Hakuna Matata. Part 4. On the edge of the desert. Paje
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3 days. March 2
I had a plan for today - in the morning to reach the beautiful rocks, there, on the horizon. I plan to walk along the beach.
In the morning there is still water, it is not in a hurry to leave. I see that it is impossible to pass, but anyway, I go down and go, at least a little walk.
I meet a dog that reminds me of a Fukuoka Ridgeback. Not exactly similar, but along the spine, his hair seems to be growing in the wrong direction.
Watching the fishermen gather in the sea.
And how the first bathers bathe.
I'm thinking about whether I should take a swim, but no, if I'm not going to the rocks, then it's time for us to pack up. You can swim anywhere in Zanzibar.
Oh how wrong I was! )
Today we will move to Paje, the center of kiting in Zanzibar. Here we booked 3 nights with the expectation that we will travel to local attractions - to a cave, to a forest, to a restaurant on the water. And I just wanted to enjoy the kiters, I really liked this sight in Turkey.
Paje
We circle for a long time in the village, we can’t get to our guest house, then we put a local peasant in the car, who takes us to the guest house once or twice. On the way, we almost knocked down a pole, such narrow roads there. But we parked, left our things - it's morning, the room is not ready yet - and rode off to the sea. And there…
Desert.
Heat.
Wind!
And kiters on the horizon as small multi-colored dots.
Looking for a cafe. I have a mepsm tag, but we melt in the sun and don’t get there, but sit down in a beautiful, but not recommended by bloggers, restaurant. We order a salad with seafood. On the ocean. We look forward to it.
But how! ))
In the salad there are 3 small shrimps, sweet pineapple and lettuce leaves with sand. The wind carries sand in the face, in the plates, there is really a desert around. We chew sadly. I spit. Pineapple is sweet, like it's pineapple jam)
Somehow we printed Paje on the wrong side)
After having dinner, we trudge back through the heat. Massai arrive. They want to talk. I want to send them. Send loudly and with high notes in your voice.
But I'm holding back.
Let's go buy fruit, see the tourist center) It's closed. And probably already five years)
This is how the Zanzibar people live. Not all, of course, but the vast majority.
We arrive at the guesthouse, the room is ready, we fall down to rest from the heat, under the air conditioner.
But how! ))
The air conditioner rumbles, but nothing cools!
What is it! …
Let's go argue with the hostess. She explains that there is a bad voltage in Paje, the air conditioner will turn on at night. I wonder what about the payment, ($5 extra for air conditioning), she promises that we will not pay if the situation does not change. As a result, we were not charged for air conditioning and,
I think they even made a small discount for the room. But that doesn't make it any easier for me. We chose this guesthouse precisely because of the air conditioning. In Zanzibar, more than half of the housing does not have air conditioning. Of course, we were terribly upset and our entire stay in Paje, and in general in Zanzibar, was poisoned by this air conditioner.
At night, when we slept, flushed, wet from the unbearable heat, the air conditioner turned on. I was so afraid of getting sick that I switched places with my husband so that these nightly surprises blew on him. And he became seriously ill. The rest of the vacation, he mostly lay in the room and moaned. Maybe that's why he remembers Zanzibar as a horrible nightmare failed vacation.
When choosing accommodation, I took pity and ordered a guest house in Paje on the second line. It would seem - the second line, two steps to the sea, what's wrong with that, but as a result, we practically did not see the sea in Paje. In Zanzibar, you need to live "with your feet in the sea" - on the first line,
after all, with sun loungers in public places there strained. And on the Paj there are practically none. You need to ask somewhere to the hotel, and there they beat prices of $ 10 per sunbed. If you consider that there is no sea in Paje all day long, then the price is generally incredible. Sunbed on the edge of the desert for $ 10))
But on this day, we are both still healthy, cheerful, albeit unkind) we are going to swim in the pool, we need to cool off somehow. The pool is small but wet! ) and cool.
Time flies by.
The evening has already come. I dress up in a barely covering bathing suit, a laced short dress "a la Sochi" and, covering everything else, a huge straw hat, and we flaunt to the beach. What could be better than an evening beach, especially when the water comes only in the evening? )
The guests of our guesthouse look at me strangely. I thought,
that they didn’t like my legs) But I couldn’t even think how out of place my outfit is now on the beach! )) And not because the country is Muslim, the beach is the beach.
Here's why! )
The water roared against the concrete walls. The waves ruffled the coastal cafes and it seemed that each next wave was stronger than the previous one. It was like a natural disaster. I tried to stand in the surf line, clinging to a pole, but seaweed and debris beat on my legs. The sea ruffled some kind of basin back and forth, and he tried to huddle up to me. Horror! ))
We climbed onto the concrete railing, and I was sitting in the spray, swallowing the salty wind and screaming in my soul with delight! Stunned! Here is a surprise! Here is the element!
But somehow the Paje beach already scared me) That is the desert,
then a storm) When will there be a real beach here?
We had dinner in a chic restaurant on the square. Its chicness lay in the fact that there were no empty seats, there were normal prices and very, very tasty food. We ate lobsters there. Where are they, if not here?
But if you are looking for interiors and service, this is not the place for you. Simple wooden tables, wicker chairs, sandy floor, straw ceiling (I didn't know about snakes yet! (Spoiler)), and no walls at all, only railings. But there was no sand in the dishes. And flies. (And this is a spoiler)
The account is incomprehensible. But beautiful) Hakuna Matata!
Since we didn't get home, I'm in the same short translucent dress,
I just tied a pareo like a skirt. According to the new rules in Zanzibar, outside the beach, you can’t walk in a short one. They can even take you to jail)
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