Quarantine Cappadocia through the eyes of Ukrainian tourists. Part 7
Start here: Part 1 , Части 2 , Part 3 , Part 4 , Part 5 , < a href = "https://www.turpravda.ua/tr/blog-478706.html"> Part 6.
The technical part with maps, links and summary of all series is located here .
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While walking through the museum complex, I note that there is no feeling of "wetness" of the place, which usually occurs when visiting old monasteries and temples. But when I leave the last church, I realize that I was wrong. There is peace and quiet inside me. No thoughts. No desires. No emotions. No usual fuss. Only endless peace and quiet.
I find a place to sit and enjoy life with a view of people and camels))
I eat coffee grounds, where to go next. Um, of course, yes, I know this, why it's something known in advance.
Climb above the museum complex. Another closed observation deck.
And a chair with views
On the right are the remains of a rock settlement
I see a pointer to another church. It seems that today the traditional wandering of the valleys is canceled.
Near the road grows a tree hanging with masks. I wonder, is it such an improvised dump or was the cauldron installation conceived as something more poetic?
Aynali ( Fi rkatan ) Kilise >. The mirror church got its name because of the symmetrical design and painting of the walls.
The ticket costs 10 lira. The price includes renting a flashlight to inspect the interior.
Determining the date the church was built is problematic. The plan of the basilica hints at the 500s. The style of painting (without icons and with many crosses) indicates the period of iconoclasm. And the resemblance to the chapel of St. Barbara of Goreme dates back to the 11th century.
Then there are various functional rooms: kitchens, barns, dovecotes and secret tunnels. So we take a flashlight in our hands and go deep into the church complex.
On the right in the tunnel we see a large round stone. This is an ancient "door".
When the guests who came to the locals were not very welcome, the entrance to the tunnel was quickly blocked by such a door. Moreover, they could be rolled back only from the inside.
I crawl to the second floor. It would be awful without a flashlight.
The dovecote was apparently located here, although some sources claim that the room was also used as an apiary.
Window to the outside world
Next is another tunnel hole, which can be climbed only in squats
The inner room of the church complex.
The photo clearly shows the general structure of such buildings: on the left entrance / exit (this is the same hole through which we climbed here), on the right "door" in the form of a stone that could be "rolled" at any time, thus blocking the passage of uninvited guests.
From the inner room there is a passage further along the complex, but it is closed due to the collapse. So let's go back the same way we climbed here. At the exit there is an improvised candlestick, where those who wish can pray and light a candle.
From the outside it is possible to see the part of the architectural ensemble that is no longer accessible for passage through the internal tunnels.
Reflections on why the locals made such low and narrow tunnels. Okay, I snorted, grunted and crawled once, but they "ran" so endlessly! And if someone crawls towards you, then someone, what, back to the exit? And how to move something from room to room? Maybe they were much lower than us? Am I so corrupted by the benefits of civilization that I ask unimportant questions at the time?
Let's move on
The town of Ortahisar greets me with a familiar picture. As it is in our opinion, at first to put a tile, and then to remember that it was necessary to change pipes to deduce water))
The area here is clearly not touristy, so I'm spying on "how locals live". The houses are very different.
Whether the Turks do not care about the external beauty of life, or the level of income of a particular street is so different.
As it turned out, I managed to get in and out of the city in such a trick that almost the entire busy and touristy part of Ortahisar passed me.
But another local "miracle" that feeds and employs many generations of orthohisars has been well considered.
No, I didn't confuse the photos. Pipes on the hill are ventilation systems of natural refrigerators.
Vegetables and fruits can be stored here for up to nine months, because the temperature inside does not change at any time of the year. And the cost of maintaining such warehouses is minimal. That is why both large companies and small farmers from all over the country store their products in Ortahisara. Photo taken from the middle of the underground vaults here .
Go to the main historical monument of the city - Ortahisar Kalesi . This 90-meter cliff, which locals call Sivrikoya, is considered one of the first "high-rises" in the world. In the Hittite era it served as a refuge for the caravans of the Silk Road. The Romans and Seljuks used it as a fortress in the early warning system when exchanging signals with the bastions in Uchisar (we finished there after passing the Dove Valley) and Urgupi.
Somewhere here I got lost again.
How can you lose a 90-meter landmark before your eyes, you ask? I don't know, but I did it))
The alternation of contrasts becomes especially obvious
I feed the locals - where is the way out? They happily explain. Turkish. But they wave their hands, so I turn in the right direction. Shout something again. Yeah, not there. They delegate to me their representative, who knows only "ah lavyu, ai nidya" from English, which accompanies all his comments on the movement further))
Climbing Ortahisar Kalesi costs 5 lire. Lisa.
To the right in the frame is the second largest fortress of Ortahisaru - Ishak Kalesi.
It is 54 meters high and dates back to the 10th-11th centuries.
Researchers believe that at one time both city bastions were connected by an underground tunnel.
Another of my nightmares (another, after a stitch on the slope of the Honey Valley) was these "spring" stairs. The wind is blowing, the abyss is below, the metal structure creaks menacingly. Brrrrr.
Suddenly I would not repeat this feat))
And from the observation decks above the spaces, even with beautiful views.
Then there are the stairs leading up, but the Turks hung a clear instruction "dangerous, no entry". So I go down and find myself on Tepebasi Meydani .
Simultaneous cat feeding session
Ethnographic Museum in a 1933 mansion.
Alcohol shop installation
Local cats even have separate entrances / exits from the house))
Then I go somewhere wrong again, wander for a long time and find myself out of town. Hmm, it seems that someone urgently needs to take the internal compass for repair))
I traditionally spy on the locals in the town
The trail is wonderfully crowded.
Some walk, some work on the ground. Everyone greets me, asks where I am from, wishes me a good rest. I'm fishing for deja vu. The road winding beyond the horizon is friendly and welcoming. The only thing missing is a backpack over his shoulders and a wish for a good Camino))
We are already familiar with the landscapes of the Valley of Love-2
Looking for a descent. It turns out to be quite gentle, so you can go down with your feet, but not as usual))
Meow at the battle post, looks like guests with delicious food))
Tomorrow the balloons will not take off again, the weather forecast promises another rain. Somewhere at this stage, I went through all five stages of acceptance, went to the last. Surrender to what you can't control. Maybe that's what their muezzin calls for so insistently every day? ; ))
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