Amazing Java
So, after reading reviews about Bali (not particularly attractive) and wandering more on the Internet, I made a firm decision to torment my relatives and go to Bali through Java. November... everywhere seems to be off-season, but you can’t get especially cheap tickets from Minsk, so as always we fly Etihad via Abu Dhabi. After wandering around the familiar airport for 6 hours, the idea arose to go to the airport hotel and book a room for return transit (9 hours, after all, at night). Lucky, the rooms were. . . a little expensive 300ue. for three, but I didn’t want to spend the night on the floor. From Abu Dhabi, an 8-hour flight to Jakarta. And then another 1.5 hours to Yogyakarta. I contacted the driver from Bali in advance and he met us together with a partner at the airport, taking our word of honor that we would arrive as a guarantee, after all, he had to travel 600 km from Bali. She developed her own plan, thanks to the feedback, which she announced to the driver. I want to say right away that none of the three of us knows any of the languages except Russian. which, in principle, did not depress us)), it turned out to communicate perfectly on the fingers))
Of course, without visiting the main temples of Indonesia it would be too much... Therefore, we started our journey from Yogyakarta. In the evening we checked into a hotel. . . I booked at booking on the advice of our driver on the Moliboro shopping street. As a result, in vain, since we settled in the evening and everything was already closed, and it’s wrong to start the holiday with shopping... In the evening, we decided to go out to people and have a bite to eat somewhere. Hope everyone knows what's up. Java 140 million people live. . . I didn't know yet. it's a nightmare. . . Holding hands and squeezing through the mopeds, we found a local cafe. . . There was quite a decent canteen inside. . . But we knew where we were going. . . we read a lot, and even a couple of Europeans followed us. So the local "animal" was not even surprised, and the first photo was dedicated to him.
By the way, looking ahead, the hotel in Yogyakarta turned out to be one of the best for the entire stay in Indonesia...
In the morning we decided to go to see the Borobudur temple, paying $20 each for the entrance and getting sarongs for rent. True, it is not clear why, because as far as I remember, one cannot enter the temple with bare knees and shoulders. But we did not argue... We had enough time for the temple . .
Surprisingly, the locals all looked at us as if they were aliens, although it seemed to be a tourist place... Then we realized that it was off-season... there were few Europeans, and people from all over Indonesia came to the temple. So we were at the peak of popularity and the most daring asked to take pictures with us. Well, how can you say no to them?
Java. . . a Muslim island. . . sorry for the girls. It's hot, and they are dressed from head to toe. . .
From the temple to the car to get another hour. The exit is made in such a way that you need to walk a kilometer of shopping arcades where they sell the same thing... We made our first purchase... a t-shirt for my husband for 4 dollars . .
After that, we immediately went to Prambanan... We liked it more there... In addition to the temple complex, there is a large walter with spotted deer on the territory, which you can feed by buying a bunch of grass for 1 dollar... There is also a very large park around with a playground, well and of course. . . malls. . . where they made a very necessary purchase. . . a map of Java. .
Now, thanks to the map, we at least somehow orientated ourselves on the terrain. Since a distance of 100 km... is at least 3 hours away, we were lost both in time and in distance. It seemed to have driven at least 300 km, but nothing at all.
According to the plan, we had to visit at least three beaches on about. Java. In the reviews, someone wrote that there are no good beaches in Java... this is a very erroneous opinion... We were lucky to visit five gorgeous beaches. The truth is one thing. These beaches are for locals only. To meet whites there in the off-season... a rarity. Infrastructure... zero... But first, in order not to upset the photo of the beaches of Baron and Kukup - not far from Yogyakarta.
So about civilization. . . Suddenly it began to get dark and we remembered that we needed to spend the night somewhere. . . I was sure that there should be plenty of hotels on the beach. What I made a big mistake about... The beaches are empty in the evening, but we go like homeless people... we are looking for... On Kukup we see, , , it is written like a hotel... we go in. Joyful Madi (this is our Russian-speaking driver) announces that there is a free room and quite inexpensive... only 25 dollars. per night... I feel Madi cheated and 25dol. the cost was along with his number. In the same room, in 2000, I spent the night on a business trip in Smolensk at the Tsentralnaya Hotel... Horror is still the same... But we were almost ready for this... Strangely enough, the air conditioner worked perfectly, Vaska (son) threw the mattress on the floor , the toilet was with a bucket, and a shower with cold water over the toilet))...
But there is nothing to do, you need to spend the night somewhere... we will survive...
Opposite the hotel, one cafe turned out to be open, to see the owners there and spend the night. We had a good snack for three with a beer for 10 dollars... and breakfast for 3 dollars. for three... So you can live...
In the morning we stopped at the Indrayarti beach indicated in the plan... very beautiful. One of the most beautiful beaches in Java. It is simply amazing that so far no one has invested in infrastructure development. We were alone on the beach. There is not a single eatery, there are huts with locals nearby, low tide in the ocean and the locals were collecting algae. There was a low tide, otherwise we would have been frightened of course... For the future, as an option, take tents with you and live there for a week. Tranquility and tranquility
We move on. Madi is only surprised when I call him a new place of residence)). How do we all know - thanks to the forum users. Our further path lies to the caves. Back in Minsk, I wrote to our driver the phone number of the organizer of this excursion. He contacted and agreed. The caves are located near the town of Semanu. The plan was to visit the Jomblanc cave and tubing, which mine subsequently refused. I want to dwell on this particular cave, because practically no one writes about this tourist route. We were supposed to be there at 10 o'clock already. We got from the beaches for 2 hours, but the landscapes that we saw around are impressive of course. For about forty minutes we drove through the local villages, then turned onto a gravel road.
Poor machine, you can’t even call the road a gravel, climbing over volcanic stones, we rode to the place in half an hour. Knowing in advance what we were going for, we changed into sportswear in the car. The place turned out to be quite picturesque. There were even several bungalows for tourists - speleologists. We were immediately brought an hour with cane sugar to boot. Everything was organized in the best possible way. Clean toilets and showers available. We arrived early and were waiting for another group to descend into the cave. Soon a couple of Australian girls and two local female tourists from northern Java arrived - a total of 7 people. We were given rubber boots. Knowing this, we took socks with us, the Australians had to put them on their bare feet. Having walked from the bungalow about 50 meters, we found a huge hole down and an unknown construction of rails. There is already some excitement. We were put on special equipment, tied with ropes - we prepared for the worst and calmed down. The instructors only laughed - they see people like us every day, the Australians began to sing their anthem (merry girls).
We had to go down on the ropes down, it seemed to me a hundred meters, maybe from fear.
The first person pointed out by the instructor is my husband. He will be the first to descend, as the heaviest. Like, we won’t be able to check the ropes)). We descended two by two, pressing against each other with ropes. . . Of course, there was enough adrenaline, but it's a very cool feeling when you go down, not knowing what awaits you there. Below was a rather stormy vegetation, because it is not very hot. There is also a huge hole in the cave.
Having walked 200 meters in the dark, fortunately Vaska had a telephone and flashlights were illuminated in some places, working on batteries, we reached the center of the cave. Rays from the sun fell from above, an underground river below, around stoloktites. You can’t stand in boots on them, only barefoot. Autumn is beautiful, unusual, not every day you see.
I didn’t want to leave, everyone took pictures, kneaded the dirt around with their bare feet, squealed and chased away the snakes, which, apparently, accidentally fell from above. Somewhere in an hour we went back and also on the ropes, but one by one they pulled us up. The rope was pulled by locals, about 10 people, the view was like barge haulers on the Volga. They gave everyone lunch, we gave it to the driver. They couldn't get used to their food. This was one of the best tours in Indonesia. It cost us 450k. rupees per person, but it was worth it - an unforgettable experience. I would have spent a couple of days here, but time is limited, we drove on.
Our path lay in the city of Pachitan and inspection (only inspection)) a couple more caves and beaches. But then I remembered that we are running out of rupees. And at. e. here in Java no one takes. I had to return to the nearest city and look for ATMs. By the way, exchangers in Java are only in large cities (Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Surabaya). So I was saved by a bank card - practically everywhere in more or less medium-sized towns you can withdraw money from the card. Then, according to the statement, I realized that it is even more profitable if you change the currency (this is only in Java, in Bali it is more profitable to go to the exchanger).
Let's go further. According to the plan of Gong Gong Cave, Clayar Beach, Teleng Ria Beach. Here we decided to be prudent and first look for a hotel and preferably with hot water. The hotel was found near Teleng Ria beach, for 30 dollars. with the same toilet with a bucket (see Kukup beach above) and with hot water. But the hot water in the shower came from a separate faucet. That is, it was impossible to combine it in the soul))) It was already more lively here, there were a lot of people, there were plenty of eateries. BUT! There is no beer! Nowhere. It's still a Muslim island. Our Madi, having passed through local shops, and after passing several cafes, we found out that it is useless to look for beer, as well as other alcohol. So we advise you to prepare in advance if che.
After spending the night, in the morning we stopped at TenegRia beach. I don't understand why people don't swim here. Yes, they say the current, but you don't have to go far. Very picturesque and beautiful, gorgeous wide and long beach. As it turned out later, there are even good hotels and cafes on the shore, somewhat reminiscent of Jimbaran Beach in Bali, only of course a little wild.
We eat in the direction of Clayar Beach - this is the most beautiful beach in Java and, to be honest, the most beautiful beach that I have seen in Indonesia. The road to the beach has just begun to be laid. But our driver says that with a good driver there are no bad roads. Again we go to the gravel road and 1.5 km. to the beach. Steep descents, ascents and we are on the beach. Yes, I digress, enterprising Indonesians almost everywhere take money for entry to the beaches - from 2-3 thousand rupees per person to 30. for the car.
Clayar Beach - some memories. A few locals, a few cafes for locals, there are no Europeans like on all beaches. On the right, the ascent to the cliff - the view down is stunning, you can feel all the power of the ocean.
On the beaches of ATVs, you can for 50 thousand. rupees drive to the other end of the beach and return. We did just that. To the left of the beach, a fountain of water breaks out of the ground in the rocks. When the wave is strong, the jet is higher. Impressive. Special steps on the stones to see this miracle. 30 minutes walking on the rock. I already see "enterprising Indonesians" standing at the steps and collecting 10 thousand rubles from local tourists. rupees for the entrance to the rock. And after all, they pay)) We bypassed them, so as not to interfere with work)).
On the way back we stopped at the Gong Gong caves. 50 meters up the stairs, everything is cultivated. Around, as always, shopping malls))... The entrance to the cave is 30 thousand rupees per person. So, enter, look, walk around the cave with illuminated stoloctites-stolognites... It is very hot and humid inside, though huge fans are installed. But they don't really help. For general development, it is worth visiting, especially since we didn’t specifically visit...
After driving a couple of km. discovered an abandoned cave. It was closed due to road repairs. We stopped, went down. . . unusual.
We decided to spend the night in Blitar. While we were driving, we found the most expensive hotel in this city on the Internet on Booking, hoping that there would certainly be hot water and more or less normal conditions for spending the night)). Booking did not lie)) the hotel is really good. Gorgeous territory, the room is excellent and most importantly - hot water and a fruit platter. Madi kept wondering why you need it, a cold shower is wonderful. But, I really wanted to wash well)). In the evening for the first time on about. Java dined very expensive - for three 70 dollars. , Really very tasty. They just didn't want to leave the hotel, that's why it's expensive. There were enough warungs nearby where you could have a bite to eat - our Madi probably had dinner there. By the way, he was with a partner, he says you need to go with someone from Bali. Sometimes it seemed to me that Madi was not understood by the locals. Then it turned out that there are a lot of dialects in Java, and the Balinese do not always understand the inhabitants from Java, and vice versa.
The air conditioner did not work well in the room, we tried to explain on our fingers at the reception that "air conditioning know")), to which we were answered "ok, freon know? ")). In short, after 10 minutes, the air conditioner worked, they called us and asked, "frion is ok", we answered "ok". Somehow they fix it inside - I still don’t understand)).
In the morning, newspapers were brought to my husband, with the words "press sir")). Of course, we accepted the press, but we did not try to read it)). In general, the hotel is excellent, if anyone needs it, I will gladly give the coordinates. We immediately realized that we had ordered the wrong breakfast. It was necessary "American", and we were "intercontinental", and choked on rolls with coffee)).
In the morning we moved to the next goal - Bromo volcano. It took almost a whole day to drive. By evening we were at the hotel. We must pay tribute to Madi, he understood our requests, so he chose the hotel very even nothing, in the Balinese style. It was Saturday, we were not very lucky here. On weekends, tickets to volcanoes are several times more expensive, and it’s hard to find a hotel, so if someone is traveling during the season, it’s better to book in advance. The hotel offered us a great suite. . . Dinner was amazing too. Madi agreed with a local jeep, and we were supposed to be at the reception at 3.30 in the morning. At the entrance to the hotel, "enterprising Indonesians" wrapped in blankets offered to buy hats and rent jackets. We didn’t understand, we were standing in shorts and T-shirts, on the street +17- why is it cold chtol?
Very tired. We wanted to sleep a little, but it wasn't there.
We went to bed at 10 in the morning, at 11 we settled in the next room of the Chinese. I don't even know how many people lived there. As it turned out, there was no insulation between the rooms, or the “twitter” was such that no soundproofing helped. 12th - they don’t stop talking... why did they drink that... Judging by the fact that we got up at 3 o’clock in the morning, we were already at the limit, and even so we decided to “talk” very loudly in Russian so that the Chinese (behind the wall) understood that Russians are nearby (well, or Belarusians))). Do not believe it, the "twitter" stopped after half a minute - maybe it helped. Falling asleep and inventing intrigues to the Chinese, what we will do with them at 3 o'clock in the morning, we finally fell asleep... We woke up at 2.55 - the Chinese were chirping. revenge failed.
Well, we flew out of Minsk in November, it was already quite cool, so in the morning at +10 we put on our native clothes. Hats were not needed. At the reception they "heard" our Chinese - but oh well... they look harmless,... when they are silent...
Pretty good jeep brought us to the observation deck.
Through the same malls with coffee, hot corn and noodles, Rolton squeezed their way to the observation deck and began to wait for dawn. If, nevertheless, you really want to sleep in the morning, you won’t lose anything if you don’t see the rising sun... Well, this is my opinion,
After meeting the dawn, we went to the Bromo volcano. Yes, the view from the mountains is amazing. It's a pity the road is narrow, and it's not very convenient to stop for a photo. We went down to the foot of the volcano - nothing to do with the planet Earth. It needs to be seen and felt. We are out of luck again. Very strong wind knocked down. We remembered where we left the jeep and went to climb the volcano. Volcanic dust clogged everything. . . eyes, mouth, ears. We were not ready for this. I found a scarf in my backpack, tore it into three parts so that everyone could somehow blindfold their eyes and ears, since the scarf is at least translucent. Immediately, "enterprising Indonesians" were selling medical masks for $1. three jokes. Bought, where to go. Goggles for swimming would help, of course, because sun glasses do not help against dust... It is very difficult to climb, but this is for me. Saiga Vasily is already far ahead. The locals offer horses to take you up to the stairs to the volcano crater for 5 dollars, it’s impossible to walk, the strongest wind. I agree and they take me... Honestly, I didn’t regret it, I’m not such an athlete, but I didn’t have enough breath. I arrived first, after 5 minutes mine were pulled up. Vasily climbed the stairs, but we, in a line behind people, stopping at every gust of wind, reached the top of the crater in 20 minutes. You look down and goosebumps, either from admiration, or from adrenaline... If there was no wind, you could walk along the edge. And so we take a picture with an ordinary soap dish and hold on to the handrails. Vasik hid his camera - afraid for the lens, sand around his head, legs, in his eyes, in his nose....
I recommend everyone to visit there. We were unlucky with the weather, but if I ever visit Java again, I will definitely go to Bromo again.
At the hotel, having washed, shaking out the clothes as much as possible and putting them in separate bags, they rushed on.
After Bromo, the destination was Madakaripura Falls. It is located near Bromo. Everywhere in the reviews it is written to take a local, such as a guide. They took it, I don't know why. There are a lot of people - all local, not a single European, everyone follows each other in a string - about 1 km to the waterfall.
The views are gorgeous, we forded the river 3 times. Probably in the rains, it is impossible to pass here, so they are already building transitions near the rock. All the work of the local guide was to give hands when we cross the stones)) Well, everyone earns as he can.
The waterfall is amazing. Falls from a height of about 200 meters. The locals all want to take pictures with us. We do not refuse. Many stand under waterfalls. We took raincoats from the water with us in advance, even Madi got one. He had never been here, he decided to come with us. The local guide got him water - he says it is very clean and healing, I'm not sure. Locals swim under waterfalls and wash their hair)). Very nice.
The nature around is very beautiful and the waterfall is such a rarity of course.
Today we have to get to the Ijen volcano. We are already driving along the northern coast of Java, along the sea. We stop in Banuwangi. There is also a port from where we will sail to Bali. The hotel is quite decent, there are already a lot of Europeans, Russians have not yet met, for 5 days as one)). Madi offered to leave at 12 o'clock at night and meet the dawn on Ijen. At night, they say you can see the blue fire in the crater of the volcano. We refused, a sleepless night with the Chinese was not in vain.
In the morning at 4.30 in the morning we moved again in a jeep to the foot of Ijen. It turned out to be an hour and a half drive. You could probably find a hotel closer and not pay 45 dollars. jeep. But in principle, it is very convenient and the road is such that Madi probably did not want to ruin the car. By the way, the cunning Madi himself stayed at the hotel, I later realized why he didn’t go with us. It was already light at the foot of the mountain, they showed us where to go. They say on the forums you need to take a guide, but I don’t see such a need, the road is one, you don’t need to turn anywhere. 3 km up - I did not think that I would reach it. We were joined by 2 local hard workers who are pulling sulfur from the crater of the volcano. From below they walked with empty baskets and all the way they morally dragged us up)) Saiga Vasily, as always, ran far up - still young, full of strength. One of the locals, seeing how I was trudging, knocked out a stick for me - it became easier. I rested every 50 meters. It's hard, but not fatal. Tourists were already walking towards, who probably met the dawn. Some were already dragged down by the guides, yet at least some kind of physical. preparation is needed. Our assistants cheered me up all the time... Well, there were still 2 km left, then 300m, before rest, then 100m. Then it turned out the distance was twice as long, so it seemed to me. After the pass, 1 km remained, it’s already easier, the road is a little more equal and not so much uphill.
There are very few people on the rise - we met a couple of people, we even overtook them. And so mostly workers with heavy baskets of sulfur.
So little by little - 2 hours of climbing reached the top. The view is breathtaking - you can admire for hours. Burnt earth, nothing grows above, bizarre tree roots and a huge crater.
Below the lake. . . We came to the edge of the volcano. What to do? We bought respirators, so we need to go down. Here already our assistants "enterprising Indonesians" offered to help in descending into the crater and show at the same time the extraction of sulfur for 20 dollars. In principle, we wanted to give them some kind of baksheesh, all the same, they helped, albeit morally, during the ascent, and it was fun with them, they speak all the languages of the world)). Therefore, bargaining for 15t decided to go with them. I stayed upstairs to wait, not daring to go down. I think to go down, then I will go down, but going up 500 meters is probably a problem, especially in a respirator. Having taken all the backpacks, I stayed upstairs to wait, and mine went down to hell)). Appropriate title. It is very good that we were lucky with the wind here. Unlike Bromo, he was almost non-existent. So the sulfur cloud remained in the crater. Looking from above, the people in the crater looked like ants, I could hardly distinguish where mine were. Of course, when they returned an hour later, they looked simply stunned. The memories will last a lifetime. The local guys did their best, showed how sulfur is mined, molded figurines from sulfur and presented it to us. They got up already with sulfur on their shoulders in 65kg. In gratitude from us, plus for payment, we also received respirators. At least a little help in their difficult work.
On the way down we stopped at the scales on the pass, where sulfur is being weighed. Everyone is about the same - 65-70 kg. All workers are happy to take pictures with us.
When they went downstairs, they decided to give the hard workers their breakfast received at the hotel. They gladly took it away - at least some kind of savings.
We arrived at the hotel at 12, changed clothes and went to Bali... Happy Madi was already waiting for us - he really wanted to go home too.
Farewell Java. Whether we will ever visit these places again is unknown. But her memory will remain forever. . .
It takes 40 minutes by ferry to Bali. . . What else awaits us there is unknown))
I will try to write a report on Bali in the near future . .
