Anniversary among the Carpathian mountains
And the Arefievs' Manor is full again. Guests were received in the resort village of Slavsko. More than two dozen eminent masters came to the twentieth International Plein Air Painting “Maxim”.
Any event always starts with a road. But, if someone thinks that getting from Kyiv to Slavsko is easy, then they are deeply mistaken. Although, at first glance, everything looks very optimistic. Several direct trains. Including branded Transcarpathian. Refurbished wagons shining with fresh paint. Everywhere stainless steel and brand new plastic.
However, our railway cannot be without surprises. Unfortunately, passengers will find out about this after departure. When you can't get out. And landing on the go is somehow not handy.
It turns out that the air conditioner works exclusively at the request of the conductor. And for some reason, for the most part, it does not coincide with similar feelings of unfortunate travelers. In addition, this unit has only two modes - on or off. Or blowing with all the dope - or dead silent. And since the cars are made very high quality, without a single, even the smallest gap, the choice is small. Or freeze, or suffocate, covered with sticky sweat. In addition, a hurricane of air simply blows the top passenger off the shelf. It's impossible to dodge. Walking along the corridor with exits to the vestibule saves. And so all night. But, all good things come to an end sooner or later.
The regional center of Skole, these are already mountains. It's time to get up and pack your things. Although it is very difficult to do this - the train rushes and winds like a scalded hare. At the same time, it is not easy to stand on your feet. Especially when behind a rather large size and weight backpack. Finally, around the next bend, the train slows down and stops. All arrived, Slavsko.
The village welcomes you with the morning freshness of the mountains and a whole horde of local taxi drivers ready to take you anywhere. But this time they were not so lucky. The hospitable hosts took care and a powerful SUV is already waiting for the guests near the station. In these places, such transport is a vital necessity. On the other, you can simply not get there. One and a half minutes before the car, a few seconds to throw things in the trunk and you can start off. Although, how much that road is, maybe seven minutes.
But even this is enough to see positive changes. The street with such an original name Privokzalnaya is already fully tiled. On the school compound, the town of simulators sparkles with fresh paint. Added a couple of grocery stores. The main thing is that in a remote microdistrict the streets were covered with asphalt. Now no rain is terrible.
The gates are hospitably wide open, and the entire courtyard of the Arefiev Estate is crammed with cars. There is nothing unusual in this. Artists from Western Ukraine prefer to get their own transport. A black sheep among them stands out a car with Lithuanian numbers. The zealous Baltic people considered that it was much more profitable for them to get there.
The Arefyevs' estate has long been a favorite home, and its owners are good friends. And it's not even convenience. There is no need to talk about this, everything is on top and at a very reasonable price. The main thing is some unique truly homely atmosphere.
Although climbing the spiral staircase to the third floor with a backpack is still a pleasure. But the room is very comfortable. Large double bed, comfortable sofa, wardrobe and small table. Yes, two more bedside tables. Ceiling TV. And pictures on the walls. By the way, many tourists use them as a guide. By principle, I want to go where the old wooden hut stands on the slope.
By the way, the meaning of the word "plein air" literally translates as the artist's work in the air. This tradition, founded several years ago on the banks of the Seine, is now picked up by the inhabitants of Boikivshchyna.
We must pay tribute to the founders and initiators of this movement, Oksana and Dmitry Arefiev. It was in their house that the very idea of u200bu200bholding the plein air was born. The Arefievs, great lovers and connoisseurs of painting, were constantly visited by their artist friends. And just during one of these home gatherings, according to the words of the Lviv artist Orest Kosar, the idea matured. However, more than seven years passed before it was possible to turn the desired into reality.
But, this is not just a bohemian hangout. The creators were given the opportunity to get acquainted with the unique nature, culture and life of the inhabitants of the Carpathian region. The geography of participants was also extensive. This time artists came from Lviv, Boryslav, Cherkassy, Sumy, Poltava, Kyiv, of course, locals from Slavsko. And guests from Lithuania.
Every day the masters found plots for their works on the winding streets of Slavsky, on the slopes of the surrounding mountains or on the banks of local streams. And every day locals and ubiquitous tourists gathered around them. After all, not everyone has the opportunity to be present during the very birth of a masterpiece. And, of course, it was full of kids. Moreover, the masters held a master class for the children of a rural school. It was necessary to see how the eyes of little artists lit up, standing and drawing next to those whose names they could only read yesterday in their textbooks. They will remember this lesson forever.
It is interesting to observe how the Arefyevs' estate is gradually being transformed into a kind of art museum. Pictures hang, stand everywhere - in rooms and corridors, in the dining room and kitchen. Even the sauna is filled with paintings. And every evening there is a heated discussion of the work. After all, colleagues are the harshest critics. But surprisingly, as one of the organizers of the plein air, Lviv painter Viktor Stognut, noted, “For two weeks, creative people, individualists, have never even quarreled. ” And all this thanks to the friendly atmosphere, created primarily by the mistress of the house, Pani Oksana, “They liked to draw in Slavsko, they liked living with me, and I liked their work and themselves. ”
Pictures are drying in the yard, on the balconies and in the rooms. And in this, at first glance, chaos, a hidden meaning is hidden. Because everything is visible. And anyone can come and see at any time. Evaluate and express your opinion. Or give advice.
And one more touch. When artists from different schools work literally side by side, genres flow involuntarily. In more or less degree. Sometimes almost not noticeable. And sometimes it breaks. And there is something completely uncharacteristic of the author.
Now imagine yourself in the place of the guests living in this small hotel. Paintings hang in every room, corridor, everywhere. And many of them can be bought. So the estate of the Arefievs can rightly be called a kind of artistic and tourist center. And it is unique in its essence and spirit.
The uniqueness of the center lies in the fact that the paintings serve as a kind of guide. They are a great incentive for tourists who come to the Arefyevs to visit these places. Where else can you find something like this?
And not so long ago, another tradition was born in the Arefyevs' estate. The fact is that the walls of the dining room in the house are decorated with real river stones. And somehow one of the artists left his autograph on one of the stones. Just like that, for fun. But, the example found its followers. And now dozens of stones have their personal marks from the masters. Here is such a kind of walk of fame turned out.
I must say that such non-standard solutions are not uncommon here. It is not for nothing that many catalogs, newspapers, and magazines classify the Arefyevs' estate as an original holiday destination. And, in addition, guests have the opportunity not only to have a good rest, but also to see many amazing places. After all, Slavsko occupies a unique position. Around within reach is just a huge number of interesting objects. There is just not enough information about them. It's good that some other enthusiasts, like the Arefiev family, are trying to advertise their native land.
This time a new road, which is also the central street of the village, opened a new route “Along the Slavka River”. One of its main advantages is its all-weather capability. Rain is not a hindrance, it even gives a special charm to the walk.
New shops, cafes and obligatory rental points have appeared near the Polytech ski slopes. The hotel complex "Perlyna Karpat" stands by the road on top of a hill and serves as a kind of landmark for tourists. For those who return to the Arefyevs' estate, there is very little left, a maximum of ten minutes. For those who went on the route, the most difficult section is behind, then the descent and a flat road. By the way, you can enjoy great views of Slavsko from here.
The bottleneck on the road is a tunnel under the railway. First, you should be careful with cars. And secondly, if it rains, then there are obligatory puddles in this place. No, not like that - PUDDLES!! ! And if you are very “lucky”, you can thoroughly tarnish your reputation. But then there are no special problems.
The turn towards the station serves as a kind of route marker. It is here that the bridge over the river Opir stands. And about twenty meters upstream is the confluence of two rivers. In hot weather, every pebble at the bottom is perfectly visible. But when even the smallest rain passes, the rivulet, humble at first glance, turns into a roaring stream.
At the base of the hill where the local authorities have settled, work is in full swing. The slopes are being strengthened. Judging by the swing, they are going to build at least a fortress wall here. The golden-domed church is interesting for atheist tourists only as a pointer. But if you walk a couple of hundred meters up to the local cemetery, you can see an old wooden church. Assembled in the tradition of Boiko architecture.
Near the largest bridge across the Slavka River, even a viewing platform was equipped. And all because of the scattering of small waterfalls. A swift stream of water, jumping out from behind a turn, sweeps along this peculiar washboard and rushes to its fellow Opir river.
You can still see old wooden huts along the road. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer of them. Time makes its own adjustments. But on the slopes, like mushrooms after a good rain, new creations grow. And some of them are very interesting. In any case, not built according to the principle - the main thing is to have more than a neighbor.
Streets of paths descend from the road to the river, ending in a ford or bridge. You won't find two alike here. They build from what who can and what can. From ancient wooden on ropes to assembled from a military pontoon. A kind of exhibition of modern folk technical creativity.
And every bridge is a great vantage point. You won't find two alike. Only exclusive.
Gradually, the khatynki are replaced by a still forest. He comes close to the road. So who is tired of running to the river can climb into the mountains. At the same time, you don't have to go far. Beauty within walking distance. From time to time there are corners for rest.
Meanwhile, the road also begins to climb another mini pass. And around the next turn, the sound of falling water is heard. Which even the intensifying rain cannot drown out. It turns out that this is an ordinary spillway from a small dam. They blocked a small stream and formed a nice little lake with swans and obligatory fish.
And on top of the water surface, a net of a bear climbing frame is stretched. True, the toptygins have nothing to do with this. Just a little higher up the gorge is the hotel complex “Vezha Medvezha”. And as an entertainment, several rope trails are equipped. As the owner himself says, in order to pass the most difficult one, you must have training at the level of a sports category.
But there is nowhere to wait out the beginning of the downpour. It's good that compassionate guards are allowed to hide under the visor of the duty booth. And somehow I don’t want to come back in such weather. The problem is solved simply by calling a friend. In the sense of the Arefyevs' estate. And twenty minutes later, that same cozy and comfortable SUV rolls up. Time to rest.
The final chord of the twentieth international plein air "Maxim" was the traditional vernissage of the participants, which took place in the restaurant of the same name. And there were distinguished guests. And loud speeches were made. But the main thing is not that. The main thing is that the tradition is preserved. After all, in the same Europe, many popular resorts in the off-season host artists and art lovers. And, accordingly, a stream of tourists rushes after them.
