May in the Carpathians!
Carpathians 2016
What could be better than a combination of kind people and delicious food? These are the best features that not all parts of the world can afford. But fortunately we have the Carpathians and that says it all. This was our sixth trip to these beautiful lands. In general, our trips to the Carpathians began in 2009, even before our first flights and travel seasons. It was an unforgettable trip, we then discovered something new in our Ukraine. And now, as for the improvement of nerves every few years, you must definitely devote time to the Carpathians. The scheme was standard, on Friday from work to the train, from the train on Tuesday to work. This was clearly the start of our little gastronomic tour. During the three days that we spent, we probably tried the entire range of Hutsul cuisine. While searching for housing, on the Internet we came across some cosmic prices for the Carpathians, from 700 UAH per night and more. And warnings that there will be a lot of people there in May. But the Carpathians wouldn't be Carpathians if everything was so complicated there. There is no housing, we will find it on the spot, on weekends some of the buses of our route do not run, it's not a problem, rides will be taken.
Arriving by train in Volovets, we took a minibus to Mezhhirya. And in Mizhhirya we went to the first cafe that came across and asked the hostess where to check in, and here is a hotel room with all amenities at our disposal for 200 UAH ($ 8) per day.
Lake Synevyr
It has long been a dream to see him. Yes, getting to it from Kyiv is the same as getting to the hard-to-reach Machu Picchu in Peru, but it can be a little easier and much cheaper. Taxi drivers of a criminal type charged prices from 300-350 UAH. Where did such taxi drivers come from with such prices in this world of goodness? Frostbite from taxi drivers, the first ride picked us up herself, the driver asked if we were going to Synevyr. Great, with respect to the lake, this is already half the way, we will approximately pass. The driver told how he does not digest taxi drivers, and in defiance of them brings people up. We were charged “UAH 10 per nose” for gasoline. Then we went on foot in the hope that someone else would give us a lift. Immediately, at the crossroads, we met three cyclists who were heading in the same direction, and we began a kind of race to see who would be the first. While they were packing their stuff into the trunks of their bikes, we took the lead. The weather began to deteriorate, in addition to the beginning of the rain, everything was complicated by the gusty wind. While we were struggling with the umbrella, the cyclists passed us beautifully, then we caught up with them when they tried to pack in raincoats. And again we were ahead. Naturally, not even 5 minutes have passed, as they are already happy passing by us. And after 5 minutes we observe them at the source, gathering water. We wave to them and overtake them again. And after that, something happened that determined our victory - we were picked up by a car! A family from Uzhgorod went to Synevyr and decided to save us from the rain. Then, near the lake, an hour later, as we walked there, we saw them again and cheerfully greeted each other.
In the Synevyr park there were two roads to the lake, a forest path uphill and an even asphalt road. We chose exotic. Along the path were signs indicating the names of plants and animals that can be found. From some small animals you unwittingly begin to figure out which tree with what speed you can climb in case of a meeting. The lake turned out to be quite small, but it's cool to visit there, especially when the rain ended, which also decided to visit the lake that day. In order to complete the route, we also decided to walk along a ten-kilometer trail to some mountain, at least it was written on the sign, but the trail ended after 300 meters.
But, the sun came out and the lake became much more beautiful. After drinking mulled wine in a local hut, we set off on the return route. First, we were driven by the locals 3 km along the road. Then, after ten minutes of walking, guys from Lvov picked us up. After checking our GPS, we found out that their path lies straight through our Mezhgorye. While we were driving, we found out that our plans for tomorrow intersect, and took the hotel phone number, which they had already checked for themselves and found out that he was staying for a day. Outside the window went some unrealistic beauty of mountain landscapes. But it was impossible not to leave here. “Let us drop here please. ” The guys looked at us in surprise and asked if we were serious. And for us, we’ll get there on foot or catch a ride, we’re always happy to help. About 10 km remained to Mezhgorye. The beauty was still the same.
After walking around the mountains for an hour, we decided to come back, this time the locals, we were driving to the outskirts of our town. That's wonderful, then another three kilometers on foot along a mountain stream, and we are at home. Thus, instead of 350 UAH, the trip to the lake and back cost us 20 UAH ($0.9). It just pleases the lightness and ease of it all. We express our deep gratitude to the people who do not mind giving a lift to a tourist! Then we sat in a cool cafe, having eaten two large portions of a local masterpiece and a plate of delicious salad, paid about 120 UAH ($5) for two. We also really liked the tea in and we asked the waiter to find out what kind of tea it was. The guy eventually even told us where you can go and buy it right now. In general, this day was both tasty and beautiful. Looking at the night, we decided to take a walk, but it was not clear where the center was. A tipsy boy was walking along a deserted dark street, and when I asked him: “Where is the center? ” he was surprised to state the fact that we were right in the center. With the second question, we completely took out his brain, “Where can you walk around at night? ”. It was evident that the guy collected all his thoughts to the heap and apparently even sobered up from such difficult questions, he directed us to some park, which was not there. In general, you can’t ask people such difficult questions at night.
Bell ringing, as if trying to blow our heads. I couldn't understand what was going on. After six loud blows, there was a lull, but not for long, then about thirty more of the same blows. As far as we understood, this meant that it was now half past six in the morning. Residents of Mezhgorye all clearly know when it's half past seven. Although our theory may be a failure, it is possible that the bell is simply struck every morning about three dozen times without reference to time.
Before the minibus, we still had a couple of hours, we chose a more beautiful mountain for ourselves and climbed on it to enjoy the views. Even jackets were left half way to make it easier to walk. Somehow in the Carpathians there is no fear that someone will thwart them. I remember how four years ago we left the stroller in the bushes like that, when it was already unbearable to ram it uphill or knocked on someone’s house so that they would hold the stroller for a couple of hours. Yes, without Misha and the stroller it was much easier to climb the mountain. Yes, and Misha would hardly have appreciated the idea of climbing the mountains now. It was about ten in the morning and for some reason all the open cafes said that the kitchen would open in about an hour. What's the point of opening up without a kitchen? After a long search, we still found the only ones who worked at such an early time)
Beregovo
We drove for about three hours along the mountain landscapes. But unfortunately Beregovo was in Transcarpathia and the mountains soon became completely flat and remote. Yes, and with rides in Transcarpathia it was already more difficult. Having asked the driver of the regular bus to make a stop near the desired hotel, we went to check in. While we were getting off the bus, I was intensively talking to someone on the phone, and when I finished talking, the whole galaxy was spread out in front of me, small stars and constellations gleamed in different corners with flickering lights. I was completely insane, where did we wander? The guy happily announced that we had arrived at the Spaceport. I was not at a loss to specify exactly where our solar system is located, but the waiter said that this is not our galaxy. It turned out to be a bar, near the hotel, we went through the wrong doors. And so it turns out, once in your life you will make a mistake with the door and your house is billions of kilometers away from you. Basically, it was time for lunch. We ate like real intergalactic tourists. This time it was not possible to hitchhike the car, so I had to take a taxi driver. We were heading to the thermal complex, located in the city of Kosino, where the Bograch festival is taking place today and, in addition, The Hardkiss performs.
Kosino
After tasting the first strawberries, we quickly went to the complex.
It was very cold, the temperature on the thermometer was minus ten, on the clock - 60 seconds. At some point, it seemed to me that they would not end, my legs began to be bare and wet legs began to ache from the cold. A minute has passed! You can go back to the saunas. Running into the Roman steam room, I warmed up after an ice sauna for especially steamed ones. The contrast was still the same, Dasha did not dare to share this pleasure with me. There were about eight different saunas with different jokes, but I remember mostly those with a bunch of steam and the one where minus ten. With a sauna bracelet, we had 30 minutes free of charge, then a more noble rest.
Beer poured from a generous goblet, filling the thermal pool to the top and overflowing. There was a beer smell from the water, the atmosphere was at 100500. After the beer pool, we swam in red wine of a very good vintage, wow, the aroma was cool.
For special gourmets there was a pool with palinka (Hungarian fruit brandy), and to sober up - with coffee. From the sky, from a giant tap in the center of the pool, water poured under great pressure, and around there was an artificial circular current, on which everyone arranged races. The ticket price included a plate of Bograch, a sandwich and wine with soda.
We had a meal and back to the thermal waters. For three hours I didn’t even want to get out, especially from wine. Soon the group's concert began, which we watched "On the spot" - right from the pool. Their most famous songs ran to the stage. It was 16 degrees outside, but it was so much fun that it was really cool in wet swimsuits.
After all, at any moment you can run back to the warm wine. But something went wrong with the beer pool in the evening, the water there became so hot that I was afraid that someone would not boil the thread. It was so great that I didn't want to leave. This bath has clearly become the hallmark of this trip.
Back we were lucky to catch a ride, and we returned to Berehove for 40 UAH. We highly recommend the Kosino complex. An entrance ticket on a non-festival day costs UAH 300 ($12) per person for 3 hours.
Berehovo again
We all tried to squeeze in a wine tasting, but in reality it didn't fit into the schedule at all. In the morning we went to a restaurant that was made from an old casino. The meal was more like visiting the Louvre, which we have never been.
It was very shocking, pretentious, and really cool. There was also a red fish and some kind of Deflope with fiesta sauce with kacius seeds. In general, the glade was royal-pharaonic. It cost all the pleasure for two in 240 UAH. If I went into a restaurant as an ordinary tourist, then I went out like a knight with a bare torso on a white horse. In general, they turned gray effectively. Dasha still remembers with trepidation that chop with fried mushrooms (real ones, not some kind of champignons).
After the royal breakfast, we went to the thermal complex "Lark". There certainly was no such luxury with wine and vodka. But the charm of thermal water. . . We took a subscription for two hours, which flew by at the speed of light. In hot water, everything is so lazy, relaxed and unhurried. This is how our first half of the day went. Then, having refueled at the space station with chocolate dumplings with cherries and cream, we set off further on our journey.
Mukacheve
Since this tour was considered officially a gastronomic tour, upon arrival we went to the restaurant Tonal, which was highly recommended by our friends. We had to refresh ourselves, because in fact, we were at the space station about an hour ago, but in fact we overcame a light year while we traveled at hyperspeed in a shuttle ship. True, we got there somehow not quite officially IMHO. In any case, it seemed to me that way when the driver sat me in the trunk, explaining that it was necessary. While we were being transported, I felt like a Mexican with a long mustache who travels illegally to the states. A local guy in a restaurant installed a couple of stars on our tablet, and we hit the road. The castle was first on the way.
On the way to the castle, something very joyful and very pleasant happened. There was a couple in one of the streets. A man approached us and said that we were great fellows, he reads our travel stories that we publish on the Internet, and he recognized me by sight. That feeling that overwhelmed me at that moment defies description, it was like it was spring in spring. Guys, Dasha and I are really pleased that you are reading our stories: )
We soon reached the castle and hurried to join the tour group. The guide was a credit, the man clearly loved the history of this castle. About the castle itself, I want to say that it was quite interesting to wander around it. And compared to Tustan, the castle also physically exists here. From the castle we went to the city center. Where there was a long break lying on a bench. It was evening, GPS showed that not far from us there is an immense park. Since we love parks very much, the decision was obvious. Here I fell in love with Mukachevo. The river along the green park flows forward to the beginning of the mountain range.
The church with golden domes glows proudly in the rays of the evening sun on one of the high hills. Everywhere is green. From time to time we come across the same walking couples as we do. Some kind of festival was taking place on the right side, but there was less and less time before the train, and we tried to walk more and more through this beauty. I didn't want to leave the city at all. When the distance to the station was already quite critical, we were forced to turn back. Near the station there was a restaurant where our order was prepared immediately in take-out boxes in case we did not have time to finish the meal before the train left. And now we are already seeing all the beauties of Transcarpathia from the window of our carriage. I think that this year we will definitely return to the Carpathians again, three days are not enough for complete moral satisfaction.
