1996-2005
The author is Pasha from Odessa.
Winter is coming and I thought, why not talk about Slovakia, where I have been 5 times? So, the first time I came there was in the 1996-1997 season, and the last time in 2004-2005. The first time (and the last) I went from a travel agency, stayed at the Wili Hotel in Tatranska Lomnica, and the next 4 times I went myself and stayed at a hotel whose name I won’t tell you. I will only say that it is located in the Smokovets area.
I love Slovakia (why would I go so many times), and I know that almost everyone who gets there loves it. I have seen people who have been there 15 times already (i. e. how the curtain opened, they started to go and continue). For us the most real, intimate and great skiing holiday!
In the High Tatras (and I was the only one there) there are 3 main ski areas: Strbske Pleso, Stary Smokovec and Tatranska Lomnica (from left to right). Between them there is an electric train (essentially a tram), very convenient, strictly on schedule.
Attention: you need to take a train ticket in advance, there is a conductor at the station, in the train, but if you take a ticket from him, he also writes you a significant fine! You can go by bus, taxis go (expensive). There is also the Zdiar zone, but it is far away, I have never been there. Where to settle? Often I hear a question that gives out in a questioning kettle-skier: “And how many meters from the hotel to the ski lift? » No, there are hotels that are located right next to the ski area, for example, the FIS hotel in Strbske Pleso. But even in such a place as Strbske Pleso (the best place for skiing in all of Slovakia), you will ride for 3 days, and that's it, you will get bored. Therefore, I am located, in the center, in the Smokovec area, from where I can travel to different places every day. By train from Smokovec to Strbske Pleso - 30 minutes, another 10 minutes on foot to the track or on a free ski-bus.
Attention: in Strbske Pleso there is no pistes for beginners as such. There is a children's track.
The track for beginners is the famous, wide, short track at the very beginning, but if a beginner drives up, he will become scared and will not go down without a couple of somersaults.
There are 2 tracks in Smokovec: the main one, where the tram goes up, and 400 meters to the left, for beginners, on which in 1996 I started skiing for the first time.
In Tatranska Lomnica, they take you upstairs in cabins, you need to get off at the Start station (higher, only if you are a super duper skier). There are 2 branches from the Start, so one of them is just for children, you still have to work with sticks to roll. There are no cannons in Tatranska Lomnica, the track depends solely on the weather, so often, in many places it is not very good. The track may be closed due to wind or fog. But in Tatranska Lomnica you can climb to the very top, to the top of the Tatra Mountains. Beauties! The whole valley and the city of Poprad, as in the palm of your hand, as from an airplane.
From the upper station there is a trailer for 15 people. Over the abyss somewhere 1 km. Stay at the top - 30 minutes, enough time. I recommend going early to avoid the queues and the weather should be clear. In general, if you live in Tatranska Lomnica, then you can’t avoid trips to other ski areas, and if it’s not far from Smokovets, then it’s not close to Strbske Pleso (by train with a transfer - an hour. )
In November 2004, there was a terrible hurricane in the Tatras, I saw the consequences. The trees were all side by side, as after the Tunguska meteorite. Unfortunately, Smokovec, where my hotel is located, suffered the most. The most beautiful view is completely destroyed. In the direction of Strbske Pleso, the hurricane passed to the Vyshne Hagi station. Strbske Pleso was practically unaffected. Tatranska Lomnica was half damaged, but it can be said that the forest was preserved there. I haven't been for 3 years, I don't know how they ride in Smokovec.
It was said that since this happened, why not make another ski area. Ecologists were against it.
Prices for lifts, rentals are growing, but still, I think this resort is from the category of cheap ones. In Slovakia, I usually rented equipment for the entire stay on the first day, a significant discount. Every hotel has a place for storage, the train has a place for transportation. The minus turned out once, when, while skiing in Pleso, my ski edge broke, I had to finish skiing and go to Smokovec to change. By the way, in Smokovec there is an excellent rental at the bus station, otherwise I regularly see people (ours) crowding in line for rental near the ski lift. I once heard smart people who complained that we stood in line here for 3 hours yesterday. I ask, what are you doing today? “So we passed yesterday !!!!?? ? ". Hahahahahaha. Such people will come home and write how they did not like Slovakia.
I did not stand in line, but went down 200m to the bus station, as I already said.
Queues are observed somewhere from December 30 to January 6. Then everything. The locals are leaving, and ride yourself. And then, the queue is about half an hour in Strbske Pleso, and there is a lift at the top (it doesn’t always work). There is also a hut upstairs where you can eat. I dined at the FIS Hotel - they have some kind of fixed price set meals. Last price, cat. I remember - $6. FIS has a swimming pool and a gym, and a sauna, after skiing you can immediately go there. FIS has a storage room where you can leave your boots and skis if you know that you will come here again tomorrow. There is also a storage room next to the toilet.
Who needs an instructor - there are plenty of Russian speakers, men and women. But you need to negotiate and pay the day before. The instructor is expensive, but it's better to take a “private” for 1 day, then learn. In groups, the process takes longer.
To avoid queues, you need to be the first on the track. The lifts start operating at 8:00.30 min. Rentals from 8. I got up no later than 6 o'clock. 30 min, have a quick breakfast and take the train. And what do you want, I came to ride. It must be said that in Slovakia there is practically no such concept of aprè s-ski. Rest resembles a sports camp, getting up early in the morning, skiing, washing and sleeping. I like it!! ! Quiet and peaceful. I heard once that somewhere there is some kind of disco, but where is it, and is there one at all? . . No, in my hotel, there is a room for games, there are water procedures, there is a sauna, there is a crust. tennis, this is the evening rest. There is also a bar, open until 22:00. Super! Whoever wants to move, fuss and parties, the road is straight to Zakopane!
Another entertainment is a trip to Poprad. I took a day off from skiing and went there to go shopping. By the way, if you don't have ski clothes, you can buy them there cheaper than here.
I recommend the Czech company Hannah, very high quality and cheap. I don’t have my own skis and boots, because I still rarely ski and go far.
I used to get there mainly by train Kyiv-Bratislava, the minus was - the night arrival and departure from Poprad. But now, like this train is gone. Exotic - changing wheels in Chop. People have jobs. And then I dug up the Uzhgorod company Sodis, they organize transfers to the Tatras. Time - 3 hours, if everything is fine at the border. There is a direct train to Uzhgorod from Odessa, but you need to buy a ticket in advance.
I like everything in Slovakia. I like the waiters, as if they were taught in the same school. They walk in an arc, they work artistically, the movement is obsequious and full of dignity, they get money so beautifully. Everyone is very friendly. Not only the staff, but just all people. For them, the tourist is a sacred cow.
I remember how, even on my first visit, the girl at the reception flew out of her room like a bullet with a huge, huge smile when I was just going down the stairs. And somehow the stove broke and breakfast was delayed for 15 minutes, so the waiter opened all the doors in front of me, apologized, went outside into the cold (and it was -20) in a shirt and continued to apologize. I didn't know how to calm him down. In 1996, the main customers in the Tatras were the Germans, everything was tailored for them. Now the main ones are us, somewhere it may have become worse because of this, but the level has remained. By the way, despite the relationship, the Slovak language is sometimes very difficult to understand, so knowledge of English or German will not hurt. In 1996, our women skied in coats, pants and hats with earflaps, and our women in high heels and expensive fur coats walked along the ski slopes, terrifying, probably even bears. Now everything is decent, and you can’t tell ours by their clothes, only by their face.
It happens, probably, badly in Slovakia, when there is a completely snowless winter. I was lucky, I didn't hit. Since there isn't much to do there besides skiing, this can be a problem. At the same time, the main slopes are equipped with cannons, snowcats, etc. I heard that there is such a ski area in Slovakia - Krompachy, where snow is guaranteed. I haven't been there, I don't know.
I recommend Slovakia to everyone, everyone, a place where you are drawn to, where you want to return.
If you have any questions, please write to me at odessos@ukr. net
Pasha from Odessa.