17 instant winter
*** Instead of a preface. In the light of visa-free travel, it seems indecent to write about the familiar and familiar. But this is Lviv. It is impossible not to love him. It is impossible not to be in it. And he knows how to be grateful. And he knows how to surprise. I really hope that the appearances and passwords from the story will help those who will come to this city to get out of the usual tourist "golden ring". And see another Lviv.
By and large, I had only two global goals for this visit: the amazing Lviv entrance and the previously unknown andruty. The rest "strung" along the way. The notes are written according to the chronology of the day spent in Lviv.
Coffee overlooking the Opera. I remember the first time I came to Lviv, I was struck by the smell in the central square. Yes, at that time I didn't know that it was Rynok Square. It smelled of something imperceptibly pleasant.
Autumn, apples and something else… Now the smell of cinnamon and coffee is a permanent association with Lviv.
Apparently, to feel like a guest here, not a guest, but a Lviv resident, you should visit "Credence Cafe".
Order a latte and an apple pie (locally, a pie). Climb to the second floor. Sit in a chair at a small pill table.
Lazily flipping through the book. Sometimes look out the window at fattened pigeons soaring across the square in front of the theater. Make a hundred thousand pizza photo of a coffee cup : ).
Coffee is served here from 8:00 to 23:00. Check (large cup of latte with a piece of grated cake) - 80 UAH. (about 3 euros). Right behind the wall - "McDonald's" (also with panoramic windows overlooking the Opera House, both first and second floors).
And next to the storage room, for those who did not have time or did not want to leave things at the station.
Address: Lviv, Svobody Ave. , 37. Website: http:// www. sideboard. com. ua
Icy beauty. An annual sculpture competition of ice sculptures takes place in the square in front of the Opera House. Preservation of which largely depends, of course, on the weather. But almost until the end of January you can see the figures skillfully carved out of ice:
Backpack Monument. An extraordinary monument can be admired in the courtyard of the Faculty of Geography of Lviv University. I know that there is a similar one in Budapest. "Our" more than a meter high.
It was nice to see a turtle on it. And it was even nicer to understand its meaning .
On the wall next to the stand with a description of the history of the backpack, its evolution and components. Address: Lviv, street Doroshenko, 41. Easy to find: entering the university building from the street.
Doroshenko, to cross the hall, to answer the questions of the uncle-guard honestly: "I'm going to look at the backpack! »: )
House Crossword. At least once in our lives, probably each of us spent some time solving a crossword puzzle. Located on the wall of a residential building on the street. Sakharov, 82 , a crossword puzzle measuring 30x18 m has already been "guessed". But in the filled "cells" you still read and stare. And later, walking somewhere on the other side of Lviv, you suddenly catch yourself thinking about how firmly the assimilation or gigavolt read at home is stuck in your head.
The best Lviv park. I have never imagined that Lviv is such a green city.
And this unexpected discovery was made, oddly enough, in the winter. It was the graphic nature of the surrounding cityscape that made me think about how good it is to walk and breathe in the parks and squares of Lviv. Summer in the shade.
In autumn, kicking the spicy-smelling leaves. In the spring, substituting the face of the first May rain. In winter, in Stryj Park, watching a couple of retirees jogging.
Or a team of young athletes who are late for training and punishment, clearing the snow on the field in front of the summer theater. And young parents with wheelchairs. Or a young lady in a fur vest walking with a hairy dog in a hairy coat. And alleys, a maze of paths. Greenhouse with a dozen date palms and a banana tree (unfortunately not open on weekends) Frozen pond, where you must come in the summer to feed swans.
In summer, the park has a children's railway, the drivers and conductors of which are Lviv schoolchildren. Attention, there are no toilets in the park.
The nearest place where you can become a smart person again - cafe "Biscuit", it is about a hundred steps from the main entrance to the park on the street. Park. How to get there: from the bus station by bus № 5. What to take with you: unlimited time, camera, summer roll for feeding swans.
Mushroom soup in the palace interior. Cafe Biscuit is located in a residential building near the main entrance to Stryj Park. The exterior is nice.
But inside - just "Versailles". Azure ceiling. Samples. "Palace" furniture.
Nice service. Hearty white mushroom soup with homemade noodles.
Tea is served in a teapot. Delicious, filling and relatively inexpensive (soup and tea = 70 UAH, a little more than 2 euros). Address: Lviv, street Parkova, 6a.
Getting there: 100 steps from the entrance to Stryj Park from the street. Park, in a residential building on the left, just before reaching the monument to Ivan Trush. What to bring: good appetite, camera. Knowledge of the language is not required. Don't forget: leave a tip.
Lviv Picasso. The Picasso monument in Lviv, in contrast to the more popular monuments to L. von Sacher-Masoch, T. Shevchenko and A. Mickiewicz, is far from the usual tourist "trails". I don't know what was primary: the idea to call it a night club or a dream to immortalize a Spanish artist in "Lviv". However, today the entrance to the eponymous nightclub is decorated with a statue of a barefoot and in satin shorts Pablo, who went out for a smoke break.
And it seemed to me that the monument is depicted in full size, and if so, the Spaniard was not a grenadier.
You can compete with its growth, as well as smoke nearby at the address: Lviv, st. Zelena, 88. How to get there: asking the locals about the road, it is better to say at once that you are looking for a nightclub "Picasso". For some reason, everyone knows him, even retired grandmothers. But the monument - no : ).
Historical reconstruction on the day of remembrance of the Heroes of Kruty. Here you are walking through the center of Lviv, and suddenly you hear the sound of gunshots. The head is involuntarily pressed into the shoulders, and a whirlwind of thoughts: "Assault. To the deputy. Or to measure. God, what to do? Where to run? ”. But since all other passers-by go about their business calmly, no one (except you, of course) panics, you realize that this is something else. Turning the "heads of cobs" you finally notice the crowd near the park and strangely dressed armed men:
Of course, you come closer.
In the crowd of similarly interesting "stop" conversations, you understand that in this way Lviv today pays tribute to Kruty's heroes. I knew, of course, that such a holiday exists, but here's the detail, to my shame, unfortunately ...For those who, like me, was off topic: . Ukrainian, as it should be, is a bit more complicated: % 25D0.259A% 25D1.2580% 25D1.2583% 25D1.2582% 25D0.25B0.25D0.25BC% 25D0.25B8 "> Battle of Kruty
Venue: Lviv, Na Valakh Square, vul. Vinnichenko
"Secret" "Houses under the Owls". We should have met earlier with the house where the most amazing Lviv entrance is located. Definitely. After all, it houses the cult Lviv pub "Black Cat". And I love beer. And only because of a misunderstanding was not in it before or now.
Because this time she came to look at the entrance. "House under the owls" was found easily.
Amused mascaron with a mustache that came off.
The door of the front door I needed was closed. Code lock. She hid. I'm waiting. I mutter insistently about "Sim-salabim", I pull open the door, which does not open anyway, despite the spell. Oh, I see, there are two such Lviv women, obviously from the bazaar, because they have bags and a basin in their hands. I understand that women are from here. I ask you to miss the entrance. Laughing Enter. I am also invited to enter. Turn on the lights on the site. And I'm stunned by the pillar. Because yeah, I've seen these walls in pictures on the internet many times. But believe me, when you enter the entrance, you will 100% exclaim "Oh, don't worry! ”.
I can't imagine how people live here and walk past these walls to the bakery every day:
Now I'm thinking of making a separate tour of such secret Lviv entrances. I know "yavok" from a good dozen))). Address of this entrance: Lviv, street Heroes of the Maidan, 6.
I have already written about "X & X Champagne" and about the "three Xs" served in it
Address: Lviv, street Lesya Ukrainka, 29. Website: http:// champagneria. lviv. ua
And, as they say "On horseback": something about Lviv delicacies. Somehow I have never learned that along with khinkali (or khinkali? : ) hi-hi) and "Svitochem" in Lviv, you should try (and bring home as a souvenir) "Andruta".
This is a local cake, a bit like a waffle cake, prepared by all Soviet mothers. Only "Andruty" seemed a bit dry to me, for an amateur. I managed to buy this Lviv delicacy in only one store on the street.
Copernicus, 9 (three steps to the right of Liberty Avenue). Lviv's Zacher was also sold here. Here he is yeah, he was horror. I was sorry that I brought only 2 "pieces".
Points of sale: Pid Kumpel stores (2b Chornovola Street, 93 Chornovola Street, 37 Patona Street) and U Mykola store (352 Stryjska Street)
Well, that's all. Farewell "circle" of favorite streets:
froze for a moment near the Roshen window:
And ...a suitcase, a platform, a train station ...
and the train quietly left Berdychiv: )
* all prices are as of the end of January 2017
