oldest part of Chernihiv, which is a hill on the high bank of the Desna, where the princely citadel and the city's defense complex were located. Remains of princely houses and dwellings of boyars were found here. In addition to the temples, the Regimental Chancellery (XVIII century), known as the "Lizogub's stone house", and some other buildings of the XVIII-XIX centuries, which house museums and administrative buildings, have been perfectly preserved. After the liquidation of the Chernihiv fortress in the XIX century. the defensive rampart over the river was turned into a park area, monuments to T. Shevchenko and A. Pushkin were erected. On the shaft there are 12 cast-iron bastion cannons of the 17th century, which are considered the visiting card of the city. In the 90s, there was a joke in the city when a girl made an appointment with an unwanted boyfriend at the thirteenth gun : )
On the opposite hill from Detinets, on the Alley of Heroes, is the Catherine Church. It solemnly welcomes everyone entering Chernihiv from Kyiv and is considered a symbol of the city. The temple in the Ukrainian Baroque style was built on the site of an ancient temple of the period of Kievan Rus at the expense of the brothers Semyon and Yakov Lyzogub, according to the will of their father E. Lyzogub in memory of the heroism of their grandfather Yakov Lyzogub and the Cossacks of the Chernihiv regiment, shown by them during the assault on the Turkish fortress of Azov in 1696 d. In Soviet times, the Catherine Church was closed. In 1975-80. restored, after which the exposition of the Museum of Folk and Decorative Art of Chernihiv region was placed inside. Now the temple is active.
From the mighty ramparts of Detinets, a view of the Yelets Assumption Monastery opens up. It was founded in the 11th century. Prince of Chernigov Svyatoslav Yaroslavovich (1027-76) as a suburban princely residence. Restored in 1445-95. after the Mongol-Tatar invasion. Preserved caves of the ancient period. After the reconstruction of the XVII century. the architectural ensemble received the features of the Ukrainian baroque: the Assumption Cathedral (XII century), a 36-meter gate bell tower, the Peter and Paul Church with a refectory, cells, the tomb of Lyzogubs, the wooden house of Archimandrite Theodosius of Uglitsky (1688). In the harsh interior of the cathedral, it was lucky to keep fragments of ancient frescoes.
The road takes us away from the pleasant shade of Detinets towards the complex of the Ilyinsky Monastery. This is the oldest shrine of Chernigov, which is part of the Trinity-Ilyinsky Monastery on the Boldin Hills. The first cave temple and monastery was founded by St. Anthony of the Caves in 1069, when he left the Kiev-Pechersk Lavra, which he had founded. Through the Elias Church (XII century) one can get into the cave part (315 m), where the underground churches of St. Anthony, St. Theodosius and St. Nicholas Svyatosha are located. On the mountain above the monastery there are the Slavic mounds Bezymyanny and Gulbishche, as well as the grave of M. Kotsyubinsky with a monument. Archaeological excavations continue in the dungeons. The architecture and design of the underground temples is quite impressive. Their monk builders managed to create majestic structures underground without the use of paints and finishing materials.
Having freed ourselves from the cold darkness of the underground, our path lies to the Trinity Cathedral, which is also part of the complex of the Trinity-Ilyinsky Monastery. After the Mongol-Tatar invasion, the monastery was revived in 1649 on the initiative of Colonel S. Podobailo. The ensemble of the Trinity Cathedral with a bell tower, the Vvedenskaya Church and the Refectory was built in 1679-1695. at the expense of the Hetman of Ukraine I. Mazepa. Magnificent architecture in the Ukrainian baroque style is the work of the talented Vilnius architect Johann Baptist Sauer (I. Baptist). Since 1790, the Trinity-Ilyinsky Monastery has served as the residence of the Chernigov Archbishop - here is the so-called. "Bishop's House". The monastery itself is not active, but the cathedral is open to parishioners. The relics of saints of Chernigov are buried in the Trinity Cathedral: St. Theodosius of Chernigov, St. Lawrence, St. Philaret (Gumilevsky), particles of the relics of some Kiev saints. The poet-fabulist L. Glebov is buried near the southern wall of the cathedral. The monumental bell tower, 58 m high, is open to the public (195 steps), and the best panorama of Chernigov opens from above.
Returning to the central part of Chernihiv, we find ourselves on the largest square of the city - Red Square ("red" - "beautiful"). Next to it are the Music and Drama Theater. T. G. Shevchenko, whose facade is decorated with a beautiful bas-relief, the ancient Pyatnitskaya Church and a light and musical fountain in a small square.
In general, the city leaves a very pleasant aftertaste. Clean, comfortable and beautiful. Immersed in the greenery of the trees. Washed with the freshness of fountains and saturated with the aroma of flowering flower beds. Spacious and intimate at the same time. An ancient city full of kids and youth. A city that sings from the central squares for lovely pensioners dancing next to the majestic monuments of ancient architecture. A city where you want to return.
