"Ukrainian Penates". Kalinovka.
This story can be considered a continuation of the story of an excursion, which was conceived as a one-day visit to Trostyanets Park, Kachanivka, and the estate of Galagan in Sokyryntsi. I wrote about Trostyanets earlier, but Kachanivka deserves a separate story. In addition, I wanted to post photos taken on the tour, which did not fit into the story of Trostyanets. Therefore. Contemporaries called Kachanivka paradise or "Eden". It is also called "Ukrainian Penates", probably by analogy with the more famous estate of I. Repin "Penates" in the town of Kuokkala (now Repino), near St. Petersburg. Although, if you think about it, he moved there in 1903, and only after that it became a place where "everyone visited here", and Kachanivka was such a place much earlier. Perhaps Kachanivka became the prototype of the organization of "cultural" life in Repin's "Penates"? Here are the historical facts about Kachanivka: from 1771 to 1808.
Kachanivka was owned by Field Marshal Count P. Rumyantsev-Zadounaisky and his son. From 1824 to 1866 the estate was owned by the Tarnowski family of patrons. Then for 20 years and until the revolution of 1917 Kachanivka was consistently owned by sugar producers Kharitonenko, princes Urusov, Oliv. However, the flourishing of "Kachanivka" is connected with the efforts of the Tarnowski family - nobles who, according to official information, were descendants of the count's family. However, publicist Oles Buzina thinks otherwise, and wrote a very interesting essay about Tarnowski and Kachanivka, which is called "Tarnowskie: cultural pastimes of ancient" new Ukrainians ", Kachanivka was the largest estate in the Left Bank of Ukraine. The estate was famous for the hospitality and hospitality of the Tarnowskis, was filled with the "aroma of art", and still feels that this place is special, full of legends and beauty.
Gogol, Glinka, Perlin, Repin, Vrubel and Serov captured this place from time to time and honored the honor of staying here. Musicians, artists, writers and poets came and lived here for a long time. Shevchenko, Marko Vovchok, Gulak-Artemovsky, artists Ge, brothers Makivsky, Vrubel, Dobuzhinsky, Petrov-Vodkin, scientists Mykhailo Maksymovych, Dmytro Yavornytsky visited Kachanivka. Legend has it (or perhaps this is true evidence) that it was here that Glinka wrote fragments of the opera "Ruslan and Lyudmila", romances "Not chirping, nightingale" and "The wind is very loud in the field" in the words of poet Victor Zabila, and Gogol first read " Marriage". Another legend says that Taras Bulba was first read aloud in Kachanivka, possibly in the living room of the palace ...It is safe to say that it was here that Ilya Repin worked on the painting "Cossacks write a letter to the Turkish sultan", and the owner posed for him (Art.
Tarnowski Jr. in this picture in the form of a nobleman in a tall black papa in profile). VV Tarnovsky Jr. is also depicted in a portrait of the work of I. Repin, known as the "Hetman". This Vasily Vasilyevich is probably the most famous and interesting of the dynasty. A well-known lover of life, a collector who did not shy away from fakes. And now his collection of "Cossack antiquities" is in the Chernihiv Museum. But back to the estate. To understand that this is an exceptional place, it is appropriate to cite an ode composed by Glinka, Markevich and Sternberg in honor of the owner of the house: Poetry greets you with Harmony from feelings! Thank you art and bright painting light ...
And the poems that almost complete the Kobzar, dedicated to the daughter of the owner, Natalia Tarnovskaya (in whom Shevchenko was in love), are also very revealing: "Great Martyr Godmother! You are stupid and stupid! She grew up in a merry paradise, flourished in pink, and did not mature in a red paradise ...”A wonderful, heavenly place, a monument to“ gallant times ”and a real“ good life ”… There are not many left, but there are left! And it is recovering, so there is something to look at and where to wander! To this day, the palace, the arbor of M. Glinka, St. George's Church, romantic ruins - bizarre labyrinths. Empty Well tract with an air bridge, a steep hill of Love, a spruce planted in the XIX century, from which diverge five alleys. In general: Kachaniv ensemble is one of the brightest examples of manor architecture, created in the best traditions of world palace and park art.
Be sure to visit it, take a walk in the park and the palace, get full of impressions of the "paradise life", as it was and can be ...If you're lucky, you can meet on the alleys of the park and the ghost - VV Tarnovsky Jr. Terrible? No? Then especially for women information. As the historian Yavornytsky recalled about this patron: "Whether it was a beautiful and pliable lady or a simple sandal, twenty miles around Kachanivka, people said, there was no such beautiful girl who would not be in the hands of Mr. Tarnovsky. " So how? Probably, his descendants remained in these places ...Here, it is necessary to go with an overnight stay, and suddenly! : ). We were in Kachanivka, not for long, because the excursion (corporate party with families) by bus Trostyanets-Kachanivka-Sokyryntsi was designed for one day.
We didn't get to Sokyrynka, unfortunately… After Kachanivka and all the stories about "paradise life" we were fascinated by corporate parties in nature… Since everything went without accommodation, I can't recommend anything, except that you need to take care of accommodation in advance (if you want to stay) to have more time to "rest" (interestingly stated: ): ), and sightseeing. It's a joke - the area of .732 hectares, where most of it is a forest with trampled paths and a fifth of the area - a lake where there should be swans (we have not seen them). It seems that you can spend the night in the wing of the palace, but without much convenience. It is best to find out in advance - the Internet is at your service. Exactly one - Kachanivka Dentropark, located only 180 km from Kiev. Mileage of the route: Kyiv-Pryluky - 120 km, Pryluky-Sokyryntsi - 33 km, Sokyryntsi-Trostyanets - 9 km, Trostyanets-Kachanivka - 5 km. Roads are periodically "terrible", but you can drive.
The estate accepts from 9:00 to 18:00 daily. Entrance ticket costs 3 hryvnia! Excursion in a group will cost 8 hryvnias per person, and for an individual - 40 hryvnias. So do not deny yourself the pleasure - go on an economical mini-trip for the weekend! Need sneakers, sandwiches and water. The rest can be purchased if the desire arises. : ) And try not to forget to visit (if you have time) the surrounding attractions: Trostyanets, Sokyryntsi, Density. Photos of Kachanivka are attached for clarity. I will try to present them in the right order, if the moderator allows. : )
