Spring Istanbul
Spring Istanbul
It was a long spring, with no trips until May itself. After the endless Vietnam, it seemed like an eternity had passed before the next trip. I remember, upon arrival from Asia, a taxi driver in Kyiv, seeing two small backpacks, asked where the luggage was, seeing that we were obviously not dressed for the weather in the middle of winter. To the answer that these backpacks are our luggage, he smiled. And then he asked near the house, so where is your luggage, the driver did not believe that for three weeks you can fly somewhere with two incompletely loaded backpacks. The long-awaited May holidays have come and a series of trips and travels has begun. On some holidays we were in Starkon, on others a tour of the Carpathians, on the third and Istanbul fell out.
We have an Istanbul trip in every season and, accordingly, Turkey is our most visited country, we have already been to this cool country six times, but have never been to an all-inclusive resort. The previous two times in Istanbul ran into not the best weather. The choice of these dates took place under close study of weather archives for the last 5 years. Thus, we calculated that May 13-16 would be the most successful option and did not lose. In Boryspil, I checked how the online ticket system works, at all points the data was checked directly from the tablet. It was especially fun to pass passports and a tablet to the window at border control for verification. And at one of the intermediate controls, a girl took two passports from our hands, and both turned out to be mine. In general, we took out the brains of the Boryspil staff to the fullest. For several hours of flight we managed to fly around the storm. It was the first time in our history that we saw a blinking thundercloud from the porthole. Upon arrival in Istanbul, my new passport received its first stamp. It was in the evening and the first thing upon arrival we went to taste one of the best cuisines in the world. Previously, when there were more people and fewer terrorist attacks, cafes around midnight worked with might and main, but now they began to close much earlier. In general, in connection with the terrorist attacks, many were wary of my idea with Istanbul. But in fact, during our stay, only one Molotov cocktail flew past me and in the middle of the night there was an explosion on the other side of the city, and we heard the shot only once, besides, it could have been just a firecracker. But this time we were lucky with the weather.
After dinner in a cafe, we went by GPS to our hotel. The hotel was really cool. True, the guy at the reception could not find our reservation, and when I got the booking, it turned out that this was not our hotel, but one of the attractions marked on our map. Our hotel was in a completely different place. We got to our hotel, while we were checking in, we watched the guys take pictures against the backdrop of a mirror.
To our left is a door!
We were entered into the room, with some noise from the hood outside the window, at the first request we were moved for free, to a room that was ten percent more expensive than ours. While we were re-registered at the reception, another girl approached the mirror, the mirror moved to the side, she went behind him and the mirror fell back into place. Seeing our surprise, the manager told us “It’s just a magic, by the way, your new room located behind this mirror too”. So we lived in a real looking glass. I felt like Harry Potter at Hogwarts every time I went to my room. The night was very hot and the breakfast was very rich. In the history of non-resort hotel travel, breakfast at the Harmony Hotel was one of the best.
On the road!
Early in the morning we set off on our two-day journey. During the first day, it was necessary to walk everything that had been seen over the previous three years. The previous three times were in winter, and summer Istanbul appeared before us in a completely new look. Flower beds in places where we didn’t even imagine them, and a park with large thick bald trees turned into a green park with ordinary trees.
Green parrots still soared from tree to tree, and the panoramic view of the Bosphorus prepared a surprise, the water was a completely different color than we saw.
It changed from dark to azure, resembling the sea of the Maldives in color. After drinking fresh juice and eating delicious ice cream, we went on foot to watch Dolmabahce.
Dolmabahce
We walked from the old town to the business part across the bridge, from which fishermen traditionally fished. Dolmabahce was a newer residence for the Sultans (instead of Topkapı ), and later for President Atatü rk. Each time arriving in Istanbul, either by time or by money, they did not get inside. This time they forked out 30 lira ($10) and still went inside. The visit, however, almost fell through due to some kind of reconstruction inside, but it turned out to be only in an insignificant part.
It was not allowed to take pictures inside, so there are no photos of this modest charm of the bourgeoisie. But it was really impressive and cool. I liked that the visit included a tour. Of course, the sultans lived luxuriously, but without Wi-Fi and computers I can’t imagine what I could do in these apartments. On the territory itself there was green grass with fountains and running animals, pheasants, peacocks, ducks and, of course, cats.
The cat was basking in the sun, but then the hens came and drove the cat out of its old place. Some kind of idyll reigned on the territory of the residence. We even lay on the grass for about 15 minutes, resting after the completed hiking route.
Asia
Then we followed to the port of Kabatash to go to the Asian part. But I didn’t remember which port we needed, but Dasha figured out to find last year’s photos on the tablet and show them in the ticket office. The man could not understand from the pictures where it was, but as he approached, he began to look at the inscriptions on the shops, determining that this was the Uskyudar district, since the name of the district appeared in the name of one of the shops. It was also a blessing that our boat was leaving in a minute. In Uskudar we went to the market where they sell fresh lira ($0.33). We got drunk on orange fresh juices, went to the store where Dasha buys pajama pants every year, and returned again for fresh juices.
We had lunch and again returned for fresh juices. Dasha savored each glass in a more extended way, and I, like at a bar, drank, put down a glass, they poured me the next one. So we drank 13 glasses of fresh juices. Lunch was delicious as always.
It was my favorite Iskander kebab. Even the waiter taught me how to pronounce the name of this unreal dish correctly. After the market, we went to the embankment to lie down with the locals on the grass.
After so many fresh juices, it was hard to move a lot. Rested in the shade from the hot summer sun. The weather had nothing to do with May, it was real summer in Istanbul. From the clearing we went up to the mountainous area, from where marvelous panoramas opened from the park area.
Everything was relaxed and good. The sun was gradually moving towards sunset, and over the Bosphorus the air began to receive particles of gold.
Road to Ortokoy area
The pier, from which we wanted to sail to the Ortokoy area, turned out to be inactive. And then we realized that we would have to cross the Bosphorus Bridge. This is actually a very, very difficult undertaking. The Turks, whom we began to ask how to enter the bridge, strongly said that we needed to return to the port of Uskudar. But the driver of one of the buses, when I pointed to the bridge, nodded his head, at first we stood in a traffic jam for about 30 minutes, and then the driver simply passed the bridge and drove on, to my question he said in Turkish that he did not know English at all. Nod your head in the affirmative if you don't understand what I'm talking about. I wonder how he interpreted our first dialogue, he must have thought that I asked him “What a beautiful bridge! ” and pointed to the bridge, and he nodded his head in response to me. Or, probably, it was like this: “I asked if you were passing by that bridge, but in such a way that it was completely impossible to get on it? ” And he nodded his head in response. Although the Turks denied the fact that the bridge can be crossed by bus, we have already done this once and we remember for sure that the bus goes there. As a result, after long discussions with one of the comrades, we found out that the bus does not go there, but the metro bus goes there, it is the same as the bus, only it is unrealistically expensive. Having crossed the bridge, we stopped at the wrong place. Where we got off was a big road junction. Every Turk was sure that our bus was coming from a nearby subway exit. When we got to the last exit, they told us that we had to take another metrobus, where we originally got off, but no one knew which buses to take. And if he knew, then there was no such bus at the exit where we were sent. As a result, by some miracle, we left and got to the Besiktash pier, which was halfway to our goal. Why are we so eager to go to that area? There are beautiful yellow lighting, lanterns and evening parties. It's very cozy and beautiful there. Where we got off, the road was well known, since we had already walked along it more than once. It seemed that another forty minutes on foot and we got there. What could be easier if you don't have to overcome traffic interchanges. People went to the meeting, covering their noses with napkins, caps and other improvised means. This was very disturbing. But then I began to notice that this was not the first time I was walking along the road trying to get something out of my eyes. In the light of passing headlights, we noticed a large amount of fine fluff in the air, which seems to be flying from local trees. For 40 minutes of the road, the nose no longer breathed, and the hands were already tired of cleaning their eyes all the time. This road was tough, and when we did get there, the lights were turned off in the area. And all the romance of bygone years dispelled. The fiasco was something else. Although the people were crowded, but in the dark it is somehow not as cool as with yellow lighting. But they ate a very tasty dish in a local cafe in the area. Exhausted by many hours of getting there, we boarded a bus and, with a transfer to a tram, reached our native Sultanahmet. We slept soundly at night, but it was very hot.
Princes' Islands
In the morning we went for a walk along the promenade. Many Turks sunbathed on boulders, and some even swam. From time to time cats warmed themselves on the stones. It was a bit difficult to walk along the embankment against the sun. But along the city's old wall. On this day we went to the Princes' Islands. We already visited the largest one a year ago, this time we took the second largest.
View from the island
The island was as always gorgeous, even more like it than last year. Walking around the island, you seem to find yourself in another new country, with views that are not inherent in Istanbul. First of all, as we sailed to the island, we immediately supported the concept of a gastronomic tour, although the restaurant did not have a card terminal, he happily deducted money from the card with the terminal of a nearby store. Eat, continue on the road. There were many cats. I would generally rename these islands to the Kotikovs.
We walked around the island for about four hours. There is nothing special to say about a relaxing walk with beautiful panoramas and cat therapy, the only thing was a lot of fun when two cyclists stood and talked to each other. At one point, a cyclist on level ground with a bicycle fell headlong off a cliff. Everyone laughed, including the cyclist.
Singing rooftops
At 17:15 we sailed back to Istanbul, because we had to catch the Singing Roofs. It's good that we had a dot on the tablet. The place is called Valide Han. We walked along some deserted streets, and reached a large wooden gate with a small door. We need grandfather Mehdi. Outside the door we heard young voices, which means that in this deserted place there are people. Looks like they came to the right place. Just then the door opened, and an elderly man let out satisfied tourists. We entered. When asked the price, grandfather named a secret fee. We paid, and he waved his hand where we should go. It was the hardest quest in a very strange place. These were some old abandoned rooms and dark corridors. Some of the doors had padlocks. We specifically fornicated for about 20 minutes in an attempt to find a way out to the roof. As a result, the first thing we found was the toilet. There was even a live man. Of course, you need to have nerves of steel in this place.
On the way to the rooftops
At one point, we were lucky to find that loophole and the whole old city below us. In otguglennoe time began to sing mosques from different parts of the city. Romance and beauty reigned on these roofs. Some loving couple sat far away without moving for so long that we worried about their condition. While admiring the views, a shot rang out somewhere in the streets. After singing, the grandfather of the housekeeper went up to the roof. And we began to get ready, at the grandfather's campaign, the working day was over. While walking back, grandfather Mehdi went into one of the doors and closed. At the bottom, of course, there was a lock and it was impossible to open it without grandfather. There was a number on the lock where to call. Over time, the guys who wanted to go out also pulled up. One of them dialed a number and the keyman came down to us. It was just that grandfather was waiting for a group to form, just like a minibus does not leave until a crowd has gathered. Leaving the complex, we found ourselves on deserted streets along closed outlets. We got out for a long time, ran into teenagers who were trying to invent the Molotov Cocktail. And one of them, either as a joke, or seriously burning, flew in my direction, but flew past. I had to quicken my pace. When we got to the crowded center it became easier. On the one hand, it’s dumb when there is a crowd of people so that no one rushes in it, on the other hand, it’s also unsafe on deserted streets. According to the gastronomic plan, we also had to try their national Taysti Kebab in a pot. This dish is expensive, so I had to go around a number of restaurants to determine where it is the cheapest. When we decided and sat down, they slipped us a menu with completely different prices, and also a pipe, which is 10% not included in the price. When the manager saw us getting up from the table. He convinced us that for us there would be VIP prices exactly as he showed us, they immediately brought us another menu and without any taxes. For the first time, by the way, such a variant of a scam was seen.
Our dinner is getting ready
Cooking kebab in a pot looked spectacular and clearly added charm to our dinner, for the recommendation of this kebab, special thanks to xeops, who praised him very much in his story. After the meal, we should have gone to the evening embankment, but we were covered with such a hard downpour that it didn’t seem enough. Immediately, all sellers traditionally retrained as sellers of transparent umbrellas. That year we wanted to bring one, but we forgot it at the airport. This time they did bring an umbrella, leaving two pairs of headphones and a bunch of keys in the hotel. Istanbul clearly did not want to let us go. The night was traditionally hot, and even the explosion on the nearby coast of the city woke me up. The hotel packed our breakfast for us in the form of two giant sandwiches, as if in halves of a loaf, and even printed air tickets for us. How UIA upgraded the class of our tickets from economy to business for our beloved travelers. It was unexpected, pleasant and joyful. We learned about this before boarding the plane. They took tickets from us for verification and instead gave them prepared ones from the business class with our names. I don’t know how we deserved such an arrangement, but they clearly made the right choice. In general, I would like to say about the UIA business class that it falls short in terms of service to the economy class of Turkish Airlines or Emirates. But still it was a joy to have beautifully served tea and a free magazine.
This trip to Istanbul was one of the best and definitely the sunniest. We recommend Istanbul as always.
Trip information
Date of travel: 05/13/2016 - 05/16/2016
Trip type: Weekend
Duration: 2 full days
Visa: Not required
Flight tickets: UIA
Hotel: Harmony Hotel
Excursions: All by yourself
Trip difficulty: 4/10 (below average)