Good city Ternopil (c), part 2
You can read about the day before here: Nice city of Ternopil (c), Part 1
I am Orthodox by religion, but my brother is a Catholic. Well, since it has traditionally happened that Greek Catholicism predominates in Western Ukraine, for some reason we were both convinced that there are no Orthodox churches in Ternopil. That is why their Easter basket was consecrated the day before in the Greek Catholic Church. I did not go to the all-out service (I did not have the strength after the gluttony in the Ark). Therefore, the next morning we decided to start with a visit to the Roman Catholic Church. I looked up the schedule of services on the Internet and left.
The tablet navigator, which we affectionately call Agrippina, led us to a cozy courtyard. There are no signs around. A passerby was asked the way to the church. Immediately went to the local Arbat.
On ordinary days, Valova Street is a café , open-air openings, in short, a local bohemian gathers here. But it was Easter Sunday. And as is typical for Western Ukraine, the streets were quiet and deserted during the service. Believers - in temples (or near them, if there is no space inside). That's why we walked this small street (or rather, went to the church) alone:
But even on this short stretch of road there was so much that I didn't even bother with the choice of objects. I just clicked my camera left and right:
Here you can see the only facade that has survived since Austrian times.
Subwoofers! Ahhh! ! ! ! !
And I don't know what I'd like to do before I die ...
Italy. Isn't it? : )
Do portraits of S. Bandera and Taras Shevchenko decorate the window of a jewelry store in your city? : )
Along the way, she added to her personal "pavement":
Touched by the diminutive inscription on the kiosk:
Is it really so appetizing than just dry "Bread"? ! !
Surprised by the unusual tree near the church:
Many trees in the city center were decorated with such cardboard "paints" and "Easter eggs"
Children's swings hit right next to the walls of the ancient Dominican Church:
And the number of people near the temple:
It turned out that I was wrong, thinking that this church is Roman Catholic. The church was like that before and was then called the Dominican Church. Now it belongs to the Greek Catholics, and now it is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the UGCC.
There was an Easter Sunday service (Orthodox and Greek Catholics have the same church dates, and the rites themselves are very similar in many ways). Those who did not have enough space inside, stood quietly on the street and listened to the service through the speakers. They were baptized, sang psalms, that is, fully participated in the process ...
But what I was most shocked by was what we saw inside when the people left after the service:
Of course, I have already seen photos of the interiors of the temple. But live ...And for some reason it seemed that after Lviv's churches and cathedrals nothing can surprise much. I was wrong. Maybe. And how.
In general, the whole of Ternopil was severely destroyed during the Great Patriotic War. And not so much real antiquity has survived in it. Although judging by his "pedigree", there was a lot of it here. After all, it was founded in 1540, since 1772 the city belonged to Austria, and in 1919 it became Polish. In 1939 he became a member of the USSR. In 1991 it became part of independent Ukraine.
No dissonance was caused, but on the contrary, I really liked the "Stalinist" buildings:
And we also drew attention to the rather careful attitude to the surviving antiquities, and to not so "old" buildings.
All facades are painted and whitewashed, in Lviv there are many cracks and chips in the center. In Ternopil, they somehow manage to solve this problem.
Seeing this house from afar, we even argued a bit:
In my opinion, this could only be the tax inspection. Or some kind of power institution. No. It turned out to be a medical university.
And the people of Ternopil are very successful in combining the style of "Union Union" with new-fangled trends. For example, the hotel "Ternopil". A typical Soviet facade has been preserved:
but added glass and mirrors ...And immediately came out "I'm a fashionable lady in a foreign toilet" (c): -)))
Few cities can boast of being a pond right in the middle. This is exactly the case in Ternopil. Just a few hundred meters from the city center you can see the Ternopil pond. It was built in ancient times for defense purposes. The pond is considerable: about 3 km long and 1 km wide.
The embankment and the adjacent park with various abstract figures, in my opinion, a real decoration of the city:
Right next to the pond (ie above the pond, Ukrainian) - Nadstavna church:
The church is a small outbuilding on the left. And the round tower-tadpole is the church bell tower.
The case, if you turn around, is clearly visible Tarnavsky Castle, which is difficult to perceive as a castle:
Jan Tarnawski, a Cracow castellan (something like a deputy voivode), built a castle in Ternopil with the permission of the Polish king in the 16th century. (almost 500 years ago! ). One hundred years later, the castle was almost completely burned by the Tatars and even drained from the pond. It was later restored by the Polish princes of Sobieski. The next owner of the castle, Korytovsky, built a new castle next to the Old one (unfortunately, it has not survived to this day, now in its place is the hotel "Ternopil"). And in the middle of the XIX century. the last owner of the Ternopil castle, Baron Turkul, sold it to the city. During World War II, both the Old and New Castles were destroyed. And only in 1956 the Old Castle was reconstructed, however, not adhering too much to the original.
From the city, the castle looks like this:
I didn't have enough maps while walking around the city.
But all bookstores and newsstands were closed.
Somehow I didn't think about the fact that there is an information and tourist center in the city. There was a reluctance to carry the tablet, and we left it in the car. And in my homemade book there were addresses of monuments, but there were no routes to them. That's why we managed to see something only thanks to the "sense", and something - unfortunately, no. They did not see, for example, the monument to Solomiya Krushelnytska - the first in the world, for a second. And a monument to AS Pushkin (despite the fact that he was never in Ternopil, and Ternopil itself - Bandera-Bandera, but there is a monument to the great Russian poet). And they didn't have time to go to the Art Museum (and the Brush is exhibited there). And they didn't get to the local Venetian courtyard ...
But three of the nicest Ternopil monuments were found on a small street of Cardinal Slipy: the 12th chair from the Golden Calf, Nevydymka and Vodoprovodnyk.
See the Invisible One?
; ) Experience has shown that if you put your feet in invisible shoes and take a picture, the Invisible materializes: )))
I even wanted to help the plumber, but he ignored this offer:
On the right above is a monument to the Chair.
By the way, about street names . Once again, attention was drawn to the fact that the streets in Western Ukraine are called absolutely differently. Unfortunately, in my city there is no Kniaziv Ostrozkykh Street, no Metropolitan Sheptytsky Street, no M. Hrushevsky Street, no General Shukhevych Street, no Stepan Bandera Street -: -).
A characteristic feature of Ternopil city architecture is street art:
I know that the big ones on the whole facade are called murals. And small - it is unknown how.
Maybe murals? : )
Drawings on the facades of Ternopil houses we met quite often. Literally a hundred steps away - another:
And then again:
Ternopil has a huge number of wrought iron bars, gates, balconies, etc . :
But perhaps we liked the Orthodox "green" church the most. Of course, after the Dominican church, one could expect something similar here. But what we saw exceeded all expectations.
The Church of the Nativity of Christ, it looks somehow quite medieval, thick stone walls, so massive. Built in the seventeenth century. It is considered to be one of the meadow examples of the Podolsk architectural school. Rebuilt in 1937
Imagine, she even survived the war!
The main shrine is the icon of the Ternopil Mother of God
But the most striking and dazzling is the multitude of carved wood around:
Admission to all temples is absolutely free. And you don't have to pay anything for the right to take photos of them either.
Well, on this trip it was a disappointing conclusion that I am still a kind of weak tourist. After 5-6 hours of walking, the perception is blunted, and I am no longer happy with the beauty. Only a delicious lunch can comfort.
Here for lunch, we recovered in another Ternopil attraction, visiting which is described in detail here. > About food. Old Mill Restaurant-Museum (Ternopil)
And the next day we went home. And although many of those who visited Ternopil believe that the most interesting thing in the city can be seen literally in the afternoon, I personally did not have enough of what we saw that day. And I will definitely come back here someday. And repeatedly.
But if you think it's over, then no. I promise: it will be further ...
