The land of blue lakes and emerald forests in the Muezersky district of Karelia
Land of lakes and emerald forests
(Karelia, August - September 2014)
Traditionally, for several years in a row, we spend part of our holidays in our Karelia. 2014 was no exception. Having visited many corners of this wonderful region, we were in the village of Peninga in the Muezersky district for the first time and we never regretted choosing a place to stay! We would like other tourists to like our positive impressions!
Why did the choice fall on the village of Peninga and, in general, on the Muezersky district? Well, firstly, this place is completely new for us, and secondly, there is very little information about the village and its environs on the Internet, and everything new and little-known attracts like a magnet. We are three adult eco-tourists from the Leningrad region, engaged in photography, history, "silent hunting", etc.
So, here it is that wonderful mood, when there are a few minutes left before the departure of the train St. Ladozhsky railway station in the afternoon and arrives in Peninga early in the morning, which is very convenient in principle - you have the whole day ahead of you.
We are greeted by a warm caressing Karelian morning. The train stops at the station for 2 minutes, the door opens on the right along the train. We manage to unload all our things and say goodbye to our guide, wishing each other a happy journey! Since we are big lovers of wildlife, the words from the song “...I’ll get off at the far station - waist-deep grass ... ” - this is what we need! Running a little ahead, let's say that we were met by a very hospitable host Vladimir, with whom we agreed on everything in advance.
Pening station itself is very small, clean and well maintained. On the one hand, there is a lake nearby, and on the other hand, there is such a lulling swamp, overgrown with such grass that it seems that someone has spread a soft featherbed and forest, forest, forest - it is everywhere! Clean air compresses us in its arms and silence ...!
The village of Peninga is located 5 km from the station of the same name. A large number of small forest peat and much larger lakes, lambushkas are scattered around the village, and rivers flow. Peninga itself is located between the lakes Coverolampi and Tervalampi. But Lake Peninga, with which the name of the village is associated, is located about 12 km from it. The Peninga River also flows out of it, which does not approach the village, but quite the opposite - it flows in the opposite direction from it. The village of Peninga got its name, apparently, by the name of the area.
In 1960, the construction of the village of timber merchants began, who were to develop the forests of the then Rebolsky district. The forest fund in this area is quite difficult to develop, as it was scattered over swampy areas with a large number of lamps and stone ridges. In 1963, the Volomsky timber industry enterprise was established, the center of which was the new village of Peninga. In addition to logging, the timber industry and the inhabitants of Peninga were engaged in the production of tare boards, jellied riveting, produced sleepers for broad gauge railways, technological chips for the pulp and paper industry, extracted resin (pine tree resin, which was used to produce turpentine and rosin). In 1966, the Muezersky district was formed, which included a young, but rapidly developing settlement.
Peninga today is a small but cozy and hospitable village!
Of course, there is not that large-scale scope of activity, but there are people who live in Pening, who in their own way value their past, live in the present and, like all of us, make our plans for the future. Yes, many social facilities have been closed, many houses have been emptied, and much has been destroyed. But the school is functioning, there is a paramedic station, there is a kindergarten, a post office, a savings bank, several shops (food, household goods). In the village there is a mass grave of Soviet soldiers who died during the Great Patriotic War, in which Captain Zemlyansky G. F. is buried. The inhabitants of the village are very friendly and sociable. With whom we did not have to communicate, everyone treated us with hospitality and understanding. They told us about their life, about the surrounding area, gave practical advice on how to lead and where to go in the forest, and there is a real taiga in the district! They told us where to fish and where there are more mushrooms, but they are everywhere and different!
The stores advised which products are better to choose and which bread is tastier! By the way, about shops. Tourists do not need to worry, shops are open daily, they have everything you need, the assortment is not St. Petersburg's "OK", but it's not worth dragging food in vain if you can buy it on the spot (we won't repeat such a mistake in the future, but the host party told us about it! Yes, you can buy the famous "Karelian Balsam" as a gift in stores and choose stronger local drinks).
On forest roads, when we slowed down a passing car, the drivers stopped and drove us to the village. The operating operator of communication in the settlement "Megafon". The nearest settlement in 30 km is Voloma, in 60 km is the district center Muezersky.
It is impossible to describe all the Karelian beauty of nature in words!
How many tourists admire this land of fogs and silver dews, this blue-eyed side, reserved taiga, sunrises and sunsets, white nights, picturesque shores of lakes! All this applies to Pening! Treat yourself to this Karelian corner and you will never forget about it! The atmosphere of primitiveness and beauty opens in the village itself. Peninga is located on a hilly area between the wonderful lakes Coverolampi and Tervalampi. Many houses of residents are located near the picturesque shores of these lakes. Wooden bridges go deep into the water surface and it seems that small rafts are sliding on its surface. The lakes are interconnected by channels, which is convenient for fishermen and rafters. One of the channels flows into Lake Havgajä rvi and then through small reservoirs you can go to Lake Voloma. On the western shore of this lake, you can find a parking place and make a hike to the Lysaya mountain to the height of Kupinas (409.
7 m), from which untouched nature opens: a plateau at the very top, a gorge, reservoirs, beaver dams, sheer cliffs. By the way, the height of Kupinas is only 7.3 m less than the famous Mount Vottovaara. It is about 6 km from the village to Lysa Gora, but the passage is almost inaccessible directly, but this is not what it is. As the people say: “a smart person will not go uphill, a smart person will bypass the mountain. ” To the north of Bald Mountain is the most beautiful lake Kupinasjä rvi. The places are really amazingly beautiful and environmentally friendly. Organized tourists are rare guests here, there are no paved hiking trails and routes. Only rafters, fishermen, hunters or even “wild” hiking eco-tourists can please themselves with such a pristine and reserved nature. From all sides the village is surrounded by magnificent forests. Here you will find quaint pines, proud firs, our Russian birches with mountain ash, etc. - hence such an abundance and variety of mushrooms.
The year was not rainy, but we picked mushrooms like daisies in the field! They were taken home in all variations of cooking! This is a paradise for "quiet hunting"! During our holiday it was blueberry and lingonberry season. We do not forget the taste of ripe, fragrant berries! And it doesn’t matter at all that you have a Chow Chow tongue and berry juice on your hands from blueberries! If you don’t want to pick berries yourself, you can always negotiate with the locals and they will always respond to your request with kindness. All the gifts of nature can be collected near the village, or you can walk through the fairy forest and further - it all depends on your desire, mood and readiness! In the forest, many paths, paths - "mustache" (as the locals call them) break off abruptly and therefore, when going to the magical forest, do not forget to take navigation aids and everything you need with you.
Walking through the forest you will meet huge boulders, larger than your height, as well as various stones with a bizarre color. The variety of lichens and mosses will captivate you with its beauty and unusualness. Such endless forests imply the living of wild animals in them. But we did not meet the owner of the taiga bear. We saw hares, heard the noise of capercaillie, observed swans and ducks on the lakes, met various traces of droppings. In the forest, although with regret that we break the silence, we walk quite noisily. Maybe it looks ridiculous, but from time to time there was a powerful whistle in the mouth, the constant rattling of bells, etc. But the animals were aware of our stay in remote places in advance! We were also lucky with the weather, it rained a few times, but mostly it was comfortable. At that time we even swam in the forest streams. Channels flow near Peninga, they are fabulous. It seems that Alyonushka herself from the painting by V. M.
Vasnetsova was decommissioned from these places. Mosquitoes and midges during this period are much less, although for the sake of objectivity we will say that we always wear mosquito nets. This is a habit that has been developed over the years not only from mosquitoes, but also from ticks, spiders, cobwebs, etc. There are also many swamps in the district with their diverse flora. Some are like soft, fluffy blankets. Others are immense to the eye with blue ducts, others are strict. You can write a lot about fishing in these places! It all depends on the season, on your skill and on lady luck! In our period perch and pike were caught. From those wooden bridges, which are written above, perches were caught without any experience on an ordinary worm, on the most ordinary fishing rod and at any time of the day! Moreover, they did not have time to string the worm on the hook, they pulled out the fish one after the other! It will be real fun for your kids! Well, for your men, serious fishing is on the lakes from a boat!
Go for it and you will be pleasantly rewarded! If you are planning to go to Chias, then from a height of 293 m you will have a magnificent view of Lake Chiasjä rvi. Looking through binoculars or without it, you will feel like a bird and see all the surrounding beauty from a bird's eye view! The blue of immensity will conquer you! "...Karelia, like a woman in beauty, blue-eyed in a green sundress ... "! If you drive from the village of Pening through Voloma to the regional center of Muezersky and periodically stop along the way, then the above written words from the song will become the reality in which you find yourself. In the village of Muezersky you can visit the temple in the name of the icon of the Mother of God "The Tsaritsa". In this temple there is a list of the icon of the Mother of God "The Tsaritsa", acquired and delivered by a group of pilgrims from Mount Athos. The warmth of the temple, humility, isolation from the hustle and bustle, peace of mind, faith and love for your neighbor you will find here.
The Lord God and the Queen Herself will keep you! You will absorb that charm, that mysticism, that fullness of spirit, everything that this amazing corner of Karelia has so generously endowed us with! I want to come back here again and again, these places are idolized and adored!
We would also like to express our sincere gratitude to the host country. This is a wonderful family - Sokolov Olga Vitalievna and Vladimir Nikolaevich! This is a friendly, friendly, modest and hospitable family! We got acquainted with them in absentia 2 years before our arrival to them at the suggestion of a wonderful person from Moscow - Konstantin Petrov. At one time, we were looking for people dropping tourists in the Muezersky district. And so, by chance, Konstantin gave us the coordinates of Vladimir Sokolov and expressed the hope that we would become friends with Uncle Volodya ...And we really became friends !! ! The great thing is the Internet!
This family in the village of Peninga has a floor of a house with a separate entrance, in which you can live on your own (the owners live at the other end of the village). Everything is set up for your positive holiday. The house has three rooms, a kitchen with appliances, a fully equipped bathroom with hot water and a shower. For those who are interested, there is hot water around the clock, if you don’t want to heat the stove in the kitchen, then there is an electric stove at your service. If necessary, there is a stove that perfectly heats all three rooms (and how pleasant it is to sit in the evenings, watching the burning fire in the stove! ). The rooms are fully furnished, there is an excellent library, satellite TV. The hosts will provide you with a complete set of bedding, towels, etc. There are containers for processing forest gifts. On the veranda you can chat pleasantly over a cup of tea.
The adjoining plot is quite spacious, there is a parking lot, a barbecue, a smokehouse for fish, a summer kitchen, a bathhouse, a well with delicious water (we drank it raw and significantly healed our stomachs), etc. The plot is well-groomed, you can safely walk barefoot without worrying about your health. Olga and Vladimir allowed us to use their landings, for which we are very grateful to them. Wild mushrooms grow on the site itself, we watched their growth with pleasure. And also many thanks to Olya for her delicious pancakes, which she treated us to. And the bath! Oh, this well of health! Spacious, bright, warm, safe...so furnished by Vladimir with love! Firewood, harvested by the owners, different, already chopped and ready for use! There is a spacious new rowing boat launched next to the site! You can use it at least day and night without additional payment. In the future, the purchase of a motor.
Yes, I completely forgot to write about the most important thing. The site comes to the very edge of the lake! From the veranda of the house you will contemplate the lake and the forest! All sunrises, fogs and sunsets are yours, get your photo equipment ready! The hosts will meet you and take you to the train. If you are backpackers like us, then Vladimir, at your request, will take you wherever you want. It will also show you the most interesting and beautiful places in the area. At your request, he will be able to take you to the famous excursion routes - there would be a desire! There is an opportunity to organize fishing, hunting, to visit the lodge in the deep taiga. This vacation in Pening is suitable for everyone from serious lovers of fishing and hunting, for families with very young children, for romantics and young people! For days on end we were lost in the fresh air and in the evening we simply fell on the bed from an excess of emotions. Two weeks of our vacation flew by in an instant.
We didn’t manage to do a lot of things and of course we didn’t see everything, but is it possible to do everything in less than 14 days! But having visited Peninga at least once, you will take with you a lot of positive memories, a great mood, a huge number of photos, berries and mushrooms, and most importantly a dream - to return here again and again!! ! In our reviews of Karelia, for various reasons, we do not always give the coordinates of the places where we rested. But in this version, we are ready to share our contacts. Email: vovan-147.10@mail. Common crawl en If you have any questions, you can write to us: inna. kim30@mail. ru Good luck to everyone and have a wonderful holiday!! ! "...And I'm going, and I'm going for the fog...and for the smell of the taiga... "!! !
