Opening the Heavens. Foreword
Before writing this story, I deliberately paused for a good six months and several trips so that my feelings subsided.
I am 100% European in spirit; the ancient streets of medieval Europe and the immense natural beauties are closest to my heart. I was going to go to Asia in my old age, if I want to look for my “zen”. But fate decreed otherwise.
Airport
In a week, going on a trip to the other side of the earth, alone, getting a visa, buying tickets and completing all the formalities? I can practice. A 15-hour flight with a transfer in Moscow and voila - Beijing airport meets me. The hour of the night. There are many, many faces of oriental appearance around. And among them I am the only girl of European appearance. How did I feel and how did I look? Probably, as if she were dark-skinned and appeared at the reception of the British Queen 200-300 years ago. Instantly, a crowd of taxi drivers formed around me, some porters and sellers who did not speak English at all, literally grabbing my hands, ripping out suitcases and wringing fantastic fares to the hotel. Back in Kyiv, I learned that money is demanded from you for carrying a suitcase, as well as for any help (this is such a local airport mafia, so it’s better not to talk to anyone, since even a person in uniform can turn out to be “leftist”), that you can trust only government taxi drivers driving yellow checkered cars and issuing fare receipts. Accompanied by the crowd, leaving the terminal into the wall of a tropical downpour, I tried to stop these same taxis, but they all passed by, already loaded with passengers. In such a situation, even a person who is not timid, who knows how to navigate the world, after a 15-hour flight, in the middle of the night and in the rain, will be a little sad... but fate had mercy, a beautiful local girl took me to the parking lot of those very taxis, which was completely invisible at the exit from the terminal for several reasons: it was located in the middle of a regular bus stop; there were no cars on it as such, they drove up one at a time from around the corner; a huge crowd stood near the parking lot, imitating a line, from which people were knocked out along the conveyor and loaded into the approaching cars at the speed of sound on the go. So thank you to this beautiful sweet creature who told me all the features and put me right in the car. Why do I describe all this for so long? Because they don’t write about it on any travel forum, and because you, dear friends, avoided such difficulties : )
Hotel
When choosing a hotel, I was guided, in addition to the standard cleanliness and price, by the proximity of the location to the Forbidden City - the main residence of the Chinese emperors. The choice stopped at King Parkview Hotel (?????? ) No. 55 Sha Tan Hou Street, Dongcheng, Beijing. In general, I was satisfied with the living conditions - the rooms are spacious, well-equipped and clean, the staff is helpful and friendly. The terrace offers a beautiful view of the nearby parks and the roofs of the palace complex. To the exit (! ) of the Forbidden City - 5 minutes walk, to the entrance - 30 minutes (essentially to Tiananmen Square), which is still very convenient in general. Of the minuses: when you exit the hotel, you will see simple Beijing in all its glory; food stalls, street vendors of strange food, shops, wires, slums (+/-), crowds of people. But in fact, you will see all this in any other part of the city, with the exception of the Central Business District and Dongdan district (on the opposite side of Tiananmen Square). The second negative is the kitchen. If you like soy food, fried soy, then this is the place for you. If not, it is better to stock up on yoghurts and snacks in the nearest shop. Oh, and don't forget a couple of eggplants of water. . .
Language
Everywhere only Chinese, even in places of mass congestion of tourists there is little information in English. Prepare in advance, lead the way and learn more online.
Transport
I had Napoleonic plans for sightseeing, but I perfectly understood that I would not be able to navigate in such a transport network, so I firmly decided to use the services of taxi drivers. What was my surprise when, at my request to call a taxi in the near future, the hotel answered me that the application had to be given in advance, and it was impossible to order a car by phone. I tried to catch on the street, no one stopped. Again, sympathetic local guys came to my aid, explaining that a legal taxi can only be called through a special application on a smartphone (I believe that through the likeness of UBER). Indeed, the guys ordered a car for me in 2 minutes, which took me to my destination.
There are all types of public transport in the city, but I did not dare to use them because of the complex schemes and the language barrier. For the next two days, I ordered a guide with a car, which I was very pleased with.
Internet
Facebook, Google, Viber, Skype, What's Up - nothing works. Rather, Viber once nevertheless broke through the protection system, allowing me to contact my relatives. So I had to correspond by e-mail, like in the very old days.
Money
It is better to change at the airport, the rate is not so extortionate, otherwise you will have to go to the bank (working only on weekdays) and fiddle with the exchange procedure
Prices and shopping
An order of magnitude more expensive than ours. “Cheap Chinese consumer goods” cannot be found in decent areas and shops. On the main shopping street - Wang Fu Jing - the main shopping centers are concentrated, where you can buy everything - from good tea to silk and luxury goods.
There are separate areas and shopping centers designed for buyers from the CIS, where you can see the entire range of Chinese markets. But even there the prices are not cheap. As a local guide told me, China is conditionally divided into North and South. In the north - industrially and economically developed - the production of quality goods using European and American technologies is flourishing. These goods go to the domestic market and partly for export to nearby countries. In the south - agricultural and backward in comparison with the north - just a huge number of handicraft manufacturers of low-quality goods are concentrated, which our compatriots order in tons.
Food
Very specific. Nothing to do with the Chinese cuisine that was so popular with us 15 years ago before the capture of the sushi and pizza catering market : ) I had dinner at one of the oldest restaurants of national cuisine in the fashionable Central Business District, as well as at the hotel. Neither there nor there anything tasty for me it ended. Peking duck, tofu, stew with rice - quite specific, spicy, fatty . . The pickled pods of young peas were the most pleasant discovery. The main problem was the aroma of roasted soybeans that wafted from every kitchen. Never before has lunch on an airplane on the way home been so delicious and long-awaited : )
People in general
Very friendly and helpful. Not many people speak English, even young people. In China, domestic tourism is very developed, in which residents primarily travel around the country. Therefore, Beijing is often the first city visited by people from outlying provinces. Do not be surprised that they will stare at you and try to obsessively or not take a picture. How to react is your decision, I decided that it's funny, especially with small children : ) By the way, if you have a European appearance, then you are the standard of beauty, and everyone will also want to say “very beautiful” to you.
And there are a lot of people (more than 21 million people officially). Constantly and everywhere. It feels like being on the subway during rush hour. In addition, with closer communication, the differences in the Eastern worldview from the European one are clearly pronounced. In the spirit of words, if in the European system of values the interests of a particular individual are in the first place, then in the Chinese - the interests of the state are primary, and the actions of the government are supported by the majority unconditionally.
Scammers
This is the first time I'm writing about this, but the question is very serious. The most harmless thing that can happen to you is the "black" guides, who, under the guise of an ordinary walk, will demand money from you. In areas of tourist places, they will offer you seemingly help, for which money may then be required. I wrote about the airport above. Now it's just a story. Halfway to the Forbidden City, a pretty and well-dressed girl called out to me. She was practically the first person to speak to me in English (not including the hotel staff). On the way, she introduced herself as a tourist who arrived in the city today, and struck up a casual conversation. After a few minutes, she offered to continue the conversation in a cafe over a cup of tea. For various reasons, I refused, but the girl nevertheless began to persuade, but after that she fell behind and we said goodbye. After a couple of hours, the situation repeated itself, but slightly differently. 2 girls approached me, talked, and offered to take a walk with them in the park... and I almost agreed, but the phrase "and after that we'll have tea" quickly returned me to a sense of reality and I again refused. This situation happened to me several more times, but I learned not to respond to any appeals to myself, and they quickly lagged behind me.
And now we reveal the cards. This is a very popular "divorce" of tourists. These lovely girls will take you to the café they work for and offer you tea to refresh yourself. You will choose, for example, the simplest or any other tea from the menu... drink tea, continue a nice conversation. And then they will bring you a bill of dollars for 100-200-300, as it turns out that you "ordered" the most expensive and rare tea in a cafe. After you reasonably refuse to pay, the cafe staff will threaten you and call the police. And she will come, and the truth will be on the side of the cafe, as everyone around will testify against you. And you, in addition to the check, will also get in trouble with the police.
This is a very real situation, which the guide told me about later. My friends faced the same thing, and for them it all ended just very unpleasantly.
So be careful and don't let yourself be fooled.
Climate
My trip took place in the height of summer. The temperature was about +35, at times it was pouring with torrential rain (once it started in the evening, ended only at about 10 am, and after 20 minutes there was no trace of the puddles). Humidity is very high, the feeling of a sauna does not leave. Smog. Looks like a dark haze, as if slightly cloudy. In summer, use sunscreen with maximum protection, because due to the smog you don’t feel how bright the sun is, and the skin burns instantly.
Urban contrasts
Beijing is not just one city. It's at least four. Firstly, these are beautiful palaces and fabulous park complexes that convey the full depth of the ancient culture. Secondly, nearby, right there, these are slums, small houses on narrow streets intertwined with wires, bicycles, street vendors, the smell of food... Thirdly, this is the heritage of the USSR - most government institutions were built in the style of Soviet architecture. And fourthly, this is an ultra-modern metropolis with glass skyscrapers and luxury hotels, restaurants, business centers of incredible shapes and scales, where there is not even a hint of China. This is New York or Singapore in the best traditions. If you stay in one of the Central Business District (CBD) hotels, you will not regret it, but it is unlikely that you will feel the real Beijing.
*in the following stories I will talk about each of the important sights that I managed to visit
