Tver. So different
A spontaneous trip to Tver, where they learned the goat's truth, saw the "Swallow's Nest", got to the "Paris", and "Izya" helped in all this. Palaces, bridges and simply beauty were also not missed...
All week long, my husband was moaning that he should go somewhere for the weekend, not far away and not boring. Together, without children, while they are with their grandmother. Oh, no question, just whistle where. And, it turns out, I have to invent it : )). Frankly, I didn’t have much zeal in this matter, the turf hunger was already quenched by a recent outing in Vladimir and Nizhny Novgorod. Well, I overlooked the nearest district, where I had not yet been, but it would be interesting to take a look - Ryazan, Tula - but I could not find a place to stay for the night. And this is a very important matter - I prefer to decide in advance on the place where the bodies spend the night, in order to calmly engage in walking and spree in the sights or not very remarkable places in the city. And in general, tourism is good, but I have a lot of household chores that should have been done already.
And on Saturday, far from early in the morning, my husband commanded: “Let's go to Tver! ».
- Damn, well, what Tver, I'm somehow not ready in terms of "what to see"... And my eyes have not yet been drawn... And where to stay there?... How are my planned worries…
- You'll study on the way. . . Run to transform already. . . Well, you'll cope with this question. . . I know your girls' business, you'll have time to spend more money. . .
No, well, since the husband said, you must obey, especially when she herself is not very against it)). “The party said – it is necessary! Komsomol answered - yes! » (M. Denisov)
Events developed rapidly! At 11 o'clock in the morning the hotel was booked, at 12 we left by car (north of Moscow) along the paid M11 - the sun is shining, at 14 we were already in the hotel room - it is pouring rain. Why is it raining again. . .
View from the window of the room at the Panorama Hotel
I later found out that one of the factors in choosing Tver was just the opportunity to indulge in Malchuk's amusements – a speed attraction on a toll highway. It doesn’t hurt a lot of experience in this matter, only you sometimes have to go to Sheremetyevo along the M11, but this is what – some kind of pampering – just decided on a comfortable speed, and you already in place. And no matter what the right driver is, I want to drive something : )). A little bit, without much extreme on the free road : )).
When booking a hotel, you try to combine your wishes as much as possible: cost, location relative to places of interest, internal content. According to these parameters, for one night in Tver we liked Panorama Hotel , which in itself belongs to the sights of Tver, or rather the building in which it is located, as the tallest building in the city, and even with a observation platform. And the observation deck when getting to know a new place is an absolutely necessary event for us, so in any case, we are here : )).
Evening views from the observation deck "Panorama":
Looking at the modern facade, one might think that this is a newly born skyscraper.
But no, the building was built for the Olympics-80. Popularly nicknamed the glass, the cob. Rumor has it that the skyscraper was built with many violations and could collapse at any moment, and allegedly the architect who created this building lives nearby, according to his calculations, if the "glass" falls, then not on his house. Something like this : )). Of course, all this is folk talk, the building is standing, now it is the Tver business center with a cinema and concert hall and a restaurant.
Tver Business Center Hall
Panorama Hotel occupies floors 15-19.49 rooms of different categories . On the 22nd floor there is a restaurant "Panorama", where breakfast is served for hotel guests (included in the room rate). Breakfast is continental, hot dishes are selected from three options.
Delicious, satisfying, but it seemed to us for a long time. Perhaps it just seemed. Still, freshly cooked scrambled eggs were served still sizzling. Yes, which is definitely a minus – coffee is served at the same time as the meal, not in a restaurant somehow : ))
Entrance to the observation deck is through the restaurant: upon a call from the administrator, the guard meets you upstairs. Hotel guests are provided with a free ticket for one visit, a third-party entrance costs 200 rubles.
The room we had was the cheapest standard that was left of the simple. With one large bed – this is an improved standard, 200 rubles more expensive, but there were no free ones.
There are few free sockets: one in the room, one in the bathroom. Even the existing three units of electrical equipment in the room (table lamp, telephone, refrigerator) are provided with two sockets. But the presence of normal human shoulders in the closet pleased. The bathroom is tiny, the shower is very narrow, but with all sorts of bells and whistles, however, the volume of the radio is not adjustable, either very loud or not at all : )). Entrance to the rooms from the elevator hall with a key card, the administrator did not warn us, but they themselves did not immediately realize. (More photos in the album)
And one more nuance, but this is rather to the business center in general, and not specifically to the hotel: the elevator is very thoughtful. Not fast – is okay, but the fact that when you stop on the floor, the doors do not open for a long time. A little stressful.
Parking available– is a shared large business center car park. I don’t know how on weekdays, but on weekends, at least put it across the lined parking spaces.
On the whole, without any special super delights. Panorama Hotel I liked it, quite a good option for a stopover in the city, Yes, and on top : ))
Morning views from the restaurant
Morning views from the restaurant
After checking into hotel and leaving the car in the parking lot, we set off to wander around the city. I didn’t read any reports and reviews about Tver, that is, I didn’t have any idea about the city at all: good or bad, beautiful or not very, old or new… Of course, I’m not completely ignorant, and I know that Tver is an old Russian city with a rich history, otherwise, why would we go there for a walk? Exactly - to be imbued with the spirit of antiquity)). And even from somewhere in the depths of consciousness, “Tver is the door to Moscow” surfaced. As a result, Tver struck our unprepared souls, made an impression, and an ambiguous one.
On the way, fluently, as far as the constantly disappearing Internet allowed, I looked through the lists of TOP attractions and figured out an approximate route from and to the hotel, without going into much detail.
Along the Stepan Razin embankment.
Via Novovolzhsky Bridge to River Station.
The Novovolzhsky bridge was built in 1956. Leningrad, dismantled in 1936-38.
Lovely views of River Station(we don't know the whole truth yet). . .
. . . and St. Catherine's Monastery.
Further along the Afanasy Nikitin embankment. . .
The monument to Afanasy Nikitin was erected in 1955 in the presence of the Indian ambassador to the USSR
Views of the City Garden. It was in this place that there was once a pontoon bridge built under Peter I. They say that in three hours under the strict supervision of the king
. . . alongStarovolzhsky Bridge. . .
The Starovolzhsky bridge was built in 1900 to help the pontoon bridge. Then it was called New
. . . to Pathway of the imperial family. At the moment it houses the regional art gallery.
Tver Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral is being built on the site of the one destroyed in 1935
And then somewhere else. . .
At some point, a tourist insight came upon us – we have a friend and comrade – the izi application. TRAVEL (popularly known as Izey) – is a very handy thing! We quickly picked up a suitable tour (in our case it was "Tver in 60 minutes") and went. True, we did it in the opposite direction, but "Izya" is smart, he doesn't care where you go - you approach the sights, and the phone starts broadcasting. Or you don’t even know that this is something historical (although in Tver, it seems, no matter what building you take – it’s all history), and from your phone “Pay attention to a building of some color... ” Here's a picture, you can check whether you're looking in the right place.
We – sightseers are not very disciplined, so we often ran away from the Easy route. You turn into the gateway, and there... the church!
Church of the Nativity in Rybakov
Or the devils are dancing.
Then they returned to "Iza" again, and a voice from the pocket: "Before you. . . " : ))
And yet, I will say about River Station. Here we experienced a shock! While I was looking through the sights in the car, I came across phrases like “it is in a deplorable state”, but not to the same extent...
The way to the River Station
The pier made a very unhappy impression.
Two years ago (August 7-8.2017) the building collapsed. There were checks and disassemblies, and even, it seems, money was allocated... And now, as they say, "there is no money, but you hold on. "
We, as tourists, were at a loss: boats with herds crowds of tourists come here, and land people, as a rule, try to visit here. Well, what kind of gates of the city are these? ! It's a shame for the Tverites. . .
But in general, our walk around the city turned out to be quite expected: ceremonial and demonstrative streets with restored facades.
Monument to Mikhail Tversky on the square of the same name
Tver City Administration on Lenin Square
Forgotten by everyone and all lanes and nooks and crannies with time stopped.
This man was recognized from the back. Non-pedestrian part of Trekhsvyatskaya Street
Pushkinskaya street
Mansion on Radishchev Boulevard
Neighbourhood of centuries.
Sovetskaya street
Sovetskaya street
Modern stains.
Photogenic Volga, decorated with bridges.
Starovolzhsky Bridge
Novovolzhsky Bridge
Not very touristy Zavolzhie.
Small architectural forms scattered along boulevards and squares.
Funny signs.
Some not very cheerful circus.
And cheerful Tverskaya Square.
We did not bypass the goat place– Goat Museum.
An interesting place - a huge collection of goats of very different appearance : ) If there is not enough time, maybe it's not worth rushing there. But on occasion, you can drop in, and always in a laughing mood. If you are sad or thoughtful, you will not understand, and everything will seem stupid.
Entrance is free for owners of goat and all other sheep names! We have a bird, but we could not stretch the thread of evolution : ). And even the presence of a common relative - a winged unicorn - did not allow us to save a little : )).
Already at dusk, on the approaches to our hotel through the arches of a semicircular building on Pushkin Square (there is Vystavochny hall) saw a picturesque building, downright a castle. It turns out that in the photo from the heights "Panoramas" (at the very beginning of the text) it is also there, it's me already when parsing blockages I saw the pictures.
We walked a lot along the streets of the old Tver, drove a little through the sleeping areas. Churches, monuments, houses, Krug, Galyani, Dementiev… But I will tell you about one area of the city, which is not yet very common in tour reviews.
There is a unique place in Tver - Proletarka Yard. It, of course, is located away from the tourist trails, but, if possible, look there. That's where the explosive mixture of past and present. Something to think about. . .
That workers' town, built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries at the Morozovs' manufactory, was called the Morozov town. And he became a proletarian according to the spirit of the time. In a modern way, this is a huge residential complex with its own infrastructure: a hospital, a nursery, a fire station, a theater and even an observatory.
According to the descriptions, these steps are native, ever since then. . . Worn to holes, but unbroken.
Some buildings are still in use today. The modern Morozovsky shopping complex is located in one of the production facilities of the manufactory, which employed a total of 14.000 people!
The building, one of the first barracks built for workers, has been restored. Now there is the Diocesan Orthodox Secondary School of St. Tikhon Zadonsky. The building of the national theater lives, there is a sports club. Here in this photo on the left is the former theater, on the right is the corner of the school. I originally photographed a sports ground among the old buildings, when I did not yet have detailed information.
What is in the building of the fire station, they did not figure it out, the sign is too far away, the gate is closed, and there are no symbols on the maps. It looks like a museum, and along the fence there are stands with historical notes about the area.
Most of the residential barracks are in a state of disrepair, but life there is warm, seething in places and breathing fumes. Looking at all this past solidity and modern abandonment, it hurts.
In 1910, at the World Exhibition in Paris, Morozovsky town received a gold medal as the best working town in the world! Wow, what a nomination was...
The most striking building of the entire complex today is the residential building at number 70 with the tempting name Paris barracks, which was reconstructed in 1968.
Why "Paris" in particular is not known for certain. Most likely, due to the fact that the barracks began to be built just in honor of the victory of the Partnership at the World Exhibition.
The building is not only bright and eye-catching, ancient, strong and solid (outwardly), but also unusual... in terms of the location of the entrances.
We walked around it: in the house there are 7 or 8 (I don’t remember) entrances located around the entire perimeter. And the numbering of the entrances is strange, out of order... I can lie now, I didn’t think to write it down, from one side from left to right - 5.4, 1.2, then go to the other side - 3.6, 7... Something like that. In general, the enemy will not pass : )).
If you are interested in the history and present of the Proletarka Court, look here.
We saw such a different Tver: young and old, beautiful and dirty, well-groomed and abandoned, direct provincial and proud townswoman, open and understandable and... mysterious. Mixed feelings left this city…
A little personal: I associate Tver with a rather young woman, but who has already seen a lot of adversity, beautiful, but somewhat shabby, somehow not up to hairstyles. Oh, the peasant would be to her, the owner!
