Hakuna Matata. Part 11. No baobabs. Nungwi and Chuini

09 July 2021 Travel time: with 28 February 2021 on 12 March 2021
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Continuation. Start here >>>

10 days. 9th of March.

In the morning I run to meet the dawn. But today he is pale, as befits the dawn)

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

That was the end of our stay in the magnificent Miramonte. My husband got worse, from breakfast until the time of check-out he lies in the room. At 11 o'clock we leave the room.

We know that check-in is at 2 pm, we have three hours during which my husband has nowhere to lie down. You can stop, try to unfold the seats and take a nap in the car, but it's better to do it on the territory of the hotel. Still, we are in Africa (a worm of distrust for the locals).

But the husband says he feels better and wants to eat.

Breakfasts no longer satisfy us)

I propose to go to Nungwi (nothing that we are to the south, but Nungwi is in the north). In Nungwi you can eat deliciously, swim beautifully and, if you're lucky, see the baobabs in the village of Kidoti. I really want to see the baobabs, because last time we were so tired that we couldn't look for them anymore.


Let's turn north. We are silent for a while. Now Kidoti is close.

And then my husband says to me:

- I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you, but I lost my taste and smell.

How do you feel?

- Well, better. And you?

I'm fine.

- But you were shivering yesterday.

- Maybe overheated in the sun. Now everything is fine.

The mood is gone the diagnosis shines in the mind in red letters, but we continue to drive to Nungwi. We drive past the village, I timidly ask to turn, the husband waves it off. Not for the baobabs.

We arrive at the cafe, it's still early, there are no people, we place an order - my husband orders for himself, then I order for myself. We wait. We watch how the area is watered from dust.

An hour passes. We're already a little tired. I don't know why they take so long. Maybe they take orders, and the cook still milks the cow at home.

And now they carry the order... only to me. We ask when the second part will be, the waitress makes square eyes.

- You ordered this.

- I am this, and he is another. What, you didn't write it down?

- We'll cook everything now!

And then the husband imagined how he was sitting in this dusty square for another hour waiting for the order, and yelling:

No! No need! We'll eat this together.

My husband is basically the calmest person in the world. But here everything somehow fell at the same time, you understand?

He bites, criticizes the food, spoils my mood. The two of us poked around in my dish... and left without salty slurping.

I ask my husband to go swimming, but he doesn't want to. "There are people around, I'm sick, let's get out of here" But we've already arrived, here it is, the sea, two steps away. Well, how can you pick up and leave?

I say:

- There, on the beach, there is a cafe with burgers, but you want to eat, but for now I will swim.

We approached the cafe, looked into it, there were few people, the tables were sparse, the cafe was outdoors.

- Okay, just not for long.

- I'm in a moment!


I trot towards the water, take off my shorts and plop into the water! There are some boats around, some people, the sun spurts into the top of the head through the panama hat, blinds through the glasses into the eyes.

The day is in full swing! There are practically no shadows anywhere. And where it is, merchants lurk.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

The tide is coming. Lots of water!

But I have to go. I promised to take a quick swim.

I come to the cafe. The husband sits, sad, waiting for the order.

- Well, I still swim, huh?

I run back, the beach line is wide, I take off my wet shorts and again - splash into the water. So, with all my might, I have never swum)

I'm running back. The husband is sitting, sad as before, the burger has not yet been brought! In an almost empty room! Burger! It's a matter of five minutes. And it's been forty minutes. This is where it starts to bug me.

- Well, ask the waiter. How can a BURGER take so long to cook!

My husband was already on edge, and then I decided to teach him, and he explodes on a passing waiter:

I've been waiting for my burger for an hour now! This is fine?

The waiter goes to the kitchen, takes a burger, brings it to us and starts arguing about whether an hour has passed or not a whole hour) Brings a piece of paper with an order, points to the clock, in general, swears with us. I was immediately taken aback. Well, you brought the burger in 40 minutes, not in an hour, well, you even showed us a piece of paper that the hour had not yet passed, but somehow be quieter, you're at work.

And it's getting louder and louder. Already my husband’s lid on the kettle jumps, and he, let me remind you, is the calmest person in the world) I see that the fight is just around the corner

- OK! OK! - I get involved in their dialogue - NOT 1 hour, so be it, ok, let's all calm down.

The waiter closes his mouth in mid-sentence and leaves.

My husband is eating, I'm just sitting. The neighbor asks if the burger is tasty. The husband nods. How should he know? He has no taste or smell.

When we were driving back, I didn’t even stutter about baobabs.


We stopped several times to buy mangoes, but they were getting more and more expensive. And they don't trade! It was a period when the locals forgot how to bargain because of the huge flow of tourists.

Won't buy this one, will buy the next one.

How I like the roads in Zanzibar)

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Apparently, I had low expectations for the roads. Everyone wrote that the roads are horror-horror, there are practically none, and those that exist are completely boring, ugly. So, the quality of the roads, of course, leaves much to be desired. Especially after Thailand. But if you drive in Ukraine, then the quality of our roads is a hundred times worse. Under my window, in the capital of our Motherland, the asphalt is patched and patched, just like some third-rate road in Zanzibar. And if you go to the Butsky Canyon, then in the Zhashkov area you will definitely miss the Zanzibar roads)

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Of course, I remember how we punctured a wheel on a particularly sharp pit, but pits there are much rarer than here. Our road specialists should be ashamed, we cannot even compete with Africa.

Zanzibar has heavy primers, as I already wrote about, but the paved roads are mostly more or less passable.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

The beauty of the road is also not true. The roads are beautiful. There are just not enough mountains. Zanzibar is a flat island. But the trees are great!

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

In Chuini, we turn onto the dirt road, and I understand that we have not seen everything on the Zanzibar roads yet) The road seems to be cut in an absolutely narrow place. Sheer earthen walls to the right and left, just below our windows. It's good that we changed the car. On the old one, we would definitely get stuck here at the turn) And suddenly a moped is coming towards us! I don’t know how it turned out, my husband pressed in, but the moped darted past, didn’t even catch the mirror) I just hiccupped.

And here is the hotel. And he is! Like in a fairy tale. Sandy paths, thicket trees and houses are scattered around the site, rare islands of civilization.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

And a restaurant! And there are pillows! I sat down in these pillows and disappeared while we were being decorated.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Here you can see a small bay, but there is no water now.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

The number is good!

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.


As soon as we were settled, my husband took the temperature (37.2), lay down in the position “their bean is sick”, and I laid out my things (God, there are a lot of cabinets and shelves! )) and ran to hand over things for washing.

The owner himself was sitting at the reception, I asked where they rent out laundry here, he himself took it from me. He asked not to hand over the linen. I fished out what is called linen from the laundry and stomped into my house. And the owner says something and says, but I do not understand almost anything. I thought he was calling me to show me where the laundry was, and he was waving his hands - stop here. Well, I'm standing. He comes with some powder in a cup, says that you need to come to our house.

- There the husband is sick, sleeping.

The owner insists.

I understand from his monologue that we have something with a tap there and he must bring the powder.

Probably clean the drains, I think.

Cautiously looking at my husband:

- Here they came to clean the plumbing, can I come in?

The husband reluctantly agrees. What to do if necessary.

We go to the bathroom, the owner begins to tell me that he brought me washing powder so that I can wash those things that he did not take into the wash. Unlike me, my husband understands English perfectly and laughs out loud in the room. Here the whole meaning of what is happening somehow reaches me, and I also laugh, show him that I have the powder, everything is fine, I can handle it))

“Lost in translation, ” he says to my laughing husband.

- Itz ok - the husband answers culturally.

I still remember how the owner of the hotel came to teach me how to wash clothes)

On this high note, I ask my husband to go to the beach with me (we are on the first line, it's just that the beach is separated from us by a small pedestrian road), but the husband again fits into Carlson's pose and is not going anywhere.

I'm walking alone.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

And there! It's even better)

Pool with partial overflow. . .

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

. . . a small garden, hotel Wi-Fi and a bar that works even if there is not a single person on the beach.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Mangrove view:

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Paradise, in general!

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

I even found hammocks, but in such a deserted corner that I was just afraid to be alone there)

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.


The beach line is not wide, cozy:

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Handsome mangroves)

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

What is even more strange - the sand is yellow and hot, while all over the island the sand is white, which does not heat up.

The bottom is rocky, I go into the water in slippers, carefully lean on a pillow, it is difficult to balance on the stones. But while I am swimming, the water comes in solidly and it was already easy to get out. The place that was with the stones went far under the water. But at low tide, in principle, you can swim if you are not afraid of stones.

The water here does not have fantastic colors. It is thick, slightly bluish, but it is very pleasant to swim.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

And most importantly, there are practically no people. Me and a Russian couple on a secluded swing just above the pool. Then another girl came, lay down in the sun by the pool, lay there for a while, then moved closer to the beach and the bar, another girl came to her and they talked in Italian for a long time. Not a single pair, not the second one, even entered the sea. The Russians swam a little in the pool.

In general, such silence there! Such bliss! I figured that by the time we got to Mangrove Lodge, we'd be adventurous and just lay here. Nowhere! We won't go anywhere! Well, except that we go to the hotel opposite (across the bay) to look at the ruins of the old palace of the Sultan.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

The ruins begin right at our hotel and there are a few more, in a more decent condition, in a neighboring hotel.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

Apparently the castle was once located on the site where the bay is now. Probably, the storm washed this place and all the fragments floated into the sea.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

What's left is already being licked by the waves and taking over the trees. If you do not pay attention to this place, then soon there will be no stone left unturned from the palace.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

When the sun sets low on the water and the loose coastal cliffs turn gold, locals appear on the beach. They do not touch the tourists, they just rest. A lot of children.

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.


In the evening, I still pull my husband out to a restaurant to have dinner (I didn’t have dinner at all, one might say). But somehow I don’t feel like eating, I just want sweets.

I order a pancake with something sweet, which attracts the attention of Russians, at the next table.

What do you have? )

We laugh that either aristocrats or degenerates allow themselves to dine with dessert, as well as have champagne for breakfast) neighboring hotel, across the bridge.

Exactly! Tomorrow I will use this bridge to reach the ruins! )

Zanzibar by car. Kizimkazi-Paje-Matemwe-Chuini-Stone Town.

We did not achieve prices in the restaurant. We just had dinner and left. Interesting)

Continued here >>>

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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