Croatia. Dalmatia. Single sketches - 2: TROGIR

22 October 2012 Travel time: with 11 august 2012 on 25 august 2012
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Croatia. Dalmatia. Single sketches - 2: TROGIR

As is often the case with charters, a few weeks before departure, the schedule of the charter flight Wind Rose Kyiv-Split and back changed, but very successfully for us: instead of 17.40-19.10 (back 20.10-23.25) it became 15.30-17.00 (back 17.50-21.20) , i. e. we could now get to know Croatia 2 hours earlier : ), and we managed to catch the night train back to our hometown, there was no unpleasant need for the night waiting for the morning train at the station (a special “thank you” to the railway for a very inconvenient schedule: ().

The Wind Rose airline was unexpectedly pleasantly surprised (previously there was a somewhat skeptical attitude towards it): quite decent planes (Airbus A320), polite crew, delicious food : ) .


The plane, when landing in Split, as if on purpose, made a lap of honor over Trogir to show us it in all its glory, the view was really super! I still scold myself that I hid the camera far away and did not take a photo : (.

To get a little idea of ​ ​ what Trogir looks like from a height, take a look at the links:

Trogir and about. Ciovo:

http://img84. imageshack. us/img84/3184/trogir4a.jpg

Trogir, its old town:

http://img202. imageshack. us/img202/8606/trogir3a.jpg

The airport in Split is small, but during the peak season the passenger traffic is very high (it seemed to me that it was much more than in Boryspil in terminal F). Although everything was organized quite well and quickly: at the departure, at the same counter, they checked in for 2 flights at once, boarding started earlier, and in order to send us faster, they even served 2 ladders : ), in my memory this was the first time.

But we didn’t even notice all this upon arrival: we quickly boarded the airport bus (on the way back we were generally taken along the “pedestrian crossing” : ) to the plane), quickly passed passport control (it’s nice to feel like a “white” person: you show only your passport and no visas). Then we received luggage (however, on this trip we were “lucky” to receive luggage as one of the last from our flight : ), both there and back), there were no losses with luggage (we pre-packed it ourselves): we didn’t lose it, we didn’t get it dirty , they didn’t break (which, unfortunately, happened with the luggage of one of my friends on the UIA flight to Montenegro - the suitcase was cut, so much so that things fell out : ().

Given that Croatia has its own currency - the kuna, it was necessary to change some amount of money at the airport. Unexpectedly, at the airport, at the bank, there was a very good exchange rate - 7.423 and no commission (exactly at the bank! on the right at the exit of the airport).

The exchange rate nearby in the exchanger (chanter) was only 7.07!


Preparing for the trip, I calculated what mandatory expenses we would have to pay (transport + sightseeing, about 170 euros), which we would have to pay in local currency, and knowing the average euro / kuna exchange rate, I took a chance and changed 2/3 of this amount immediately into airport and then did not regret it. It was, oddly enough, the best exchange rate we saw on the whole trip!

Thanks to the reviews and forums, I clearly knew where I should look for the bus stop number 37: exit the airport building, go through the parking lot towards the sea to the highway and there will be a bus stop to Trogir on the right (to Split you need to cross the road and stop on the left). So it was, there were no more people at the bus stop (you see, they got the luggage before us : ) and had already left), but there were 2 taxi drivers who began to “spud” us, but take a taxi for 10 euros / person for 6 km to the old city, which is not allowed to transport, there was no need.

We politely refused their services, they left, although one of them later returned (apparently having eliminated a less experienced competitor: ) and continued to “graze” us. After 10 minutes, a bus came, the driver had a ticket for 13 kunas (less than 2 euros), after another 7 minutes we were already at the Trogir bus station on its mainland.

Trogir, its old town (under the protection of UNESCO) is located on an island separated from the mainland by a canal through which a small bridge is thrown (near it there is a bus station), another bridge connects the old town to a much larger island - about. Ciovo.

In Trogir, next to the bridge, not far from the bus station, there is an exchanger (the rate was 7.42 (no commission)) where I changed the remaining required amount the next day, then the rate was worse everywhere, and we changed only 2 more times for 10 euros ( in general, met the estimated amount). Banks and exchangers may charge a commission for the exchange, pay attention to this.

As for other expenses (mainly food), almost everywhere they paid with cards (in hryvnia, which also turned out to be a good exchange rate). The network of supermarkets in Croatia is very developed, the main ones: Kerum, Konzum, Tommy are found at almost every step, prices are at the level of our Ukrainian ones, sometimes even cheaper.


Right there, not far from the Trogir bus station, there is a market (open until late) and Konzum.

We crossed the bridge and on the Google map, moved towards the booked housing, and then it turned out that these maps were not very adapted to the intricate streets of such ancient cities, in addition, signs with street names were not everywhere, I had to ask, we found quickly, fortunately not far away and the owners made a well-marked sign with the name.

I booked a room right in the center of the old city, I wanted to plunge into its atmosphere, in a 700-year-old house, the room, although very large, is fully equipped with everything you need: a private bathroom, air conditioning, a small refrigerator, TV, WiFi, an electric kettle with cups and tea and coffee set. Great location in a quiet cozy place, in the courtyard a lot of greenery. There are small balconies with tables and chairs where you can enjoy a cup of coffee. The friendly hosts were already waiting for us, provided us with a map, told us something, treated us to figs (until now I have never eaten such sweet figs).

Having left things and put ourselves in order a bit, we went to Konzum, and then get acquainted with the city in its evening illumination.

We liked Trogir right away: its winding, narrow streets with polished stones underfoot; main square; the embankment with palm trees and moored yachts (some are even very large and expensive) and the amazing atmosphere of the city itself… The old city, in general, is very harmonious and cozy.

Once again I was convinced that in order to better “feel” a city, you need to spend the night in it, in the evening, as a rule, it is completely different than during the day: the bulk of the tourists who come to conquer it during the day leave, and he lives some kind of his own. another life...

This was our first perception of Croatia, and it was very positive and even enthusiastic in some places.


Having wandered around the city, we appreciated the convenient location of our hotel: walk in a straight line from the main square for 3-4 minutes and then go around the corner of the street.

Despite the very center, there is already inaudible noise from either the main square or the embankment, where many restaurants are located, and life is in full swing until late at night ...

The next day was completely devoted to Trogir.

Sightseeing: St. Lovro Cathedral + bell tower (25 kn); Ch. square, Chipico Palace; Kamerlengo Fortress (20 kunas - just for the sake of the views around, there is nothing special inside, there are concerts in the summer), etc. We just wandered around the city (there was even some kind of entertainment - “find the way”, my husband was then surprised how I was able to navigate so quickly and well in these labyrinths : ).

I continued, according to tradition, ice cream tasting, the most delicious was in the Dovani cafe (not far from the bridge on the island of Ciovo, on the street leading to the gate to the embankment), there were other desserts.

We went to the bus station to sort out the buses the next day and started exploring the nearest beaches: one small beach is located on the mainland, if you walk a little behind the bus station in the direction of Split, the second is directly opposite the first, on about. Ciovo. We decided to swim to the beach in Okrug Gorny (according to the recommendations on the forums), at the same time arrange a small boat trip with a tour of the surroundings.

Taxi boats, indeed, depart directly from the embankment, not far from the Kamerlengo fortress (20 kunas one way), according to the schedule every 30 minutes. , but in reality - even more often, swim for about 15 minutes.

The beach is not very wide, but well equipped with everything you need, who wants privacy can go a little further and he will find it. Parallel to the beach, almost next to each other, there are 3 supermarkets of competing chains.

All the beaches we discovered were "sandy" - some very small pebbles, probably bulk.


The Adriatic Sea in Croatia is of some special emerald color, transparent even at great depths, completely different than from Italy! The shores, indented with bays, islands, large and small ...All this must be seen!

In the evening we got acquainted with Croatian cuisine in one of the restaurants on the embankment, tried the “fish fee” for two (a fish plate with seafood), the prices depend on the “nobility of the fish” : )).

And tomorrow we were waiting for the Krka Waterfalls.

To be continued…

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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Улочки Трогира
Улочки Трогира
Улочки Трогира
Кафе-мороженое
Улочки Трогира
Улочки Трогира
Вид на Трогир с моста на о. Чиово
Вид на пляж в Округе Горном
Вид на вечерний Трогир с такси-ботика
Вид на вечерний Трогир с такси-ботика
Вид на вечерний Трогир с такси-ботика
Улочки старого города
Улочки старого города
Улочки старого города
Улочки старого города
Вид с крепости Камерленго
Вид на Трогир с крепости Камерленго
Вид на о. Чиово с крепости Камерленго
Вид на набережную Трогира с крепости Камерленго
Вид с крепости Камерленго
Вид на Трогир и о. Чиово с крепости Камерленго
Набережная.  Отсюда отправляются такси-ботики на Округ Горный, Мадену...
Кафедральный Собор Св. Ловро
Колокольня Собора
Улочки старого Трогира
Улочки старого Трогира
Улочки старого Трогира
Улочки старого Трогира
Вот какие охранники на входе в Собор
Вот оно море - совсем рядом с аэропортом Сплита!
Оригинальные конструкции в аэропорту Сплита
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