In the footsteps of Taras Bulba
03/27/2009 – 04/3/2009
Donetsk - Vinnitsa - Kamenetz - Podolsky - Chernivtsi - Khotyn - Vinnitsa - Donetsk
I decided to write a report - a review of my trip to Kamenetz - Podolsky with a visit to Khotyn and Chernivtsi.
at about 13:00 we boarded the Donetsk-Lviv train to Vinnitsa station.
OK. 5-30 we were in Vinnitsa. The first minibus to Kamenetz left only at 7-00, so it was time to clean up. Fortunately, there was practically no one at the bus station. The minibus cost 52 UAH.
7-00. Ate have won back their rightful places (for a minute - they bought tickets the very first)! Local residents with bags, jars, flasks simply "touched"! Some strange smell from people was immediately noticed... I'm in shock. Someone still not aware that there is a shower and deodorants ?? ? I’m already silent about perfumery… An hour later, this smell became simply unbearable… Fortunately, after 2 hours there was a long stop and we were able to take a walk and get some fresh air! And, thank God, almost all the passengers got out!
Ok. 11-00 we were already at the bus station in Kamenets. At first there was shock. It's like I stepped back 10 years! We took a taxi (by the way, a taxi in the city costs 10 UAH, no matter how much you have to go). We arrived at the apartment. We were in for a surprise. It turned out to be a rebuilt communal apartment or something. Instead of an apartment, there was just a tiny room with TV, DVD, a bed and a nightstand, a table and an armchair. Nothing special, but it was not disgusting to touch. Pleased with the amenities. Although tiny, but modern shower with a boiler! I personally could not get enough of this fact (I hate bad plumbing - I disdain)! In general, despite the lack of a kitchen, I was satisfied with the housing. Excellent accommodation - L. Ukrainka street, several cafes nearby (with ridiculous prices and delicious cuisine), the Old Town, the central park. I give the coordinates of the man, the cat. rented an apartment - a room.
805.50 8.194, Edward. Price - 100 UAH / day. The lowest possible. I repeat, despite the nuances, I recommend it in terms of price - quality - location! We paid for 5 nights. Although the tickets were purchased for 7 nights. In the end, this turned out to be a very good move. But more on that later.
We went on a tour of the New City with an amateur guide found earlier. A small digression. Digging through the sites, reading the advice of experienced people who said that you just need to take a local aborigine, I did just that. In addition, the price pleased. For 2 days 180 or 200 UAH, and other guides for 4 hours in the Old Town took 180 UAH. For 2 people greedy. But in vain.
We immediately noticed that literally after 2 minutes, the shoes are covered with a thick layer of dust! In general, I hoped to get into an ecologically clean city, breathe oxygen....Where there! I have cleaner air in Donetsk! And there is no such dust!
To begin with, we decided to explore the New City:
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral,
Kamyanets-Podilskyi National Pedagogical University
unsupported bridge "Running doe".
This is something that is really worth paying attention to. It is also worth just walking around and looking at the houses. There are interesting moments. For example, a house has 2 doors on each side. One leads to the first floors, and the second immediately to the second. Those. hosts etc. don't wash your eyes! Also, there are still extensions - verandas where they used to drink tea... It's interesting to look at all this. But! You don't have to set aside a whole day for this! 3 hours of leisurely walking is enough.
In the end, I decided to ask if it is possible to consider a 3-hour excursion as a full day and pay so much for it... ? Our "guide" immediately understood everything and said, let's pay 80 UAH for both days. This is where they stopped.
OK. At 11:00 we went on a tour of the Old City.
It will be very good in the long run. Construction is currently underway, which prevents a full inspection.
Of the most beautiful, memorable sights, I can highlight:
TRINITAR (Trinity) CHURCH.
Church of St. Nicholas (the appearance leaves much to be desired. But this Church has an interesting history…
City Hall (there are functioning museums inside, but we decided not to go there).
Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul. This is something! He is so. . . I really liked the tombstone of Laura Pshezdetskaya by Viktor Brodzkiy.
Monastery of the Trinitarian Order.
It's good that I bought a guide the day before. I learned more from him than from our guide. Although he tried. But, having accidentally heard a guide-historian, I realized how wrong I was in my choice!
We decided to dedicate this day to Kam Pod. Fortresses.
Outside, the scenery is beautiful. Great photos came out! There is a reconstruction going on inside, and the builders brazenly tried to rip off money from us - "charitable donations"! Moments like this just piss me off. I just ignore that. They thought I was a foreigner. Well, that's weird!
The entrance to the Fortress costs approx. 10 UAH
Inside the fortress, you can shoot with a bow and crossbow. And in front of the Castle on weekends you can ride horses. By the way, the city has one of the cheapest equestrian schools! Too bad I didn't make it! Lesson only 50 UAH! Ride to the Castle and back - only 10 UAH.
I recommend not to be lazy and go down the huge stairs down to the Exaltation of the Cross Church. There are few such wooden churches left in Ukraine. Too bad it was closed. Ah, maybe. It doesn’t work at all... Of course, I wanted to look inside...
Also on this day we changed tickets for 2 days earlier. In principle, the city is boring and there is nothing to do there for so long.
Chernivtsi.
The minibus costs 25 UAH one way. Time - approx. 3 hours of travel
Chernivtsi became the winner in the competition - the best city to live in Ukraine!
For centuries, living nearby, different peoples (Ukrainians, Romanians, Austrians, Armenians) - over the centuries - forged the unique style of the city.
Unfortunately, we did not have time to agree on a sightseeing tour, but we took a guide around the University. By the way, the guide is a girl (watchman) in the church on the territory of the University. The tour costs 40 UAH per group. There is a bookstore in the main building, they sell maps, guidebooks (unfortunately, not in Russian/Ukrainian), magnets.
I liked the city, despite the rain and cloudy weather. The architecture is amazing, the streets are original. Even though I wouldn't want to live there. =)
The minibus costs 7 UAH. Just get on the bus and pay the driver. It is best to get up at the Khotyn bus station and take a taxi (10 UAH) to the Castle. We decided to take a walk. Lost. I approached the only passer-by who was carrying a child's backpack to ask for directions. And it turned out to be an American! Well, nothing, we have not seen such a thing! I learned everything in English. But the American misunderstood a little and sent us to the Khotyn bus station (we found out at the end of the journey)! Nothing. Still, we found this castle. Girlfriend was capricious and did not want to take a guide. And I wanted.
Entrance - up to 10 UAH. Near the entrance there is a large parking lot, many souvenir shops and kiosks selling light snacks and water.
Hotin is smaller than Kam-Pod. Fortresses. There is also reconstruction going on. Again, beautiful pictures of the Castle! Without a guide, there was nothing to see for a long time!
Ok. 12.00 release of the apartment and minibus to Vinnitsa.
Boarding the train at night, so we decided to go to the Pirogov estate. I really wanted to go there! Unfortunately, we didn't make it! They work until 17-00! I had to wander around the city. But I changed my mind about Vinnitsa. The last time I was here was over 10 years ago. I remember the city as still quite rural. Now it is quite a decent city with large shopping centers, cinemas, etc.
Now, about the trip. My advice.
I recommend the apartment.
Guide - look for a historian. There are many phones on the internet.
For Kamenets - 2 days is enough. Unless you decide to visit a horse farm, then add 1 more day.
Day 1 - Chernivtsi.
1 day (even half a day) - Khotyn.
Leave early to catch Pirogov's estate in Vinnitsa!
Nutrition. On Edward's advice, we ate at the nearest pizzeria "Pan Pizza". By the way, they are in Chernivtsi too! Highly recommend. A small dining room (you can’t name a cafe), but everything is super cheap and quite tasty! Perfect for breakfast/lunch. For 20 UAH you can eat! In the evening we went somewhere else.
Have a good rest!
