Helsinki from the director of the school of disobedience

12 May 2016 Travel time: with 18 January 2016 on 24 January 2016
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Whether it's a new city on your travel map or a place you've already been to, it's always interesting to find and discover something new. Therefore, if you are planning a deep dive into the atmosphere of the city, then it is better to spend some time studying the local calendar of events taking place on the days of the upcoming visit. It is possible to find something amazing that, in addition to excursions, will add even more vivid, unforgettable impressions. And the aftertaste from what you see at exhibitions, heard at concerts and felt during festivals will make you return to this city again and again.

We knew Jaani before. Therefore, going to the exhibition, we agreed to meet with him. In addition, he kindly agreed to be a guide for a while and show places in Helsinki where he likes to visit.


It was a great opportunity to see the city from an unusual angle, exploring the favorite places of Scandinavian artists. So, 5 places in Helsinki from the director of the School of Disobedience.

1. Of course, like any artist, Jaani often visits the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art and recommends visiting this place to everyone who comes to Helsinki. The museum was opened in March 2015 after restoration, and its name comes from the ancient Greek word "chiasma" and refers to the place of partial intersection of the optic nerves. The idea of ​ ​ intersection is displayed in the very form of the building, where the straight and rounded parts move towards each other. This place can evoke many different feelings, such as delight and hatred, surprise and irritation, and at the same time makes you think, encourages action. Perhaps this is due to the fact that no emotions are alien to contemporary art.

In any case, this is a great opportunity to touch modern art, to get strong impressions that will be remembered for a long time. Kiasma regularly replenishes its funds. The collection contains more than 8500 art objects, to which about 100 new works are added every year. The main attention is paid to the art of Finland and neighboring countries. The museum is located in the center of Helsinki at Mannerheiminaukio 2. The entrance ticket for an adult will cost from 8 to 12 euros, and children under the age of 18 can visit it for free. For all other visitors, on the first Friday of each month, admission is free - from 10.00 to 20.30.

2. When asked to recommend a good restaurant in Helsinki, the word “ravintola” often pops up in my head. Yes, that's right, it was on the sign of the restaurant where they liked the food. . . However, this word, translated from Finnish, just means "restaurant".


It can often be found on signs next to the name of the institution. Yes, we are used to the fact that a restaurant is a restaurant, only it is written in Latin letters. It is not surprising that in Finland the frequently encountered word "ravintola" is easily remembered as the name of the restaurant itself. Jaani Leinonen is one of the regulars at the Favela bar at Mechelininkatu 13. This place is considered one of the coolest places in the Toolo district in Helsinki. All dishes from the menu are very tasty. According to the artist, pea stew is a chef's specialty. Jaani also likes to kill a worm in restaurants in the building of the Hietalahti covered market. The marketplace is located on the square of the same name not far from the city center. You can get here by tram number 6. Hietalahti is the second oldest covered market in Helsinki. It was opened in 1903, and its construction started 4 years earlier, back in 1889.

For more than a century, both a food and a flea market functioned here, and more recently, cafes and small restaurants have occupied almost the entire premises of the market. Jaani's favorite place here is the LE MARCH cafe. It prepares interesting dishes that combine French bistro cuisine with traditional Finnish gastronomy.

3. At the entrance to the harbor of Helsinki on the islands of the Wolf Skerries, there is the Suomenlinna sea fortress. The fortification has a history of more than 250 years: It was built in 1748-1772. At that time, Finland was part of the Kingdom of Sweden, and the fortress was named Sveaborg. In 1808, after a short siege, the outpost surrendered, and the country of a thousand lakes went entirely to the "peace-loving" mother Russia. Until the Finns gained independence, an occupying garrison was located on the territory of the fortress.

Today, here you can see the preserved forts and bastions, as well as visit the Maneesi military museum, the Augusta gallery and the customs museum, as well as visit the Vesikko submarine. This place is very popular during the summer. Residents of the city usually come here on their boats, and tourists can use the ferry that departs from the market square in the center of the capital. A two-way ticket will cost 5 euros; city transport tickets are valid on the ferry. Suomenlinna was recommended by Jaani Leinonen as the place where the most delicious beer in the Helsinki region is produced. You can taste it a couple of tens of meters from the pier, in the Suomenlinnan panimo brewery.

4. Hernesaari embankment is rightfully considered an urban oasis. It comes to life in April, with the first warm days. Here, wooden terraces stretch along the shore with many food containers, on the menu of which you can find Finnish fish delicacies.


In addition, thanks to the numerous saunas located here, everyone can indulge in a favorite form of recreation for the Finns. The Hernesaari peninsula is the southernmost part of the center of Helsinki, and the promenade is only 2 km from the center of the capital. Jaani Leinonen loves to come here with friends, take a steam bath and taste delicious food at his favorite restaurant Cafe Birgitta. Perhaps one of the summer evenings you will be lucky enough to chat with him here.

5. In addition to the museums in Helsinki, lovers of contemporary art will be able to find small author's art galleries. They are mainly located in the very center of the capital, although in recent times new studios, exhibitions and alternative galleries have also appeared “in the districts”. The old port buildings in Munkkisaari (and here is the shipyard) are a favorite place for workshops and galleries of creative people.

And all thanks to an attractive rental price and proximity to the city center. At Telakkakatu 6 is one of these small but very popular contemporary art galleries - Zetterberg gallery. It opened in 2008 and now works with some of the most interesting and influential contemporary artists. Part of the room is occupied by the workshop of Jaani Leinonen.

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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