Global
Add a review
Hotel review
Travel story
Attraction review
Question to tourists
Forum thread

Part two. Notable.

01 March 2013 • Travel time: with 23 February 2013 on 24 February 2013
Reputation: +6112.5
Add a Friend
Send message

I wrote the first part (discussion by hotel) under the impression of 2 days in Western Ukraine in Ukrainian. But since my native language is Russian, I will continue on it.

THE ROAD started with departure from Zhytomyr at 9.00. Route: Zhytomyr-Novograd-Volynsky-Korets-Rivne-Lutsk. We arrived quickly. The road from Novograd to Rivne is just a highway compared to all other highways in the country. I think that if a "crooked sucker" rides on it, they are very surprised by the dissatisfaction of fellow citizens with the work of Ukravtodir. In Rivne, the road is worse, broken by trucks, but not critical. On the way out of Rivne we had lunch at the OKKO gas station in the A la minute restaurant. I, as always, really liked it. Everything is fresh, very decent portions, great service. Yes, quite expensive. But there is confidence that you will not have to eat lunch with medication))). Attention: this gas station had the cleanest public toilet (sorry for the physiological details!


) of all I have ever seen in Ukraine.

The touch sensor is triggered by a raised hand and in front of your eyes the seat automatically rotates with plastic wrap, ie you can sit down absolutely safely. Well, the funny stickers on the walls of the booth like "Sneaky Tree" or "Let's raise the level of the world's oceans" (the second - maybe not exactly, but like that) delight the heart and eye both during the process and after. * Smiling * Once I got a lot out of lunch and the toilet.

THE STORY "WHAT-TO-SEE-IN-LUTSK-IN TWO-DAYS" turned out to be much more interesting than "where to spend the night". It turned out that there is something to look at in Lutsk, and this "what" is not so little there. As in all cities that to some extent position themselves as tourist cities, Lutsk has an information and tourist center.

It is located on Lesya Ukrainka pedestrian street (if you go down from the Central Department Store - it will be on the right in the middle of the street).

There you can get a free map of the city with all the historical monuments and a brief description of them. By the way, it was not possible to buy a card of monuments in any Soyuzdruk kiosk of printed publications. And personally, such things help me a lot. Although, as a rule, before the trip I always defend (or "furrow"? ) The Internet, collect information about the city I go to, about its sights and history, there - description of hotels, there - description of food, schedule and routes public transport, etc. I am printing my personal "Michelin" in the form of a brochure and - go ahead!

This time in Lutsk I didn't have much time. On the first day - 2 museums, and on the second day - one (but what! ).

Since we arrived on Saturday afternoon and my companion went about his business, I was completely devoted to myself and decided not to rush to spend time with everything that caught my eye.


One of the central streets of Lutsk is Svobody Avenue, at the end of the avenue is the Central Department Store (more about it below). Directly opposite the Central Department Store on the Theater Square is the Holy Trinity Cathedral, 1752-1755. According to the Internet, it was originally a Catholic Bernardine monastery. Rebuilt into a cathedral in 1877-1879, designed by arch. Gizhitsky. Today it is the cathedral of the Volyn eparchy of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church of the Kyiv Patriarchate. The church was built on the site of the ancient wooden church of the Holy Cross (the first mention of it dates back to 1585), founded according to some sources by Polish King Stefan Batory. The land near the church was bought in 1643 by the wife of the Zemstvo judge Agnieszka Pashinska, donating them to the Order of Bernardines.

In 1720, the Vilnius mayor Karl Radziwill founded a new stone defensive monastery in the form of a semicircle on the site of a wooden one, donating 40.000 zlotys for the monastery and 16.000 zlotys for the church.

In 1737 the construction of the church began. At the beginning of the 19th century, the monastery housed the residence of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Lutsk, Casper Tsetsyshevsky. The monastery looked so luxurious then that the Russian Emperor Alexander I stayed there several times during his visits to Lutsk. The Bernardine monastery was abolished in 1853. The church became a parish and operated until 1867. In 1867 it became an Orthodox church, first military and then cathedral. Then all the Catholic decoration of the church was abolished. After the closure of the monastery, it housed first a prison, then a magistrate and a gymnasium. The cathedral was consecrated in an Orthodox rite on September 4.1880.

In the period between the world wars (when Lutsk was part of Poland), the monastery housed a public library and the Volyn Voivodeship Administration. After the Second World War, the police department and the NKVD investigation department were located here.

Later - the historical faculty of the Pedagogical Institute and the Volyn Theological Seminary, liquidated in 1964. In 1992, it was transferred to the non-canonical UOC-KP. Today, the monastery houses a restored seminary, St. Basil's Convent, a church shop, as well as a secular institution - a library, publishing house, photo studio and others. The most valuable monument of modern interior is a gilded two-row oak iconostasis of the XVII century from the Exaltation of the Cross (Brotherly) Church in the Old Town.


The main element of the iconostasis is the openwork royal gate, which depicts the Annunciation and the four evangelists. On both sides of the gate are traditionally depicted Jesus Christ and the Mother of God, as well as icons of Jesus the Teacher, the Virgin Hodegetria, St. Olga and St. Vladimir, Saints Cyril and Methodius. Among the most valuable icons of the church are the Cathedral of the Russian Saints and the Exaltation of the Cross of the 19th century.

In front of the cathedral, on the side of the square, is the stone gate of 1904, and next to them a small cemetery - the remains of the former Bernardine cemetery. The bell tower of the Holy Trinity Cathedral has 9 bells. The oldest was cast in 1820. The heaviest weighing 2.5 tons was cast in Moscow in 1890. The biggest bell dates back to 1907.

Unfortunately, I did not take any photos.

It was very cold, and once I was too lazy to get the camera out of my backpack, I thought I would take a picture on the way back, and then I froze, and it was no longer for photos. In my opinion, the temple is not so big inside. Quite an ascetic decoration (that is, all the above beauties passed me by somehow). Special details could not be considered, perhaps because the wedding took place in the temple, and did not want to interfere with its tourist interest in the sacred sacrament.

I liked that at the end of the process, the father went out on the porch with guests and young people, where they were photographed by a local photographer who was adapting to the cold winds). I once did not see this in our Orthodox churches.

Then - down Lesya Ukrainka. Pedestrian street, in my opinion, nothing remarkable. Street musicians, cafes, restaurants, shops ...

Although it is possible that something is worthwhile and escaped my attention "upset".

On the way to Lutsk Castle is the so-called Sharitok Monastery, XVII century. "Monastery of the Balls" is the name of the houses at 17 and 19 Cathedral, and does not reflect the ancient purpose of the buildings. Built on the site of an ancient cathedral. Today it is the curia of the Lutsk Roman Catholic Diocese and the residence of the Bishop of Lutsk. There is also a Maltese relief service. The Monastery of Balls is an architectural monument of national importance.


The U-shaped building of the monastery consists of two parts: the left (western) wing - st. Cathedral, 17 - built in the XV-XVI centuries. Right (east) wing - st. Cathedral, 19 - a consequence of reconstruction after the fire of the XVIII century. The walls are decorated with pilasters (who knows what it is ?! ), the windows have platbands, window sills and window sills. A one-storey house is attached to the east.

The fact that on the north side in the middle there is a pentagonal risalit, resembling a tower, I read on the way back in my "target" (although the meaning of the words "risalit" I also do not know, but what it sounds like! ). Just on the day of the walk around Lutsk, as I said, there was a very strong cold wind, and somehow it did not contribute to the careful consideration of architectural details. Well, nothing, maybe in the spring and summer the weather will be luckier. The fact that I will come here again is clear.

On the contrary - a very beautiful and majestic Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, 1639, arch. Giacomo Briano.

I learned from the Internet that the church was originally built as a Jesuit church at the monastery. After the fire of the cathedral church in 1781, the chair of the Catholic bishop was moved here. Today it is the current Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Lutsk Diocese. It was built in 1616-1639 as a church at the Jesuit monastery.

In 1773, in connection with the liquidation of the Jesuit order, the church and the board were transferred to the commission of public education, and after the fire of the cathedral in 1781 at the request of Bishop Lutsk moved here the chair of the Catholic bishop (received the status of the cathedral only in 1787). At this time, repair and construction work is underway, as a result of which the facade and interior acquire new stylistic features. The interior is richly decorated with sculptures, sculptures, pilasters, as well as paintings by Kunitz, Villani and Prchtel. Under the church there are basements located on several levels.

In 1948 the cathedral was closed and used as a warehouse, from 1970 to 1991 it housed the Museum of Atheism (a branch of the Volyn Museum of Local Lore). In the early 90's the cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church, in 1991 it was rededicated. The bell tower, in 1539, belonged to the burned Trinity Cathedral.


Well, finally everyone knows Lutsk Castle, XIII-XIV centuries. defensive structure, a symbol of the city. In 2011, according to the results of the action "Seven Wonders of Ukraine" Lutsk (or otherwise) the Upper Castle took first place

Entrance ticket costs 10 hryvnias. (For independent), UAH 30. (For group) excursions. Open from 9:00 to 17:00. The ticket price includes a self-guided tour of the castle, you can climb all the wooden stairs and ceilings, from the loopholes to admire the panorama of the city. The ticket also entitles you to visit the museum of bells, the museum of books, the prison and, fourthly, it flew out of my head. The bell museum is not very interesting.

As early as the 11th century, a wooden fortification was built on the castle hill - the first castle that lasted two centuries and was later replaced by a stronger stone one. Lutsk Castle was built for more than forty years. First, the towers were built: Vyizna, Styrova (above the river Styr), Vladycha, then the walls were completed.

The perimeter of the defensive walls, with towers at the corners, went to the edge of the hill. On the west side was the entrance to the castle, which passed through the drawbridge and the gate tower. The height of the tower, originally three-tiered, was increased by two more tiers in the 16th century, and at the beginning of the 17th century its top was topped with an attic. On the main facade of the Entrance Tower - above the modern opening wide and narrow walled arches: it is an ancient entrance and entrance (gate) to the castle, which were equipped with drawbridges.

South-eastern corner tower, square in plan, located above the river Styr (Ukr.

Styr), and therefore called Styrova, originally also had three tiers.

In the 16th century another tier was added to it, and at the beginning of the 17th century it was crowned by an attic. The height of the Bishop's Tower, located at the northern corner of the fortress, was also increased by one tier.


In the 15th century, the castle's defensive walls were modernized and adapted to the use of firearms. In some areas, the height of the walls was increased and the openings were bricked up. They were replaced by two or three rows of loopholes, which were accessed through wooden covered galleries. The whole castle complex was built of brick.

To this day, the prince's house, which once adjoined the southern part of the walls, has not survived. In its place in 1789, when the castle lost its defensive significance during the partition of Poland (1772.1793, 1795), a house of the so-called "noble (noble) house" was built. It was a one-story building covered with a sloping roof with folds.

The Cathedral of St. was also destroyed. Ivan.

At the beginning of the XIX century in the northern part of the castle was built an episcopal palace in the style of classicism.

After gaining enough weight, looking at the different differences, I came to the conclusion that it is necessary to move smoothly from SPIRITUAL VALUES TO MATERIAL ones. And my further path lay in the Central Department Store. It seems to me that nowhere is it possible to get into the culture of the city as quickly as in the largest shopping center. I suppose that there are still markets in Lutsk, and they are even more significant in this respect. But the frost left me no choice. So here it is. Lutsk Central Department Store is notable for many things. In addition to the fact that it was possible to warm up in a banal way, it houses the first fast food healthy food in Ukraine - fast food restaurant "Dumplings HERE". I also learned about him online. They write that all dumplings are molded by hand, you can take them with you. I will not lie, I did not eat. But I saw how many people there!

So, really, the place is good.


I also really liked the residents of Lutsk (I don't know how right, Lutsk residents, probably? ). Everyone is very friendly, no one is in a hurry, for 2 days on the street did not hear a word, including from young people. When you go to the store - and it does not matter, it's something pathetic or just a small shop with inexpensive goods - be sure to greet you, ask what they can help, but will not stand over the soul. If you are interested in something, you will be offered: "Well, measure yourself! ”(I have heard this phrase several times, probably such a local common expression). And you can measure the whole store - no one scornfully purses his lips if you go without buying anything. I bought my mother a gift, just a souvenir, a ceramic jar.

The girls from the department, learning that it was for MOTHER, offered to pack it well, tied it with a silk bow and explained: “It will cost only a hryvnia, but it is for mum, she will be happy! ”.

I myself was pleased with these words. I was shocked at the Central Department Store in the embroidery department. Of course, I've seen such departments in stores before. But for the first time in my life I saw a full house in such a department. All the time someone was buying something, trying it on, etc. A large range, of course, factory embroidery, but very good things. There are embroidered shirts (UAH 550.00) and wives. and husband. There are sheets (real national skirts). There are children's things. There are knitted sundresses with ethnic motifs. The seller, also dressed in the national style, explained to me that it is very popular for them to wear embroidered shirts, for example, to weddings. Okay, right?

A CULTURAL SHOCK caught up with me the next morning.

Somewhat depressed by the impression of the hotel business in Lutsk (this was probably the only negative in 2 days, and even then - not a negative, but a negative), I went to the Museum of Volyn Icon with a unique collection of icons from all over Volyn. And it was something!

The museum is located on the street behind the main building of Volyn University, in a new modern building. Just think - 3 floors, several halls and in each - icons almost to the height of a man of beauty is simply incredible. The entrance ticket costs UAH 15. Weekends: Wednesday and Saturday. The most impressive was the guide's story about (again rubbing from the net) "the priceless pearl of the museum - Kholm Miraculous Icon of the Mother of God, a unique monument of Byzantine art of XI-XII centuries, one of the most revered Christian shrines. A separate hall has been set up for the icon, where all the conditions for access and worship of the shrine have been created.


The Museum of the Volyn Icon is a branch of the Volyn Museum of Local Lore. Opened in Lutsk in August 1993. The museum represents an original regional school of Volyn icon painting. The museum has more than 1 collection.

5.000 monuments of sacred art, including more than 600 icons of the XVI-XIX centuries, metal objects (salaries of icons, church utensils, icons), decorative carvings (royal gates, kiosks of icons) and sculptures. A separate group consists of icons of the late XVIII-early XX centuries, seized at Volyn customs during an attempt to smuggle abroad.

Among the masterpieces of Volyn iconography are the icons "Savior in Glory" of the XVI century, "Yuri Zmieborets with life" of 1630, "Savior Almighty" of the first half of the XVII century, works of Iov Kondzelevich "Savior Almighty" of the XVII century, "Prophets", "St. George". early XVIII century.

The museum exhibits original examples of decorative carvings and sculptures of Volhynia of the XVII-XVIII centuries: the royal gate, crucifixes, figurines of angels and saints.

All this makes a magical impression. I am sure that if I come to Lutsk again, I will definitely look like this museum.

From what we have not seen, but be sure to look at the trail. time:

Intercession Church, one of the oldest churches, built in the XIII-XV centuries. Prince Vytautas (Witold). The church was reconstructed in 1873-76. Until 1962 the church had an ancient icon of the Volyn Mother of God.

2. Dominican Monastery, 1390

3. Church of the Exaltation of the Cross, 1619

4. Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, 1639 - I would like to visit inside, because it is a functioning Roman Catholic church

5. Brigid Monastery, 1624. Built in the palace of the XVI century. In 1846 the monastery was closed, and its premises were turned into a prison, and there was a music school.

Today it is a male Orthodox monastery of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church of the Kyiv Patriarchate.

6. Synagogue, XIV-XV centuries. Architectural monument of national importance.

7. House of Gulevich, XVI century. , a unique example of residential architecture

8. Lutheran Church, beg. XX century , built in neo-Gothic style on the foundations of the Carmelite monastery


9. Architect Golovan's house = Lutsk "house with chimeras".

This is the capital of Volyn, with a short sarcastic smile. Thank you to everyone who read this opus to the end.

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
To add or remove photos in a story, go to album of this story
Similar stories
Comments (10) leave a comment
Show other comments …
avatar

© 2006–2024 TurPravda.com — Help • Advertising • Hotel owners • Export information • Privacy Policy • Terms of use

TurPravda - reviews of tourists about hotels | Rating of hotels and resorts according to tourist reviews

Hundreds of hotel reviews of all popular resorts are presented to your attention.You will learn the whole truth about hotels "first hand".The opinions of real tourists about hotels and resorts will help you make a decision about choosing a hotel.Read reviews of tourists - use the experience of other travelers!