Hakuna Matata. Part 3. Lost world. Kizimkazi and Mtende
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Day 2. March 1
We woke up very early because the sun starts to scorch so quickly here! We hoped to finish our business before lunch.
And we had two things to do:
1. View the rocks in Kizimkazi.
2. Go to Mtende beach.
But first, breakfast. In such a beautiful hotel, the breakfast must be excellent. We come - tea, coffee, fruits, pastries, jam, muesli . . And where is breakfast ? ?
Seeing our confusion, the waiter approaches. Ask what kind of eggs we prefer at this time of day) Scramble, fried eggs, fried on one side, on both sides, scrambled eggs?
Well... in general, not Rio de Janeiro) We eat pundyks)
But the view! It's not a view, it's fantastic! It doesn't happen! This cannot be on planet Earth…
Having had enough of a meager breakfast, we go to look for that random place (which is now easier to find, because I put a mark on mepsmi), through an interesting village, but we will stop there later. We drive up to the beach with boats, excursions to dolphins depart from here, rocks are visible in the distance. But the charm is already gone. That's how it happens. Either the ebb was still incomplete then, or the position of the sun affects... but we go to the rocks, we see them from different angles, but for some reason they are no longer the same as yesterday. Strike while the iron is hot, yeah)
But, we turn the corner, and there is such splendor! In the photo, of course, a swamp, but live - a space landscape)
We've never seen anything like this before!
Planet of Shelezyak)
We walk for a long time, the sun is already seriously hot, and ahead is Mtende - the pearl of the island of Zanzibar. We force ourselves to leave in order to go to an even more beautiful place.
You will be in Zanzibar - guess the time of low tide to see this wonderful, cosmic place.
We drive back again through the village, go out to take pictures of an old well and some structures that look like graves. Maybe it's a local cemetery.
There is a large laundry near the well.
Men do laundry here! Out of delicacy, I photograph them very far away.
Mtende.
Car entry 4.000 shillings. After payment - the road is killed vusmet. We park at someone's gate. Further on foot.
They say they don't take tours here. Surprisingly, because there is no more beautiful place in Zanzibar. At high tide, the turquoise water among the high cliffs and the stairs into the water make for a great backdrop for photos. And at low tide! At low tide, there is incredible beauty here! Just incredible beauty! And only for the sake of one Mtende you can fly to Zanzibar
Small fish are arrested in the puddles that remain in the bottom depressions. The water is clean and the fish are like in an aquarium, you can watch them endlessly!
In some places there are a lot of algae and hedgehogs (oh, you need to be very, very careful with them! ), but there are lagoons with white sand and the water in these places is absolutely incredible in color.
I just cry over these photos, they are so far from what I saw there.
And those stone circles! What is it? Is it some kind of natural formations, or did people do it for something? The view is fantastic.
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Slowly, slowly, rejoicing at every fish, we reached the restaurant on the rock.
The food there is good - quite tasty and very cheap. And very unusual)
But the main thing is the view. I have already run out of epithets) Explosion of the head) We just eat and watch.
My husband is worried that the tide will catch us here and we will not be able to get out, but there is still a long time before the tide. You can just relax and catch this buzz, which is now fashionable to call "living in the moment. " You are the vision. You are the rumor. You are the taste. The sea is so beautiful that it overshadows everything in the world.
If you're in Zanzibar, don't miss this place!
We still wanted to swim there, wandered back and forth, but we were tired, the sun bakes, and the sea does not come and does not come, and we already want to go home.
Now I remember and think - how could I get tired of this?
Before leaving, we go to a restaurant on a rock. My husband pretends to look at the menu while I climb up to the observation deck.
Oooh! From here at all! That's how I would spread my arms and fly!
The color of the sea in Zanzibar is amazing. I have never seen such a mosaic before. And you? )
We could no longer eat, but my husband categorically did not want to sit there (drink lemonade or coffee). He wanted under the air conditioner, but rather in the room and sleep. We overheated and smoked)
In order not to burn out, I brought with me a white sweater with water removal. It is not hot to walk in, it is not wet to swim and it perfectly protects from the sun. The main thing is not to forget to periodically appear in the sun without it, so that the difference between the hands and everything else is not too conspicuous, then, at home)
On the way, we stop in the village to buy goodies. We see how dinner is being prepared.
Chicken hearts are fermented) The heat is 50 degrees, according to our feelings. Or 80)
Everything is here, in the center - the bus is waiting for passengers, the hearts are waiting for the evening, the guys are playing table football under a canopy, and behind me (I didn’t take pictures of them head-on) the men are watching TV. TV is also here, under a canopy.
But when we arrived, we couldn't sleep. Because we were very attracted by the pool! )
True, he beckoned not only us, it darkened a little. The hotel is small, but when there is no water in the sea, everyone rushes to the pool.
I was already thinking that it would be good to sleep, as I was dragged away for a massage (very expensive, but good), and my husband went to the room.
And then the water arrived! Do you hear how it sounds? Like a celebration! Not just - we went swimming,
and WATER ARRIVED)
The water in this place comes great. It floods the entire beach and beats into the rocks lightly, without fanaticism.
There are no waves, there is only a slight wave on the stairs, disturbing the white fine sand, raising it into a light suspension of milky color, spinning small fragments of algae in this whirlpool. Again, the photo makes a swamp, but this is sand, like flour.
But two or three steps from the stairs and the water is clear. Ten steps - and the transparency is perfect. You swim and see the bottom. The bottom is empty, because even in the morning there was just a sandy beach. Perfect, white, sandy beach. And the perfect turquoise, deep, warm, caressing water. I said that there is nothing perfect in Zanzibar, but this particular beach was very close to the ideal)
I am now describing all this, and I envy myself that I was smart enough to take a hotel to Kizimkazi, at least for 2 days, despite the unflattering reviews about a beach holiday in this place. If you just come here in search of beaches, then you will not find them here. Or rocks, or boats, or hotels, but they won't let strangers in. You need to live on Kizimkazi. And it is during the period of high water.
Although, later we had the experience of penetrating someone else's hotel on the beach)
While I was swimming, a Masai “rolled up” to me. Almost all Maasai in Zanzibar are stylized as the proud warlike Masai tribe, local beach boys. They are thin and long. They are incredibly friendly and intrusive. They sell shells. . . and sex. And excursions. This one was selling dinner on the beach.
I was swimming again on the pillow and I wanted to: a) get rid of him as soon as possible,
b) not to go deeper, so that I would not be carried away to the sea again, c) to get on a romantic, on the beach) Therefore, we agreed very quickly. At 8 o'clock he will wait for us at the stairs and take us to dinner.
Actually at 8 he came for us (accuracy is the courtesy of kings), and for about seven minutes we were thinking about waiting for him or going to look for this mythical romantic restaurant ourselves. But then the Masai came after us and led us along the coast through a dark beach with a million boats (and stretched ropes from these boats! )) to a place where there were no boats anymore, but there was a barbecue and several tables with candles.
As we understood, each barkers had their own tables, and the main ones there were "cooks" - the same boys who cooked tuna and octopuses. They had horse prices, bargaining was very difficult, but when they brought the fish, everything fell into place - the fish was two kilograms, if not more.
Immediately, a thin cat nailed to us. The three of us with the cat did not even eat a third of the dish, and the cat ate the most!
But the octopus failed. The kids don't know how to cook. He was very tough. I called "my" Masai, he called one of the cooks.
“Try it, ” I suggested to them) – it doesn’t chew.
They tried it) Doesn't chew) They took it away to cook.
For a long time there this unfortunate octopus was fried, they peppered it terribly, they brought it. Doesn't chew. I gave them this octopus and didn't pay for it.
They dragged him to a far table. I don’t know about the further fate of the octopus) Perhaps someone less picky paid for it. But no one could have eaten it.
The guys did not argue about the payment, it was clear that the octopus was not a success, and the husband threw them a little at the end. He loves big gestures) I'm bargaining
and then he throws "for tea. " Everyone has their own entertainment)
Summarizing the trip to the "beach restaurant" - it's terrible! ) But cool)
There are some tablecloths on the tables. Candles in plastic bottles, they melt. Serving - the fish is piled on a plate by a mountain (but tasty). The octopus is hard, inedible. You can’t call the guys, they all crowd around the barbecue, they don’t follow the guests. The quality of food there, of course, no one controls. Well, their prices are high.
But the sound of the surf, the relative desertion (the tables are far from each other), the magnificent starry dome overhead, the flickering of candles - all this, of course, is pleasant and romantic.
I offered my husband to take the fish with me, but he said that we would throw out the tuna after the refrigerator anyway, why bother with it. We really didn’t even master a third of the plate. I'm afraid that the guys there are not particularly ceremonious, they will take it to someone else, like an octopus.
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