Hello again, Crimea! - 2
Continued, Starting here:
Arriving for backpacks, we were greeted with an exclamation: "Well, where do you go! " It turns out that the peasant (let's call him Petrovich) had guests who had already left, but the man wanted to continue the banquet. He treated me to five-star Koktebel, which, in modern times, borders on wastefulness. Of the snacks, however, he had only venison stew. I offered to get raw smoked sausage from the backpack. Petrovich ate it with some trepidation, saying that we were bourgeois. We sat very sincerely, but it will soon begin to get dark, and a very narrow and dangerous path leads to the beach, and in this state, yes, with backpacks! She said it out loud. Petrovich told me not to worry. He will show us a place where no forester can find us. Continued. I began to demand that he already showed us his stash. Okay, let's go! Arriving at the place, they found that, indeed, no one would meddle here. And everything would be fine - a small clearing in the shade of centuries-old junipers. But the clearing itself was overgrown with wormwood! I looked at her doubtfully. If at home they left me to spend the night among the sagebrush, by morning they could just dig in. Petrovich asked about the reason for the lack of wild enthusiasm. I explained to him. He did not believe. How so! Young healthy girl, and that's what crap!
Well, okay, there's nothing to do. May I survive! Before, I would not even have doubted - here everything is environmentally friendly and allergies, in theory, should not be. But on our last visit, such nonsense happened. Wandering through the mountains, one of our friends picked something, and after sniffing it, said that it was probably thyme. I took the plant and sniffed it too… What the hell, thyme! It's wormwood! Well, that's all! Half an hour later, my snot flowed into three streams, and then my nasopharynx was so swollen that I could only breathe through my mouth. For three days I was not childishly sausage, but then it passed.
They began to build a house. The tent itself was set up without problems, but it was not possible to attach the tent - it is impossible to hammer in the pegs - a rock. Well, okay! It's warm, but no rain is in the forecast! Slept well that night. And no allergies covered me! True, now you need to go down to the water for about five minutes along the goat path. Not very convenient, but what to do! Even so!
Before leaving, looking through the sights on the site, I discovered that there are three places in the vicinity of the New World, the existence of which I did not even suspect. I had high hopes for this trip to fill these gaps. One of the attractions - the cave monastery, judging by the map, was a stone's throw from our parking lot, so I decided to look for it first. We made our way along a barely noticeable path to the foot of Mount Sokol, a huge sheer cliff hanging over the road. The path took us nowhere. And since the sweetheart was still unwell, I invited him to sit on a log, and I myself went to explore the surroundings. Having climbed through the thickets and found nothing, I thought that there might be a cave higher on the rock. There's a shelf over there! She began to sag on the rock. Having climbed five meters, about half the distance to the ledge, I realized that I had overestimated my climbing abilities. And if I climb even higher, then I can hardly go down. Yes, and from here the descent seemed very problematic. Panicked, she began to squeal like Father Fyodor: take me off, I'll give you your sausage! Then she pulled herself together, and with the help of the sweetheart who came to the rescue, she somehow went down. There is no monastery there! Most likely, there was a mistake with the coordinates.
Let's go for a walk in the New World. In the company store, the shelves were half empty, and the prices for champagne started from 510 rubles! Where's the 385 brut? No, it's over! And now it costs 450! Should be delivered by evening. And I already thought that the plant stopped! Nothing happened. People sweep everything! And indeed, they immediately bought a box of champagne in our presence. Until they brought a "cheap" brut, I persuaded the dear one to drive to the source of St. Anastasia to collect some water. We also learned about the existence of this source relatively recently. In the description of the excursion to Mount Sokol, I saw this name. We climbed this mountain on our own a hundred times, but we did not see any source. Having risen for the hundred and first time, we met a group there, led by a guide, who was asked where it was? He said that's where they were heading and kindly invited us to go with them. Once this source fed the entire village, and even a water conduit was preserved, but now the source was a rather thin stream.
It was very hot, and, wandering up the mountain, I already reproached myself: what for are we going there? I want to go to the sea, but it's over there, far below. When we, wet as mice, finally made it to the longed-for source, our delight knew no bounds! Some truly holy man built a font there! There was nothing like it two years ago! In full human growth, with a ladder for descent. It was necessary to drag her here! There are no problems with stones here, but what about mortar?
The water turned out to be not even icy, 17 degrees, not lower. And cute with his sore back plunged there without any problems. The trickle in the source itself turned out to be somewhat thicker than usual this year. After bathing, drinking and taking water, we went back. On the way I found a dead cicada. I used to think it was something like a grasshopper or a cricket, until one day I found it. It rather resembles a huge fly with golden large wings. And her eyes, like those of a toad, are located on the sides of her head. Then I saw a living one on a tree, but I never saw how it makes sounds. She stood near her for a long time, waiting, but she did not chirp.
Arriving at the store, they asked if they brought brut? Not yet! Well, there was no more strength to wait, I had to take a three-year-old extrabrut for 510 rubles. Well, we never tried it! It was delicious, sincere, and even on TV they began to show the Caucasian captive. In general, the first bottle was followed by the second, and its price no longer mattered! Have we saved on housing? We can now chic! : ))))
People began to catch up and a couple from the Moscow region sat down at our table. They came from Solnechnogorsk (or Malorechensky? ) on an excursion. They took a pink brut Pinot Franc for 520 rubles. And we didn't notice it! After drinking half a bottle, we made a chench with the guys. Pinot Franc was also very tasty. And they, in turn, really liked our extra brew, so they bought both of them with them. According to them, they pay 200 rubles for housing. from the nose. Well, okay! I forgot to say that when we just arrived at the bus station in Sudak, an aunt came up to us with an offer of a “budget”, according to her, option for only 1200 per room!
When we returned to our room, we found the tent safe and sound. We went down to the beach. To the people! And everyone is in swimming trunks! Ugliness! Gave sweetheart therapy with hot stones on the lower back. We talked with the family from Volgograd. They live in Morskoy. They pay 500 rubles. for a triple room, but they live together. Basically, not bad! The prices, according to them, do not please them either. Moreover, they have been to Crimea before. In Volgograd, prices are now lower than here. In Crimea, they are now simply Moscow! The guys came by car. The ferry took them 3 hours. In principle, not fatal.
And the prices, of course, are simply terrifying! Peaches - 100 rubles! Watermelons - 25! Let's eat at home! Figs were seen at 200. It seemed expensive, so they didn’t buy it, but in vain! It turned out that it was very cheap. Average price 350! In general, prices can vary significantly in the same market. For example, tomatoes were 40 each, and there were 150 each! The 40s were pink and delicious. And what were those that at 150 I don’t even guess!
Well, the biggest sadness is, of course, wine! Many points in Sudak, which traded on tap, were redesigned. Now there are hairdressers or pharmacies. In the Sun Valley brand store there is a “kind” sign: “There is no draft wine, and there will be no tomorrow, and there will never be! ”. By the way, apparently it will. On the way home, I heard a conversation between a driver and a passenger that, allegedly, old stocks are still being sold, and then the factories will generally stop releasing such a format. And the prices for bottled wine are just off scale. (I specially took a picture of a window with wines from Solnechnaya Dolina and Massandra. ) Nevertheless, the Russians buy everything, cars are loaded to capacity.
Woke up at night from a roar. Waking up, they thought that we were at home and Grads were shooting again. It turned out that a thunderstorm had begun. They began to hastily pull the awning over the tent. But I managed to just put it on top without pulling it. Fortunately, the rain did not last very long, and did not have time to wet it. And a little more and we would have been flooded. Oh those weather forecasters! No rain was expected. Despite such weather, the sounds of music could be heard from the Sudak fortress until dawn! However, just like last night. And this is for 6 km! How do people live there?
In the morning, after swimming, she again dragged the poor stunted man into the mountains. I wanted to find a second attraction - the ruins of something there on Mount Perchem. I'm generally indifferent to ruins, but I'm interested in finding something myself. I heard about their existence before, and although we went up there twice already, somehow they were not found. The fact is that Perch (the highest mountain above Sudak) has several peaks and I was too lazy to reach the extreme one, on which, apparently, there were ruins. And so, here we found another source of water and ritual structures made of stones - the Temple of the Spirit and a seven-level labyrinth.
Our path ran, again, through the source of Anastasia. On the way we met a group of people with five-liter jars filled with water. Not like we, with our two-liter! Arriving at the source, they realized that sweet health would not be enough to sip on Perch. The source is not even halfway, but somewhere in one third. After thinking, we decided to postpone the ascent until better times, but for now it is better to walk along a new, previously untraveled path, which, presumably, leads to Karaul-Oba and does not have sharp rises. The people we met at the spring were asked if she would lead us there. To which they answered in the affirmative. Only, they said, it is rather complicated.
The trail went around the village through the mountains and turned out to be not that difficult, just quite dangerous in several places. But everything new is always interesting! We met a bridge, apparently built under Golitsyn. The cacti that grew everywhere were shriveled and ugly now. The cactus once taken out from here has perfectly taken root in our country house, has grown obscenely, is not at all afraid of our frosts and blooms with many yellow flowers every summer. Each of which, however, blooms for only one day. But there are a lot of them! We water our cacti, so they do not wrinkle, but on the contrary - they are so fat! But I have never been here in June and, of course, it would be interesting to look at flowering cacti in wild, so to speak, conditions.
True, we did not go to Karaul-Oba. The road began to take somewhere uphill. We decided not to go further, but to go down to the village through the juniper grove. After lunch in the USSR, we went to our place. Fighters flew over the sea with a wild roar. They dressed up like flies on glass - and barrels and slides and Nesterov's loops! Unpleasant!
The next day, the darling asked for a rest day, and we went to Sudak just for a walk. We walked to the water park to inquire about prices. From 14.00 to 18.00 - 1200 rubles! Boat trip to the royal beach with swimming - 550! Excursion to Yalta on a boat - 1600! Yes!
We have one favorite place in Sudak - on the balcony above the beach overlooking the fortress, there are concrete tables where you can drink beer from glass goblets with your fish. True, the beer here is somewhat more expensive than the average. So what! We are chic! : )))). Having bought a relatively inexpensive (350 rubles / kg) some kind of smoked mariella in a fish shop, we sat down in our favorite place. The fish turned out to be very tasty. But with kvass, with which I washed it down, of course, not that! But I held on! And the darling, finally, sailed away, felt quite healthy, therefore, the next day we planned a trip to Karaul-Oba.
But fate decreed otherwise. In the evening it turned out that the onion mountain had managed to get hurt! Yes, what is it! Not cholera, so diarrhea! Ate all the same! Probably the body has not yet grown strong after a cold, so any infection sticks! Apparently, she was sitting in a fish! Having devoured a horse's dose of dry wormwood at night, by morning all the symptoms were stopped. There was only wild weakness and shortness of breath. But you must go! We hoped, as always, to leak free of charge, but it was already half past eight and the forester sat in ambush just on the way of our route. He was extremely polite. I had to give him hard-earned 200 rubles. for the entrance. Eh, I should have left sooner. But he gave us a check and said that you can walk on it all day everywhere, even on the Tsar's Beach, even on the Golitsyn Trail. We asked, what, are they already allowed on the Royal Beach? Imagine yes! It has been closed for the last few years because it has simply turned into a dump. And the water, supposedly the purest, because of the huge number of motorboats and heat boats, was all in fuel oil. One friend told me that having sailed there in a kayak, he could barely wash the bottom!
While the path was straight, my poor thing was still somehow trudging along. But when it became necessary to drape up the mountain, he simply wilted. Leaving him to cool under a pine tree, she ran on, at least with one eye to look at her favorite places. Too far, however, did not go. She only reached Golitsyn's bench, but did not go down to heaven or hell. Let's go back. We wanted to go down to the Royal Beach, but we would not be able to go back up. So we went to the village. It was disgusting for the sweetheart to even think about food, he only wanted to drink and lie down. Gone man! With great difficulty, finding a piece of shade under the stairs on the village beach and leaving him to sleep there, she ran back to the Golitsyn trail. After going through it all and swimming in the Robber's Bay, after an hour and a half she returned back. Taking her misfortune, she took him home.
We began to think what to do next? Probably, it is necessary to leave (two days earlier than planned). Having called, I found out that there were still places on the bus for tomorrow and said that we would go if anything. Only, will the chakhlyk be able to drag a backpack tomorrow, this is a question. Of course, we emptied it a little - we ate almost all the canned food and sausage, and drank two liters of cognac with the help of Petrovich. The last pollitrushka was presented to our benefactor. In general, it took five kilograms, but still, the backpack remained unbearable. Okay, we decided to look at the circumstances in the morning. But if I'm leaving tomorrow, why don't I go to a champagne tasting? We planned to go there, of course, together, but if that's the case, I'll go alone.
About ten years ago, I was on this tour followed by a tasting. But then I was still young and inexperienced in wine, and I liked champagne in general, and not any particular brand, and the fact that the next morning after this champagne my head simply fell off was taken for granted. Then I still loved semi-sweet, but brut just skewed me. And now this undemanding creature came to the tasting at the ZShV "New World". I don’t remember much of the details, I only remember that at the very end of the tasting they served champagne of some absolutely crazy aging - 15-18 years old. So what? At that time, it was tantamount to throwing beads in front of pigs. Didn't appreciate it. Well, champagne!
After these ten years, I have matured. Years of abuse have taken their toll. Now, on the contrary, I drink only brut, and it warps me from semi-sweet. And only champagne made in the traditional way, not soda. And there were only 4 factories producing this divine drink in the indicated way in the vastness of the Union - Artemovsky and Novosvetsky in Ukraine, Abrau-Dyurso in Russia and Cricova in Moldova. In short, I again wanted to taste.
At the factory's checkout a couple of days earlier I read that there are several types of excursions. Historical (400 rubles) with a tasting of 6 varieties of champagnes and sparkling wines; Tsarskaya (700 rubles) with a tasting of 6 varieties of elite sparkling wines (well, this is quite expensive) and Brutherian (450 rubles) with a tasting of 6 varieties of brut. This is the last one I chose. Ticket sales start 15 minutes before the start of the tour. But, having arrived at 17.45, I was terribly disappointed - today there was a historical excursion, and the Bruterian will be tomorrow, and tomorrow we will probably leave. I had to go to the historical and drink anything.
Well, in the first part of the tour, we were first taken around the factory yard, where everything is made from empty champagne bottles - flower beds, a hefty bottle, a palm tree and even a Christmas tree. Then they led me through the cellars, which had a total length of 7 km! The temperature there is low and you need to have a blouse with you. They talked about the hard manual labor of women, of whom the majority work, since men are at risk. Although it would be very risky for me, for example, to work there too. So, in one day, each worker must turn or shift or shake (depending on the type of operation) several thousand bottles! In addition, those who shake the bottles work in metal visors and overalls, because the wine in the bottle is under pressure, so as not to lie, it seems 16 atmospheres. And the bottles often explode right in your hands. Tin!
Then we went to the enoteca. Despite the fact that the bottles stored in it were naturally corked, the smell there was simply divine! The guide translated to us the motto of the plant from Latin "Vir est vis" - "It was, is and will be. " And he said that the plant staff interprets it in its own way - we drank, we drink and we will drink! Oh, people live! And they drink, according to the same guide, exclusively brut cuvé e. Lip no fool! I somehow didn’t see it in the store, and I can’t even imagine how much it can cost.
And finally, the final part of the tour - tasting! We were led to an elegant hall with a huge table, the tabletop of which is made in the form of jasper, with glasses already arranged, one-third filled, and vases with cookies for a snack. Since the company was more than solid (50 people), I didn’t have to drink alone, and no one could accuse me of alcoholism. Next to me was a young couple from Perm. The girl, looking into her glass, said that there was some kind of film. Her companion went and brought her another, but this one was set aside. The first champagne to be tasted was the extrabrut we had already tasted. I quickly drank it (what to drink there? ) And decided to see what kind of film there is in the set aside glass. I didn’t find anything suspicious, and I told my neighbor that I would drink it if she didn’t mind. And she says, let's divide and leave this glass - let them pour it into it too. So they did. Every time the guide came up to us to pour another portion, we started asking him some questions so that he would not notice that one glass was extra. However, we were not the only ones who were so cunning - one company in the corner complained loudly that they had not been poured, although it was clear from their cunning faces that they had already had time to drink.
After the extra brut there was a white semi-dry, then a white semi-sweet (brr), then a pink semi-dry, then some more semi-dry, and for a snack there was again brut, this time red. In general, the evening passed in a relaxed friendly atmosphere. Unfortunately, as often happens, the batteries on the camera ran out, and the pictures turned out far from all : ((((
Thanks to our trick, I drank about half a bottle, which, in principle, is categorically small, but it was still pleasant, and I even felt some euphoria.
After the tasting, those who wished could buy their favorite varieties of champagne in the company store on the territory of the factory. Only the "special prices" promised in some advertisement for the tour were not there. Prices were the same as in other company stores in the village. Apparently the ad was old. But the range was much wider. And brut for 450 was available! But I didn't buy it. And who will carry?
When I was already approaching the place where I needed to turn onto the path leading to our camp, a car pulled up next to me, in which my pleasant tasting neighbors were sitting. They offered to give me a lift, but I said that I had already arrived, which, apparently, put them in a dead end - there was no housing nearby. I wonder how this guy who drank champagne dared to drive?
Arriving at the base, I discovered that 33 misfortunes managed to break through the mattress with a knot! Ah-ah-ah-ah! What is it doing! This last night, like the first, we slept practically on the bare ground.
The next morning, dear, after a good night's sleep, in spite of everything, it was quite heavy, so I called the driver back and confirmed the reservation on the bus. How I didn't want to leave! But there was no point in staying, you can’t climb mountains. What if it gets bad again? And how many places have not been seen, how many kilometers have not been wound, how much champagne has not been drunk!
Having said goodbye to Petrovich, we left at 7.30 by the first bus coming from Novyi Svet. We got home without the slightest problem, crossing the border in an hour.
That's how stupid our little vacation was! Of the 6000 rubles we spent, not counting the road, according to my simple calculations (we bought almost nothing), we spent almost half on beer, kvass and water!
I know, I know, many people are now gloating, like, but it was not good to go there! But is it really an alcoholic's fault for being an alcoholic? Well, it's his fault, of course, but he's just sick! We are sick too! And it seems to be incurable. But in the summer, we probably won't go again. Off-season only!
The photos are mostly fresh, but there are also old ones.