Ryazan paddock
And in Ryazan– mushrooms with eyes. Vorobeichikovs and went for mushrooms... : ))
In this story, in fact, as always, I have a minimum of usefulness, lack of recommendations and vivid illustrations - only drool-snot emotions. In general, just akyn something: what I see, I sing about : ))
We did not plan anything for the New Year holidays. Nothing at all. For a number of reasons, there was neither mood nor desire. And, in general, everything is somehow not very joyful in this world.
But I knew that it would definitely happen that I would suddenly have to go somewhere. And it will become my concern - to figure out where. Yes, so that not far, not for long, so that children do not get bored and adults do not feel sad. Well, what's the problem? . .
Urban sculpture in Ryazan "Girl on the bench"
Therefore, I periodically looked through the directions closest to Moscow within a 3-4-hour auto-throw.
Ryazan- that's where you need to look, if anything.
We have never been there yet, although we often pass by, several times a year on the way to Saransk and back. And for us, Ryazan is the southern ring road, garages and a huge dump. And you need to change the associative series : )). After all, Ryazan is an ancient Russian city. The year of foundation is considered to be 1095, according to the first mentions in written sources. Then it was Pereyaslavl-Ryazansky, at that time one of the many settlements of the principality. Since the same Ryazan, the capital of the Ryazan principality, is a completely different city, located about 50 km from this place. In the present, there is an archaeological site Old Ryazan settlement, protected by the state, which is part of Ryazan Historical and Architectural Museum of the Reserve.
The monument to Evpaty Kolovrat, the hero of the legends and traditions of the Ryazan lands of the 13th century, was installed in 2007 After the destruction of Ryazan by the troops of Batu, Kolovrat gathered the remnants of the squad and set off in pursuit of the enemy. He and his comrades inflicted a lot of damage on Batu's army, but the forces were unequal. Batu was struck by the courage and strength of the hero, for which he allowed the surviving Russian soldiers to take the body of their governor and bury it with honors.
Old Ryazan was ravaged by the troops of Batu Khan in 1237. The city was never able to recover from the tragedy. By the end of the 13th century, Archbishop Vasily Ryazansky settled in Pereyaslavl-Ryazansky. Later, the princes also moved to Pereyaslavl. And Pereyaslavl-Ryazan became the capital city of the principality of Ryazan, which we now know as Ryazan.
And, in fact, it already became Ryazan (or only, how to look) in 1778 by decree of Empress Catherine II. However, it is better to read about history in the relevant sources. Yes, at least on the official website of the city administration there is historical background. Or more details on regional government website. Anyway, I liked it more than Wikipedia : ).
And now the festive fireworks have died down, the refrigerator has been cleaned, it has not ended yet, but the supply of champagne in the bins has noticeably run out. It's time to change the scene! At the questioning look of my husband, I replied: “We are going to Ryazan! Then… Zaraysk, then… we’ll see. ”
Under "we'll see" just in case, I planned Kolomna. But, having learned about my grandiose plans, my husband called the route "Kremlin bust. "
And I discarded this idea, especially since we have already been to Kolomna ("About Kolomna in Kolomna and a little about Kolomna" a>). Indeed, "overkill" could happen. If someone is not in the know, then in all three cities the main attraction is the Kremlin. There, of course, there is still a lot of interesting things, but the Kremlin is the basis, both in the historical sense and in the tourist one. But more on that later.
We prefer overnight trips. So you better feel the new place, yeah, sleep with him. Yes, and it is easier physically, without haste and strong straining. In addition, winter days are short, and in cities, as a rule, it is also sulfur. But the evenings become bright and elegant thanks to the New Year's illumination.
The Ryazan Regional Philharmonic. The building was built in 1956 to replace the dilapidated wooden building of the Summer Theatre. In 1949, in the very central part of the city, which was considered the City Park with the Summer Theater, a monument was erected to the great physiologist, Nobel laureate I. P. Pavlov, a native of Ryazan. To the right and left of the building in the past Gostiny Dvor, built in the late 18th century - early 19th century
And children are generally delighted with spending the night away from home. This is something so adult, going beyond their usual way of life. This is not at home!
The Chapel of All Saints who shone forth in the land of Ryazan is located in the Cathedral Park near the Kremlin. The chapel was built in 1995 for the 900th anniversary of Ryazan
Of course, by the time the decision was made to leave, the choice to stop in Ryazan had noticeably decreased, but something remained. Give us, as always, cheaper from a decent one, with parking, well, it would be more central). Of the several options available, the choice fell on Atlantic Hotel, which at first seemed like a date place, but in fact turned out to be a very nice hotel. But more about the place of our overnight stay in a separate review.
To be quite frank, our children, a 10-year-old mischievous girl and a 9-year-old boy, are not very happy with going through torments through antiquities and, as they say, adult monuments. So what to do? It is necessary, it is necessary to expand your horizons, although, practically, forcedly, because there is no one to leave them at home : )). Come on, we're not that much of a tormentor.
They love, although they grumble (I say, bad guys), our children are like trips, since on such days various excesses in the form of burgers, for example, are allowed. No, we are not ardent adherents of a healthy lifestyle, or rather, we are not adherents at all, but we don’t eat burgers every day : ))
Or pasties. Ah, what pasties in Ryazan!
Gov -? : )) Nothing like that, just with beef : ))
I don't remember the name of the cheburechnaya, it is located on the pedestrian Pochtovaya street, probably, it is - "Cheburechnaya".
On that street, as in all similar spaces given to the torn apart by tourists, spaces are full of similar goodness food-oriented establishments. And all of them are good in their own way, but cheburek - oh, the place is sincere and atmospheric and even tasty : )). Picky kids appreciated it.
The Museum of the History of the Ryazan Candy was chosen as the children's component of this Ryazan paddock. Very cozy and informative, telling about the history of sugar making both in the world (a little), and about the development of the industry in the Ryazan province, and, of course, about the most interesting thing - the secrets of the appearance of the most popular candy form in the form of a cockerel.
The museum is small, created by Ryazan enthusiasts, but with the support of local authorities in the form of a dedicated and renovated room in the basement of an old mansion.
The exposition occupies two halls, which you can see on your own.
But it's better, nevertheless, with a tour. On weekends, holidays and vacations, due to the tourist boom in the country, the museum is popular.
Therefore, on such days it is better to sign up for a tour, book a place on the website or by phone.
Did you make lollipops as a child? Oh, how grandmother scolded us for quickly running out of sugar in the sugar bowl and spoiled spoons : )).
Unfortunately, we did not manage to get to the master class, it was close to closing. But in addition to the lollipops donated by the museum, they replenished their stocks in the tea room located right there.
And we'll go for a walk further.
The most important sight of the city, its heart, the place of origin, the starting point of the beginning of life's journey is the Ryazan Kremlin.
The Kremlin, as such, has not been preserved.
But a complex of buildings located on the territory of the then Kremlin has survived to this day. Now it is Ryazan Historical and Architectural Museum-Reserve.
On the official website of the museum-reserve there is a lot of useful information about ongoing exhibitions and events, including historical information about the objects located on the territory. By the way, admission to the territory is free, and to visit exhibitions, of course, you need to purchase tickets, there are separate and complex ones.
The Assumption Cathedral was built in 1693-99. The temple is summer, and is currently open for visits only in the warm season. And so I wanted to look at the unique carved iconostasis, which is also considered the largest in Russia. In 1800, the temple was nearly demolished due to dilapidation, but the townspeople raised funds for its restoration.
In the Soviet years, there was a planetarium in it, later museum expositions were arranged
Becoming a capital city, Pereyaslavl Ryazansky began to actively develop and grow. The Kremlin was rebuilt and expanded, as required by those turbulent times. But he never became a stone. The boundaries of the Russian State were moving away, and the Kremlin's defensive need disappeared by itself. Just at the end of the 18th century, the dilapidated towers and walls of the Kremlin were finally demolished, Pereyaslavl Ryazansky became Ryazan, active civil construction began, as Catherine II pointed out, according to approved parallel-perpendicular plans.
Glebovsky bridge. Once it was a wooden drawbridge near the Gleb Tower. The current version was built in the 18th century. You can see a building that does not look like a church at all. But this is the temple of Elijah the Prophet. It was built in 1699-1700. She was rebuilt several times.
And even in 1940, when the church was no longer in operation, the building was once again redone in order to remove the similarity with church architecture. As usual, it was used in all kinds of different ways, and in the 90s of the last century it was planned to be converted into a Wedding Palace, which never happened
We were only able to get to the Ryazan Kremlin only at dusk, and in January they advance oh so fast. It's good that there is a New Year's illumination! She so decorates everyday life and brightens up sometimes unsightly pictures.
First of all, we are greeted by the graceful and slender Cathedral Bell Tower, built on the site of the Gleb Tower of the Kremlin . The bell tower was built for a long time, from 1789 to 1840. At the best of times, an observation deck was opened. Maybe by the summer season it will resume its work? I definitely didn’t work that day, otherwise I would have visited it : )
Defensive shaft. Previously, the wooden walls of the Kremlin towered on it. Now it is used for walking and from the hill of skating events : ). Oh, and our equipment was left in the car at the hotel. < /p>
Nativity Cathedral. Looking at it, it seems that it is not so ancient in comparison with the rest of the buildings of the Kremlin complex. But in fact, it was founded at the end of the XIV century by Prince Oleg Ryazansky, and before the appearance of the Assumption Cathedral, it was the Assumption Cathedral. And yes, this is the first stone church on the territory of the Kremlin. It served as the tomb of the Ryazan princes. What we see now is the result of numerous reconstructions and repairs. The last reconstruction took place in 1913
Savior Transfiguration Cathedral, consecrated in 1702. All this is the former territory Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery, closed in 1920
. Its areas were used for various needs, but in 1935 they were transferred to the museum
Bishop's Court. On the left - the so-called Oleg's Palace - the former residential chambers of the Ryazan bishops, a monument of civil architecture of the 17th-19th centuries. The name came from the image of the famous Ryazan prince, Oleg Ivanovich, who was once located on the pediment. On the right is the Singing Corps, 17th century.
More photos in the album.
The city was conveniently located on the Astrakhan highway, which contributed to the rapid development of trade. And by the end of the XVII century. - the beginning of the XVIII century. Ryazan became a strong merchant city.
The main house of the estate of the Ryazan merchant, philanthropist P. A. Malshin, built in 1790 -s years. Now many different organizations occupy the premises, including the Museum of Travelers
And in the 19th century, with the advent of the railway, and a powerful industrial center.
Many buildings have been preserved from those times, which are still in use today.
Oh, I wish I could remove the parking lot...
Much, of course, is lost. Here, for example, are the Trade Rows on Khlebnaya Square (now Lenin Square), built at the beginning of the 19th century.
True, initially there were six buildings, but in order to increase the free space on the square, some of the buildings were demolished in the Soviet period. Parades had to be held somewhere.
Lenin Square, turning into Pervomaisky Avenue
And the surviving two buildings were in decline for a long time. Now they have been restored. One of them is used for its direct trade purpose, and the second is in the process of resolving all sorts of economic disputes, is empty, in short.
In modern Ryazan, the past heritage is closely intertwined with modern architecture. Sometimes it's good, sometimes it's not so good.
Much has been restored, something else is waiting in the wings.
Once the best hotel in the city, owned by the Russified German N. K. Steiert . The hotel was equipped with the latest technology of that time (at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries) and, accordingly, the most noble gentlemen settled in it. In the Soviet years, a solid building was chosen by the state security services. Now it houses the Office of the Federal Service of the National Guard Troops of the Russian Federation for the Ryazan Region
There are also remakes.
No matter how much we love to scold these same remakes, some are very good. Here, for example, is a fashionable place in Ryazan - Munsterskaya Street, named after Ryazan's sister city of the German city of Munster.
Well, it's okay that the London Double decker (double-decker bus) somehow wormed its way into the German theme.
But it's bright, fresh and joyful. This street in its short life (built in 2016-17) has already become very fond of both locals and tourists, and has become, in fact, an obligatory Turkish when getting to know the city.
In fact, all these "German" houses are Old Town hotel and restaurant complex. Such a nice complex, but on our dates there were no free rooms in it. It's a pity.
But the lacy wooden mansions of the 19th - early 20th centuries caused me a special thrill. By what miracle were they able to survive? ! Or not by a miracle, but by everyday necessity ... After all, many are still inhabited, and some are used by various organizations. Unfortunately, there are also empty ones, their appearance is quite depressing. Time, of course, takes its toll - this is understandable. But even if a person leaves the building, it somehow immediately deteriorates, and very quickly, the soul leaves it, the house dies ...
Here are just a few that we managed to capture along the way on foot. And how many more flashed through the windows of the car while we traveled around the city.
The house of L. A. Zagoskin, the first explorer of Alaska p>
The house of N. I. Rodzevich, mayor in 1906-1912 small>
This house also belonged to Tretyakov. He is in the neighbors with the one above in the picture. And the next Profitable house of merchant Chernavsky
The former elementary school of the 2nd male gymnasium, now the center of additional education "Phoenix"
Profitable house of honorary citizen A. M. Ovsyannikov, resettled in 2017 < /small>
I really wanted to wander the streets of Ryazan longer and longer. But there are some inconveniences when traveling with children, they do not always share the desires of adults, especially in terms of walkers. Sometimes, it seems to me, it’s even more convenient with kids: they put you in a stroller and take you where you need to go.
And the grown ones, not only resist, they also know how to resent : )). Well, oh well, Ryazan is not going anywhere from us, we’ll look again sometime. There's a lot we haven't seen yet. And even the famous "Mushrooms with eyes" have not been seen. Yes, that's it : ).
But there is an original thermometer in the photo archive and the Eiffel Tower, small, but the Eiffel is the same with a cap : )
Perhaps, on this, I will finish my “song” about the Ryazan paddock. And there is already a continuation of it - about the glorious town of Zaraysk, where we headed from Ryazan. Here - in the story "Zaraisk. Nice to meet you! ».