camp site in Adygea
A year ago, a friend told me how well she had spent a week at the thermal springs in Adygea. She (and I) have problems with the musculoskeletal system. She enjoyed the trip very much. Knowing that she speaks of many places with enthusiasm, I don’t like our “unobtrusive service”, I listened to the enthusiasm and forgot. When another friend asked if I was going to go on vacation somewhere in the summer, I did not have the opportunity or even the strength to think about it. I just remembered about the thermal springs and the enthusiasm about them and sent her a link to the place given by my first friend. She read it, said that the place was curious and useful for the UDF. And even the second positive review did not make me want to look at information about the place. At the end of the summer, after a little rest and realizing that the situation with the rest is rather sad, and winter, dankness and darkness are already close, I looked at the links of the second friend (she added others to the first ones, but in the same area).
our route in Adygea
There were several reasons to go. 1) The Caucasus attracted me (and I love rocks for a long time). A year earlier, I was there for the first time (in the Armenian Highlands; we spent one night near the border with Georgia, where the mountains are rocky and wooded - I like this kind of nature). The Russian part of the Caucasus is significantly higher. Why not look at her? 2) To warm up the joints (like a sanatorium) was also tempting. 3) This place was invited to go by a travel agency with which I traveled in recent years and knew how to provide decent conditions for recreation (as if a recommendation from friends). 4) Recently, only nature gives me a feeling of relaxation. Therefore, I go less and less “for information”, more and more often - for rest “for the head” with a load on the legs, when you go somewhere, moving your legs monotonously, and it brightens in your head. It is useful for office workers to unload their heads, load their legs - as opposed to the usual pastime. The change of activity is the rest.
Sanatorium didn't pop up somehow. I began to read the information sent to me about the rest at the thermal springs in Adygea. Quite comfortable dwellings with the usual conditions for an urban person were called camp sites: a bed, ceramic plumbing, a dining room. They promised 3 meals a day (which means you won’t have to go to the store, cook or look for a place, you won’t get poisoned). Going out into nature for a short time with a light backpack that is common in everyday life. Everything - in combination with daily thermal springs, which I, not a fan of frequent water procedures, perceived with some caution (there was a negative experience with hygiene in many places of the problem). But here the pool was promised after walking, in order to relieve the load.
“This suits me, ” I decided. A week before departure, I booked a plane ticket for the proposed transfer of the Activation camp site (it seems that the travel agency known to me offered it). The next day, before buying a ticket, I began to call there to clarify if there were seats. An additional point of choosing this particular camp site was that no matter what question I asked by e-mail about the amenities, I was answered with a positive answer. It bribed, because. the hostel in my view is either a tent or a barrack without any special amenities; equipment not always in good condition; going out “to nature” - with a backpack over your shoulders, from which the entire spine then buzzes; cooking on a campfire on their own. And I didn’t want such a rest at all, because. Even at the age of 20, she could not rest in such conditions. For me, rest is comfort. You don't need much, but no cooking, no long hikes with an overnight stay in a tent, no heavy backpack. Tents, kayaks, etc. are just not for me. I have neither the experience nor the appropriate equipment.
I had three programs for staying on the spot: from a well-known travel agency, sent by the camp site in the contract, taken from the site of the camp site called "autumn-spring" (I'm going in early September! ). In all three: 3 meals a day, excursions or hikes between breakfast and lunch, lunch and dinner, after dinner - a trip "to the waters". Not boring and useful.
At the airport, I was looking for a designated cafe for a long time (it was hidden behind a fence). But the locals suggested. The road is mostly boring: along the plain, among the fields and under the strange conversations “off topic” of the one who meets. I even challenged him a few times. True, realizing that it was pointless to object to the talker, she fell silent.
The camp site is a 2-storey cottage, an instructors' house, a bathhouse, 2 rocking benches, 2 sheds (under one they laid a common table) and a house with a kitchen and an internal dining room (when it rains or is cold), parking for 3 passable cars. On the territory there is a cage with raccoons. I would rate the conditions in a 3 * hotel: there is a hairdryer, a kettle, a comfortable and wide bed, a shower (the water was turned off once in the entire village, it was accumulated at the base and warned about this in advance), flat-screen TV. Sockets are not very conveniently hidden behind furniture. But you can use it with extension cords or a retracted nightstand.
the camp site
The thermal springs are located almost near Maikop, 30-40 km from the base. You can’t get there on your own, although the program states that, if you wish, you can visit them for an additional fee. We had a swimming pool with 5 pools: from 20° to about 40° (including one for children). The coldest and next in temperature can be called swimming (but in warmer it is worth swimming slowly). The rest - baths (however, swimming at high temperatures is not recommended; here everyone sits in the neck in the water and warms themselves). The music is fun, but it's loud. All are open. If you visit not in summer, and in the rain (or snow) of winter or off-season, then be sure to have a warm bathrobe in addition to a towel in order to walk from the locker room to the pool and back. There are showers in the locker rooms, but it's hard to set it up. And no one uses them until the pool. Hats are also not worn on the head. Well, it's a hygiene issue. Water has a good effect on ODA, skin.
The base is located on the southern outskirts of the village of Kamennomostsky. The mountains around are a little over 600 m, wooded. Nearby is the road from the quarry where stone is mined (either gypsum, or limestone, or both), and the railway, along which the stone is taken out daily. Dust does not reach, but there is noise, during the day. The village is long, boring: not suitable for independent walks, although there is a park somewhere.
Kamennomostsky village
There were 11 people in the race, including one young woman on a more active program (she also went camping with an overnight stay in the mountains). The rest came, like me, to see something and bask in the water.
We were fed 3 times a day, hearty and varied (according to those who have been to other places). True, there was no local cuisine (but I met it in the description). If we left for the whole day, we were given lunch boxes (a hamburger that is incomparable to McDonald's) and in the evening they were given soups that were missed during the day. The cook is beyond praise. She first asked about who does not eat something. I replied that I don’t like milk, but I don’t take cheese in my mouth. And she cooked in such a way that there was practically no milk (once they forgot, they did something with cheese, but they immediately prepared another breakfast for me).
3 people worked with us: 2 instructors, a director (we were taken by 3 cars, accompanied). The one that met us most often drove most of the company (6 people). His jeep had a converted luggage compartment, where there were 2 benches. Alas, people were transported there, and the roads are sometimes serpentines, sometimes primers, climb high. At the same time, the speed is much higher than the allowed one. People, on their own initiative, changed places so that someone would not always end up in uncomfortable places. I had conflicts with this instructor. In addition to the nonsense that he told (I just didn’t listen, the others were probably interested), he once forgot to take a person to the thermal pools (he returned); did not meet us from the horse ride, because of which we were forced to walk along the road where the dump trucks carry the stone and breathe in the dust. At the same time, the cook, her assistants, and the owner of the horses apologized. The director apologized only on the eve of departure, when I recalled this story. And the instructor who brought us to the stable and took away the backpacks with the phones did not deign to do so. Apparently, he considered it normal to deprive people of communication and not pick them up. Such disrespect to people ruined my holiday. There are slips, that's normal. But I think that if you work with people, you need to be able to apologize. Then people will generally react positively to your camp site.
I will list the excursions (or simple hikes) promised in the contract sent between meals: 1) hiking in the Khadzhokskaya gorge 2) to the Rufabgo waterfalls 3) Krasnoe lake and its environs (Mishoko gorge) 4) Guam gorge 5) horseback riding for 2 or 5 hours 6) St. Michael Athos Monastery 7) Lago-Naki plateau and Big Azish cave 8) confluence of the Dakh and Belaya rivers 9) "Wild beach", "Stone labyrinths", Azish-tau rock.
Now comments for each place seen.
1) Khadzhok Gorge is located on the southern outskirts of the village of Kamennomostsky (formerly Khadzhok). Entrance is paid, 400 rubles. The place is beautiful. Worth a visit, but hardly more than once. On the territory there are cages with bears (one is dancing), red wolves (imported to the Caucasus), ungulates. Something like a zoo, who are interested in animals in cages.
Hadzhok Gorge
2) Rufabgo Falls. Located south of the camp site. On foot you need to go south from the village along the road. Not next to the camp site. Entrance is paid, 400 rubles. At the entrance is something like a museum. Curious. Tells about the life of the Circassians (no comments). Several posters, which are also difficult to understand without comments. Along the stream (or river) stretches equipped trail to the third waterfall. It is already difficult to climb further.
at Rufabgo waterfalls
3) Krasnoe Lake - a reservoir at the bottom of an abandoned quarry, past which dump trucks from another quarry with a stone constantly drive. Not far from the camp site, but is it worth going there? We stopped at the top of an old quarry. Dump trucks passed by a couple of times. We were taken even higher, to a clearing above the Mishiko Gorge. Amusements are equipped there: those who wish to cross the gorge on a cable, climb the path (suspension bridge, cables, etc. ) and return along another cable. One of the group "flew", but this is already extreme, for those who lack adrenaline in life. And, of course, for a fee, it seems, 2000 rubles. They also apparently give ATVs.
4) Guam Gorge. It is located 100 km from the base. Riding on the road, through a low pass, km 15 - on a terrible dirt road. Not many people walk in the gorge itself (it is narrow, about once an hour a train or a trolley runs at 1700 m). On the day when we were there, there was no train, we were taken on a handcar instead of it (on other days it carries from the train stop to the end of the gorge - another 1800 m). Under the rattle they talked about the gorge. The price of a railcar is 300 rubles. one way. On foot, we walked a little further than the stopping place, along the sleepers. And quickly returned back to catch the return railcar. Before this gorge, we were brought to the village of Mezmay. There we walked along the winding path to the waterfall. I liked it, but it was difficult for others to go. They also promised some kind of Eagle Rock. But there was no time for her. If I saw correctly, the place is also not for an unprepared person.
Kurdzhips River in the Guam Gorge
5) Horse riding organizes a ranch, which is located near the cable over the Mishoko Gorge. Get on the road with dump trucks, which is higher. 2 hours - 1000 rubles, 5 hours - 1500 rubles. First, everyone is rolled around the old garden. It is hot, they cross several times the road from the quarry (dust). Then, in a 2-hour walk, one stop at the observation deck over the Mishoko gorge. At 5 o'clock - one stop for lunch at the beautiful rock Devil's Finger, approximately above the village of Dakhovsky. Those who refused horse riding went to the same place. They climbed the cable car to the Tethys extreme park, walked through the forest to the cliff. It was the easiest route. On a horseback ride, out of habit (2nd time on a horse with a 30-year break), all the joints of my legs ached. Brought on both walks by car. They took out only those who arrived for 2 hours. Then they visited the Belovodie Museum.
Fucking finger
6) St. Michael Athos Monastery. I drove with the location in mind. But as soon as they said “put on headscarves”, she refused to come in. For me, clothes for visiting religious places are covered knees, shoulders, stomach. All. The rest is redundant and unjustified demands. I have seen more impudent clothes more than once: a bare belly, an open neckline, tight and short skirts or trousers... but in a headscarf. And who is more appropriately dressed? Me or those in headscarves? That's why I can't describe it. We walked with the second instructor (driver of the 2nd car) until the horses were driven out, through the monastery garden, ate pears. We climbed to the observation deck, where he showed the surroundings and explained what was visible. The rest ran in a hurry to the same place, told me about what annoyed them at the moment of my absence in the second instructor.
7) Lago-Naki Plateau and the Big Azish Cave. The road there is quite broken, partly a dirt road. But now it is under construction. Perhaps later it will become quite convenient for travel. On the way we stopped at a surprisingly voluminous tree. Next - at the hotel with an observation deck. The place is beautiful. You can look at the mountains below and in the distance for hours.
Then - a plateau with a height of 1800 m. There it lays ears, a rather strong wind blows. Climbing rocks, but short.
view of the Lago-Naki plateau and dry Kurdzhips
The next stop is nearby (you can walk) - at the cordon of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve. At the entrance they told about the bison.
On the way back - Big Azishskaya cave. Price - 500 rubles. Equipped with metal (steep) stairs. Badly lit. The guide in the cave said that you can take pictures on the way back, when he finishes the tour. Don't believe. Without lighting his flashlight (or yours), it is difficult or impossible to photograph. You need to do this when he directs the light to the place he is talking about. Or buy a book with a photo (as I did) at the entrance. I did not visit the unequipped part with the river. The river is visible from above.
in the Crown Hall of the Big Azish Cave
8) Confluence of the Dakh and Belaya rivers. What we were shown can hardly be called a "merger". We were on the bridge in Dakhovskaya. The bridge is not old, the inscription "1906", but abandoned. We drove in a jeep under the bridge, then across it. Everything takes about 15 minutes. We are on the way back from Lago-Naki.
9) "Wild Beach", "Stone labyrinths", Azish-tau rock. I can't even remember what day we went there. Apparently, after the gorge. Wild Beach is a beautiful place on the Belaya River. "Stone labyrinths" - a narrow path between the stones, where they arranged a toilet. Azish-tau rock - apparently, a rock to which we climbed under the water dripping on it and did not go further. These are places located between the Hadzhok Gorge and the Rufabgo waterfalls.
Azish-Tau rock
If you are able to lift your legs high, walk on slippery ground and roots, then you will master these trips. Shoes, however, should still be like sneakers, better - with grooved soles. Only the locals wear flip-flops. If not, limit yourself to visiting thermal springs. And it’s better to choose a place closer to them or on their territory, so as not to be connected by transport (I somehow didn’t see public or “shuttles”).
