The story of the conquest of Hoverla, Yaremche and Guks
Hello, dear friends, like-minded people and travelers!
I’ll make a reservation that the described adventure has become a kind of plagiarism for the journey of fellow countrywoman Polina in the Carpathians. Travel Story Competition 2015 I read her story about climbing Hoverla, and immediately the toggle switch “I WANT” jumped in my head.
We planned to climb for the Trinity holidays because of 1 “extra” day off (although there are no extra days off). We paid for the tour, bought train tickets and began to wait. Unfortunately, there is no direct train from Sumy to Ivano-Frankivsk, I had to go through Kyiv with transfers.
Early in the morning at 5-45 we arrived in Ivano-Frankivsk. At the appointed time at the station, we were met by an experienced guide Vasil, put in a minibus and took the group to Yaremche. Incredible Carpathian landscapes opened up along the way. I was immediately struck by nature, rich houses and a huge number of churches and chapels.
In Yaremche, we settled in the Sofia Forest Club hotel, we took a room on the 4th floor with a view. There was a good impression about the hotel: I liked the view, the staff and the kitchen, I didn’t like the lack of a wardrobe and a refrigerator (or a mini-bar) in the rooms. Everything was enough for a two day stay. The hotel is located a little off the road at the foot of the mountain, not far from the souvenir market and the Probiy waterfall.
After settling in, we were heartily fed with "buckwheat with sausages", huge portions had to be eaten by force, vaguely guessing that oh, how much strength would be needed. We, a group of 14 people, were put into a minibus and taken to the “dream come true”. On the way, the guide Vasil entertainingly talked about Yaremche, Mykulychyn, Tatariv, Vorokhta. Unbelievable Carpathian landscapes opened up: neat mini-hotels, gardens from a log house, fields, meadows, a picturesque fast Prut, mountains Khomyak, Sinyak, etc. It is difficult to describe, you need to see for yourself.
GOVERLA
And then SHE appeared - the highest point of Ukraine, Mount Hoverla. The summit went straight into the sky, and there was still snow on the neighboring slopes. At the picturesque foothills of Hoverla, business is in full swing: selling souvenirs, things, renting ski poles (tip: take poles, it’s a little easier to climb with them), there is a non-picturesque bathroom (tip: use the bathroom, there are no amenities at the top and on the way to it). I bought a bandana with the flag of Ukraine, because. a hat in sunny weather is a must.
Our group of 14 people with a guide Vasil began to climb a difficult route. The foot of the mountain is covered with dense forest, there is a mountain stream. High humidity, tree roots form high steps, walking is not easy. The birds sing, I envy them, they don’t climb the mountain))) We pass the forest, our legs already hurt from walking on half-twine, it’s hard to breathe, and this is only the beginning of the journey. A clearing opens, overgrown with juniper and wild raspberries, and the landscape is already stunning.
It was even more difficult to go further: part of the path was densely littered with wet stones of various sizes, part of the road passed almost vertically. It was scary to look down. Each section of the path between short halts had to be persuaded to go further, but there was no thought of giving up. A waterfall is visible, the river originates here. Rod. We stop for a while to admire and listen.
The whole climb I thought: why am I doing this? It seems to me that each person on this rise has his own motivation. For me, the main thing was to overcome myself, self-doubt, physical fatigue, my fear of heights, it was also a thirst for new experiences, a patriotic impulse (to see my homeland from its highest point).
The summit is already very close, I am climbing with the last of my strength... I am at the top! Emotions from conquering this height are very difficult to describe... The first is delight, as if you are not conquering the peak, but changing something in your soul. The view comes off incomparable: the endless majestic Carpathians, clouds and rain over the territory of Hungary are very close. People have tired, but such happy faces! And only at the very top you understand - it was worth it.
On the advice of a colleague experienced in the mountains (Sasha, thank you), we took a bottle of champagne and sandwiches with us. The usual "Odessa Brut" at the top of Hoverla seemed to be the most delicious champagne ever drunk. We sat down on a stone heated by the sun, we drink, eat and “absorb” the beauty of the Carpathian landscapes. I don’t know how much we rested, but we need to go down. The descent is also not quite easy physically, completely different muscles hurt than during the ascent, but mentally it is much easier.
Speaking of the weather, to say we were lucky is an understatement. The whole of June was wildly rainy, and in the Carpathians it was also cold. On the day of the ascent to the top, the weather was warm, but not hot, the gentle sun shone. There was almost no wind, only a little before the very top. 3 times I tried to rain, but 3 times I changed my mind, it just rained a little, and again the sun. It feels like nature took pity on us travelers. Thank you!
Let's continue. . . At the foot of the river we drink water directly from a mountain river, it is very tasty (by the way, there were no consequences for the body). At the market we take mulled wine (it went well), drink and return to the hotel.
Our route passes through the largest, very old and very beautiful village of Ukraine, Mykulychyn, which arose during the time of the Galician principality. One of the attractions is a mini-brewery (they produce live beer "Hutsulske" of several types, use Carpathian spring water and honey from their own apiary). We make a stop, in the company store there is an impressive line, with which the local smart 2 ladies quickly cope. We take 4 liters and a glass of 0.5 liters for tasting. Right in the shop for a snack, several varieties of cheese are offered. We stop at the goat. Tasting: incomparable beer, incomparable cheese and an incomparable combination of the first with the second. Who will be in those parts, try it, you will not regret it.
We returned to the hotel very tired, but satisfied. Went to the room to clean up for dinner. Room on the 4th floor, no elevator. How hard it is to get up after Hoverla! For dinner, we try a plate of hearty chinakhi (stewed potatoes, chicken, mushrooms, beans). Tasty and quickly restores strength.
Surprisingly enough strength for a short walk around the neighborhood. We admire the views, gardens, rivers, we go to the Probiy waterfall. Back at the hotel, we sleep "without hind legs. " Gooks are waiting for us in the morning.
GOOKIES (WATERFALLS)
In the morning, after a hearty breakfast, most of the group goes on an optional excursion (for an additional fee) to Zhenetsky Huk. Cheerful driver Volodya rushes us to Mykulychyn, telling interesting stories and Hutsul tales along the way. For example, about the fact that earlier in this area all the waterfalls were called gooks (from the word "guchniy" - noisy), then other names were added to them.
The first Guk is Zhenetsky. Located on the river Zhenets not far from Mykulychyn at an altitude of 900 m. We are looking at the unfinished dacha of Yushchenko V. A. At the entrance to Guk we are met by a typical souvenir market, but we are primarily interested in the waterfall itself. Guk is very beautiful, the water falls freely from a height of about 15 m. The vegetation around is incomparable, all shades of green, the birds sing crazy. ))) My husband wanted to go down the cable car, the sensations are sharp, I didn’t risk it, because. It was the Trinity, and on a holy holiday you can’t use foul language. )))) We walked around, bought souvenirs and went to the hotel. On the way, Volodya also showed us the Molochny cascade hook, made a stop near the suspension bridge across the river. Rod. We set off, not far from the hotel we were dropped off near the Probiy hook.
Guk Probiy is located on the way to the Yaremche Fair. Probiy is the most full-flowing cascading waterfall in the Ukrainian Carpathians, the current is insane, the noise is very strong, the landscape is magnificent. They say that earlier the height reached up to 25 m, then the hook was blown up, because. he prevented the timber from being rafted down the river. Now the gook resembles a very steep rapid of a river. The waterfall can be viewed from all sides, incl. from above on the footbridge.
Right next to the waterfall is the YAREMCHE SOUVENIR MARKET. What is not there! The entire folk craft of the Carpathians, from embroidered shirts and bags, ending with cheeses, honey and alcoholic tinctures and liqueurs. It's just eyes wide open. Too bad we didn't bring a money-printing machine with us. People are also very colorful, friendly, open and sociable. Right above the waterfall there are cafes and a restaurant where you can drink cold draft beer and taste Hutsul cuisine while admiring the gook.
I liked everything very much, gorgeous nature and very hospitable and colorful people. Didn't want to leave. Let's try to continue our weekend tours in Ukraine.
Have a good rest, there will be questions, write, I will answer!
