On your own from Sousse to El Jem
Genre - adventure.
It was in 2013. A review of the hotel is already on our page, and in this story I would like to tell you about how we independently went from Sousse to El Jem.
Tunisia attracted us with its mystery. We heard something about him, read about some interesting things. They knew for sure that it was in Tunisia that the ruins of ancient Carthage were located. But, having bought a tour, we decided to take a closer look at what else is so interesting in Tunisia that should be included in the “mandatory” sightseeing program. And then we came across someone's review of the Tunisian Colosseum. People went there on their own and, judging from their story, it was not at all difficult. Everything seemed very simple and clear.
And we got excited about this idea. After browsing the Internet and reading what other travelers write, we decided to go on our own to the city of El Jem (especially since it is a nearby city to Sousse). El Jem has the best preserved Roman Colosseum. We have already seen the Colosseum in Rome, and for comparison, I would like to look at this one. Moreover, recently the premiere of the film "Gladiator", which was filmed there, took place. We are “experienced” travelers, at that time we already visited three countries! What to us! We'll get there. No sooner said than done.
The trip plan was printed out at home. Everything seems to be clear. We live in the city of Sousse, more precisely, in the suburbs. It's good that our hotel is located in the suburbs, but it complicates the journey because you first need to get to Sousse by minibus or bus, and from there by train to El Jem.
The first stage of the journey was a success. We got to the city, began to look for the railway station. It seems to be somewhere near the map, but it is not visible. We decided to ask the locals. And this is where our "adventures" begin. We were absolutely not prepared for the fact that the locals, including the youth of the student type, do not speak English. And they don't even understand what we're asking them about. And I must say that in city buses all the controllers-cashiers speak English, and this relaxed us. The husband knew the only phrase in French: “Excuse me, where is the station? ” we said it, and they nevertheless understood us and showed us the direction of the station. And here is the second problem: the train schedule is only in French and Arabic. But, having said “El Jem and back” at the box office, we still managed to buy round trip tickets. A filthy electric train stands on a shabby platform (it reminds me of something so dear). We ask: “El Jem? » Everyone nods in approval. We sit down. The controllers in the trains speak English, thank God, then we'll get there. Looking at our tickets, the controller told us in English "next stop". So the next stop is ours. So that's great! It was written on the Internet that it was about forty minutes to go. We got over an hour, but we sat. The car was half empty, although not very comfortable, but it is better to sit badly than to stand well. At the entrance to El Jem, you can’t make a mistake where to get off - the Colosseum is the largest building in this town, it can be seen directly from the train window.
Mark Antony Gordian Colosseum
And besides him, there is nothing else to see there.
View of El Jem city from the Colosseum
Electric trains run once an hour. Great, go very close, you can return in 5-10 minutes. We have an hour and a half before departure. Joy overwhelms: “We are such good fellows! We got ourselves! »
A ticket to the Colosseum is inexpensive, but you have to pay extra for taking photos and videos. True, as we were later explained, the money for photographing at historical sites without fail goes to their restoration and maintenance in an appropriate condition. So it’s not a pity for such good goals, quite the contrary. We buy and go. And here we are struck by something that we could not even dream of, even in our wildest fantasies, we are the only visitors!
Coliseum galleries in El Jem
The huge building is completely at our disposal!
Columns of the Colosseum in El Jem
Unlike Rome, where there are crowds of tourists, and the underground floor is generally closed to the public, here you can walk everywhere. Words can't describe how amazing it is! It becomes clear that an hour and a half may not be enough for a detailed inspection, but you want to look into every corner. When else will you see this?
The cellars of the Colosseum in El Jem
The Colosseum, or the amphitheater of Mark Antony Gordian in El Jem is the second largest after the Roman one. He is also almost 2 thousand years old. It is interesting to walk through the galleries, sit on the spectator benches and imagine yourself as ancient spectators. It was in this place that we got such an opportunity - to feel what it is like. High steps, shady galleries and excellent views of the arena from everywhere. Also great acoustics.
Colosseum Arena in El Jem
In the cellars of the amphitheater, in addition to animals, the first Christians were also kept, who were killed for the amusement of the public. People suffered for their faith. And, although we are realists by nature, but one interesting detail made us reconsider our beliefs. Not only in our photos, but also in those we saw on the Internet, from complete strangers: when photographing the cellars of the amphitheater, plasmoids (blurred whitish spots) are visible. Ufologists claim that these are the souls of Christian martyrs. Maybe. We don't know much! Maybe there is a parallel world nearby.
Plasmoids in the chambers of Christian martyrs
About 2 hours later, our loneliness was brightened up by a group of Chinese. Yes, and we have already worked up, seen enough and photographed.
Roman architecture of the Colosseum
Shady circular galleries of the Colosseum
It's already afternoon, we should start on the way back.
Nothing foreshadowed trouble... Arriving at the station, they asked the employee on the platform when the train was going to Sousse. He said in 20 minutes. On the scoreboard, as you understand, the inscriptions are only in French and Arabic (it is not possible to make out anything). Well, we are not polyglots. There were a lot of people, it was Saturday. All with some kind of klumaks. The electric train came, it had to be stormed, as in the old days, when all the inhabitants of “my vast Motherland” on Saturdays massively went to the suburbs of all large and not very cities to give their dachas. They just got in. Full wagon of some soldiers. They took all the empty seats. Apparently, it is not customary for them to yield to women. The central aisles are very narrow and packed to capacity with people, and at regular intervals they also carry a bulky wheelbarrow with some kind of pies and drinks. And at this moment, even jump on the ceiling. There is nowhere to go. An elderly Tunisian woman who sat on narrow seats smiled at me. I smiled back at her, and she began to hide me from the passage so that I would not be crushed. Still, the world is not without good people!
Although Tunisia positions itself as a secular country, it is still more of a Muslim country. Being mentally prepared for this, we dressed properly: jeans, shirts with closed sleeves, and I also had a bandanna on my head. One could feel the mute approval of the citizens. Maybe that's why they took pity on me.
We drive, we drive, we pass some stops that were not on the way to El Jem. But in time we understand that it seems to be not ours yet. Although slowly we start to get nervous and ask “Suss? ". The people show that they don't. And then another stop, the car is half empty, and by the time we should have arrived. And we remember that when we went there, we sat down at the final one. We turn around to the whole carriage and ask pleadingly: “Does anyone speak English? » The whole carriage shakes its heads in negative. We're already on the verge of "Suss? ". Everyone agrees: "Suss. " And I see that the station is not the one at which we boarded, and we do not get off. They almost push us out of the car, and we resist. Unfortunately, there is no controller. And then one young man was still able to tell us in English that this is Sousse and we need to get out here. We get out and look around in amazement - the wrong station. But another young man who did not speak English showed us to follow him. And we went. Somehow they believed and that's it. He led us to the bus stop. Then we realized that we were asking the wrong question. You had to ask: "Suss Medina", and we just said Souss. Medina is the center of Arab cities, and that's where we needed to go, to the center, to the central station. And this train arrived at the suburban station, so we did not recognize the neighborhood, it was passing and then went somewhere further.
The escort famously jumped into the approaching minibus, but we did not have such a skill. We also needed to find out if she was going to Medina. But I have no idea how to do it in practice. Minibuses there are small, for 8 passengers, and there is a queue at the bus stop for them. One approaches, already almost full, some women are sent to it. And then a man standing nearby pushes them away with his elbows, in the literal sense of the word, without ceremony, squeezes himself in there. They don’t even mind, they are probably used to such treatment. But it was crazy for us. Of course, we also have a “sense of comradeship” dormant somewhere, but in our latitudes it is not so actively used.
We are crowding in line, three or four minibuses have already passed, but there is no way to get into them. The mood had already begun to fall, when suddenly the whole crowd at the bus stop took off and ran somewhere! We are behind them! A well-developed "herd mentality" worked.
This, fortunately for us, is the city bus. Long, with an accordion. He stopped a little further, but we rushed to him, as to the last hope of getting home, and we did the right thing.
To our delight, the bus went through the center, past the Medina, and the controller spoke English! He explained where we needed to get off.
We drove to the center of Sousse. The time is about 17 hours, it is light and sunny (and this is the end of September), +33. We think, well, since it happened, we’ll also see Medina. Do not go again on purpose!
Outside, the medina is surrounded by a fortress wall,
Fortified wall of the Medina of Sousse
But the Medina looks the most interesting for a European from the inside. Labyrinths of narrow streets, open doors, people live their usual lives: they cook something, wash something, eat with the whole family, children run and play.
The narrow streets of the Medina in Sousse
And you understand that their way of life has not changed since the Middle Ages. Most likely, there are no special benefits of civilization there, but the color "goes off scale". On the territory of the Medina there is a mosque of the XIV century, which you can visit, but only in your free time from prayer.
Mosque in Sousse
We were unlucky as the service had just begun. And there is also a small fortified fortress Rabat of the same period.
Rabat Fortress in Sousse
Here we go. It was built from improvised building materials, in which we recognized both Greek columns and Roman pylons.
Greek columns of the Rabat fortress in Sousse
Designed to protect the people of Medina. There were also warehouses with food and weapons.
Fortress Rabat courtyard.
In the fortress, you can climb to the top of the observation tower and view the city center from there. We got up. The sun was going down, but it was still sultry in an African way. Standing up there, we suddenly understood all the charm of Africa, and why it attracted and attracts Europeans so much. There is something so attractive and alluring in this nature, white houses, date palms and the blue-blue sea. Something so, indescribably beautiful, spicy-viscous, that even the heart aches.
Sousse, view from Rabat Fortress
After walking a little more, we set off on our way back to the hotel.
Tourist area of Sousse
But this day could not end smoothly. After all, we were sent tests on the fortress all day long, from above. This became the last. Our city bus did not come on schedule. And the bus stop there is fussy and stupid. Nothing is written anywhere, people are rushing back and forth. There is no one to ask because they do not know English. Minibuses, seeing white people, immediately raised the price. We knew exactly how much a ticket to our hotel costs. And then it came out 2 times more. And we began to wait. This bus must come someday! Our patience was rewarded - in less than an hour and a half, the bus arrived. It was already dark, our hotel, as you remember, in the suburbs. So we asked the conductor to tell us where to get off. And he didn't forget! Shouted to us that the next stop is ours. Thank you, kind person! We even made it to dinner.
It's been such a fun day. Despite the fact that a lot of time has passed, we will remember this day for a long time and well.
