Odessa is still waiting (End)
And not only Odessa. Mysterious Bessarabia, a region stretching between two great rivers - the Dniester and the Danube, is ready to reveal its secrets.
A minibus slowly drives through the streets of the city of Belgorod-Dnestrovsky. Probably, it is no different from many provincial towns in our country. And only when, quite unexpectedly, an old fortress opens up before you, you begin to realize its uniqueness. Next to the central gate, just down the slope are archaeological excavations. The cleared foundations of houses erected in ancient times appear before the eyes of the curious.
What attracts people to these lands, probably, no one will say. But already more than a hundred thousand years ago, the hearths of Neanderthals were already burning here. Then there were Cimmerians, Scythians, Greeks. It is believed that it was the latter, and for the most part they were immigrants from Miletus, who founded the new city.
He received the name Tyra from the name of the river flowing at its foot. In total, in its history, the city had about twenty names, the penultimate of them and, probably, the most famous Akkerman.
The grandeur of this stronghold is amazing. Built at the end of the fifteenth century at the very waters of the Dniester estuary, for many centuries it served as a reliable outpost protecting from enemies. The main entrance is the Kiliya Gate. On three sides, the fortress is protected by a deep moat, which in the old days reached over 20 meters deep and 14 meters wide. A drawbridge was thrown over it.
Inside, there is just a huge space of the so-called utility yard. It is unlikely that you will find anywhere else similar in scale. Right next to the wall is an exposition of archaeological finds. And through the loophole, an old Russian cannon peeps menacingly. Steep steps lead to the very top of the wall. Their thickness and height are striking, reaching five and seven meters, respectively. And the total length is over two kilometers.
To the left of the main gate rises the Maiden's Tower. They say that the daughter of the Moldavian ruler Alexander the Good, Princess Tamara, still sleeps in it. In total there were thirty-four towers, of which twelve were combat. Some of them had their own names: the tower of Ovid, Pushkin, Temnitsa, Komendantskaya.
Not far from the main gate rises the miraculously preserved minaret of a mosque built under Sultan Bayezid II on the site of a Christian church of the 12th-17th centuries. From its top, you can clearly see the entire territory of the yard. Once upon a time there were residential buildings here, and, in case of danger, the population of the city hid here. Only a few buildings remain today. Most of the towers can be reached from the courtyard by stone steps. Despite the formidable signs warning of danger, tourists simply consider it their duty to inspect the surroundings from the height of these walls. A short walk on top gives incomparable pleasure.
The entrance to the garrison courtyard of the fortress is guarded by one of the highest towers - the “storage tower”. During excavations in its dungeons, large stocks of millet were discovered, which had lain for at least two to three hundred years. For the sake of pure interest, they decided to sow the found grain. And what a surprise it was when it sprouted. It is interesting that an underground passage begins from here, stretching to the Greek cemetery on the southern outskirts of Belgorod-Dnestrovsky.
From the corner tower, through a narrow slot of the loophole, a simply stunning view of the waters of the Dniester estuary opens. You can also see the second courtyard from here. Previously, barracks, stables and ammunition depots were located here. And finally, the citadel. A kind of fortress within a fortress. Built in the 17th century, it has reached the present day in good condition. Its mighty walls guard the corner cylindrical towers. Here, as usual, the high authorities were located.
But time is elusive. It's time to get on the road again. And at the exit from the fortress a surprise awaits. There are already two minibuses. The second, especially for a trip to that very wilderness. Which they promise to show soon. There should be a transfer and forward, in the direction of the regional center of Sarat.
And then turn onto the local road. Although this is very mild. In fact, there is a direction and what was once a road in the distant past. But, it's still flowers. Soon the minibus generally moves down to the dirt road. They say that these are the lands of the former military training ground. Then it is better not to turn off the track. You never know what can lie in the ground. They also say that the landfill is operational again. Then it remains to be hoped that the minibuses are not on the list of targets for artillerymen.
But even without this, there is enough trouble. Suddenly, in the rays of the setting sun, three harvesters appear ahead. Which are clearly going on a psychic attack. And with a chain. And there is nowhere to run. It's good that the driver manages by some unthinkable maneuver, almost to squeeze sideways along the edge of the hill between these mechanical hippos.
It seems that these steppe races will last forever. But no. Suddenly, farm buildings appear in the hollow ahead. And then, as you approach, houses begin to be visible between the trees. A couple more turns and that's it. Now you can rest and look around.
Back in 1946, in connection with the formation of a military training ground, the population of the Moldovan villages Frumushika-Nova and Roshia was resettled. Decades passed before their children and grandchildren were able to return to their native lands. And in 2006 they founded the farm Frumushika-Nova (http://frumushika. com).
Today it is a family recreation center where both adults and children, relatives and friends can relax. At the entrance stands the largest granite monument in Ukraine. The height of the monument is 16 meters 43 centimeters (17.93 meters with a pedestal), and the weight is 1080 tons. What the giant shepherd is looking for in the dusk of the setting sun is incomprehensible. Although, he certainly sees much better. Because in the beginning of the rain, you can only look out for something on the run.
Strange figures are visible between the trees. The fact is that the Bessarabian village became the last refuge for the sculptures of the Soviet era. Here, at last, peace came to them. Two legendary planes AN-2 and L-410 landed on the outskirts and froze. It was they who provided air communication in the Soviet hinterland. And the old wheeled tractor plowed these lands before the war. By the way, numerous agricultural mechanisms can be found literally at every step.
And also a real pool. Small, fifteen meters. But, it's in the steppe. In the meantime, the rain turns into a real downpour and a light gait is replaced by a hard gallop. Just enough energy reserves to dive into their houses. For the settlement, a two-story hunting house for 12 people and a huntsman's house for 4 people have been allocated. The interior is appropriate. That is, skins, heads and stuffed animals.
Twenty minutes to settle and have dinner. Those who live in a big house are lucky. Because the table is laid just on their first floor. But the neighbors have to race again in the rain. But, the goal justifies the effort. Real Moldovan treats. Mandatory sheep cheese. After all, the farm has the largest sheep-breeding complex in Europe for growing sheep of the Karakul breed. Accordingly, homemade sausage, hominy, vegetables and homemade wine. All grown and produced locally. And no chemicals.
Now you can go to the side. Because the next day is expected to rise early.
Departure at six o'clock in the morning - this is from the extreme category. But managed to deceive the evil combiners. In any case, except for quails and pheasants, no one met along the way. Or rather, on the way. It is unlikely that the steppe primer can be called a more acceptable term. And even a trip to the village with the enchanting name Veselaya Dolina on the asphalt didn't really change anything. The same holes, only now on a different background.
Berezino, Tarutino, Artsyz - one regional center is replaced by another, but the situation does not change. About a hundred kilometers in three hours. This is serious. And only the exit in Sarat to the route Odessa - Reni brings relief. Still, they do something. Construction is still ongoing. But, there is very little left.
Izmail (https://www. izmail-rada. gov. ua/) welcomes you with sunny weather and a light breeze. It is symbolic that acquaintance with the city begins with the sea station. Surprisingly, the sea is about a hundred kilometers away, and ships are calling. The embankment, put in order and improved, bears the name of the legendary head of the Soviet Danube Shipping Company, Luka Kapikrayan. At the beginning of it stands the chapel of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors. Port cranes are visible upstream and downstream. And the opposite bank is already alien, Romanian. It is four hundred meters from the strength.
The Alley of Friendship of Peoples flows into Suvorov Avenue, the central thoroughfare of the city. Which essentially represents two streets separated by a chain of parks and squares. At the very beginning, an armored boat from the times of the Great Patriotic War froze on the pedestal. He took an active part in the battles on the Danube. It was sunk, then raised, restored and put on eternal parking.
On the hill rises the castle-like hotel of Bessarabia. A block away, in the same gap, through the dense branches of trees, a military hospital is visible. Interestingly, since its inception, he has not changed his profile. Today, border guards are treated in it.
Behind the windows of the minibus, the sailor's square, the Greek square and, finally, a stop at the monument to Generalissimo Suvorov float by. The second in a series to be clarified. The first one was opened on November 6.1913 in Rymnik (Romania), in honor of the 120th anniversary of the victories of the Russian-Austrian troops over the Turks. The author of the project was the Odessa sculptor Boris Eduards. However, during the First World War, the sculpture disappeared. Most likely it was sent to be melted down.
In Izmail, perpetuating the memory of the commander was taken more seriously. Thanks to the initiative of the mayor D. F. Tulchianov, the Communal Council decided to build a monument and allocate funds in the amount of 2.000 rubles. The construction of the monument was entrusted to the artist-sculptor B. V. Edwards. The project received the support of Emperor Nicholas II himself, who donated the missing 1198 rubles from his personal funds. The solemn laying of the second monument took place on the Cathedral Square of Izmail on June 15.1914.
However, the outbreak of war prevented the implementation of plans. The finished sculpture from the author's workshop was transported to the courtyard of the Odessa Art Museum. There she stood until the end of World War II. And only in 1945, by order of the Council of People's Commissars of Ukraine, the statue was transported to Izmail and installed on the central avenue, which bears the name of the great Russian commander. Interestingly, the two cannons behind the monument are foreign. Monograms of the English monarch George III are clearly visible on their trunks. They were in service with the Turkish army. And so it happened that the monument to the winner is guarded by the cannons of the vanquished.
In 1954, in the city of Tulchin, Vinnytsia region, where in 1796-1797 the headquarters of Suvorov's army was located, another monument was erected. And, finally, the last sculpture from the series was installed on September 29.2012 in Odessa at the intersection of the Nikolaev road and Dobrovolsky Avenue in the Suvorov district.
Behind the trees you can see the Holy Intercession Cathedral. It was built on the site of an old wooden church built in Turkish times. The consecration of the cathedral took place on September 12.1831. In fact, at first it was planned to build a three-altar church. And it was even laid down on July 8.1820. But, two years later, the understanding came that the city would not pull such a colossus in terms of money. 300 thousand rubles were required. Pride was humbled and a new temple was ordered for only 80 thousand and already has a single altar.
Most historians consider Avraam Ivanovich Melnikov, professor of architecture and rector of the Moscow Academy of Arts, to be the author of the architectural project. In particular, he designed the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral in Bolgrad, the Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ in Chisinau, the ensemble of Semicircular Square in Odessa.
Some researchers give the palm to the famous Odessa architect G. I. Torricelli, who designed many houses and churches in Novorossia and the Crimea. There is also a version that the project was developed by the famous Odessa architect F. Boffo. He is the builder of the Potemkin Stairs in Odessa and the Doric column at the site of the Battle of Cahul in 1770.
Simultaneously with the construction of the cathedral, the bell tower was also erected. Wooden first. Which in 1848 was replaced by a 65-meter stone three-tiered bell tower by the Odessa city architect I. Kozlov. In the same year, at the expense of the Izmail merchant Pyotr Sorokaletov, the bell tower was connected to the cathedral by a covered gallery, and the upper church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker was built above it. And already in 1937-38, a colonnade was built and the surrounding area was equipped.
For the manufacture of church bells, Emperor Nicholas I donated 80 captured Turkish cannons weighing 2.000 pounds. Another 800 pounds was added by the mayor Tuchkov. One of the largest in Ukraine, the 11-ton main bell was cast in 1833. But with his younger brother, an incomprehensible story came out. Initially, its weight was 8 tons. Then he was transfused in Kharkov. At the same time, he lost weight up to 5.5 tons. And then it completely cracked. The inexperienced local bell ringers did not know that in winter the first blow should be very light. In addition, there are 3 more medium bells and six small bells in varying degrees of usefulness. Some need a transfusion.
The walls inside the cathedral at first shone with virgin whiteness. And only in 1912-1914 they were painted by the artist Pavel Piskarev, a student of the famous Viktor Vasnetsov. His signature in Latin letters is present on the fresco depicting St. Nicholas in the domed part of the cathedral. There is evidence that in a number of cases, sketches by Vasnetsov himself, prepared for painting the Vladimir Cathedral in Kyiv, were used.
After a quarter, there is an obligatory monument to Taras Shevchenko. For drivers, it serves as an excellent guide. It is here that those who go to Bolgrad should turn.
There is another interesting place in Izmail. As they say, the most mysterious fortress in Ukraine. Why is that? And because it is not visible today. Only the remains of earthen fortifications are visible. Initially, in the sixteenth century, it was a relatively small, mostly earthen fortification. However, by the time of the assault by Russian troops under the command of General-in-Chief A. V. Suvorov, the fortress had been largely rebuilt.
The work was carried out under the guidance of the French engineer De Lafitte-Clove and the German Richter. The citadel was located on the slope of the heights descending to the Danube. Its wide hollow is divided into two parts. The large, western one was called the old, and the eastern one was called the new fortress. The fortress walls with bastions reached seven kilometers in length. The main 9-meter shaft was surrounded by a moat, filled with water in places, up to 10 meters deep and up to 13 meters wide. There were 4 gates in the fence: on the western side - Tsargradsky and Khotinsky, on the northeast - Bendersky, on the east - Kiliya.
There were 260 guns in service, of which 85 guns and 15 mortars were on the river side. The garrison consisted of 35 thousand people under the command of an experienced commander Aydozli-Mehmet Pasha. From the Danube side, the fortress was guarded by a powerful flotilla. And besides, one should not forget that Izmail was the rear base of the Turkish army. And these are huge supplies of food, gunpowder and weapons. So Suvorov faced a very difficult task, which he brilliantly coped with.
So where did this rather large structure go? But the fact is that according to the terms of the Paris Peace Treaty of 1856, the fortress of Izmail was disarmed, and the walls were blown up. The stones were dismantled by the local population for their buildings. If you look closely at the old houses, you can find traces of the former greatness.
Today, on the territory of the fortress, a mosque of the 16th century has been preserved inside which there is a diorama “Storm of the fortress of Izmail”. An embankment was built along the Danube. And on the slopes there is an arboretum. In addition, a memorial to fallen soldiers is in the process of becoming.
However, the hot sun burns. And again, it's time to think about life-giving moisture. Thankfully it's not far to go. It is only a few kilometers to the village of Krinichnoye, standing on the shore of the largest lake in Ukraine, Yalpug.
Here, on the slopes descending to the water, the vineyards of the Plachkov family farm “Kolonist” (https ://kolonist. com. ua). It was formed relatively recently in 2005. The combination of unique natural conditions with Bulgarian winemaking traditions allows to produce a quality product.
In 2005 in “Kolonist” (https://kolonist. com. ua ) the first 2.5 hectares were planted, then 5, and today 35 hectares of vineyards are being cultivated. Compared to other well-known Ukrainian wine producers, this is not much. But, for example, in France, 63.000 winemakers have an average of 7 hectares of vineyards. At the same time, 100 thousand bottles are produced per year. In Ukraine, 17 manufacturers give out 75 million bottles to the mountain. It is clear that there is no need to talk about any kind of competition.
The Plachkovs' farm grows Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Odessa Black and Sukholimansky grape varieties. Moreover, the last two are purely national varieties. The available space is enough to produce up to 300.000 bottles a year.
But, this is outdated technology. In Ukraine, the distance between the bushes is 1.5 meters, and between the rows - 3 meters. These indicators are calculated for the existing equipment. Plachkov is acquiring new equipment and is now planting another row of vines between the existing ones. To keep up with global manufacturers. To match the vineyards and production. The equipment is the most modern known world brands. For example, new oak barrels made of hundred-year-old French oak, which are used only once for dry wines.
July 1.2015, a significant event took place. The first bottle of sparkling wine under Bisser's own patented brand was corked. That is, the Champagne region in France produces champagne. And Bisser will be produced in Bessarabia.
And Ivan Plachkov also claims: “Do you know that kind people receive more than they give? To see how many people leave me with positive emotions - isn't that wealth? Good wine is uplifting, stimulates creativity, favors love, finally. Humanity has not come up with anything wiser than bread and wine. Good Ukrainian wine is no exception, our country has enormous potential. And I will be rewarded for my efforts, I will not even know how and when, but it will definitely happen. What more could you want in life? "
It's good that after such a reception there is an opportunity to take a little nap. After all, to the final destination to go about a hundred kilometers. But now in Vylkove (https:// vylkivska-gromada. gov. ua) is much easier to get to than a few years ago. A new road has been built. And now there is an opportunity to simply admire the landscapes passing by the window of the minibus.
Vylkivska (https://vylkivska -gromada. gov. ua) is called Ukrainian Venice. So say those who have never been in this wonderful Italian town. Officially, Vilkivska (https://vylkivska-gromada. gov. ua) is a small city located in the Danube Delta on the border with Romania. In fact, a large somewhat unusual village with many canals and boats instead of cars. Almost forty kilometers of wooden masonry sidewalks, standing on piles above the eriki.
It arose in 1746 as a small village of Lipovanskoye. When the first settlers of the Old Believers came to these lands, there were continuous floodplains and swamps. To survive, everyone must literally sculpt their own happiness. The technology is quite simple - silt is taken and superimposed on an island, which cannot be counted here. The banks are reinforced with wooden piles. After some time, channels appeared from the pits where the silt was taken out, forming peculiar streets. "Central Avenue" was named Belgorod Canal.
Houses are built in the same way. Piles are driven into the ground, and then intertwined with reeds. The structure is coated with a mixture of silt and straw, rubbed with clay and sawdust and bleached. Such housing is always dry and will not crack. It is warm in winter and cool in hot weather. There are bridges from the houses to the canal.
Somewhere in a hundred years, the settlement turns into a city. Since then, little has changed. Residents live a quiet, measured life.
And their main wealth is fish. Sea and river. There are 91 species of fish in coastal waters. Fourteen of them are listed in the Red Books of Europe and Ukraine. Industrial - carp (locally Sharan), carp, pike perch, bream, sturgeon and the famous Danube herring. For fish come from all over Ukraine and abroad. Fish is the living gold of Vilkovo.
The main and, until recently, almost the only occupation of the city's residents is fishing. Crews go fishing on boats, which are made according to old technologies that are not found anywhere else.
And also gardening. Local gardens deserve a separate story. They are located on numerous Danube Islands, which can only be reached by boat. Silt serves as fertilizer and building material. It is mined from the bottom of canals and ditches. The main product is strawberries. Huge in size, but unsurpassed in taste. Harvested several times a year. And grapes. It seems that the vine was once brought from France, or from Italy. Maybe so, but now such berries can hardly be found anywhere else. They make the famous drink called "Novak". This is from the series when the head is light, but the legs do not hold.
By the way, judging by the numerous advertisements, this wine is very popular. And it is heavily advertised to vacationers. And every year there are more and more of them. Even the cool site https://www. booking. com gives Vylkove (https://vylkivska-gromada. gov. ua) about a dozen placements.
The minibus is heading to the city of pelicans. That's how it is in essence. Officially, camping "Pelican-City" (http://www. pelican-danube-tour. com. ua). Finding it isn't much of a problem. In the center, the main landmark is the Old Believer Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. And then carefully look around. At almost every turn there are signs showing how much mileage is left.
The complex is located right on the banks of the Ochakovsky arm of the Danube. It offers 6 modern cottages with 12 rooms, 3 new cottages with 6 rooms, more spacious, with improved soundproofing and with individual parking, and a two-story guest house with 6 double and 2 single rooms, a balcony overlooking the Danube and spacious lounges for relaxation.
And the next day, after a hearty and delicious breakfast, slowly go to the main event of the city - the festival "Danube guests". Representatives of many nationalities of Bessarabia gathered near the pier proudly called the seaport. Not empty-handed, but with their national cuisine. But the main event was Lipovan soup.
The main thing was not in the product itself, but the fish soup came out very good, but in its quantity. In a huge cauldron, 4 tons 56 liters were cooked. Moreover, the 6-ton tank was not completely filled.
The cauldron itself was made by the workers of the Kiliya shipbuilding and ship repair plant. And the students of the Odessa Higher Vocational School of Maritime Tourist Service prepared the fish soup.
It took 1670 kg of fish of 16 species (carp, pike perch, silver carp, catfish, bream, asp, pike, mullet, flounder, crucian carp and others), 430 kg of carrots, 400 kg of onions, 400 kg of potatoes, 120 kg tomatoes, 60 kg of bell pepper, 30 kg of salt, 2.5 tons of water. And for the local special seasoning salamur, it took about 30 kg of garlic and 15 kg of hot pepper.
At half past four in the morning, the cooks poured water into the cauldron and kindled a fire, by nine o'clock the water boiled, and the laying of food began. In general, about three stock meters of firewood were spent on cooking fish soup.
The representative of the Book of Records of Ukraine Dmitry Yaitsky issued a verdict on the establishment of the national record of Ukraine and presented Mayor Nikolay Dzyadzin with a confirming certificate. And then the music and dancing started. In particular, the National Odessa Philharmonic Orchestra presented a new European program "Hits Of The World". And the action ended with night fireworks.
And the next morning, a ship was waiting for the guests. It's really small. But also from Pelican. After all, not far from the city there is a unique reserve "Danube floodplains". It covers an area of .14, 800 hectares, of which 5.600 hectares are water areas. More than 200 species of birds living on numerous islands among dense thickets. More than 500 species of plants, many of them rare and listed in the Red Book. The water area of the reserve is a wintering place for more than 120 species of waterfowl. Thickets of trees stretch along the water in strips from 5 to 200 meters wide.
And this beauty ends with a zero kilometer. Where the Danube flows into the sea. Favorite place for tourists. Here are obligatory photos for memory and swimming in sea waters. And then already satisfied to go back. After all, trains and buses will not wait. You have to hurry up a little. But, the road is not bad and in the evening the minibus arrives at the Odessa railway station. According to the principle - where you took it there and put it back.
Despite the late evening, the Starosennaya bus station is crowded. Rather, passengers can be divided into two categories. Some arrive just before departure. Others are waiting in a small hall. There are two of them at the station. Too bad the one with the buffet is closed. But, in the immediate vicinity there are many bars and cafes. And even a 24-hour supermarket. Apart from the ubiquitous McDonald's. So it is quite problematic to die of hunger.
Finally, Autolux (https://autolux. ua). Huge and this time class comfort plus. At first glance, it differs from the VIP only in the number of seats in a row. There are four of them. Everything else is the same. And the large size of the bus has its advantages. The movement of the car is smoother. Or so it seems? In any case, the road does not cause much stress. That's just Kyiv meets with good rain. But this is already in the power of heaven.
