Az, BUKI, Vedas
Az, BUKI, Vedas
***Instead of an epigraph. I do not argue - the world is vast and diverse, and there are so many interesting things out there, somewhere far away. Reading the stories of other authors, sometimes I even howl with quiet envy. But for now I'm traveling around Ukraine. I don’t want to be pompous, but she is OURS (not in the sense of party affiliation, but simply her own, dear), and we don’t know her at all.
It turns out that in order to get back to Ukraine-incognitu, you need quite a bit: just walk down the street and see a tent that sells excursions. Read the mysterious word "BUKI" in the name of one of the proposed routes. Then get on the Internet and find out that "Bukov" or "Bukov" in Ukraine 2: only Buki - in the Cherkasy region, and there are the most beautiful judges on the reviews of a granite quarry, a waterfall. rural hydroelectric power station. Other Buki are very close, in the Skvirsky district of the Kyiv region.
Since everyone who visited the canyon advises to see it in autumn, it was decided to move on the next day off to Buki pod Skvira.
We drove by car along the route Ruzhin-Skvira-turn to Popelnya-Buki. Back - Buki-direction to Popelnya-Andrushovka. The condition of the roads in the first direction, which in the second direction suggests buying a dictionary of Russian obscenities, because
From Kyiv (about 130 km), as I understand it, you need to go to Bel. Church. -Skvir, but also not the fact that you can get there without a dictionary (see above))).
This small village, probably, would have remained just a dot on the map if it were not for the native of local places.
In principle, the man did everything right: he didn’t just give birth to a son - he has two of his own and 21 adopted children, he not only built a house and raised a tree - he set up a landscape park, in my opinion, not inferior in beauty to Uman Sophieveka.
And given the depressing state of the Bila Tserkva Alexandria, it is, all the more, not a competitor to Bukama.
Buki Landscape Park is located on the territory of a former paper mill, on the banks of the Rostavitsia River, at the site of a rural dump, from which several hundred KAMAZ trucks of garbage were removed. In the park, in addition to the complex of buildings intended for the residence of the Suslov family, there is also a temple complex, an orphanage, sculptures, a fountain that once stood on Independence Square, a mini-zoo, and a meadow of fairy tales. Entrance to the park is free. But if earlier it was possible to wander and stare even on the “family” territory, now there is no access there.
This is due to several unpleasant incidents: people who wandered uncontrollably everywhere, broke sculptures, poisoned animals in the menagerie. Once, tourists taking pictures against his background did not let Suslov's wife into their own house, they say, wait your turn, then you will pass.
After that, some parts of the park can only be accessed accompanied by guides or guards.
The history of the creation of the park is unusual. It all started with the construction of a mini-hydroelectric power station. I. Suslov came up with the idea of "his own" power plant several years ago. With "rolling" power outages, for some reason, most often the farm was turned off during milking. The cows' milk began to disappear, milk yields dropped sharply, the herd would just about go under the knife. And since at that time Suslov already owned a local cheese and dairy plant, he did not wait for his ruin and set about building his own power plant.
Now it supplies electricity to the park, Suslov's house itself and other buildings located on the territory.
I will not say that the glory of the local patrons of the past Branitsky, N. A. Tereshchenko and V. F. Golubev.
But the fact that a person built himself during his lifetime, and a forever monument, at all times, and the Roshen fountain in Vinnitsa is a fact. I don't know if I. Suslov is a member of the Verkhovna Rada. But if so, then he, like Poroshenko, is credited. And if the remaining 448 people's deputies, at least in micro-shares, created something similar in 448 Ukrainian cities or villages - you see, it would not be so shameful for the president, who reads Anna AkhmEtova with rapture.
From the parking lot, we immediately got to the observation deck in front of the five-bath church of St. Eugene. Named after the eldest son of I. Suslov. Evgeniy Suslov is the youngest mayor in Europe, "merit" in Skvyra.
Entrance to the temple is free. The inside is very beautiful, and although it feels like a remake, the interior is still impressive. Everyone who comes can put a candle for health or peace for free, the candles lie freely on two large boxes-chests near the entrance inside the temple.
On the boxes there is a click for donations, but if there are none, no one will judge you, take a candle and go to the icon. They say that, unlike most Orthodox churches in Ukraine, there is no fixed fee for church ceremonies of weddings, baptisms, and funerals. How much you can donate is how much you pay.
Near the Church of St. Eugene - the chapel of St. Nicholas and St. Alexander, named after the youngest son of I. Suslov.
The bell tower of St. Daniel completes the temple complex. A touching story is connected with it, I don’t know how reliable it is. The son of I. Suslov, Eugene, fell ill with cancer.
Rare medicines that are not available in Ukraine were needed. Suslov Sr. , by hook or by crook, trying to find a cure to save his son, got right up to the president. Of course, I did not get an appointment with him, but the then President of Ukraine Leonid Kuchma was informed about the problem.
And the next day the medicine was delivered by plane. In gratitude, the bell tower was built and, according to Christian tradition, named after Leonid Kuchma's father Daniil Prokofievich Kuchma.
A commemorative plaque tells visitors whose name it bears. They say that although Suslov himself is a BYuT member, after the “orange” revolution he was strongly recommended to remove this sign. But he refused. Which also characterizes him very positively).
The bell tower is decorated with sculptures of Prince Vladimir, Princess Olga and others. And at the top - four angels look in different directions of the world.
We descend from the temple complex to the lower terrace.
Here on the left is a monument to all those who died in all wars and to the liquidators of the Chernobyl nuclear power plant. On the right is the Roulette fountain, which stood on Maidan Nezalezhnosti before reconstruction. For ten years he was gathering dust in some warehouse, until Suslov moved him to Buki.
The fountain was repaired, several new petals were cast, pumping equipment and granite were replaced.
Then we ask the guard how to get to the park. And we go there.
The entrance to it (as well as the power plant, and many other structures in the park) is decorated with peaked roofs covered with red tiles.
To go to the Suslov estate, you need to cross the dam along special wooden paths "hanging" on the water. Water flows through the dam all the time - especially to clean the wheels of arriving cars and the feet of incoming tourists. To the right of the dam, the water turns into a small waterfall.
All these buildings, sculptures, bridges, gazebos, lanterns are so skillfully inscribed in the surrounding landscape that one simply marvels at the artistic flair and taste of the people who created the park.
Guides strongly recommend visiting 4 iconic places in the park.
The first one is the "Stone of Galilee" donated to the owners by the Jewish community. There are only a few such cameos in the world. According to legend, in the Israeli town of Canne of Galilee, at the place where the stone was taken, Jesus blessed the newlyweds and turned ordinary water into wine (so far, alas, such miracles have not been repeated).
The central part of the park - just Venice in miniature - practically stands on the water. Above the streams of water - a variety of bridges and footbridges. . The passage to private buildings is guarded by bronze winged lions - griffins. Anyone who stands in the middle of the bridge with griffins and makes a secret wish can be 100% sure that it will come true.
Yes, at least the tour guide assured us. We, of course, also thought of ourselves as everything and more. while we wait).
From the sandy hill "admire" the surrounding landscape 3 huge frogs - such themselves, I would say, a monument to the Ukrainian national mentality.
On the one hand, according to all sorts of feng shui, a frog with money by the pasta is a sign of well-being. On the other hand, maybe this is a hint that she begins to choke everyone who comes to the estate (after all, I repeat, this is really a real estate with a manor house and a park around it)? ! I don’t know, but there are a lot of people near this witty monument: they want to put money in their mouths, and saddle it, and rub it for good luck, etc. , etc.
Near the chapel of St. Alexander is the fourth important object - the so-called "God's Eye" - a naturally occurring brown stone with an almost regular shape of a triangular black formation inside.
The locals tell with reverence that monks came to them almost from Mount Athos to study the curiosity. It is believed that if you touch the black triangle with your palms and ask for health for yourself and your loved ones, everything will be fine.
Behind the bridge with griffins is the "paid" part of the park - the entrance to the mini-zoo and the meadow of fairy tales. Price - 10 hryvnia. In the menagerie they saw brown bears, spotted deer, sheep (maybe they were some kind of noble animals, I don’t know, they were sheep). Everyone but me saw the lioness. I missed. I know that before there was still an ostrich - now there is not, in any case, they did not show us.
Glade of fairy tales is a place at the exit to the sandy beach, decorated with sculptures of various fairy tale characters. Visually - carved from wood. Upon closer inspection and the guide's comments, it turned out that all these beauties were made of concrete.
Well, as I said above, the owner of all this magnificence also takes care of the orphanage, which is not located on the very territory of the park, but in close proximity to it. And in this regard: by the end of our stay there, a somewhat pastoral picture was broken by such a meeting.
When, driven by natural need (excuse me, please, for the piquant detail), I rushed to the “toilet (like a toilet) codenamed Me and Jo”, it turned out that the money for visiting the water closet (I must say, very comfortable, even with a bidet! ) instead of the usual grandmother, a boy of a completely orphanage appearance collects at the entrance: grimy, scratched, some kind of restless. And I also remembered a girl in the temple - as she was on duty there, she looked after the tourists. And also the words of the guard, that orphans help a lot to maintain the territory in such order and take care of the plants.
I believe that since the park is open to the public from Friday to Sunday, they probably work there on the rest of the week. And guilty of something - and on the weekend.
For some reason, a picture immediately formed in my head: in the morning on the line they give a list of who goes where to work, and those who didn’t get the turn to go to corvee, sigh with relief. Probably, this is not a reason to doubt the virtues of the owner and his sincere desire to help orphans, and there is nothing wrong with children getting used to work, but somehow it would be more honest to hire people from the village and pay them a salary. And m. b. I'm wrong, and these children are also paid to work in the park? I don’t know, but somehow this episode touched me, I don’t know why.
By the way, for some reason, people were very indignant at the need to pay a symbolic 2 UAH. for a toilet, while everything else in the park is completely free.
As for me, everything is fair: the owners do not take money for beauty. And for the fact that in a cultural place you yourself understand culturally that they take it, and in my opinion, this is right, someone should maintain cleanliness, so why should he, for thanks, wash and clean?
In general, there were few people in the park. It seems to me that this place is simply little known: having accidentally talked with other visitors, they heard that, while living in Bila Tserkva, they had recently learned about Buki. And although, according to rumors, newlyweds are very fond of taking pictures in the park, despite Sunday, we did not see a single couple
PS: In my opinion, this is a great route for a weekend trip. It is very beautiful, at some point I thought that next time we would come just for a walk and enjoy the beauty, without cameras. From household things - there is not enough place where
could have a bite to eat.
At the entrance to the park there is a stall with kvass beer, ice cream, chips, but it's true, the worm will die. The plans of the owners, as we understand, include the opening of a catering point. But for now it's better to have a couple of sandwiches with you).
And further. We walked around the park back and forth.
