By bus to Yaremche
Since the beginning of the year, I really, really wanted to go somewhere, the case when everything painfully “screamed” - pack your bags! what are you waiting for? Life passes by... Maybe because such a situation is around, but in the end a dream came true, which was “for later” - to see the Carpathians and... live! Everything happened very spontaneously and not planned, and the money did not disappear in the next bank, but went on a trip, impressions and spiritual joy. Now we are constantly laughing remembering how we spent a week in Yaremche: a mixture of films “three in a boat, not counting the dog” and “romance with a stone” with Hutsul specifics. Whoever hasn’t watched TV masterpieces, look to fully imagine what to expect from a vacation in good company, but knowing that circumstances will still be, and it’s better to endure them with a smile than change them.
Since the trip was not planned in advance, it turned out that the railway in July would not please us with anything - one reserved seat. And there are four of us. And we are ready to go tomorrow! Can we be stopped? St. Tyrnet suggested - there is a bus: Kyiv-Yaremcha daily at 19-45! Let's call the bus station of the capital. A phlegmatic rural aunt with helpfulness and the notions of a “soviet saleswoman” exhausted her whole soul: you are worried... that there are places... that come and buy tickets, they are... but we are not local!... well then, don’t come....That's how the problem is settled - down the drain on the phone. But, nothing could stop us - we had already agreed and advanced housing (also found thanks to Tyrnet and very successfully). We are waiting for the Carpathians! After talking with her, we could not trust the aunt from the bus station in Kyiv (we then came up to look at her and got a lot of pleasure, having caught the next “negotiations” when she finished another passenger). The service is heavily indebted. In short, we bought tickets for the day in our regional center, at our bus station, where we were also “made” by withdrawing 30 UAH for booking. and another 4 UAH. for something like “buying in advance” (is it different? ). As a result, we apparently were the only "not hares" in this bus. In principle, it is possible to buy tickets before leaving at the bus station in Kyiv. But who does it? All "experienced" pay the driver. These two wuiks that brought us from Kyiv are a special story - a real Cartagena. The language in which they communicated is a unique mixture of different ones + some kind of “Odessa” humor. “Why are you running around the bus? You would have already run on foot. ” they picked up and dropped off “hares”, took away and gave back “parcels”. . . life was seething under the “ethnic tunes” of their radio tape recorders, from which they simply blew the roof off. Advice - take headphones, otherwise, from the all-night haze-trymets, it may become a little bad. We decided that even the chanson was better. And take a towel to cover yourself from the light at the next parking lot with “hares and packers”. A plaid is also possible - it’s more comfortable to take a nap. In general, if there was no this “business”, the bus could have arrived earlier....But who benefits from this? Passengers only. . . who cares?
Roads after the Kiev region (on which we were taken), closer to Europe - horror: a pit on a pit, narrow. The most filthy toilet at the bus station in Ternopil. The actual one is not. We never found him in the dark... and left our “trace” in their history wherever we could: know ours! Although we should think - where are we climbing with such a service? Like Joanna Chmielewska (a Polish writer I respect), I believe that a country or an institution can be judged by the state of a bathroom - unmistakably. So Ternopil spoiled the impression about himself. Kolomyia is very picturesque (Polish influence is unambiguous), but when you are thrown out there with your suitcases and they say that the bus has broken down... and we don’t go further... somehow it becomes not up to the surroundings and sights... In general, our wuiks drove We agreed with a local minibus that they would take us to Yaremche for free, while we ourselves went about our business on a “broken” bus. And again we were driving “in Cartagena style” - we were seated, but the locals with bales and belongings hung over us standing just like “in a romance with a stone”... The chanson was already pleasing....It’s good that it was raining and at least we didn’t we got fried in a minibus, but with deziks it wasn’t very good there: it was stuffy. We already imagined all sorts of horrors, but Yaremche pleasantly pleased us - a beautiful town in a valley among the mountains. People in the “off season” are very pleasant, there are ATMs and a lot of places to “eat” and buy “what you need”. The town actually consists of one long Svoboda street, the branches are not significant. In parallel, there is a local railway. On the other hand, a river murmurs in parallel (where it crosses the city - a bridge and then the “Proboy” waterfall). There are many bridges and footbridges. . . All in beautiful houses and hotels. And the mountains around are a fairy tale: the landscape changes all the time and never gets boring! For the sake of this, it was worth looking for your cartagena! We planted a camera battery in the first 2 days - we wanted to shoot everything: very beautiful... very! How easy it is to breathe! And I want to live!
Upon arrival early in the morning, we wandered around the city and ate - it was necessary to relieve the stress of moving. Ask the locals what is better. Advice - do not ask anything from grandmothers, especially near cemeteries (which are usually next to churches, of which there are sooo many). No need. We were advised "Pirozhkov hut". The interior is, of course, local - ethnic “with glechiki and watermelons” and very pretty. But the pies are not very good - the fillings are not enough. The difference between “fine” and “savory” pie: beautiful and tasty are not the same thing. The rest of the borschiki, soups and banoches are fine. It should be noted that the prices are approximately the same everywhere, in those places that we visited. But we decided on the rating that we liked: 1 - Tourist "(boschi and potato pancakes super), in the middle of the city, good service, 2 -" Yakov's "(chinahi is the best in the city), but further and more expensive, 3 - teraska" Zatishok” (fried cheese, coffee and waitresses are excellent). ??? , 4- over the “Probiy” waterfall without a name (or Summer) something local fast food: banosh, boschi, salads (I liked cottage cheese) and cheap. By the way, chinakhi is a very curious dish (everything is most delicious in a pot), but Georgian, although in the Carpathian Mountains it is very good and satisfying! Banosh (corn porridge) and goulash are similar: only banosh is cooked in oil, and goulash is cooked in water. Delicious with cheese too. And with cracklings....And everywhere - mushrooms!
This is the best mushroom place in the world! Huge porcini mushrooms! Buying them in any form is not a problem: next to the railway station there is a grocery market: vegetables, fruits, honey (and honey products), and mushrooms! Three porcini mushrooms - more than a kg! 30 UAH (traded in the closing area of the bazaar). Three-liter can of dry mushrooms - about 100 UAH. (+ or - bargain). We prepared dishes from local products in the hotel (with the obligatory addition of porcini mushrooms). They also brought dry mushrooms home - yummy! It was with difficulty that we bought the beans - they have it bib (bean), they confused us so much in their dialect that we almost took the beans from the peasant (sorry, bibs), for which he had already paid. He then chased us around the market and shamed us with shouts - well, take it, take it... bibs... since you need them more than I...
What not to do on the first day - do not agree to excursions: there are a lot of offers (they will run after you right on the street). And do not buy souvenirs - just get your bearings at the beginning. Souvenir market (part one) to the bridge over the river (next to cafes, including “Yakov’s”), and then go over the bridge over the railway track and the second part of the market and an amusement park begin. Above the river where this waterfall is “Breakdown” is a small bridge where everyone is photographed. Of course, this is not Niagara, but picturesque. You can also go down to the water: the water boils, rocks, pines. Crowds of tourists, souvenir sellers and "a little bit pregnant" brides. Noise, hubbub, tightness. . . Associations with Latin America (as it is shown in the movies) are fun, but in the Hutsul style. There is also the famous restaurant "Hutsulshchyna". What can I say. . . empty, dark, dusty. . . dull. And the most expensive toilet - 5 UAH. (outdid the capital). Fu. . . Souvenirs: T-shirts with prints under the “vyshyvanka” - up to 200 UAH. 1300 UAH worth hand embroidery. We decided that buying socks with an ethnic print for 15 UAH. - cheaper. A very curious souvenir shop “fino e! ” (ethnoshop) opposite the restaurant "Tourist" (central part of the city) - there are really interesting things and hostesses too: they will talk, offer a souvenir in your "price zone". There is also an antique corner. We bought magnets with an old Hutsulka. We were not just sold, but the story was told. This elderly lady lived to a ripe old age, while having fun, drinking and smoking! She knew all the customs and did not miss a single event. Here you have “Vitanya from Yaremche” - the best souvenir that can be: an attitude to life! The portrait of a Hutsul girl on a magnet reminds us every day: live life to the fullest! There are many other interesting things in this store. For example, paintings by local primitivists (such as “Biker-Hutsul with a girl in sunflowers”), postcards from the cycle “Jozhiki” - the Carpathian artist came up with a whole cycle of unusual paintings with funny stories in the local language (yes, yes... there is a local dialect, and very cool, only 50% is understandable... Well, and a lot more. There is a site to which I do not make a link: come and find for yourself: it is better to see than to hear!
Nature is our everything. We were constantly walking. At the entrance to Yaremche there is a road to the village of Dora - go towards Dora through the railway, and then to the mountains along the road... higher and higher... Rivers and streams, pine trees, clouds in your hair, flower wreaths “from the Red Book ”, forest berries, peacocks, toads and butterflies of huge sizes, like mushrooms,... more pines, chapels, churches... houses... Everything is beautiful, and you can go to the mountains - as long as you have enough health! By the way, without a road you can’t turn anywhere - vertical stone walls in pines. Only on trails and roads. In Dora there are shops - you can eat. At the same time, nature is not at all spoiled by civilization - clean, quiet, picturesque. We had lunch in nature, reached the monastery (where the pioneer camp is). And in a chapel they asked the Mother of God to send us peace, left her a collected bouquet.
It is also interesting to walk in the center of Yaremche. There is “Bear Mountain”, a picturesque park plus a zoo with local fauna. You can sit near the lake, look at the swans, and you have to pay for the zoo....but they let 4 of us go cheaper (bargain and smile). And again - around the mountains and beautiful houses, flower beds. Nearby there is like a waterfall “maiden's tears”, but we did not go and the locals said that it was right, something was coming out of the tube. If “Probiy” didn’t impress us very much (at least we didn’t spend money on an excursion), then there is something more nondescript. Streams in the mountains will be better.
Hiking across the river to the mountains that are visible from the hotel window was also pleasant: a gentler slope, houses, collected thyme for tea, took pictures against the background of stacks of hay... Hanging bridges across the river... no more than 3 (written after transition)... and we are 4-ro! Scary - again, like in a movie: this is not a bridge, but a work of ancient Indian architecture. We got hungry and did not reach the top, went down, ended up in the city center and had a delicious lunch with national dishes. Very comfortably!
I also have to say compliments to our hotel “Hutsulska Khata” - it is at the entrance to Yaremche, closer to Dora. Not the center, and it’s decent to walk on foot, but we are very pleased with this - not a burdensome workout, shaking office fat is useful. Well, the locals gave free rides more than once. . . The hotel “Hutsulska Khata” is a very picturesque place, on a steep bank of the river. The hotel also has a descent to the water, but as it turned out, if you move a little along the road, there is a natural rocky beach near the river (bypass the religious spore and go down)... We sunbathed perfectly by the water in solitude. We saw that people were swimming on the opposite side, where the places are deeper. But, the fry attacked our legs so much that we did not dare to swim - they would suddenly devour them... They say you can sign up for fishing... There is fish! I’ll write about the hotel separately, but I’ll say for sure - I really liked it, like the owners, like the atmosphere, like prices and service! In general, despite the fact that we did not find time for trips and excursions to the castles, we had enough walks in beautiful places around Yaremche.
The weather was constantly changing: sun - rain. I think this is normal in the mountains, you should not worry. But, keep in mind - the most fashionable clothes in Yaremche this summer: raincoats. Purple. Or blue. Be sure to take them with you (umbrellas are better and take up little space in luggage). What else is worth taking in luggage: sneakers, flip flops, T-shirts, shorts, jeans, warm jackets (blouses) or windbreakers (for the evening). Caps and hats are also welcome (great tan in the mountains). Evening dresses and “hairpins”, I think, will not be needed. It is convenient with a small backpack or shoulder bag: everything is with you, and your hands are free. Sunglasses are also needed. And swimwear - a lot of saunas (including in hotels). The rest can be bought - there are plenty of shops and pharmacies (there are more in the center).
We returned, again (and of course) by bus. Daily at 18-00 from Yaremche. Bus station in the center of Yaremche (but not in the same place as the railway station). The staff is good and adequate. Toilet 2 UAH. and decent. We were too lazy to buy tickets on the same day as we arrived, we thought we would have to book and overpay (and it’s better to eat the money deliciously), but it turned out not to be necessary - there are no moronic margins. We bought tickets a couple of days before departure, and they did the right thing, the seats were running out. "Hares" that paid the driver now drove standing up to Kyiv. We didn’t have time to drive far, as it turned out that the roads were blocked - the locals were rioting: they didn’t want to let their children go to the army. We chanted, yelled that we were not to blame, that the bus was full of children who had nothing to do with the authorities and did not make decisions, but they did not let us through. The natives have their own logic, and it cannot be changed. Everyone was annoyed except for those who decide. The local cunning woman who was traveling with us said that she knew how to bypass the barricade of roads - near her house. Traveled for over 2 hours. In her village, she left us and we were left in the dark, not knowing where to go. Local drivers helped, so we managed to escape. I don’t know how those people who rode the trains, but we left. I try not to remember how the bus drove at night onto a terrible bridge from a smashed road “for one car” at a right angle. Terrible cramps, but we got there... and in the capital there was news - a bus station like “mined”... but we didn’t care anymore - because the result is more important, not the process! We had a bite to eat in a nearby “poppy”, we didn’t give a damn about the “circumstances”, and went further home... to remember a spontaneous vacation... That's how we visited the Kartpathians no matter what! And despite some extreme “national holiday” we liked it!
