Golden Autumn in the Middle Dnieper or Repentant Confession of the "hare"
Still, good weather is a great incentive to travel! And an additional day off during the abnormally warm October is a guide to action! And here the most important thing is not to make a mistake with the choice. : ) We had a choice of 3 options of "nature with meaning": Alexandria Park in Bila Tserkva, Radomyshl Castle and open-air museum in Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky, which eventually won! ; )))
I learned about the open-air museum or, as it is officially called Museums of National Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper Region , thanks to a very respected and my favorite author of TP staruha_izergil , which 3 years ago took us to the museum , and since then the desire to get to Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky appeared in me with enviable frequency. And here at last everything coincided and we are already on the road!
The only trouble - we did not find the entrance! Although there are two of them, we did not find one! Yes, don't laugh!
I was preparing for the trip rather superficially, so we typed the address of the museum into the navigator and went - what is there to go to Pereyaslav. And everything seemed to be going well: they got to the city, drove into the city and even turned onto the right street. And then the incomprehensible ones began - the street gradually narrowed and narrowed, and when we got to the narrow bridge, where 2 cars could not pass (I and one were afraid to drive on it), it became very sad. Finally, we found ourselves on a paved area (in my opinion - a parking lot), where there were 5 cars with Kyiv license plates. So, we came as right. Only the entrance to the open-air museum, as well as the open-air museum itself, was not observed around. There was a lake, there were reeds, nature, in general, available…
And there is no museum - only a dubious trail along the lake and never mind!
A local man passing by said that everything was right - we will walk the path and in 100 meters we will be happy! I will not tire you with details as we circled the deserted village streets, which were periodically caught by local Polkans and Mukhtar, but here I saw a fence, behind which the roar of people's voices, laughter and cries of children could be heard - so the open-air museum was found! Now I would like to find another entrance ...And since patience is not part of my virtues, I, already in a somewhat boiling state, rushed along the fence and 50 meters later saw a path leading through the bushes. "Perfectly! Let's cut the way to the entrance! "- flashed in my head, I rushed through the bushes and ravines and fell out of the acceleration… in the yard" Estate of a wealthy peasant landowner "! ! ! ! ! ; ))))))))))))))
In general, I got to the museum "hare"! ! ! ! ! And it's awful!
And not that I wanted to save 30 UAH on the entrance ticket - I just did not find the entrance (both)! And I'm still ashamed! The only thing I can say to justify myself: I honestly went to all the museums I visited in the open-air museum on honestly bought tickets! : ) And I hope that the more people learn about the Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky Museum, the higher its attendance will be! And I hope not all visitors will climb through the bushes like me! ; )))
Slightly regaining consciousness and entering into unison with the idle citizens, we also began to admire and admire. Well, there was something.
We move to Prince Gorchakov's Hunting Lodge, which once provoked a heated discussion among TP participants when they "visited" it together with staruha_izergil .
Cute house, sculpture in front of the entrance on the spot.
And inside, as far as I can tell, without change. I was very pleased with the local chest of drawers - just handsome, I myself would not refuse! Although, of course, there are fewer rooms in my apartment than in the prince's hunting lodge. : ))
The Museum of MM Bernados, a talented author of more than 200 original inventions in electrical engineering and, in particular, the method of manual electric arc welding, was opened, but somehow was not ready to dive into science…
The Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts, located in the house of a petty nobleman, which I, on the contrary, would be happy to visit, did not work that day.
But the Museum of National Land Transport was opened.
And I got into my favorite activity - studying ancient vehicles, a great interest in which I woke up after visiting the exhibition once in Prague " Beauty in a Harness ". The local exposition, of course, was inferior to the European one, but it still pleased with the wheelbarrow ...
...fire truck ...
...a milk cart with symbols of the solstice, which acted as a talisman on long journeys ...
...as well as a holiday cart for solemn events.
Sleighs were also available - from simple wooden sledges ...
...to the closed sledges ...
...and elegant "visor".
Well, the most unexpected exhibit, the presence of which in this exhibition I can not explain - the quadriga chariot, which carried the Olympic flame during the opening of the XXII Olympic Games in Moscow in 1980: ))
Opposite the Museum of Transport in one of the churches is the Museum of Space. But it was also a day off on the day of our visit.
Just like the Post Office.
And the Cossack post is closed for repairs! : )
In general, as I understand it, it is best to come to the open-air museums on Friday, Saturday or Sunday - these days all the museums located in its territory are open, on other days you will be able to get inside only some of them.
Although here in the Museum of Bread, although it was closed, I was very pleased to see the bas-reliefs and paintings that adorned it. Socialist realism on the march! ; )))
Similar nostalgic memories were evoked by a number of these trucks in the square in front of the museum - shots of old Soviet films about the battle for the harvest and others flashed through my head.
But this handsome man is from earlier periods, although I was happy for him as a native - we saw a similar specimen near the museum in Dykanka.
Next to it is an even more rare thing - a British thresher, bought in the early twentieth century. one of the local, so to speak, farmers for 5 thousand rubles! ! ! ! ! Think about this figure!
For example, the salary of a cook at that time was about 8 rubles, teachers or paramedics - from 25 to 105 rubles, and some of the highest paid staff were, of course, deputies of the State Duma, secret advisers and generals - 350-500 rubles / month. But to buy such a unit, even they all would have to work hard! ; ))))
And so walking, we came to the official entrance to the open-air museum, near which there were cash registers, parking, a small bazaar, and people were there - how they all got there, remained a mystery to me. : ))
Of course, it is logical to enter from the official entrance - then the exposition looks somehow historically slender. Here you have at the very beginning the pavilion "Ancient stone monumental sculpture and burial chests" .
Near Late Paleolithic Site ...
..."Early Slavic Housing" ...
...Metallurgical Mines ...
...«Pottery kiln of the X century. ».
Only further reconstruction of the housing and communal complex from Kyiv Hem of the same X century with a nice carving on the gate.
Behind him is the reconstruction of rural housing measuring only 3.2x2.4 m - you can't walk around in such housing.
And there is also a church complex ...
consisting of the Church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin, built in 1606 at the expense of the local Cossack community ...
with a later bell tower ...
...and the church watchtower, which in its size is quite attractive to the yard of a wealthy peasant.
And in general, in the Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky open-air museum I was impressed by the considerable sizes of yards at all these houses and estates. It is unclear only, there is so much swing, because there is a lot of space near the museum, or is it the real size of the yard?
Well, with " The Estate of a Wealthy Peasant-Industrialist" everything is clear - God himself told him to arrange the estate more.
The landless man's yard doesn't seem very big ...But the mud planted with flowers adorns this impression.
But I was interested not only in sculptural groups and other household items related to one or another holiday ...
...how many descriptions of customs and beliefs. For example, you knew that the candle with which you stood at the Easter service should be brought home lighted (so special houses were built for them to protect the fire) ...
...and go around all the corners of it? My husband and I laughed - it will take us a long time to circle around our high-rise building with a candle! : ))
And how many prohibitions and signs are connected with the beginning of construction of a new house, it is impossible to list: it is impossible to begin in a leap year, it is impossible to begin on the day of remembrance of any martyr, it is better not to begin in autumn and winter. , you can't knock loudly (and it's on the construction site)! I have the impression that if you follow them all, you can stay without a new home at all. ; ))
In general, the Museum of Folk Customs was pleased, and we spent almost all the time that remained until the closing of the open-air museum. Therefore, the rest ran almost at a gallop. But some locations just can't be stopped - for example, "Gamazey" with a lovely lake in front of it. You also do not know what gamazi? And I didn't know, but now I'm smart: gamaze is a storehouse for storing grain insurance in case of crop failures or fires.
On the contrary, the "House of the Witch Doctor" can be seen. Well, why not a hut on chicken legs? ; ))
I'm not talking about windmills of different levels of security, picturesquely scattered throughout the open-air museum - everyone wants to consider, and some even climb. But time is running out!
The only object in which we allowed ourselves to hang for a long time is the Church of St. George (1768). Its bright blue walls shone very impressively through the exuberance of carmine and ocher shades of autumn leaves!
After it we go to the exit. Well, how to get out - to those bushes and ravines, through which we entered the open-air museum.
And not because we are vicious recidivists, but because we really understand: if we go out through the official entrance, we will be looking for our car for a long time! ; ))
But on the way we can't resist and admire such significant for the Ukrainian village (and modern city) objects as "Shinok" ...
...and "Inn". : ))
And I was struck by their difference in size. The inn is so much bigger! There, perhaps, and everything should be more expensive? ; ))) It's a pity we didn't get inside!
Of course, I would also like to visit the Museum of the Ukrainian Towel and the Museum of the History of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church , located in the Church of the Intercession (1774) - I would gladly look at the exhibits, especially towels.
So is the Sholom Aleichem Museum of Jewish Literature , I think it's a colorful place.
But we will pass the Village Council and the almost uninhabited Market Square.
Jerk through the bushes - and here we are near the car.
Summing up, I want to say that we really liked the trip to Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky open-air museum, it turned out to be unexpectedly interesting and interesting. And given how many facilities in the area we have not covered, it is clear to re-visit. But you need to come in the morning before the whole day to admire the local beauty and attractions for your pleasure and without haste.
And, as they say, "while the number was being created", the city of Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky was renamed Pereyaslav, so when traveling do not be mistaken with the destination! ; )))
П. P. S. And yes, there are 2 entrances! Bushes are not an option! ; )))
