Crimea-2: parting was short-lived
In June, my husband and I went to the Crimea for the first time. For those who are interested, here is link to the story.
And now it's vacation time and we again decided to go to the Crimea! I love mountains, and my husband loves the sea, so Crimea suits us perfectly)) The nearest mountainous area is Sudak. That's where we headed. We also planned to visit the Royal Beach in the New World.
We decided to try to go by car. Before that, they had never traveled so far - almost 1.500 km. We got much longer than we imagined, because. there were a lot of traffic jams. Either road repair, or an accident... even on the M4 Don toll highway, which is up to Voronezh. The route consists of several paid sections, in total it cost 250 rubles one way (this is during the day, and at night it is cheaper). The speed limit is mostly 90km/h, and we thought it would be 110 everywhere.
So, we reached Rostov, spent the night in a hotel, and in the morning we drove on. It took 29 hours to drive with gas stations and snacks. + 7h. overnight stay = 36h! We waited an hour for the ferry to depart (the same amount was spent on buying tickets via the mobile Internet, because their website is wildly slick - buy in advance at home). Regarding roadside hotels, I want to note that by 23 o'clock all the rooms are taken apart by a bullet. We had to go around about 5 hotels - everything was occupied, so we should not delay the choice. The average price is 2000r for a double room. I advise drivers to take earplugs with them, because the hotels were noisy and you could not get enough sleep.
Moving around the Crimea, we booked a hotel in Sudak through the website krymroom. rf. They have a free number, we called and they picked up a place for us - convenient. We drove up to Sudak already in the dark, it was very dumb to drive along the serpentine, when the roads are not lit and there are almost no reflectors. And it gets dark at the end of summer already at 8 pm, mind you.
We settled in the area of Cape Alchak. The town is small and the center was not far from the map, but we did not take into account that there are many dead-end streets in the mountainous area and we have to go around in circles)) Our neighborhood turned out to be very dirty and smelly. I don't understand why guest house owners don't clean up trash near their house. In order not to be unfounded, here is a photo from Botanicheskaya St. (I can’t convey the smell of the canal):
The sea was also dirty. On the other side of Cypress Alley, closer to the fortress, it is noticeably cleaner. Half of the streets with a dirt road, which surprised us very much, after the very civilized Yalta and Alushta.
So:
August 22:
In the morning we went to the beach near Alchak metro station. My husband bought it, but I didn’t, because it’s shallow, dirty, the water is cool... There is some kind of smelly puddle nearby. Then we climbed along the path of the cape itself, it’s very beautiful there, you can swim near the stones, if it’s not scary))
In the evening we walked along the Embankment and Cypress Alley, which is the center of life for tourists. In general, there was an impression that life here is 15 years behind. Unsanctioned trade, child labor, unsanitary conditions in public catering establishments (for example, they take money and give buns with the same hands). On the street they sell cakes that stand all day in the 30-degree heat. The shops are also warm.
Tinted frets ride, from which merciless rap hammers)). What can I say, look at the name of one of the pubs:
Every cafe has very loud music, like in a disco, and all these places are crammed next to each other, a nightmare. And at the same time there are many vacationers with children. It was a pity to look at these sleepy babies, which parents carry on their shoulders until late at night. In general, we did not find a single decent institution where quiet music would play and we could relax. It is also difficult to find European cuisine (canteens do not count), everywhere there are only kebabs, pasties, etc. Everywhere these low tables in the oriental style, at which everyone sits with dirty feet after the beach.
August 23:
We decided to go to the Meganom Peninsula, to the beaches of the Kapsel Bay. We turned at the sign "Meganom Beach". There was a campsite, there were signs everywhere that it was forbidden to swim, and the views did not attract, some kind of clay and stones. To the right of the campsite there was a children's beach, and to the left, closer to Cape Rybachy, there were equipped beaches and several cafes. Sun loungers are rented, hot corn is served. . . everything is as usual. There were no less people than on the city beach, but we thought that this was a semi-wild deserted place))). The shore is pebbles and sand everywhere, also in the city. The water is just as dirty, perhaps because it was a little stormy. It’s cleaner at the main entrance, but sun loungers are more expensive, and there’s no way without them, because this is a very hot and arid place, the grass is all scorched by the sun.
After swimming, we went for a walk in the mountains. Meganom peninsula consists of 4 capes. I really wanted to reach Cape Meganom of the same name, which is shrouded in all sorts of secrets, they say this place has a special energy and adherents of various schools come there to meditate and conduct their religious rites. We walked along the path at the foot of Cape Rybachy, the sea nailed right to our feet. It's so cool, for the first time I walked along the sea and not along the beach) Natural nature!
On the way we met a couple of tents, as well as couples in love, romantically resting by the surf. The trail is dangerous in places, and clouds swirled in the sky, so, having climbed to the top of Rybachy, we decided that we had to go back so as not to slide into the cliff in flip flops.
August 24:
After waking up, we went to the New World. The MapsMe navigator led us to a place where there were no streets at all, or there was a brick, so it was difficult to leave the city. Further 7 km of a terrible serpentine and we are in place. We arrived at the end of Shalyapin Street, stood at a paid parking lot (50r/hour) and went to have breakfast. The first cafe that came across turned out to be a decent establishment, and we, as if from a hungry land, ate to satiety)) Then we went to the Royal Beach. There are 3 ways: through the juniper grove, along the Golitsyn trail and on a boat for 200 rubles.
We went through the grove. Both the grove and the trail are the territory of the reserve, the entrance is 100 rubles, the ticket is single and is valid all day. The entrance is through a grove above the parking lot, there are signs everywhere. But it turned out that through the grove it is not just to go along the path, it is necessary to go down the mountain into the gorge and make your way along the stones through the bushes. The path is quite difficult for the unaccustomed. By the way, you will also have to descend into the gorge through the Golitsyn trail.
So, we got to the beach. There is a sign saying swimming is prohibited, danger of collapse. Nevertheless, a lot of people bathe and boats swim up one after another)). Certainly! We are in Russia! Here the collapse will begin, then we will not swim). By the way, the beach was closed for some years due to the fact that it became very dirty. Now there are so many people that you look and they will close again. In the meantime, the place is really cool, the beach is made of bluish volcanic sand, which is why the water is so clear, many snorkeled. The fish are right under your feet, even near the shore.
We returned back by boat. We went to have lunch in some cafe, it again turned out to be very decent and we again ate to satiety, otherwise there was nothing to eat in Sudak))) After lunch, we went for a walk on the Golitsyn trail. We looked at Chaliapin's grotto, it's very impressive.
We went all the way to Cape Kapchik and back through the grove. There are even benches there, a cool place for walking and relaxing!
Then we sat in the park opposite the parking lot, went to the church of St. Luke, and of course it was a sin not to go to the champagne company store at the factory)). The plant itself is located in the same place where the parking lot is, next to the embankment. It hosts many excursions, the essence of which boils down to tasting and buying wine). We didn’t go, because we are indifferent to alcohol, and we are by car, and it’s cold in these basements - 10 degrees...
About 19 we went home, otherwise it will get dark, and go along the serpentine.
August 25:
Thoughts about Cape Meganom did not let go and we again headed there. We did not know where to turn, we just drove further than last time and turned onto a road with trees planted along it. We left the car at the foot and went uphill along the path along the road. The ascent was quite steep, and it was hot outside, so it was hard. When they climbed high, they saw that a lot of roads and paths lead to the mountain. We also saw Lake Bugas. The photo shows a view of the Kapsel Bay.
Meganom Cape can be recognized by the lighthouse that stands on it, and all paths on the mountain lead to it. Even excursions on quad bikes are organized in order to take pictures against the backdrop of breathtaking landscapes.
Then my husband began to panic, asking me where we were going and why, and if I had a self-preservation instinct)). I turned on the navigator and, do not believe it, he knows the paths on the mountain and began to show us the way))) So we got to the place.
On the way, we met a company of nudists sitting on the top of a mountain). We didn't see anything else out of the ordinary. There are military units on the mountain, fenced with barbed wire. And no one else, complete silence, which was broken only by flies). And we sat on the mountain and just looked at the sea. Then we saw how tourists were brought on quad bikes and decided that we probably didn’t go the easiest way, we had to turn closer to the lake. There is a spring not far from the lighthouse, we did not go there, but we saw 2 cars with people there. One of them was ten and she completely stalled and could not leave. And the jeep drove fine. We also read that there is a shop near the lighthouse, but we did not find it. Meanwhile, my husband’s knee hurt and he wanted to return home as soon as possible, so he couldn’t stay for a long time (. And I also wanted to see the lake, but apparently not this time. We returned the same way to get to the car.
In the evening, my husband seduced me to open a bottle of champagne I bought yesterday (New World, pink semi-dry aged, 540r). It tastes like complete bullshit. Of course, we do not understand, but it was bitter, and this should not be. In general, half was poured into the sink.
August 26:
Let's go to the New World again. The car was parked no longer in the parking lot, but nearby in the yards, where no one was disturbed. We decided to swim in the green bay. By the way, the water there is very clean and not too different from the royal beach. The only thing is that the entry into the water is very shallow. But it's good with kids. We even snorkeled there. Closer to Sokol, they say, deeper.
In general, the New World is a heavenly place, I want to come here again. It is quiet and beautiful here, and there is a place to take a walk (a bunch of mountains with sights), a clear sea and the smell of juniper all around! I'm afraid we won't find a better place in Crimea. But the prices are certainly more expensive than in Sudak.
August 27:
After waking up, we realized that yesterday we had a slight cold at sea (there was a cold wind). Because today was the last day of rest, we decided not to take risks and not swim, especially since the wind was just as cold. By the way, medicines in Sudak are very expensive, prices are 2 times higher than in Orel. Cotton swabs in a pharmacy cost 100 rubles per 100 pieces. I already rubbed my eyes, I thought I overheated in the sun).
We went to a local attraction - the Genoese fortress. We drove up to the entrance, we see a sign, they say, do not put cars. Then a grandfather comes up to us and says, they say, put it here, it's okay. Well, we put it, and then he says: “I’ll follow her, and you’ll pay 100 rubles. ”)) Well, okay, they gave him a hundred, anyway, otherwise I would have to put it in paid parking. We took tickets with a guide (200r), it was interesting. Then they walked around on their own. We climbed Mount Fortress, saw some more bays and beaches from it. There must be Turtle Bay somewhere, where the locals swim. We wanted to go there, but it didn't work out(.
August 28:
That's it, let's go home. We had little rest, but we had to go. We left at 6 am, slipped to Kerch without traffic jams. They waited for the ferry for 2 hours, because for some reason they loaded two ferries at the same time. Local seagulls found entertainment to see off the ferries. It was so cool to look at these carcasses flying overhead)).
In total, we traveled 26 hours, with an overnight stay 33. In general, I concluded that it is better to give the extra 10 thousand, but fly by plane and no nerves. And my husband liked it, he said that next weekend he would be ready to take off again by car)). That's it!