Impressions of Poltava region. Part 2. Potters, oaks and a little devil.
Why I started to tell about our trip to Poltava region and what impressions we got in the first 2 days of our trip, you can read here . And I will continue.
We spent the third day traveling around the area and started with Lush . The first mention of this village dates back to the XII century. , and now it is considered the capital of Ukrainian pottery with quite recognizable products of local yellowish-gray clay and cheerful paintings. It is home to the National Museum of Ukrainian Pottery , which consists of several locations. There are different variations of tickets to visit - for all museums of the complex or for individual objects, but given their cost, you can take a joint ticket, especially for us, as the first visitors, even made a discount of 20%. We started with the Center for the Promotion of Pottery,
Then we visited the museum-manor of the famous potter (sorry, I will not pick up the same melodious Russian analogue) Alexandra Selyuchenko - unfortunately, that day there was a day off, but we looked outside and had a very nice conversation with a local potter who once worked with Alexandra.
Next on the road we had the estate of the Krychevsky family, a well-known representative of which is Vasyl Krychevsky - the creator of the Small State Emblem of Ukraine "Trident" and the first Ukrainian banknotes.
He collected and studied folk costumes, household items, products and even songs
And do you remember the beautiful building of the Poltava Museum of Local Lore in the style of Ukrainian Art Nouveau? His authorship also belongs to V. Krychevsky.
And, as can be seen from the exhibition, many members of this family were talented and artistically gifted.
Here are such interesting paintings by his granddaughter, who, as I understand it, lives in Venezuela. You can't see it in the photo, but the name is something like this: "If you have been offended, the weapon is not the way out, the way out is poison! »: )))
The Wall of Glory of Ukrainian pottery is also installed in the estate.
Two other museums-estates are located a little further from the center, but I would recommend to visit them - the museum of the famous in Opishna and not only the family of potters Poshivailo
as well as the philosopher and collector of Opishnian ceramics Mykola Smorzh, who himself in his spare time was fond of amateur modeling.
Finally, the central location is the National Museum of Monumental and Landscape Clay Sculptures,
The exposition of which is spread on the picturesque slopes around the museum building.
And since this is the highest point of Poltava region (at least, so they say), the views that open will not leave you indifferent.
Inside the museum, there is also something nice to see, as one of my favorite authors on TP likes to express himself.
Here you can not only admire the variety of forms, styles and fantasies of the authors of clay sculpture, but also join this art form.
Of course, not without the help of a real master. ; ))
And the vast majority of visitors sculpted from clay so-called coins - small plates, which were once used for various purposes.
Well, I would not be a Taurus, if I did not remember that there are few candlesticks in the house and, for example, for Christmas and a candle, there is nothing to really install. So she offered a local craftsman to help me make a candlestick.
And I'll tell you more - for only 10 UAH. you will be able to take the masterpiece you have created with you and then paint it on long winter evenings. We painted our candlesticks, taking into account the period of the trip, in the hot summer season, so please do not judge the result harshly! ; )))
Overall from Last
I pulled us out voluntarily because Dykanka was still in the pipeline.
Otherwise, I would have found something to do there by the evening, so I recommend allocating more time to visit her.
Well, we take the "path on the pillar road to Dykanka" (c), the former estate of the general secretary Vasyl Kochubey and the "fatherland" of Gogol's heroes. And it can be recognized by the Arc de Triomphe, built by Kochubey in 1820 in honor of the arrival of Alexander I.
According to experts, there is nothing to do in Dykanka in winter. But I think it is absolutely wrong to be in Poltava region and not see with your own eyes the Baroque Trinity Church, on the wall of which "...Vakula painted the devil in hell, so ugly that everyone spat when passing by, and women, as soon as the child cried in their arms, they raised him to the picture and said: "He sees what a picture! "(WITH).
Or the Church of St. Nicholas, in the basement of which is the family tomb of the Kochubeys, whose luxury is not inferior to the royal burial, which, according to guides, caused a negative reaction of the most famous people: " ..."
As well as the famous Kochubeyev oaks - silent witnesses of the forbidden, but such sweet meetings of the Hetman of Ukraine Ivan Mazepa and the young Motra Kochubeyevna, which later had very sad consequences (I apologize for the quality of the photo - it was raining).
Keep in mind that there are almost no signs in Dykanka, and it is better to find out the location of objects of interest to you in advance. Because, for example, not far from the Church of St. Nicholas grow only three oaks and a pointer to them is far in the woods, but not from the church.
And the fourth oak tree grows near another attraction of Dykanka - Lilac Pit, laid by Kochubey for his tuberculosis-stricken daughter Anna. Now, frankly, the grove does not make the right impression - lilac grows here very chaotically and there is no variety of varieties that are mentioned in the legends.
And, I'll tell you, the same legends don't lie at all when they attribute some devil to Dykanka - they've seen for themselves! And just when they were trying to find the fourth oak, someone probably didn't want us to see it. Twice we returned to the seemingly very safe trails that took us into the evening forest anywhere,
but not to the oak, and when we almost went to the wanted, there was such a downpour, which I have not seen for 10 years.
And all we had left was to try to save at least the camera from the avalanche of water and rush to the car, after which the rest of the things had to be unscrewed and hung out to dry. : ))
But the oak was worth it. Perhaps this is what Gogol said about him through the mouth of his hero: the night before the bright holiday "(c)?
And when such adventures happened to us, I remembered another local legend about the same icon of Nicholas the Wonderworker from the Church of St. Nicholas, which was repeatedly visited by Maria Gogol-Yanovska with prayers to send her a child - found her in the woods (the church was later built on the site) after heavy rain and thunderstorms.
So I also decided after our terrible downpour to go to the forest - to look for something, but found there only… souvenir shovel.
To which my husband philosophically remarked: "To each according to his faith…"! ; )))
This is how our third day in Poltava region ended, and back tomorrow.
Finally, we explore the Round Square - the historic center and symbol of Poltava, through which the city was sometimes called "St. Petersburg in miniature. " The monument of Glory in its center, dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Poltava, symbolizes the place where Peter I met with the defenders of the city.
Along the outer circle of the square are historic buildings - previously it was present, the noble assembly, the governor-general's house, Peter's Cadet Corps and others. Currently, some of the buildings are used for urban needs (City Council, Central Post Office, Trade Union Council),
and part is under restoration.
Well, this is the end of our acquaintance with Poltava region and we are going back. Along the way, we have another object planned - Mgarsky Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery , leading its history from 1619. At that time the population of the monastery consisted mainly of Zaporozhian Cossacks who accepted monasticism, and in 1663 under the monastic name Gideon was the son of Bohdan Khmelnytsky Yuri.
Various events took place in the life of the monastery, until after the revolution the last 17 monks with the abbot were shot here, and the monastery itself fell into disrepair. Its revival began in 1993 and significant progress has been made. For example, the unique wooden iconostasis (pictured here ) has been almost completely restored in photos,
revived economy - apiary, garden, pastures, etc.
Within 10 minutes walk from the monastery is a hermitage for elderly monks. The place there is really quiet and secluded, and the Church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin looks joyful and life-affirming.
Another place near the monastery is the first monument to the victims of the Holodomor in Ukraine Mound of Sorrow , opened in 1993 one person - with her the world dies. When millions go to the abyss - then the whole galaxy dies "- it is written on it.
Well, on the way to Kyiv we have another attraction - the water tower in Pyriatyn, near which the well-known Soviet film "Queen of the Gas Station" was shot.
And if you do not pay attention to the nearby overpass, brands of cars flying on it, and similar things, it creates the full feeling that you are there, in the movie and now through the tower jpg " rel="nofollow"> will be released on videos Lyudmila Good evening
As I said, several places remained uncovered - and if Velyki Sorochyntsi is the most attractive to visit during the famous Sorochyn Fair, then here is the Estate-Museum N V. Gogol in the village Gogolevo would be informative and interesting to visit at any time of the year, because there are costume tours, theatrical performances with the participation of Gogol's heroes and others.
In the end I will say that the choice in favor of this tourist destination is yours, but if we remember again Nikolai Vasilyevich with his maxim that "In the old days they loved to eat well, even better loved to drink, and even better loved to have fun" (c), in Poltava region, especially in Poltava region on New Year's and Christmas, you will succeed completely! : )
