Lviv alleys
Spring is coming soon, and this is the best time to "shake off the old", in the sense of joining the antiquities. We did so in 2006, and during the May holidays we went to conquer Lviv. They did not think for a long time and gather, look for tours, choose a hotel, but just boarded the train in the evening, arrived in the morning, and in the evening went to explore. The walk around Lviv turned out to be intense, but not stressful, as we were not driven by guides. We had a great time wandering the streets of Lviv, saw how the city wakes up, how it lives. And got acquainted with the city without unnecessary pomp, as only the "official" attractions will say little about the city. It is better to wander by yourself, almost "at random" in the streets and alleys, regularly coming across something interesting and checking with a guide to shout: "Oh! This is it! AT! And here the "musketeers" were filmed! And just - Oh! AT! AT! ". That was great!
A huge number of photos were taken: houses, courtyards, alleys, Lviv excavations and cats (quite spoiled), and of course architectural "fame". But, do not show everything here, you need to go yourself and see. Although I will be happy to share a small part of what I saw to seduce you on the trip.
It is also difficult to talk about this strange, interesting and mysterious city. It is better to use the guide or information of Tyrnet - it is very extensive and detailed (you can also "order" a guide through the network : ).
But, if you share your impressions, for me it is a "Polish" city, so as not to argue in this regard. I lived in Poland for a while and came to Lviv, as if I had returned to the past - the recognition was 100%. Even the Polish inscriptions on the walls of houses in the center of the city (sugar, cereals, bread), apparently made during the war, were like balm for wounds. Although, perhaps, they have already been covered. Some say that Lviv is somewhat reminiscent of Peter, but I do not agree, because I also lived in St. Petersburg: very little in common. Lviv has its own architecture, its own planning and its own self-awareness. It will not be repeated and is unique! I would say that the vision of the city itself: beyond the present and in the depths of past centuries. A kind of portal to the almost medieval past. And this is the past of many peoples who lived and live in it, and who gave Lviv their monuments, made it "face". And this diversity is so densely mixed: times, religions, buildings, people, that you do not feel superfluous in this chaos. Walking you get to different times and countries, although the Polish flavor predominates. Of course, traces of Gothic Lviv are almost non-existent, but the following centuries are well represented - reflecting many European styles and trends corresponding to different historical epochs (Renaissance, Baroque, Classicism, Austrian Art Nouveau - Art Nouveau). There are houses built in the style of Ukrainian and Berlin Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Constructivism and Bauhaus. There are also buildings from the period of Stalin's neoclassicism. With all this diversity, it is not surprising that the historic center of Lviv is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It should be said that one should not be afraid of attacks of "nationalism" by the locals and therefore refuse to travel. Although Stalin never denied that, unlike Warsaw, Lviv was never a Russian city, but he did a lot so that we can now enjoy the color of Lviv : ). I do not know how in Soviet times or in the early 90's, but now everything is calm, residents are very happy for tourists, even those who do not know Ukrainian (or do not speak it : ) and not against revenues to the city budget. Everything has become quite democratic. Of course, there are enough idiots everywhere, but this is not an indicator and you should not even think about them. I assure you that you can safely order a cup of the most delicious coffee in the "World of Coffee" ("World of Coffee") and the most delicious cupcake with nuts and fruits in Russian. You can find out the way, you can make a purchase, and everything will be fine. We were fluent in Russian and with each other and with the locals - and there were no problems.
So if you are already planning something for the May holidays, I advise you to consider a trip to Lviv - in the spring it is beautiful and all in bloom. If you have a few days, then you can also visit the magnificent castles in the area, and they are worth it. But, even a day trip to this wonderful city can be very pleasant and not expensive. In words, not to mention how interesting it is to wander the spring streets of the ancient city, and suddenly, among other things, see Soviet soda machines, ancient with a beautiful forging box (which, as it turned out, laid electrical or telephone wiring), old press kiosks almost English) and many small oddities (often not clear purpose), which are not in modern cities. And how good old houses are: don't take your eyes off them - none of them are repeated! Many have images of the Mother of God or some figures of saints, many bas-reliefs and forgings. And at home in the Central Spa "something special in general" (and in some even kings and kings visited)! And each house has its own stories. The central square of the city (Market Square) originated in the middle of the 14th century, just a classic of the European city. Everything is as it should be (on the perimeter of the house with 3 windows on each floor on the facade, for more - a big tax! ) And even better - there are 4 more fountains on the corners of the Magistrate "under antiquity". I especially liked the house "Black House" (Square 4) in the Renaissance style. Also remarkable is the Kornyakt Palace or the Royal Town Hall (Market Square 6), which for some time belonged to the Sobieski kings. This house has a wonderful Italian courtyard (with an antique shop and a coffee shop).
If you are not afraid of heights, then for a few hryvnias (in 2006 it was 3 hryvnias from the nose) and after standing in a small queue, after passing through the building you can climb the Town Hall tower (Magistrate) and capture the panorama of the whole city. It cost me a few gray hairs, as I only remembered in the middle of the climb that I was afraid of heights (when it turned out that not all the steps on the stairs of the tower were nailed : ), and it was a shame to return. Overcoming myself, and screaming in horror, I still climbed to the observation deck with a "green" face in the hope of calming down, and since it was exactly 12 hours, began to beat the clock over my head (the best time not to guess : ). Words can't tell how close I was with the irreparable embarrassment (it's good that it was just a wild scream). My phobia brought a lot of joy to the surrounding tourists, who are unfamiliar with history and do not know that the ancient towers and town halls often fell apart even immediately after construction. Many knowledge - many sorrows : ). After the experience, I was especially pleased that you can freely go to Gothic cathedrals and other religious buildings and feel more harmonious emotions and thank everyone for everything! : ) It should be noted that in Lviv there is complete tolerance for different religions, which is simply admirable. There are probably not so many churches of different and sometimes little-known denominations anywhere else. Well, maybe only in Jerusalem, although I haven't been and I don't know yet.
The positive point of the trip in the style of "free flight" is that you can join a tour and listen to "Lviv stories and myths", and then go on "where the eyes look" in the Lviv nooks, absorbing the atmosphere. The diverse architecture and Lviv microclimate are fascinating, and it is not surprising how many destinies of famous people are connected with this city. It is necessary to visit here, especially since it is quite simple: spit on everything, buy tickets, take chips, water and go! And whatever travel option you choose ("savage" or tour), you will never forget a trip to Lviv. I enclose a few photos of this amazing city, which is best to visit yourself - a lot of impressions are guaranteed!
