Belgorod-Dnestrovsky. Wine Culture Center SHABO
The wind carries the salt of the firth,
Excavations of Thera behind the wall,
And the fortress of Ackermann breathes
With its ancient antiquity.
Two and a half thousand years have passed since the time when Greek ships from the ancient city of Miletus sailed to the lower reaches of the Tiras River, bringing on their boards settlers who founded a new colony here - Thira. Now, on the site of the former Greek villages, there is a provincial cozy town of Ukraine - Belgorod-Dnestrovsky. There were several reasons that prompted me to travel through the expanses of Bessarabia. Firstly, domestic tourism in the covid year is my trend of the season, secondly, I really wanted to see the unique floating ship - Vilkovo, and thirdly, there is another, no less interesting from the point of view of world history, tourist island on the Dniester - the city of Belgorod-Dnestrovsky. We only had one day at our disposal, therefore, we will have to devote it to the most significant objects of this region - the most ancient Akkerman fortress and the only Wine Culture Center in Ukraine.
The SHABO Wine Culture Center was founded in 2009 and recognized as the opening of the decade in the field of tourism, as well as being named the cultural heritage of Europe and included in the European map of wine museums. The question arises - why is the heritage still European? And to find out, we go to a unique wine-making complex in order to hear the history of its creation, learn the processes and scales of the production of a divine drink, see numerous workshops with equipment using modern technologies, wander through the labyrinths of ancient cellars, and, of course, get drunk with pleasure !
Inspired by the thought of the emerging cultural booze, beautifully called "tasting", we go to the village of Shabo, where the SHABO Wine Culture Center is located on Swiss street, 10. First, we buy tickets.
The cost of the tour with tasting is 360 UAH per person. There is also a VIP tour, but its price of 900 national banknotes somehow immediately reduces the degree of pleasure, therefore, having decided that the light version is quite suitable for us, we follow the path of least cost (although next time I will definitely choose the full version of the cultural enrichment, since premium wines for mere mortals are available here, and in addition, I will have the opportunity to visit the historical sherry cellars and taste real sherry, which is simply divine, let's not skimp on beauty and pleasure). Well, now, welcome!
First, we examine the territory of the complex:
In the process of getting to know each other, we will learn interesting facts. For example, that roses were planted near the vineyards in order to protect the vine from diseases. The fact is that the disease manifests itself on rose bushes 2 weeks earlier than on grapes, and thus the rose serves as a kind of indicator, and timely processing does not allow the vine to die. This is how roses save grapes.
There are many art objects on the territory. Improvisation of terroirs in a mini version called "Grape Garden", from which we learn about the most popular grape varieties for wine production.
The only monument in Europe in bronze “Vine”, because for a winemaker the vine is sacred . The author is the famous Odessa sculptor Mikhail Reva.
In the center is a multimedia sculpture "The Fountain of Dionysus", symbolizing the sacrament that the God of wine performs in a barrel, turning grape juice into wine.
The fountain is musical and interactive. When turned on, the multi-colored water spray will bathe your entire lower body, while still admiring the beauty of the color, the radiance of the spray, and the sounds of a beautiful melody.
Landscape composition Alpine Hill:
It's just the right time to take a walk through the green alpine meadows. Since the feet are still wet, you can even take off your shoes to complete the feeling.
And swim in the pond, however, having paid penalties after swimming.
Colorful, bright compositions create a sense of celebration and evoke positive emotions.
The entire centuries-old history of the emergence and development of winemaking is stored in the Shabo Museum, which contains a unique collection of various eras, from Ancient Greece to the present.
The columns in front of the entrance to the museum are not just columns, they symbolize the era of winemaking development. The first column, made in the shape of a vessel, is in honor of Georgia, a country with rich winemaking traditions (well, apparently because that the co-owner of the company is Georgi Iukuridze, it’s a shame that he’s not a Ukrainian, well, something like this…). Second is dedicated to Greece, who founded these settlements. Third column represents Turkey, for the Turks dominated this land for more than three centuries in a row. However, the most significant role in the development of Shabo was played by immigrants from Switzerland, therefore, as a token of gratitude, they installed a fourth column. Well, everyone already understands that the fifth column, lined with tiles, symbolizes the era of the USSR.
Even in ancient times, the ancient Greeks determined that the place located between the Pont Aksinsky and the Dniester estuary is not just beautiful, it has specific climatic features and a special composition of soils. And The god of wine Dionysius ordered them to plant vineyards here. And he himself still proudly sits on his throne and zealously makes sure that they do not violate the centuries-old traditions and culture of winemaking.
The museum has two cinema halls, where we were shown the most interesting documentaries about the development of winemaking in this region, from which we learned the history of the creation of the wine culture center, the stages of its evolution and flourishing. Two and a half thousand years of history…
In the Greek hall. . . in the Greek hall. . . So, let's go back to those ancient times, when the ancient Greeks in the 6th century BC. founded the city of Tyre here and began to plant grapes. Since the Greeks were famous philosophers and lovers of feasts, which they beautifully called "symposiums", they needed a special room for their amusements. For this, the men's room "Andron" was created, which was intended exclusively for men. Here they sat on their beds and entertained themselves with wine, philosophical discourse, music, games and sex. The task of the chairman of the symposium was simple - to mix wine with water in the so-called "crater"(vessel in the center).
Busts of the ancient Greeks who founded the settlement in ancient times:
Have you ever seen the monument of the Donkey, the most stubborn creature on the planet? But the Greeks immortalized him in a monument. At first they were very unhappy that the donkey was eating the vine leaves along with the vine. And then they noticed that the grapes after that grow even better. So they learned that in order to improve the fruiting of grapes, the vine needs to be pruned.
But the Greeks, as it turned out, did not come to these lands forever. Many peoples over the centuries have tried to seize the rich fertile lands of this region. The Ottoman Empire was no exception. In the 16th century, the so-called “Turkish period” began in these parts. And the settlement of the Turks was called “Asha-Abag”, which means “lower vineyards”, since the vineyards were territorially located below the city of Akkerman, as the Ottomans called Belgorod-Dnestrovsky .
The Turks grew different varieties of grapes, but among them there was one that still grows in Shabo and is considered autochthonous. This is the famous "Telti Kuruk", which means "fox tail" in Turkish. And to preserve the unique vines in Shabo, a special program has even been created, and you have the opportunity to try wine from an authentic variety.
But the exposition dedicated to colonists from Switzerland, who are considered here as the founders of cultural winemaking, evokes a special feeling. It was the Swiss settlers from the distant canton of Vaud who came to these lands, having overcome about three thousand kilometers of hard way on their carts. At the invitation of the Russian Emperor Alexander III, the Swiss botanist and winemaker Louis Tardentgathers his compatriots and leads them on a long and difficult journey to the unknown Asha-Abag. . .
Connoisseurs of viticulture brought with them all their simple belongings to start a new life in uncharted lands. The name Asha-Abag was very unusual for the Swiss and they quickly renamed it to Shabag, and then to a more consonant for them - Shabo.
Personal belongings of settlers (all authentic, a gift from the local history museum of Montreux):
Hats harvested with grapes:
The settlers lived separately, they had their own school, church, hospital, but the laborers were paid the same small salary as everywhere else. The economic miracle was given with great difficulty. But the Swiss have their own special motto, which I learned during my travels in this richest country of mountains and lakes. And it sounds like “Pray and work! ”. And it gave great results. Thanks to the unique characteristics of the region and the exceptional diligence of the Swiss settlers, this area has gradually turned into a real grape land. And the founder of the colony, Louis Tardent, wrote "If you want to see heaven on earth, then it is here. "
The Swiss were engaged not only in the cultivation of grapes, but also in other crops, as well as cattle breeding.
Although the main industry still remained the cultivation of grapes and the production of wine.
Special tools were used to trim the vine:
Life gradually improved:
And this is the kitchen. It should be noted that even then it was neat in a European way:
I was interested in various kitchen tools, it turned out that these were cookie cutters. Taking one of them in my hands, I almost lost my balance from the weight. Yes, people in those days were physically much more resilient than us.
At the end of the 19th century, the grape paradise reached its peak and plantations numbered about three million bushes. But then a revolution broke out and with the advent of Soviet power, the Swiss were forced to leave their homes. Those who could not or did not want to emigrate paid with their lives, this is how the Soviet state “thanked” the creators of unique vineyards.
The presented Soviet period of the exposition evokes a feeling of irony and bitterness. Here is the impromptu office of the director of the plant - bureaucracy, paperwork, and then the horrific anti-alcohol decrees of Gorbachev... Of course, all this had a detrimental effect on the development of viticulture and winemaking.
The legacy of the USSR, when posters were in vogue, telling us about the benefits of labor and everything else.
I am glad that in recent years the industry has begun to revive and is actively developing. And at the moment, the vineyard area is impressive - more than 1200 hectares, on which about twenty varieties of grapes grow.
The Shabo Museum, in addition to the upper expositions, will delight you with two hundred year old cellars:
Here, in oak barrels, the wood of which is carefully selected for each grape variety, the nobility of the drink increases.
Royal Hall, where Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin himself ate wine while writing another poem. I’ll sit down at the table and maybe I’ll be inspired too, and I’ll write something amazingly grandiose.
See the hole in the barrel? With it, the barrel was washed from the inside. A man who was very small in stature climbed there and cleaned the tartar from the walls of the container.
Once the king of Romania, Carol II, came to these places, he highly appreciated Shabo wines and left his signature on the wall of underground storages. That's why the basement is now called the Royal.
"Georgian Hall" and wine cellar. This hall is fully equipped with national elements of the life of winemakers, in the exposition we can trace the long traditions of wine making in different regions of Georgia, recognized as the birthplace of winemaking.
Exhibition of Clay Vessels:
Cornucopia is a symbol of happiness, representing fertility, wealth and prosperity. In Greek mythology, it belongs to the mythical goat Amalthea, who nursed Zeus, from whom the God of wine, Dionysius, was born.
Old moonshine still (no cooler):
Press:
After wandering through cellars, museums, expositions, we smoothly move from antiquity to modernity.
Currently, the company has been modernized and operates according to advanced French technologies, which makes it possible to create world-class wines. The entire production process is automated and currently only 10 people control it. Let's go see the production, since the factory works seven days a week and the doors of the Wine Culture Center are always open.
First, we inspect the SHABO Wine House and get acquainted with the production from the grape processing department to the aging department. The grapes come here directly from the plantations.
The technical equipment of the plant is considered one of the best in Europe. The latest technologies are being introduced
The cycle consists of grape processing, production of wine material, alcohol distillation, aging and finally bottling.
All steps of the technological process are shown step by step on the monitor:
The divine drink cools and matures in huge tanks.
The distillation plant produces alcohols of high quality.
I really wanted to see the stages of sherry production, but my light version of the tour did not allow me to do so. Sticking my nose in the door, I was immediately expelled from there by a vigilant guard. I can only say that in this sherry cellar, dry sherry “grows up”.
The time tour takes 2.5 hours, but everything is so interesting that the time flies by. And here we are in the wine cellar 5 meters underground among the barrels in the Crystal Tasting Room, in anticipation of the wine ritual.
The tasting includes 6 samples of SHABO products from the Reserve and Special Edition collections, of which I most want to try the autochthonous Telti Kuruk. But still, of all the samples presented, my favorite was Sparkling Classic Brut White.
There are 6 tasting rooms in the complex, each with its own twist.
Judging by the number of numerous awards and prizes, it is safe to say that Ukraine should rightfully be proud of its cultural heritage, because SHABO is the only company that has received the right to create premium wines of Controlled Designations of Origin (an analogue of the French Apptllation d' origine controlee).
And we, having probably bought half of the store of the Wine Culture Center, are in a hurry to the Cheese Factory, where delicious cheeses are produced using Dutch technologies, which I definitely cannot pass by.
But since we still have the ancient Akkerman fortress planned for inspection, we go in only run into the store, and when it comes to excursions, we fly like plywood over the capital of France. Having quickly stocked up on cheese delicacies, we continue according to the plan strictly approved by us.
PySy: I recommend buying Grappa grape vodka in the Shabo store, I already regret that I took a little, it is very soft and will be just right for girls. Cognac was ordinary, and did not cause delight in anyone. When we returned home and began to dismantle our trunk, we all just laughed together - there was: Danube herring in different variations, Vilkovskaya strawberries on top of the herring, wine - vodka arsenal bottled and in draft, wholesale and retail cheeses, and on top - dried pike , while no one could understand, and why the hell did we even take this pike when we have a dime a dozen of them in the Dnieper. But! The trip itself turned out to be very interesting, both in terms of cultural enrichment and peace of mind.
From the cycle of stories "Amazing Ukraine"
