Autumn Tbilisi
How I longed to be in Tbilisi! I just really, really wanted to! And for some reason I imagined it in autumn colors. We all have such a visualization of a dream. And my dream was in golden yellow colors.
View of Tbilisi
But before getting there, I had to fight with the UIA air carrier.
We bought tickets 10 months in advance, at a very nice price, booked a hotel in the center of Tbilisi, and we were already looking forward to this Georgian hospitality, beautiful views and delicious cuisine.
And then a month before the trip, an SMS arrives: "Your flight is canceled"!
It turns out that UIA announced that low-cost fares are unprofitable and are being canceled, and large-scale flight optimization will be carried out. In this connection, our flight is also canceled, and they suggest that we contact the UIA contact center to return the money or reissue tickets for other upcoming flights.
But the phones of the UIA contact center stubbornly did not answer, emails were ignored, the answering machine insistently promised us that our call was very important for them, and they would definitely call back within 48 hours. For 48 hours, no one called back, and the answering machine began to promise an answer within 14 days.
Time passed, the mood rapidly fell. Thanks to our members of the forum: they connected, supported and suggested the idea of contacting UIA on Facebook. And it worked! A day later, we finally received an answer that, at our insistent request, the flights would still be changed for us, albeit not such a convenient departure time, but best of all, for the same money.
As a result, according to the initial plan of our stay in Tbilisi, we got three days and two nights, and in the final version - two days and almost three nights.
Well, well, anyway! But this is not the end of the story. A week before departure, we again receive SMS that our flight has been cancelled. Patience just ran out. How much can you mock people! We are testing a proven method and immediately write to Facebook. We explain that we are not going to cancel the trip and ask you to change tickets again. And we ask you to do this very quickly, because in a day it will no longer be possible to cancel the hotel reservation. The reaction followed literally within a couple of hours. Who else wants to pay for our reservation! And according to UIA rules, they would have to. And tickets change again. Of course, they exchange for the most inconvenient night flights both there and back, but we agree. I really want to visit Tbilisi, and we understand that there may not be more of such a price offer.
Night Tbilisi
The plane gently landed at the new airport in Tbilisi. It was already two in the morning. At passport control, the border guards presented a small bottle of dry red wine to all those who arrived.
We pre-booked a transfer from the hotel. A wonderful intelligent driver met us at the airport, showed us where the best exchange rate is (three months after our trips to Batumi the lari exchange rate dropped a little), and took us straight to the hotel.
We booked a room at the Old Key mini-hotel on David Aghmashenebeli Avenue. This hotel is more like a large apartment, consisting of eight rooms and one common living room.
Old key hotel common room
The entrance is through the old front door of a hundred-year-old residential building, perhaps at night we would not have found it right away. The reception is open around the clock, so we were quickly issued and sent spatula. The room is very comfortable, clean and, most importantly, very warm. The hotel has its own independent heating. And it's so nice! Because in Kyiv, in an apartment building, they heat, to put it mildly, not very much.
The only disadvantage of our hotel room is the windows to the avenue. In the silence of the night, suddenly passing cars rattle on the cobblestones like May thunder. Even earplugs don't help. For some reason, the noise is not felt during the day.
In the morning, the hotel serves a breakfast of cold cuts, vegetables, fruits and pastries. Very nice. And during the day you can drink tea and coffee with homemade cookies absolutely free.
Having refreshed ourselves, in a good mood, we move into the city. The sun is beginning to peek through and it is especially pleasing. Marjanishvili metro station is a two-minute walk from the hotel.
Near Marjanishvili metro station
In Tbilisi, everyone will be sold a Metromoney transport card, which costs 2 GEL. It needs to be replenished with money. The fare on the metro and buses is 0.5 lari (50 tetri), and on the cable car 2.50 lari. From this calculation we replenish. Before leaving, you can return the card and even get the balance on it, but for this, keep the first check, and you will need to present your passport.
The whole old city is located near the Avlabari metro station, it's three stops from us.
The first thing we hurry to see is the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity - Tsminda Sameba.
Tsminda Sameba Temple
The building is quite new. The temple was founded in 1995. It was consecrated 9 years after the laying, on the day of St. George the Victorious - the patron saint of Georgia. The temple is very big.
Tsminda Sameba in the evening illumination
The height is 101 meters, the total area is more than 5 thousand square meters. Within its walls, 15.000 parishioners can simultaneously accommodate. Photos inside are prohibited, so we just look around the cathedral, go deeper two floors below - there are also chapels with altars and icons.
The territory of Tsminda Sameba
A whole complex of structures is located on the territory of the temple: a bell tower, 9 chapels (5 of which are underground), the residence of the patriarch, the theological academy, a hotel, a park and a cafe "Lagidze Waters".
The territory of the temple of Tsminda Sameba
Inside, the temple resembles a museum. The walls are decorated with frescoes and paintings by various artists, and the floors are lined with marble and decorated with mosaics. Several very valuable icons are kept in the temple, one of which is the Hope of Georgia.
Hope of Georgia icon (photo from the Internet)
The icon is made of gold and precious stones. It took 30 kg of gold to make the icon, and its cost is $27 million. The icon depicts 432 saints of Georgia. Local women, looking at us, whisper approvingly: “These are Orthodox people! ” The fact is that Tbilisi is visited by a lot of Muslims from the UAE and Turkey, some of them do not show proper respect for the Orthodox faith.
On the territory of the park, right next to the entrance, there is the legendary cafe "Water of Lagidze".
Lagidze Water Cafe
The history of the Lagidze Water brand began at the end of the 19th century, when 14-year-old Mitrofan Lagidze was hired as an assistant pharmacist in Kutaisi. The owner of the pharmacy, among other things, was engaged in the preparation of soft drinks from foreign chemical essences. It was then that young Mitrofan came up with the idea to launch the production of natural fruit syrups, which later began to be used as the basis for all his lemonades. In 1887, he registered his own beverage production company Mitrofan Lagidze. And in 1900, he launched a small factory in Kutaisi for the production of syrups from fruits and herbs, which the Georgian land is so rich in. In 1906, Mitrofan Lagidze arrived in Tbilisi and launched a new plant, and then opened the Lagidze Water brand store on Rustaveli Avenue.
The menu of a modern cafe contains several types of khachapuri and lobiani, which will be baked for you in 15-20 minutes. All this is worth a try along with delicious lemonade.
Khachapuri and tarragon lemonade
Leaving the territory of the temple, we go for a walk around the old city. Admiring the Palace of the President. . .
Presidential Palace
. . . and descend into the modern Rike Park, which is popular among the townspeople and guests of the city.
Rike Park is the newest park in the city. The park was laid out under President Saakashvili (as Georgians affectionately say - under Misha) in 2010 on the site of drained sands. There are practically no empty spaces in the park, the entire space is occupied by unusual infrastructure facilities.
Concert Hall in Rike Park
It looks controversial, for example, a concert hall in the form of two glass-metal pipes.
Concert Hall in Rike Park
And from the park, the glass bridge of Peace is thrown to the other side of the Kura.
Bridge of Peace
Many Georgians do not like the innovations of modern architects, but perhaps the Peace Bridge is destined for the fate of the Eiffel Tower, because it is already very popular with tourists.
Ropeway
And right from the park, the cable car will take you to the ruins of the Narikala fortress.
The exact age of the fortress is unknown, but it already existed in the 4th century. Rebuilt in the 16th-18th centuries.
Narikala Fortress
The walls of the fortress descended parallel to the river, which, along with the Metekhi fortress, located on the left bank, gave the dominant position of the citadel in the region. Now the fortress is the remains of one tower and the church of St. Nicholas, rebuilt in the late 90s. One and a half thousand years later, the city has grown significantly, and Narikala still majestically stands above it, continuing to keep within its walls the richest history of Georgia.
After climbing to the top of the hill, walking through the ruins, past the Mother Georgia monument, we descend to the Botanical Garden. The garden is huge - 128 hectares.
Tbilisi Botanical Garden
These are the lungs of the city! It's so great to breathe in there! It was founded back in 1845 on the site of ancient gardens belonging to the royal house of Georgia.
In the Botanical Garden
Today, the park is a landscape that pleases the eye. . .
In the Botanical Garden
. . . with authentic bridges across the river, a waterfall. . .
Waterfall in the Botanical Garden
. . . and an abundance of local flora.
By the way, the local Openwork Bridge is considered the oldest building in the city. During the reign of Queen Tamara, it was part of the route from Iran to Mtskheta.
Openwork bridge in the Botanical Garden
From the Botanical Garden through the restored streets of a residential area with beautiful mosques. . .
Mosque near the sulfur baths
. . . which adjoins directly to the rock. . .
The area of sulfur baths
. . . we are going to the famous sulfur baths.
Square near the sulfur baths
The area of sulfur baths is very landscaped, a footpath has been laid. . .
The area of sulfur baths
. . . through which, through graceful bridges, all walkers come to a waterfall located in the Tbilisi Canyon.
Promenade near the sulfur baths
It is interesting, if only because a rare city on our planet has a waterfall right in its very center.
Tbilisi Canyon, also known as Legvta Khevi, is a section of the Tsavkisistskali River from the sulfur baths to the waterfall and the beginning of the Botanical Garden. This long forgotten and abandoned canyon was reconstructed in the fall of 2012 and turned into a nice walking area with night illumination, benches and cafes. Now it is a mandatory item in the program of any Tbilisi excursion and a city attraction. But in Soviet times it was a dead end where cars parked.
Waterfall near the sulfur baths
A visit to the sulfur baths was not included in our shortened program. Still, two days in total, and we decided to dedicate them only to walks around the city.
After crossing the bridge, we find ourselves in the Metekhi district (another of the oldest districts of Tbilisi) with an ancient temple, which, as it were, grows out of a huge rock on the left bank of the Kura. Spread over the river, the temple silently looks at the city itself and at modern people, carefully stores somewhere in its very depths all the memories that he had to endure.
Metekhi Temple
The Metekhi temple, like Tbilisi, has a difficult fate. Here, according to legend, the first palace of King Vakhtang Gorgasal was built. In those distant times, it was from Metekhi that the development of Tbilisi began. Once there was a large royal palace next to the temple, and all the buildings were surrounded by powerful fortifications. During the time of the Mongols, the palace was destroyed and the temple damaged.
Several centuries later, the Turks came to the Metekhi castle, they were replaced by the Persians. But every Georgian king considered it his life's work to revive the temple. Thanks to this, the ancient building has survived to this day.
Near the temple there is an equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasal. He was, according to legend, 2 meters and 40 centimeters tall. And when he sat on a horse, his legs reached the ground. And Gorgasala means wolf's head. The king wore a wolf's head on his helmet, apparently to intimidate enemies.
The next day, a priest told us about King Gorgasala in the temple of Sioni, which we entered.
Sioni Temple
What is nice, the priests themselves come up, ask where we came from, tell about the history of the temple and the shrines stored in it, and also bless. In the Sioni temple there are now two shrines - the head of the Apostle Thomas (which many tourists do not know about) and the Cross of St. Nino, which, according to legend, was given to her by the Virgin before she was sent to Georgia.
St. Nino's Cross (photo from the Internet)
This vine cross is tied with Nino's hair and engraved on its stone frame: "Honest Cross, have mercy on us. "
Sioni Temple is also famous for the fact that Alexander Griboedov and Nino Chavchavadze were solemnly married here. But this marriage had a very tragic fate. During the wedding, Griboedov dropped his wedding ring - this was considered a bad sign. Almost immediately after the marriage, Griboyedov was forced to go to Persia to serve, leaving the 16-year-old pregnant Nino Chavchavadze at home. A few months later, Griboyedov was killed. Having learned about this terrible event, Nino had a premature birth, and the child died. For the rest of her life, she wore mourning for her husband and remained faithful to him.
November 28, in Tbilisi, the sun is on the street and +15.
Persimmon grows on trees in the city center
Enjoy the good weather, walk along the streets of the city. . .
Old Town
. . . and we go to the embankment of the Kura, on which there is another small but ancient temple of Anchiskhati.
Anchiskhati Basilica
Studying the ancient chronicles of Georgia, historians have found evidence that the Anchiskhati Basilica was built during the reign of the Iberian king Dacha Ujarmeli, who decided to transfer his capital from Mtskheta to the glorious city of Tbilisi.
Just think about it, it was built back in the 6th century!
Why is this small church so important for the Georgian capital? This is a living testimony, a reminder of the history of the emergence of the city of Tbilisi as the capital of Georgia. At that time, the city was actively built up and developed, the temple was one of the first buildings.
And here the friendly rector of the temple talked to the tourists and blessed them on the road.
Literally a stone's throw from the temple is the Rezo Gabriadze Puppet Theater.
Puppet Theatre
The building is a very strange shape. On the figured pediment of the theater, Gabriadze's motto is written in gold letters: Extra Cepam Nihil Cogito Nos Lacrimare (which means "Let our tears be only from cutting onions").
Twice a day - at 12.00 and 19.00 - during the chiming clock, a small puppet show called "The Cycle of Life" is held on the theater tower. Of course, it is not as impressive as on the Prague Orloj, but it is very nice, and still worth a look.
Our weekend in Tbilisi is coming to an end. The sun hides behind the mountain, the evening lights begin to gently illuminate the city, and we involuntarily understand that it is time to return home.
Evening Tbilisi
The city says goodbye to us, and we say goodbye to it. Tbilisi is a very pleasant city. It attracts, delights and firmly settles in our hearts, charging us with its positive energy.
