OUR ADVENTURES IN THE BAYS OF MARS ALAM (PART 2)
3. ABU-DABBAB (45 km south of the hotel).
By the third day of our vacation, the company had already gathered so massive that we thought it was time to go to Dabab (the distance there will be more, and the entrance is not free). Still, I really wanted to get there before the departure of Volkis and his wife, since last year their trip to the bay was an excursion and, as a result, disappointed, which is not surprising, but I wanted to show them this worthy place in all its glory. Although we spent two weeks of vacation there two years ago, we also dreamed of going there and "nostalgic", and also, in our own company, we could afford to swim away. Everyone supported the proposal of experienced "researchers" from the "Turpravdov team" and the right decision was easily made!
The bus there (and back) cost us $ 70, plus the entrance to the beach 5 EURO or $ 8 per person - this is the official fee (bargaining attempts had no effect). The beach is equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas.
Also, there is a dive center, a cafe, a toilet, a shower (the maximum that is needed for fans of the Sea). With some of our new acquaintances, there was an embarrassment - they took with them everything they could (including food), but forgot their masks with snorkels! For us, of course, it was marvelous, marvelous, because we could forget anything, but not equipment. On the one hand, we were humorous, on the other hand, there was a certain awkwardness, since we always feel responsible for those newcomers who ride with us, as they say, "without looking into the road. " This is where the presence of a dive center saved us, where we managed to take the missing, for $ 5 per set (fortunately, while these beginners still do not understand the difference in the comfort and convenience of these essential things, I hope that they "grow up" and learn this).
ABU-DABBAB is perhaps the most famous bay of Marsa Alam, and therefore the most visited - there are a lot of excursions.
Everyone is lured there by the dugong, although it has not been seen there for a long time (legends and fairy tales do not count). Again, finding this very Dugong has been our "fixed idea" for several years now, to check (or refute) this myth once again was also tempted. For what, a plan was developed - to go along the southern wall of the reef, then, "scour" the center, where this dream animal most often happens on the grass, and then, if there is time, walk along the northern side of the bay. Looking ahead, I will say that, with all our massive diligence, the dugong was not found. Yes, and there are already fewer turtles there, compared to the year before last - the mass visit to this place affects, unfortunately, the inhabitants of this unique place.
According to the plan, we began to act - there was enough time, since this time the bus was booked for 13.00, because we knew that we could and should stay longer in ABU-DABBAB.
The "swim" began from the southern wall, and then continued outside the bay further and further south. I can safely say that the farther, the more beautiful, diverse and interesting, but please bear in mind that there are insidious currents and "twists" on the other side. We especially remember the coral "waterfall" (as we called it). There is a photo of this beauty, but, believe me, the real picture is more impressive. We were pleased with whole shoals of fish, as well as excellent specimens of groupers and long-finned platax. Of course, you can swim there forever, but, in the end, there comes a moment when you realize that it's time to return. Yes, and local fishermen with nets and "traps" do not please with their presence.
Having crossed the whole "front", deliberately stretching with might and main (and suddenly a dugong! ), the bay and, having "greeted" the local turtles along the way, we reached the northern wall.
For our newbies, it has become a fairy tale, and for us, a frustration, as this reef continues to die. There, two years ago, obvious traces of the presence of a mass of people were visible, and now, even more so. It must be noted that huge fish-flutes (well, just like loaves! ) are a distinctive feature of this place. We have not seen such large individuals and such a number of these representatives of the underwater world anywhere else! But, unfortunately, cuttlefish did not see a single one in the entire bay, whereas before there were a great many of them (I don’t want to think that they weren’t there, we’ll blame it on natural factors).
The hours spent in the bay flew by like a moment. There was still a little time left before departure, and we happily wandered along the wonderful sandy beach of Dabab. Now there, right in the bay, there are already two hotels - Sol Y Mar Abu Dabbab 5 * and Hilton Marsa Alam Nubian Resort 5 *. Probably, the local nature will not get better from this.
Saying goodbye to this wonderful place, tired, but, as always happy after long swims, we returned to the hotel with a dream to quickly fall into the pool with a bar, where they would pour us a cold beer.
4. ONE DAY IN CROWN PLAZA 5*.
This day was a gift for us, moreover, in the literal and figurative sense of the word. The fact is that our company of six people rested in CROWN PLAZA 5 * (Port Ghalib) last year and got to huge corporate parties, and therefore, our vacation suffered greatly (read my last year's review on the hotel). Thanks to the assistance of a female worker with a guest relation, whom we met then, became friends and corresponded all year, the hotel gave us a gift in the form of a free beach use (use of the beach) for one day in order to rehabilitate ourselves in our eyes.
We were even offered a room to change and use the shower, which we refused - the beach was quite enough for us (there is a shower there too), the pier and, of course, the sea.
It was very unusual to see the hotel so quiet. There was a feeling that everything had died out, compared with last year (or rather, with last year's "madhouse") - the hotel was clearly filled with a maximum of 40%. The beach is empty, there are a couple of people at the pool, nobody on the territory! I don’t know what was the reason - a damaged reputation after last year’s events (everyone was “delighted” with invasions) or the past revolution, although this is unlikely, since nothing like this was observed in Resta. We noticed a significant change - a bar appeared directly on the beach, whereas, as last year, we were content with a bar in a restaurant located near the beach. In general, it was interesting to walk around the territory - inexplicable double feelings.
On the one hand - unpleasant memories of disgusting moments, on the other - some kind of nostalgia and regret that such a good hotel has so spoiled its reputation.
Well, okay, enough lyrical digressions - hurry to the sea! And we met with him with pleasure. It was very interesting to swim where we spent two weeks of vacation a year ago. You swim and see - everything is in place, life is seething there, as before. True, this year, it was somehow poorer with the presence of living creatures. If last year there were an unmeasured number of meetings with turtles, huge barracudas and very large moray eels, then this time we did not meet them at all. Of course, we sailed the left side of the reef, right up to the palace of His Majesty the Sheikh, lingered for a long time in the bay on the way to it in search of a huge grouper and Napoleon living there, but not finding it, we returned to the shore, as the weather turned bad.
It didn’t work out with a photo that day, because the day before in Dababa, my husband did not calculate and dived deep with a camera. He (the camera) had to arrange "resuscitation" for the day - the benefit helped, otherwise he would not have been able to take pictures further and the main pictures would not have turned out. But, for that, volkis has a photo, maybe he will post it (although you can see last year's ones in the reviews, I'll throw a link in the comments).
In general, we accepted the gift with pleasure.
5. RAS TORONBI (16 km north of the hotel).
The history of this bay turned out to be very cool and interesting. The fact is that our first trip there turned out on the last day of our stay at the volkisa hotel with my wife. Moreover, initially, the plans of this day converged on the examination of the Coraya bay, adjacent to Resta, since there is something for freedivers (which volkis and walrus are) to do there.
But, having looked at the local "circumstances" associated with the problems of the hotel pier, already, late in the evening, in the bar (as usual) it was decided to go somewhere, still go - after all, for some members of the team the last day of vacation and lose he would be sorry. Ride - so ride! The question is where? At home, I was still exploring all the bays south of Resta, to the north, I didn’t even look. The planchette volkisa came to the rescue, where all the bays were packed. As a result, volkis insisted on a trip to TORONBI, however, there were no particular objections - everyone was in a great mood and were ready for anything, even for a feat. The map of the bay was spinning in all directions at different scales in order to understand where, ultimately, we should arrive and where we should leave the taxi. We came up with something for ourselves and moved to the next auction with "friends-taxi drivers. " It turned out that they do not know this bay at all and do not even know what we want from them.
I had to poke for a long time at the map hanging on their wall, and at the tablet. Fifteen minutes of straining, and "the key is in our pocket" - two passenger cars were ordered (since our bus was already busy by that time) at a price of $ 35 for both.
At 7:30 in the morning (as usual), the happy crew headed north towards their next adventure. And they didn't keep us waiting. The first surprise happened right on the track, when we already understood that this was the bay, we were practically approaching it. The cars stopped, and our driver, having left the car, went to negotiate with his partner. The absence was tormenting, a few minutes later a phone was put to my ear, I was told (in broken English) that you were being dropped off right here, since the "military zone" was further along and cars could not go there, and even further, the road goes too far far from the coast. We agreed to leave the taxi right there.
Once on the road, we began to look around the area. The bay has an interesting configuration, as if the two are connected into one with a cape in the middle. We understood this moment at the hotel, looking at the tablet, and decided that we needed to get to this very cape. So we began to act on the ground - we moved in that direction along the beach, dragging heavy equipment and everything we needed. I will say right away that the road is not close. Approaching closer and closer to the cape, it became clear that the "military zone", the most real. Moreover, we were successfully noticed by its inhabitants and two fighters of the local armed forces were already coming to meet us, moreover, one of them was armed with a real machine gun. I confess, I physically felt something fall somewhere in me, and a chill ran through - I'm not used, you know, to such turns.
Gathering all my will and courage into a fist, I "glued" a smile to my face and began to explain in English that we were just walking along the beach to continue swimming there. In response - Arabic speech (I don’t speak at all), I just batted my eyes, in fact, like the rest. Next, some question with the ending "Arabic? ". Thank God, I knew that to answer this - to shake my head (which I did). All interest was lost in us, and the hand gesture of the warriors unequivocally said - come on in! Everyone went limp, but they noticeably increased their pace - they wanted to get out of there as soon as possible.
So, without looking back, we got to the cape and threw off the load. Looking around, we realized that our team, most likely, the first tourists who got here along the coast. All this, of course, is interesting, but time is running out, but you still need to have time to visit the sea (and not just visit, swim and survey the local beauties).
Visually, this prospect looked problematic, since there was no real comfortable entry into the water. Dozens of seconds of hesitation and volkis is the first to decide to put on equipment and go in search of it - the responsibility for the people that he dragged to this "dead" place prevailed. Watching his "ordeals", we, jokingly, only repeated: "Where did you lead us, Susanin? ". At this time, my wife and I decided to go back a little, as we saw a not bad place along the way. It was necessary to consider it in more detail, which we did. As a result, the company was returned there, and the volkis, nevertheless, found its long way - the meeting took place already at sea. The entrance we found was so narrow that we were afraid we wouldn't find it on our return. Because of this, one of our "newcomers" swam all the time near the "hole", guarding it.
Here we are at sea! The bay is a fairy tale!
Such a variety of corals in color and structure, we, perhaps, have not seen yet. Their virgin integrity adds to the delight - it's great when the place is sparsely inhabited by sightseers. The northern reef of this half of the bay, along which we went, is not just a wall, but continuous labyrinths, islets, crevices, grottoes and wells - an unsurpassed splendor! Class! But, it must be borne in mind that in all these labyrinths and get lost for a short time. The presence of living creatures also pleased. In one of the labyrinth wells, at that time, we found a huge (at least 1.5 meters in diameter) short-tailed stingray. Moreover, the meeting with him was so unusual that it simply impressed us. His behavior was so explicable and understandable that we had not the slightest doubt about his intentions.
As soon as this huge fish noticed us, it immediately rose from the bottom, slowly and importantly rose to us and returned to its rightful place, and, as it seemed to us, with a solemn sound. There was no doubt - the stingray climbed up to us to see who granted it to his possession, and also to show us that the owner already exists in this place. Phenomenal! We looked at him, as if spellbound - I didn’t even think of making at least one approximation in the photo.
Time passed quickly, it was time to return to the hole, near which we were met by our "not far swimming" - they were also pleased with the time spent in the bay. We returned to the same place where we were dropped off from the taxi - all the way I thought that we must visit this bay again this year. There "work" - no end!
For several days I purposefully promoted the idea of revisiting TORONBI to the masses, but I ran into resistance, fortunately, not very zealous - either they said that it was dangerous to go to the military zone (once it was lucky, and what was not known the other time), then they gave arguments, that someone needs to guard the "hole". But, fortunately, the weak resistance was broken. The question arose, how to designate a "hole" in some way, which means that we need a buoy - we have never had such an urgent need for it, therefore we did not purchase it in advance. I had to start from improvised means. Walrus found a thick black rope on the shore near the hotel, which, as a result, was successfully "untwisted" into beautiful ropes - half the battle! In the evening, on the eve of the second trip to TORONBI, a targeted shopping trip was arranged in search of a "imitator" buoy.
A children's inflatable raft of bright pink color was bought - with it on my shoulder, I looked like a lantern, it was impossible not to notice me (it means that the problem is solved and it will show us the way to the exit from the water).
The next day, as usual, at 7.30 am, we on our bus (the same money) moved again to this bay. Already, as experienced, we ourselves indicated where to drop us off. This time, the path seemed much shorter, since we already knew where we were going. The warriors, of course, noticed us and, apparently, recognized us, but they did not go towards us, but only hooted, whistled, shouted and waved their hands. We, without turning around, trotted past - we have a goal! Having passed this "difficult" section of the path, we found that this time the coast looks completely different - the tide. How now to find our "hole"? They came to the rescue, found last time, on the shore, the shells that we photographed - it turned out to be an excellent guide for us.
This time, two yachts with divers were discovered, which means that after all, amateurs go here too (fortunately, not as massively as in other places).
Well, the equipment is put on, the raft is fixed with a rope to a stone at the bottom - it's time to go to sea! We again moved to the left of the entrance. Ten minutes later, the situation in the water began to change dramatically - the tide began to ebb. At first, the water began to turn dark green, almost black, then cold jets of water began to break through, and they were so icy that I howled into the tube with each hit, despite the suit. The closer to the coast, the colder and more these unpleasant "tongues". Needless to say, we did not immediately think of returning back. So, slowly, with a certain discomfort, we swam to the yachts (almost at the exit from the bay). And, oh miracle! in that place, a huge handsome Napoleon was found - he "stood" straight 7-10 meters from us, then, importantly, he hid in the depths.
It’s a pity that we couldn’t take a photo of him, as the conditions were getting tougher - the current increased so much that it became impossible to hang in one place. I don’t remember such a force of the current, it could easily, in the blink of an eye, carry it into the sea - this began to become unsafe. We decided to go back through the coral labyrinths, hoping that somewhere there would be a way out. It was a very difficult and laborious path, but it was rewarded. In the next well, we found a very large, apparently quite old guitar player. Despite the difficult situation, we still managed to photograph him, and even at a depth where a walrus dived to him with a camera. In comparison with it, we estimated the size of this fish - definitely more than 2 meters, while, in my catalog, it is listed as a maximum of 1.7 m. So we are lucky!
A lot of effort and ordeal through the labyrinths and we are at our hole. What will we do next?
The bay is big - we will float to the middle, and suddenly a dugong (oh, this dugong! does not give rest). No sooner said than done! In the center of this half of the bay, indeed, the place is suitable - sand and grass. Naturally, we met turtles, and also a very large ringed stingray. His tail was so long that when the walrus dived towards him with a camera, I was very worried that he would not get it with his tail, because this danger is known to everyone. We did not swim too far, because there were visible solid traps of local fishermen, and this is also not safe. We decided to return and, the remaining time, swim on the right side of our "hole", there is no wall there, but the islands are just lovely.
In general, the bay is just class! For the timid and experienced, we highly recommend!
Sorry, but that's not all! My conscience is tormenting - I want to write as soon as possible and in more detail, but there is sorely not enough time.
There will be more.
