One day in Denmark
Arriving at dawn in the Swedish port of Ishtad, we quickly overcome the Swedish fields with windmills by bus and approach the delicate lace of the 16-kilometer Erisonnbryn bridge connecting Sweden (Malmö ) with Denmark. This is one of the gates to the Danish kingdom. The border runs along the middle of the bridge and is marked only by a round shield depicting the stars of the European Union on a blue background and the inscription "Denmark". Yes, and Denmark itself can be compared with a bridge thrown from Europe to the Scandinavian Peninsula.
A small country with a rich history
On the way, our guide begins the story of this small kingdom, noting that Denmark is so small in size, but so rich in history and sights, that you can completely cross it from end to end without finishing the story about it. The fact that in Denmark no one lives more than 54 km from the sea speaks eloquently about the size of the territory and the peculiarities of the configuration of the country's borders.
Denmark is located on the Jutland peninsula (there is the only 68-kilometer land border with Germany) and 500 AD. e. Jutland was settled by the Danish tribe, who moved from the territory of modern Sweden. Up to 105.406 islands, 100 of which are inhabited. This is one of the most low-lying and flat countries in the world. Approximately in the city there was a single Scandinavian community, after the collapse of which a number of Scandinavian peoples (in particular Danish) formed, and the Danish state was formed (X century).
The unification of the country was finally completed during the reign of Harold I (987). This is also evidenced by the inscriptions on the runic stone in Jelling, where the word "Denmark" appears for the first time. The Jelling stones are considered to be the "birth certificate" of Denmark.
In 1397, as a result of the Kalmar Union, a union of three states was formed - Denmark, Norway and Sweden under the rule of the Danish queen Margrethe I (Margrete I). The union lasted until Sweden, led by King Gustav I, seceded in 1523. Denmark and Norway remained united until 1814, when Denmark renounced Norway in favor of Sweden in the Peace of Kiel. Norway's former North Atlantic possessions: Greenland, Iceland and the Faroe Islands remained part of the Kingdom of Denmark, with the exception of Iceland, which declared independence in 1944. Later, the Faroe Islands and Greenland received local self-government.
For quite a long period, all these peoples spoke dialects of the Danish language (one of the modern Norwegian languages, Bokmå l, is a dialect of Danish).
Denmark has long been considered the most prosperous country on the planet. Satisfied Danes live here in abundance, honoring their queen and completely trusting the unicameral parliament, called the Folketing.
In Denmark, as in all other Scandinavian countries, the main religion is Protestantism (the Evangelical Lutheran Church).
Modern Denmark is an example of a country with highly developed technology, high-quality free medicine, decent education, decent pensions, high life expectancy (76 years for men and 81 years for women). There is almost no unemployment in the country. GDP per capita - $59.130 (for example: in Ukraine - $3.210, in the USA - $47.580, in Norway - $87.070) according to the World Bank for 2008
There are more than 700 museums, well-preserved ancient castles and fortresses in small Denmark. There are more than 60 of them in Copenhagen alone. There is also the famous Madame Tussauds wax museum, the Guinness World Records Museum, the Postal and Television Museum, and the Museum of Wonders with curiosities from all over the world and with a very unusual name “Believe it or not ”, and even the Museum of Erotica, the first in the world to demonstrate the history of eroticism in its exposition, consisting of postcards, photographs, films, sculptures and other things. The traveler will not be bored to visit the Museum of Carriages, the Museum of the History of the Theater, the Round Tower, the Museum of Labor.
For connoisseurs of art, the doors of the Glyptothek and the Thorvaldsen Museum (a collection of collections of paintings and sculptures) are open. And someone just wants to take a walk in Christiania - "the country of free artists. " Centuries-old Danish history, numerous monuments of the past and short distances between attractions often make visitors exclaim: "This is not a country - this is a fairy tale come true! ".
One of the main attractions of Denmark is the Danes themselves, their friendliness, hospitality and humor. The Danes live at the crossroads of Scandinavian, European and Baltic cultures. This helped them to be open both in terms of boundaries and to outside influences. The key to the Danish heart is the word "hygge", which means a combination of warmth, wellness and intimacy.
About the kings, queens and princes of Denmark
Denmark is the oldest kingdom in the world, the power of kings has not stopped for a single day in the entire history of the kingdom. I note that all the kings of the Oldenburg and Glü cksburg dynasties (from 1442 to the present) were not original: all the kings were called either Christians or Fredericks.
Here is one fact from history that characterizes the king's true concern for his subjects. April 9.1940 German troops enter Denmark and capture the country within 2 hours. According to legend, after the occupation of Denmark by the Nazis, Christian X, whose motto was the phrase: “My God, my country, my honor”, upon learning of the order that Danish Jews must wear a yellow Star of David, asks Queen Alexandrina to attach a Star of David to his clothes as a sign of solidarity with the Jews, saying that all Danes are equal. With the Star of David on his chest, he makes horse rides around Copenhagen. The example of the king is followed by ordinary Danes, attaching yellow stars to their clothes, buildings and cars. After that, the order was canceled. . .
Despite the fact that this story is often told in the media, it never really happened. In particular, the occupation authorities never issued an order for Danish Jews to wear such badges. It originated from a conversation between the king and his finance minister, Wilhelm Buhl, during which Christian X remarked that if the German administration tried to introduce the wearing of the Star of David in Denmark, "perhaps then we should all wear it. " But as a sign of gratitude, in the Israeli Yad Vashem memorial on the Alley of the Righteous, tree number 25 is dedicated to the People of Denmark, number 26 to King Christian X.
In the entire history of the monarchy, only two queens ruled, who also bore the same name: Margrethe I (1387-1412) and the current Margrethe II (on the throne since 01/14/1972). But the time of their reign is a bright page in the history of the country. Margrethe I forever entered the history of Denmark, subjugating all of Scandinavia (remember the Kalmar Union).
The Danes adore their current Empress Margrethe II. There is no gossip about her, similar to those that accompany the life of Buckingham Palace. The only case of discussion of the behavior of the queen did not touch her personal life at all. This was the period when the Danish parliament had just introduced a ban on smoking on planes. And Margrethe, a heavy smoker, either out of forgetfulness or for some other reason, took up and lit a cigarette. All the newspapers discussed: is it possible to make an exception for royal persons. The queen does not give other reasons for discussion. She is a busy woman. Together with her husband, she translates books and draws. As an artist, she designed several books (including the Danish translation of Tolkien's The Lord of the Rings), acted as a costume designer in several theatrical productions and was even a ballet production designer. One of her main duties - the education of a worthy heir to the throne - she also successfully fulfilled. According to the general opinion of the subjects, Crown Prince Henrik turned out to be what he needed. Margaret allowed her son to marry for love, which won the love of her subjects even more. Her birthday in Denmark is a national holiday with carnivals and fireworks.
Copenhagen - the soul of Denmark
The capital Copenhagen is located on one of the largest islands in the region - Zeeland on the shores of the Erison Strait, a waterway connecting the Baltic and North Seas. A beautiful historical city founded in 1167 by Bishop Abasalon. It became the capital back in 1443.
Copenhagen welcomes us with coolness, strong drafts, but, to our joy, without rain, which is a frequent visitor there. You involuntarily compare him with a hospitable person who hospitably opened his gates to the guests in the city, famous for its numerous monuments, spiers, towers and bell towers.
Visiting the Langelinje embankment. . . The church of St. Alban has an interesting object - a large fountain depicting the mythological goddess of fertility Gefion with a stern face and pumped up biceps, chasing four angry bulls with a whip. It was created in 1908 by Anders Bodgord, using a legend from Scandinavian mythology, according to which the Swedish king set a condition: how much land he plows in a night, he will receive so much. Gefion, waved her whip and the bulls plowed all night, tore off a huge piece from Sweden. This is how Denmark was born.
Further across the bridge we come to the monument to Frederick IX, who ruled from 1947 to 1972 - the father of the current queen. Not far away is another sculptural composition of Princess Mary with a child.
Let's go to a beautiful flower park, in the center of which there is a majestic monument, at the foot it is furnished with muzzles of cannons and cannonballs, the top is decorated with the symbol of victory, the goddess Nike. This is the Obelisk of Glory, dedicated to the memory of the Northern War of 1700-1721.
Our tour continues, and we come to the place where the symbol of Copenhagen is located - the Little Mermaid, but she is not there... The guide understands and hurries to reassure: the Little Mermaid is on a "business trip". In Beijing, at the international exhibition.
Amalienborg Palace Complex - Head of Denmark
Among other sights seen, the Amalienborg Palace complex, built in the 1750s, stands out. The complex got its name from the name of the mistress of the palace, which stood here, but completely burned down - Sophie Amalienborg. Four identical buildings are located opposite each other in an octagonal square, in the center of which rises an elegant equestrian monument to Federico V. The buildings are surrounded by a garden that separates them from the port.
We were lucky - we witnessed a colorful and solemn ceremony of changing the guard of honor. Exactly at noon, to the bravura sounds of the march, the royal guards in dark blue uniforms and caps cheerfully marched past us and took up their posts, replacing the same brave fellows in uniform, but only in high bear hats.
Nearby is the famous Marble Cathedral. Its dome with a diameter of 30 m is very similar to the dome of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. The interior of the cathedral is as solemnly majestic as the outside.
Not far from the Marble Cathedral rises the golden-domed Russian Orthodox Church of Alexander Nevsky. It was built in 1864 specifically for the royal family, who visited Denmark almost every year, and for the employees of the Russian embassy.
Rosenborg Castle and the Royal Garden - one of the jewels of the royal crown
Denmark can rightfully be called a museum country. What other country boasts 800 castles and museums. And all this is located on the territory of 44 thousand square meters. km. Fans of fortresses and castles have something to see. For example, paying attention to Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen. Christian IV built Rosenborg in 1606-34 as a holiday castle. The style of this castle - the Dutch Renaissance, was largely determined by the drawings made by the hand of Christian IV himself. Subsequent kings also used the castle until Frederick IV built Frederiksberg in 1710. After that, Rosenborg was visited by kings only occasionally, mainly for official receptions and the like. In addition, it was used as a pantry for royal property, heirlooms, thrones, regalia, etc. were stored in it.
As a museum, Rosenborg has a long tradition. As early as 1838, the royal storerooms were open to the public. The rooms furnished for Christian IV and Frederick IV have been restored to their original state. Castle life of subsequent kings is presented in halls whose furnishings show a change in style and include furnishings from royal castles. The purpose of this was to show the national history, which, in the opinion of that time, was strongly connected with the royal dynasty. Such a chronologically arranged exposition was a new word in museum business, differing from the thematic expositions of museums of earlier times. When, in the 60s of the XIX century, Rosenborg was discovered in the form in which it mostly came down to us, it attracted more public attention. The royal dynasty was represented in it until the last dead king, in connection with which Rosenborg became the first museum in Europe dedicated to its time.
It is worth highlighting its basement and treasury. Its exposition presents the attributes of royal life: weapons and wine, ivory and amber items, riding clothes, royal jewelry, a scepter, crowns of autocrats, etc.
Across the Green Bridge we pass to the Royal Garden, which was intended for the amusement of the king and partly for growing fruits and vegetables for the royal table.
For security reasons, the garden was surrounded by a moat, over which a drawbridge was thrown. The oldest part of the garden in the style of the Dutch Renaissance was specially preserved, moreover - walking in the garden, as well as in the palace, you can see how the fashion for the appearance of the garden, their layout and garden decorations changed. Each architect of the castle brought something of his own to the gardens, and as a result, a territory of 12 hectares was obtained. There are pavilions in the neoclassical style, and a number of notable sculptures. Green galleries are replaced by neat lawns, comfortable benches are everywhere. A wonderful place to relax is now not only for kings - since the beginning of the 18th century, the garden has been open to everyone.
City Hall Square - the heart of Copenhagen
We continue our walking tour at the Town Hall Square - a large square that can accommodate more than 100 thousand people at the same time. This happened twice in its history: the first time in 1945 after the liberation of Denmark from fascism, the second - in 1992, when the country's team won the European Football Championship. First of all, our attention was drawn to the City Hall, built of dark red brick, like many buildings in Copenhagen, incl. railway station, Tivoli Park and Glyptothek. On the pediment of the Town Hall there is a golden bas-relief of Bishop Abasalon. Several ugly dragons sit in front of the Town Hall, as if guarding the entrance to it.
Near the Town Hall there is an unusual fountain called "The Bull Tearing the Dragon".
To the left of the Town Hall there is a high red pedestal, on which two Viking troubadours stand, blowing lures. Several legends are associated with this pedestal. According to the first legend, if the country is in danger, the Vikings will blow their lures for real, and the hero Holger of Denmark, who is resting in the dungeon of Kronborg Castle, will rise to the defense. According to the second, the Vikings should blow their trumpets if an innocent girl passes through the square. Copenhageners, on the other hand, joke and assure that lures will sound at the moment when at least one person who has paid all taxes appears on the square. Whose side we take into account, but the fact remains - so far no one has heard the sound of pipes.
In the corner of the Town Hall Square there is a monument to Hans Christian Andersen with polished bronze knees: everyone, young and old, wants to sit on the knees of the great storyteller. Andersen looks towards the famous Tivoli, which is rather strange, because Andersen was an ardent opponent of the creation of an amusement park.
On the tower near the Town Hall Square there is a figurine of a girl on a bicycle. This is a kind of weather forecaster. If rain was expected, then a girl under an umbrella would leave.
Streget street - the central artery of the city
Next, we walk along the longest pedestrian street Strø get in Europe, located in the very center of the Danish capital, which stretches from the noisy Town Hall Square to the New Royal Square - a wide open space in front of Christianborg Palace, which now houses the Danish Parliament. Its length is 1800 m. Strø get includes a network of several intersecting streets of the old town, however, the streets crossing it are not pedestrian. At the intersection there are several squares, in the center of which are the wonderful Caritas fountain, a fountain on top of which stands a woman with children, as well as pavilions with various food, ice cream and drinks.
The center of Strø get Street is Amagetovr Square, reconstructed in 1993. The fountain of storks located on it is about 100 years old. The street is literally dotted with all sorts of restaurants, cafes, shops with goods for every taste, including souvenirs.
At the entrance to one of these establishments there is a sculpture of the tallest man in the world (he is a Dane) and we did not fail to take a picture with him. Strø get ends with the New Royal Square with a monument to Christian V in the center. The most notable building on the square is the Royal Theatre. This is a habitat for street musicians, artists, they are on duty there, waiting for customers and “pedicab”.
The Latin Quarter is the brain of Denmark
Turning off Strø get street, we go in and look at the Cathedral of the Holy Virgin Mary. Inside it is very light, sculptures are placed on the sides.
Behind the cathedral is the university district, called the Latin Quarter. It owes its name to the University of Copenhagen, one of the oldest in the world, founded in 1479. Busts of university graduates lined up in front of one of the buildings, bringing Denmark fame in the scientific community, among whom we recognize the outstanding physicist Niels Bohr.
We end our walk through the Latin Quarter with a visit to another curiosity - the Round Tower, on the facade of which a golden emblem is fixed. It was built in 1642 as an astronomical observatory of the ancient Copenhagen University. The height of the tower is 36 meters. Inside the building there is a spiral gentle rise without steps, the length of which is 209 meters. A curious fact - along this unique rise in 1716, the great Tsar of All Russia, Peter the Great, rode on a horse to the very top of the tower! Yes, and not alone, but accompanied by a carriage with Tsarina Catherine. Now a rotating dome is installed on this peak, from the platform of which an amazing panorama of Copenhagen opens. Having examined the tower, we go to the port quarter of Newhaven.
Boat ride through the blood arteries of the city
We end our walking tour in one of the most picturesque areas of the city of Newhavn (New Harbor), which stretches along the New Harbor Canal connecting the inner city with the sea. The canal was dug back in 1671 by the design of the royal engineer, and most of the buildings built along it have more than three hundred years of history. He is extraordinarily handsome. Peacefully swaying on the water, ancient wooden ships against the backdrop of neat, clinging to each other two - three-story multi-colored houses - the sight is simply unforgettable! In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the area around the canal was the center of trade in Copenhagen. In the port, we board a boat open to all winds and go on a boat trip along numerous canals and the strait, so we managed to see almost all the sights of the city. The first thing the guide pays attention to is the house where Hans Christian Andersen lived and worked more than a century and a half ago.
We are warned to duck: we pass under a very low bridge, one of many that we will see during more than 2 hours of walking. The boat literally maneuvers among numerous yachts. Yachts are a common landscape in Copenhagen. There are so many of them on our way, it seems that each resident has his own yacht. And we thought that bicycles were the main and favorite mode of transport for Copenhageners. Or maybe a yacht, and a car, and a bicycle are essential attributes for the life of every Dane!
And how many small cafes and restaurants standing on the water, we met - they simply cannot be counted! And everywhere calm, unhurried, friendly people. While sailing along the canals, we pay attention to the fact that modern buildings harmoniously coexist next to historical sights.
So we sail past the ultra-modern building of the Royal Library, called "Black Diamond" for its shiny black color, past the new high-rise building with blue windows - as if hundreds of blue eyes are winking at us.
The boat is approaching the coast of the famous state within the state of hippies and free artists, which in 1971 was proclaimed by the homeless and students as the "free state of Christiania". The "state" located on the territory of the former military barracks is based on the principles of collectivism, cars, hard drugs are prohibited here, there are no taxes, rent, but there is a free and bohemian life. With some apprehension and burning curiosity, an incredible number of tourists visit Christiania every year.
Sailing through one of the rather narrow canals, we pay attention to another temple - the Church of the Savior, with a unique spire, which, contrary to all architectural traditions, is twisted counterclockwise. It is located in the old district of the city, Christianhavn, where rich merchants and wealthy people used to build their mansions.
We are looking with interest at the residential quarter on the site of the former naval base, where the docks have been converted into elegant unique houses in which people live.
A walk along the canals ends our acquaintance with Copenhagen. You can talk about Copenhagen indefinitely. This city does not want to leave at all, just as you do not want to complete your story about it, because every corner, every street attracts, surprises and opens every time from a new side.
Bicycles are the ubiquitous legs of the Danes
Copenhagen has a well-developed transport infrastructure. Thus, the metro, S-train, buses, taxis are at the service of citizens and guests of the city. But the life of the Danes is calm and measured, many go to work or study by bike. They are said to be born with a bicycle. Tourists are assured that this is the favorite transport of ministers and members of parliament. Bicycles clearly prevail over cars, they stand freely on the streets and roads. Bicycle roads are the pride of the Danes, they are exemplary. Ten roads of national importance with a length of 3.300 kilometers have been laid throughout the country. Naturally, there are also local bike trails. Bicycle markings on Copenhagen roads appeared in 1901 - for the first time in the world, and the Dane Petersen was the father of the bicycle. There are 120 bike stands in Copenhagen. You approach the parking lot, throw a coin of 20 crowns into a special slot - and the bike is at your service. You skated, you approach any parking lot, put the bike in the rack - and 20 kroons fall out, that is, you use the bike for free. In the center of Copenhagen, you can also find rickshaws.
Kronberg Castle - the gate of the Kingdom of Denmark
Leaving the city, which in such a short time has simply fascinated us, we are heading to the city of Helsingø r, located forty kilometers from Copenhagen. In this city stands the castle of Kronberg. Unlike previous castles, Kronberg has little to peaceful daydreaming - it is harsh and aggressively gloomy. Bas-reliefs on the gates of the castle depict women with skulls in their hands, and heavy wooden doors are crowned with frighteningly grinning muzzles of monsters.
It was in this castle, according to Shakespeare, that the unfortunate Hamlet tormented himself in search of an answer to eternal questions, and it is there, somewhere in the dungeons, that the shadow of his father still does not calm down in search of a way of revenge. However, neither kings nor Shakespeare himself ever lived in Kronberg. Now it houses the Museum of Shipping and Trade. Here we say goodbye to hospitable Denmark. Having waved the castle with our hand, we enter the ferry a minute before departure at 18-00. In 20 minutes we will arrive by ferry to the Swedish city of Helsingbor. But it will be a completely different story. . .
Conclusions and reasons why you should visit Denmark
Denmark is a puppet kingdom that showed that there are no small countries. Small cozy Denmark is visually great, it has an atmosphere of peaceful peace, warmth and goodwill - all that the Danes call the short word "hygge". Some kind of fairy-tale spirit reigns in it: perhaps it was not by chance that she gave the world the great storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, on whose fairy tales more than one generation of people grew up in all corners of the Earth. It all looks like a wonderful castle with a good and kind owner who managed to create a comfortable life for his subjects. And those, in turn, respond to him with their love, non-slave attitude to work. The Danes work well and willingly pay very high taxes. They do not grumble about their fate, they understand that it will return to them a hundredfold, and will not settle in someone's swollen pockets. You involuntarily compare Denmark with your homeland and begin to understand why the Danes are rich and successful, while the Ukrainians are poor and powerless, despite the natural wealth God has given us. The lack of a decent government and an incentive for our people to highly productive work and a high culture of behavior is one of the reasons.
The second lies in our history and character.
I saw and learned everything I described in this essay in one day, or rather, in one working day. A lot or a little - judge for yourself. I want to come to this country for weekends and holidays, because. it has everything for a good rest and interesting pastime. These are numerous sandy beaches, boat trips on boats and yachts, numerous castles and museums, the original state of "hippie" Christiania, cozy streets with homely cozy restaurants and cafes and, of course, the famous Tivoli amusement park.
Denmark is a country for romantics. It is also for those who love the element of water, a kaleidoscope of landscapes and an almost homely atmosphere of warm hospitality.
