Podolsk Journey (Chernivtsi - Khotyn - Bakota - Kamyanets-Podilskyi)
Why Chernivtsi:
The May holidays were approaching, and with them sunny days, which I really wanted to spend outside the house. Because a large-scale vacation was planned later, it was decided to spend a couple of days off on the territory of our vast Motherland. Lviv, Odessa, Carpathians-Transcarpathia, Crimea, Kamenetz-Podolsky and so on. have been extensively explored in the past. I wanted to relax in a town that would be within reach for a car (from Kyiv), had interesting architecture and history + minimal tourist infrastructure. Therefore, it was decided to visit Chernivtsi. In addition to other advantages of the trip (which will be described later), I want to add that the route from Kyiv passes through Kamenetz and Khotyn, so we managed to diversify the trip with rest in these tourist places.
Kyiv - Zhytomyr - Khmelnitsky (2 options, I will describe below) - Kamenetz - Khotyn - Chernivtsi. – about 510 km one way. The full route turned out to be 1200 km.
Kyiv - Zhytomyr - no comment , Zhytomyr - Khmelnitsky - Kamenetz - expected the worst, Kamenetz - Khotyn - there is no road, in no case do not go along the district of Khotyn, pits - wheel deep, Khotyn - Chernivtsi - tolerable.
"There" went from Zhitomir through Berdichev and Khmelnyk to Khmelnitsky, back - from Khmelnitsky through Lyubar and Chudnov to Zhytomyr (along the H-03 highway). In terms of mileage, the distance is almost the same, in terms of condition it is expensive too. But on the way back from Chudnov to Zhytomyr, there is simply no coverage... at all...
So early in the morning at dawn we left Kyiv. After 8 hours of not too easy road we were met by Chernivtsi. The town turned out to be compact, easy to navigate. Settled in the hotel "Kaiser" near the railway station. The hotel corresponds to the realities of domestic 3 *. I won’t praise, just like I won’t scold - you can spend the night for one night (although we originally planned 2). I would like to highlight a pretty restaurant, immersed in greenery. This is a separate and main plus of the hotel. To the historical center 5 minutes by taxi (fare - 10 UAH : ). Before the trip, we downloaded a tourist route from the tourist site of Chernivtsi - for which I want to say a separate “thank you! ” its creators (http://www. trip. cv. ua/maps_ukr. php ). We decided to start our walk from the Residence of the Metropolitans, which now houses the Chernivtsi University. Having walked for a start on our own, we ordered an excursion with a guide (20 UAH / person - the guide gathers a group every half an hour in the temple on the territory of the University). We were led through the inner halls, told in detail about the history of creation, after which we took a walk in the arboretum (in the backyard). We were impressed by the architecture (Vienna came to mind - after all, the Austrians built) and the harmonious combination of nature and stone. Then we went along the route to the Theater Square, Town Hall, st. Kobylyanska (where we had lunch), pl. Philharmonic and Turkish Square. In general, somewhere in 5-6 hours we went around all the sights and enjoyed the beautiful city.
After drinking morning coffee (the morning started a bit late : ) and listening to the trumpeter at exactly 12.00 near the Town Hall, we went to Khotyn. Photo for memory, beautiful nature, a couple of souvenirs and we are on the road again (at the very least, we still spent 2 hours). We are heading towards Kamenets, and from there along the missing bad road to Bakota. On the highway upon arrival in Kamenets from the side of Khotyn at the second traffic light - to the right - this is the road to Staraya Ushitsa. About an hour on the way, and you will see (if you follow the road! ) A sign "monastery", turn off the road and another 20 minutes along the dirt road. But what will appear to your eyes is worth it!!!
Today, Bakota is conventionally called the places along the banks of the Dniester, located next to the remains of the monastery. According to meteorologists, in this area there is a kind of unique microclimate - the average annual amount of heat per 1 sq. m. here it is equivalent to Yalta, and rocks and forests protect the Dniester coast from northern air currents. The picturesque nature and romantic image of these places attract numerous streams of pilgrims and travelers. In recent years, Bakota has become a mecca and a haven for fans of "role-playing games" and followers of numerous exotic religions.
Rock monastery of Bakota:
Archaeological excavations show that since ancient times, along the banks of the Dniester, this place has been home to many pagan sanctuaries and temples, as well as burial mounds for women, which indicates that these territories have been densely populated since prehistoric times. There is also a legend, partially confirmed by underwater research, about a seven-foot stone imprint of the Buddha's foot, which is now at the bottom of the Smotrich River.
The first mention of a rock monastery was recorded in the Kievan chronicle of 1362, where it is mentioned as “long-standing”. The founder of the monastery was the Monk Elder Anthony (the founder of the Kiev-Pechersk Lavra). According to the Ipatiev chronicle, in 1255 the Mongol-Tatars took possession of the city. The monks and residents of the city hid from the attackers in the labyrinth of monastery caves. The invaders offered to leave, surrender and renounce the faith, but not having achieved success in the negotiations, they covered the exit with huge stones, thereby burying the population alive in its shelter. In 1258, the Bakota castle was destroyed by the Tatars. During the last centuries of its existence, life in Bakot was calm and measured. In the early 1960s, the service in the church of the monastery was stopped. The last monks died or left for other monasteries. Icons, crosses and books were destroyed, the church was destroyed.
The history of Bakota ended in 1981, when during the construction of the Novodnestrovskaya hydroelectric power station, the population was evicted to neighboring cities, and the settlement itself was completely flooded with water. In 1996, the collapse of the upper cliff of the White Mountain destroyed the bulk of the caves and tombs with wall paintings and frescoes of the 11th-13th centuries. Only in one place are the remains of cells and burial places of monks, a few ruins of St. Michael's Church and abandoned fruit orchards.
The incredible beauty of the nature of Bakota is difficult to convey with the help of amateur photographs, but I will still try... I hope you enjoy it.
We spent the rest of the day in Bakota. Tired, but happy, we went to Kamenets, where the proven Gala Hotel was waiting for us. I can say that since 2008 there has been less “soulfulness”, but still the level of the hotel remains worthy. Good rooms, beautiful territory (it was built up too much), very tasty cuisine.
Finally, there is no need to go anywhere we devoted this day completely to Kamenets. A leisurely walk through the Old Town and the castle took almost the whole day. In the final, we decided to take a ride on the Ferris wheel, which offers an interesting view of the city. I will not write much about the city, because it is well known to tourists.
Day 4. The road home took 6 hours.
And finally: Chernivtsi was the main purpose of the trip, and we were very pleased that we visited this beautiful city! In general, the trip turned out to be very eventful, but not boring, so I recommend this route to everyone.
I will gladly answer your questions. Have a good rest everyone : )
