Quarantine Cappadocia through the eyes of a Ukrainian tourist. Part 13
Start here: Part 1 < / em> , Часть 2 > , Часть 3 < , Часть 4 , Part 5 , Part 6 , < em> Часть 7 , Часть 8 , Часть 9 , Part 10 , Часть 11 , Part 12 .
The technical part with maps, links and summary of all series is located here .
Day 8. In the morning, after packing her suitcase, she rushed to the roof of the hotel to admire the balloons taking off.
The happy contemplation was abruptly interrupted by the bus driver, who shouted loudly about the transfer to the airport. Hmm, amazing. Arrived 15 minutes before the stated hour. I'm going down. Me with a suitcase quickly pushed into the van, barely trying to say goodbye to Nyavkalka))
Let's go. Does not let go of the feeling that something is wrong here. Well, not typical of Turks to come earlier. To be late - yes. Before - no. Suddenly I remember that there are two airports near Gorem. To me in Kayseri. But there is still Nevheshir. AAAAA, I'm not going to my airport ? ! The experience of the driver. Betrayal is canceled. He's going to Kaiser.
Forgotten passengers from our hotel start calling the driver halfway. Where they hid and why they did not wait for their transfer on the street, science does not know. And the driver was not confused, took me off the roof and took me to the airport. "What's the difference" who to take.
Option Turkish))
At the airport, the temperature is measured at the entrance, luggage is scanned and allowed on. The waiting room is small. Duty Free performances with a small kiosk with water and chocolate)) Let's go to the landing.
Aerial photography practice:
Izmir Adnan Menderes Havalimani . Long dock at Izmir airport. There are two options for further developments. Or sit at the airport with a book and wait for your flight. Or go to Izmir and explore the city. Another option immediately comes across the virtually insoluble question - how to get to the city and back.
In the peaceful age of evidence, this could be done in several ways. Private or municipal bus, Izban train, metro or taxi.
Now almost all options have rested on the binding of the transport card to the HES code.
Havas Bus . We need a flight ALSANCAK-KARSIYAKA-MAVISEHIR, stop Alsancak Bü yü , but due to quarantine measures do not have a permanent schedule and offer to find out in 24 hours by writing to them by e-mail.
The letter was written. Schedule received. Their last return flight is in the lunch area, which makes a trip to the city completely illogical.
Of all the municipal transport, the №202 bus HAVALIMANI - CUMHURIYET MEYDANI is the best. Here you can go to the final stop or get off at the two penultimate stops (it depends solely on your travel plans).
Any ticket or transport card must be linked to your HES code . This is where the main "buts" begin. First, the HES code must be valid for at least 6 months.
Secondly, to confirm the HES code to the ticket to the Turkish mobile number, a confirmation code must be received.
What to do for those who do not have a Turkish number and HES-code of publications only on the dates of the trip - remains a mystery.
I'm leaving the airport because I'll always understand going back and reading a book. At once I meet Havas buses. I do not have the flight I need, in addition, they work by the method of "recruitment", that is, until there is a certain number - do not go.
I wander in search of a stop 202 bus. To be everything, except the necessary)) I go in circles on different levels. I'm getting up. I'm going down. On the left. Case. I feel like Alice in the Mirror))
Finally! Just found a stop, the bus arrives immediately. I approach the driver to ask for a ticket. He waves his hand for me to sit down. About who to refuse!
The next hour of my life was full of rock paintings and attempts to explain that I was a tourist, I needed your clothes, boots and motorcycle ticket and downtown. The driver does not know English, so do the few passengers.
But everyone is trying to help))
As a result, I was sold a transport card for one trip (cost 10 lira), which was immediately validated. Even once it was agreed that I would be picked up at the same stop in the opposite direction. That's so hospitable kocheryzhka!
Ismir. Turkey's third most populous city, port and one of the oldest settlements on the coast.
The city of Smyrna was founded over three thousand years ago by the ancient Greeks. This was followed by the Byzantines, Seljuks, Maltese knights and Ottomans. The most tragic page of local history dates back to 1922.
Then the fire, which could not be extinguished for almost ten days, completely destroyed the Greek and Armenian quarters.
The fact that the Muslim and Jewish quarters escaped damage is still the main argument in the version of events of that time - the fire was not accidental and was aimed at getting rid of the Christian population of the then Smyrna.
Modern Izmir is a bright and contrasting city. Very contrasting. I would conditionally divide it into two parts. If you stand on the waterfront facing the sea, on the right will be a modern "Europeanized" part, on the left - the old town with oriental flavor, which has preserved monuments of history and architecture.
So we go out on the waterfront and go left, looking around. By the way, the total length of the Izmir embankment is almost 35 (! ) Km.
Fishermen meet at literally every turn:
On the street for 30 °, so I do not leave the question, how do they survive in such clothes?
Views of the Karsiyaka area. Its name literally means "opposite side". Here is one of the main shopping streets of Izmir, office buildings and residential areas. The area is connected to the city center by ferry and the Izban commuter train.
Mystery. Why does this man launch balloons? Below you can compare your version with reality; )
Azis Polycarp Katolik Kilisesi.
One of the seven churches of the Apocalypse of John and the oldest temple in Izmir.
In 155 BC, St. Polycarp was tortured by the Romans, and later the first chapel was built in his honor. The current reconstruction of the church dates back to 1620, when Suleiman the Great personally ordered to put the temple in order. Outwardly it looks very modest.
Not allowed inside due to quarantine restrictions. It's a pity, because there is something to see. Light took here.
Photo sketches on the road:
And the answer to the riddle of balloons on the water.
This is an improvised shooting range, with such colored targets.
Monument to the Sunken Ships:
A wide range of services and goods is presented on the embankment : ) green or rain, then apple, and balloons.
Where there is no shadow, they try to create it artificially.
Atatur rk (Konak) Maidani.
The main tourist square of Izmir. It is named after the governor's house, which is still here.
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Saat Kullesi (literally "temporary tower") is the work of French architect Raymond Charles Pere. 25-meter tower, built in 1901. in the late Ottoman style with Moorish motifs was presented to the inhabitants of the city by Sultan Abdulhamid, and the tower clock, which has never failed, is a personal gift of the Prussian Emperor William II.
Konak Yali Mosque . A small and elegant 18th-century Muslim mosque with colored tiles around the exterior windows.
It impresses not only with its size, but also with the typical architecture: the main room is connected with the minaret.
Kemeralti Bazaar is one of the largest markets in the country.
I walked literally along the edge, because the bazaar, in addition to its charms, contains so many professionally obsessive beggars and beggars that they discourage any desire to stay there.
The alley of flowering cacti caused children's delight. What a miracle for our northern eyes!
We continue our walk through the central area of Konak:
Local sleeping areas:
Going deeper into the old Jewish quarter:
Stairs, as the main "highlight" here. Oh, it's like living in a cloud without an elevator (
)Bicycle as part of the decor))
Watermelons are sold (I remind you, on the calendar - May):
The guards are asleep))
Asansö r. A brick tower with two elevators, built in 1907 to connect the upper and lower parts of the Jewish quarter.
Prior to that, residents had to walk up the 155-step staircase.
The system was designed by Italian and French engineers, and was sponsored by Jewish banker and philanthropist Nesim Levi Bayraklioglu (photo is not mine, took here ).
At first the elevators worked on steam traction. Then the city municipality restored them, and now they work on electricity. Tourists come here for the sake of the city's scenery from a bird's eye view.
Local young ladies also love photo shoots against the backdrop of the city))
I tried to see myself a few more flights higher.
And again I was filled with sympathy for the locals, one elevator is good, but here two dozen such elevators need to be built! And I didn't even get to the top ...
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I return, looking at the local flora along the way:
Embankment:
Any shadow immediately deals with vacationers:
Catch not only fish))
To the right, above the course, there are two more historical monuments:
- Agora . These are the remains of the ancient square of Smyrna, built by the ancient Greeks.
Contains capitals and Corinthian columns, the remains of three gates and fragments of statues of Ceres, Neptune and Diana. Temporarily closed due to quarantine. Photo from here .
- Fortress Kadifekale (literally "velvet castle"). Built in the III century BC. e. Lisimac was a general in the army of Alexander the Great, who later became king of Thrace and later of Macedonia. They write that this area is dangerous for tourists, so if you decide to climb here, be careful. Photo taken here .
Showcases, murals, monuments.
I find an unoccupied shadow and enjoy the sea view ...
Directly to the conditionally second part of the city, more Europeanized and modern.
People rest, settling right on the lawns:
I keep wondering - how are they not hot ? !
Cumhuriyet A g ac i Heykel i . The monument was erected in 2003 to mark the 80th anniversary of the Republic of Turkey. It symbolizes the national struggle for independence and contains bas-reliefs referring to Hittite, Seljuk and Ottoman civilizations.
K i br i s S strong > ehitleri. A popular pedestrian street with many shops, famous brands, cafes and restaurants.
It is interesting to wander here, turning into the alleys and looking at the local murals.
But times inexorably signal that the hour to get to know the city is almost over.
The number of people on the embankment has increased many times over!
Directly to the stop of his 202 bus. The driver recognizes me and signals amiably at the entrance)) The scheme of buying a ticket has already been worked out. The bus is half empty. I get to the airport by myself. The driver asks which terminal I need and trouble comes to the entrance. So by bus, as by taxi, I have not yet arrived at the airport))
Control. Ticket check. Universal waiting area. The shooting of the territory is interrupted by the shouts of the guards. Oh, this is something new!
When did we manage to ban photography in airport buildings ? ! But there is no point in arguing with armed men. So I keep the camera away from sin.
Chimchikuyu in the departure area. Coffee machines for 9
50 lira does not work, but you can buy the same coffee for 34 lira)) On the coffee topic chatted with a Turk. At airports, the "passenger effect" works well, when you can calmly and openly communicate with a complete stranger.
I will ask him about the local life. By the way, I was most surprised by the contrast in Turkey, when there are two girlfriends, one of whom is wearing shorts and a T-shirt, the other is "packed" to the eye. Why so? It turns out that this is not because they have different religions. No, they are both Muslim. But there are people who are fanatical believers. And there are all the others. Everyone chooses his own degree of freedom.
Izmir, in general, is not a city of orthodox Muslims. Here they indulge in a glass of wine for the holidays and do not rush to the call of the muezzin to five times daily prayer. For which, by the way, the President of Turkey does not like Izmir.
The locals also reciprocate to Erdogan because they do not accept his stubborn religiosity and the sultan's manners.
Muslims are allowed divorces. The child usually stays with the mother, but the father takes an active part in his life.
My interlocutor in Kiev has a woman with whom he has a long-standing relationship. But his parents are categorically against the official daughter-in-law of another nationality (by the way, the wife does not have to change her religion when getting married). The influence of parents on the lives of children is enormous. To go against the will of the parents is to erase from the history of the family and receive a curse for life.
In short, it was interesting.
Well, if I'm talking about people, then I'll add my subjective divinations.
Considering that this was my first visit to Turkey, I went with a whole bag of internal stamps, which are formed in an adult on those "somewhere read" and "someone told".
The disintegration of the patterns came at a time when I realized that it was almost impossible to distinguish a Turk from an average Ukrainian on the outside. Here you have blondes, brunettes and brown hair. Both blue-eyed and brown-eyed. Both pale-skinned and dark-skinned. This historical mixing of blood still plays a huge role.
It was interesting to know the traits inherent in us, Ukrainians, and in relation to the land, as in the anecdote about "here I will plant more cucumbers", and in the genetic freedom, and in the ability to circumvent stupid legislative initiatives (although masks on the streets they still disciplined wore).
And considering how I am smoked by the common address "woman" (I want to beat the sound) , the balm for the ears sounded local "lady" and "madam".
Measurement by adding strokes to the overall portrait (perhaps because of its not spoiled by mass tourism), showing people open, friendly and extremely contactable.
And while I was thinking about the tree, we took off. Tip, do not engage in aerial photography sprosonya))
Borispol. At the border control, everyone activates the application "Act at Home" (advice, download it in advance! ) And the countdown of 24 hours begins, which is set aside so that the tourist can get to the place of his self-isolation.
Next, get your luggage, get out and go up the escalator to one floor. To the left is a desk with consultants and questionnaires from several laboratories for PCR testing.
In May 2021, the order of prices ranged from 630 to 680 hryvnia.
Choose a laboratory, fill out a questionnaire, pay for a test. Payment either via QR code or via online banking. There is an option to pay in cash through the kiosk "Currency Exchange", but there is a crazy commission of 100 hryvnia for payment.
Go with the questionnaire on the arrow, there to check your payment and take a smear.
I took the test at night, at lunch I already received a message about the removal of self-isolation in the application "Act at Home".
On this long and I hope not very boring and in some places useful description of the Turkish trip is complete : )) Thank you for your attention!
П. S. I will make another technical part to make it easier for future tourists to navigate in this general cluster of letters.
