Mountain Tale of the Hutsulshchyna

Written: 6 february 2011
Travel time: 31 december 2010 — 7 january 2011
Who does the author recommend the hotel to?: For families with children
Your rating of this hotel:
9.0
from 10
Hotel ratings by criteria:
Rooms: 10.0
Service: 10.0
Cleanliness: 10.0
Food: 10.0
Amenities: 8.0
The sun has long since disappeared below the horizon. It was dark in the interior of the car that was taking away the tired but happy couple from Verkhovyna. And only the headlights of the car illuminated the mountainous, snowy serpentine. The engine of the car lulled them with its rumbling and reminded them that the vacation was coming to its logical conclusion and in a few hours they would be sitting in the carriage of the Ivano-Frankivsk Moscow train. Sometimes, headlight beams snatched out of the darkness people in national Hutsul clothes, who walked along the road. As soon as the car was level with them, people threw up their hands in greeting, one of which tightly squeezed the shaft of the hatchet. The land of the Hutsul region celebrated one of its main holidays - the Birth of Christ.
And it all started back in the summer, when my wife and I started planning the New Year holidays. The main thing was immediately determined - to get away from New Year's, table, long holidays and move on to more active recreation.
A means of escape from the traditional meeting of the New Year is a trip to the mountains. What kind of mountains it will be, it was decided quickly. The Carpathians, the historical homeland of your obedient servant, left no chance for the mountain ranges of the Caucasus, Tien Shan or Altai.

The purpose of the trip is to feel the peculiar culture that has been preserved in the Carpathians and to start skiing.
Verkhovyna is the capital of the Hutsul region, where to this day they strictly observe and honor the customs of their ancestors.
Landscapes of winter alpine lawns, the sounds of trembita, the famous Hutsul cuisine, which, in my opinion, is banush, the presence of a first-class ski resort nearby - Bukovel, the opportunity to acquire the first skiing skills directly in Verkhovyna - all this beckoned and called.
There are many options for staying in Verkhovyna. Looking ahead, I will say that mini-hotels are especially popular in Verkhovyna.
They resemble a mixture of a hotel and a private house. The main feature is - your homestay. You will definitely be asked what you would like for lunch, dinner, etc. The hostess The owner of the mini hotel - they try to keep abreast of your activities on vacation, give practical advice, help.
We stayed in a junior suite at the Povnitsa Hotel. Povnitsa is a bowl where they put, throw, - money to the newlyweds on their wedding day. This is a small and very cozy house on the banks of the Black Cheremosh River. The windows of the hotel offer beautiful views of Mount Pushkar. The rooms are furnished in the style of a Hutsul hut: everything is made of natural wood, on the floor there are handmade rugs made of natural wool and dressed animal skins. There is a large fireplace in the hall, which can be lit at any time and sit in a cozy atmosphere under the crackle of burning firewood.
With special warmth, we remember the hostess - Zoryana, the owner - Roman, and two people who tried to make the rest of the guests comfortable - the cook Olesya and the waiter Roman.

Day 1.
We arrived in Verkhovyna -01.02. 2011. already in the evening. The first INDUCTION for our vacation in Verkhovyna was given to us by Kobilyuk Vasily Alekseevich, who met us at the Ivano-Frankivsk railway station.

The first day, or rather the evening, we spent on recovery after the road. We went to the sauna of the neighboring hotel "Gerdan". "Povnitsa" is developing and plans to soon acquire its own sauna, bar and billiard room. The same evening, we agreed with Roman about a transfer to the ski slope in Iltsy. It is very close to Verkhovyna.

Day 2.
Having had a hearty breakfast in the morning - thanks to Olesya, in anticipation of getting to know alpine skiing, we all loaded into Roman's minivan and set off for Iltsy. Ski equipment was pre-booked.
Having reached the slope, the first test awaited us. Vasily Yuryevich, the person who is responsible for organizing the work of the slope and who, in my opinion, should have opened the locker and removed skis and boots of the sizes we needed from there, ran from the locker room to the locker room, in a slightly tipsy state (apparently relieved stress from time to time) and said he had nothing. He asked him to forgive, and hung a rhetorical question in the air - “What should I do? ". He offered to look for the answer to this question to tourists. By my appearance, he realized that I didn’t have time to search for answers to his charades and, with sin in half, found us suitable skis. Ski rental cost - 35 hryvnia. The desire to compensate us for the morning "kavardash" led to a discount. As a result, the kit cost us 15 hryvnia. I didn't mind and we headed up the slope for our first downhill skiing experience.
The slope itself left, wished to leave the best, bald spots were visible in some places, especially on the upper part of the slope there was a lack of snow, but in order to understand how to stand on skis and manage them, its amount was enough.

The process looked like this: descent for 20-30 seconds, then taking off the skis, climbing the mountain with skis in hand and descending again. The job is quite tedious. There was a drag lift, but we were not up to it. Three hours later, the legs, dressed in ski boots, ached and asked to go home, but the difficulties of this process were perceived with understanding. The main thing is getting skills, the rest was on that day - secondary.
The sun, the purest air, the reduction in the frequency of falls - all contributed to a great mood.

Day three.

The next morning, just like the day before, we went to the same slope in Iltsy to consolidate our skills. Vasily Yurievich, he recognized us, but this did not affect the quality of the equipment.
Now we are not very upset about it. There were even fewer falls, and it was decided the next day to go skiing to Bukovel. In order not to overshadow the rest of the next day, it was decided to rent equipment at the Verkhovyna tourist information center. Vasily Alekseevich, kindly picked everything up and adjusted it.
In the evening we visited the bathhouse, which was located in the private sector of Verkhovyna. This “Russian” bath, which we liked more than the sauna located in “Gerdan”. The steam room is small for 4 people, but there is a lot of space for relaxation: you can play billiards and even plunge into the pool filled with water from a mountain stream. In the bath, the owner Vasily, kindly offered us homemade pies, herbal tea and tincture, of his own production - I recommend it, and after we took water procedures, he conducted a tour of his house, which housed hunting trophies.

Day four.
The rise was early.
At 05-45, a hearty breakfast, and at 7-00 we were sitting in a car that was taking us to Bukovel. Vitaly, the driver of the car, turned out to be a pleasant young man who told stories and answered questions. And all this in the purest, local language. The speech flowed like a mountain river and an hour and a half of the road flew by unnoticed. The main thing is to have time to buy skin passes before 9-00 to get a discount. Half a day skiing on the slopes of Bukovel cost 190 hryvnia. We stopped at a multi-level parking lot, changed clothes and went on to the slope for beginners. We rode on one track for beginners, not risking switching to more difficult slopes. This was facilitated by a clear, sad experience of people who were lowered by rescuers. We didn’t want to take risks, so lift No. 7 suited us just fine. Although the ratio of safety - pleasure on this slope leaves much to be desired. A lot of people who were recently on skis increased the likelihood of an unpleasant collision.

And we switched to more difficult tracks. Lift number 13, delivered a lot of positive minutes. The skiing time flew by quickly and the way back to Verkhovyna flowed under the same stream of Vitaly's speech. When we got to the room, we literally collapsed on the bed, as if someone had turned off the batteries.

Day five.
Dedicated to exploring local attractions. In the afternoon, the women went to get acquainted with the local market. And I took a short walk to the highest point of Verkhovyna - Pushkar. In the evening, Zoryana organized a trip to the Hutsul museum, where grandfather, an elderly Hutsul, demonstrated his skills in playing musical instruments. In the pauses between playing the instruments, he baited various stories from his life, anecdotes, tactfully replacing the word Muscovites with Petersburgers. All in all, an outstanding personality.

Day six.

Return to Bukovel for half a day. . Changed the slopes, a lot of positive emotions.
A plow turning into a traverse, a smooth turn, a stop - were mastered and the implementation of these elements brought pleasure.
Time, as always, passed quickly and imperceptibly.
And in the evening came the main holiday - Christmas.
In each house, a table was laid, at which everyone who lives under one roof gathered. With the onset of evening, caroling begins.
The owner of the house that evening receives the title of Lord and at the Evening utters the first words with the wishes of happiness, he himself goes around all the guests and delivers the first dish of Kutya.
To our Supper, Zoryana invited people who know and observe all the customs of this holiday. They sang songs, introduced them to the traditions, so that everyone felt involved in this holiday.

Day seven
Preparation for departure and evening departure.

Summary:
• For those who wish to touch the Hutsul culture, Verkhovyna is an ideal place.
• In Verkhovyna itself, there are no places where you can go for lunch or dinner. It is best to rely on the kitchen and stove of the hostess of the house where you are staying.
• If possible, plan your activities in advance (trips, hikes, excursions, etc. ). To plan a trip to the mountains - write to Kobilyuk Vasily Alekseevich. To plan a sauna in "Gerdan" or a bath, let's call it "At Vasily's" - it's better to contact Zoryana.

• For those who are planning to start skiing for the first time, in principle an acceptable place. My own experience has shown that the development of the slope in Iltsy contributes to the acquisition of certain skills. In addition to Iltsov, there is a nearby (30 km. ) Vorokhta resort. Well, as soon as they felt confident in their abilities, they immediately went to Bukovel. In Verkhovyna itself, you can rent ski equipment, it will cost less than in Bukovel.
Acceptable quality equipment is located in two places: In the tourist information center, at Kobilyuk Vasily Alekseevich and the rental point in the Center near the store "OUR TERRITORY". The owner of "Povnitsa" Roman can help ensure that on the slope in Iltsy you will be looked after and trained by an experienced instructor. If memory serves, the instructor is a candidate master of sports.
• The most important thing is to take a positive attitude and be proactive.

Once again, many thanks to the people whom fate introduced us to - Zoryana, Roman, Olesya, Roma, Vitaly and Vasily Alekseevich. Family well-being and good luck in business. Verkhovyna - Povnitsa - FOREVER!
Translated automatically from Russian. View original