Here is Domodedovo. Qatari service from the first steps - no one to check in, instantly checked in the luggage, went to roam around the dutik: We boarded the plane, it seems that we are sincerely glad that we have chosen their company, the service is 5 stars, as they are positioned. Doha. We were here for the first time, we were surprised that there were no sleeves to the terminal, we got off the plane along the ladder - it was covered with 40-degree heat, and this was at 4 in the morning!
The terminal was covered with 18-degree cold - oh, these Azats, they are trying to show everyone how well their air conditioners work. We smoked bamboo for 2 hours - please take the plane to Bangkok. There are no sleeves again - we go to the plane by bus for about 10 minutes, and in circles, on the way - a sightseeing tour of Doha, their skyscrapers are far away, some kind of fortress is nearby. We drove up to the plane. Delicious plentiful food again, unlimited drinking, pillows with blankets, movies, TV programs, games, etc.
Welcome Bangkok! Went outside to smoke - again covered - native suffocating damp heat. The son is in shock, this is his first time in BKK - if it is like this in the evening, what will happen during the day? They reassured me that in 10 days on the island he would get used to both the heat and the humidity. We are waiting for the Sebush plane. Pleasantly surprised - zero airbus! Food for money - budget airlines, what to do! Have a bite and sleep: sleep? Yep, right now! Whoa turbulent! Like on a broken primer in a cart!
One thing is not clear - there was no signal to fasten the seat belts: the Cathars would have fastened everyone long ago and straightened the chairs and ordered to cover their heads with their hands! And this though henna! Flight attendants sit chatting, as if nothing had happened! It is clear, then the flight takes place in the normal mode, it should shake: Well, at least not for long, 3.5 hours. We fly up to Manila - the rain pours, we fly over the road - the cars are up to the hood in the water !! ! How do they go - it is not clear! The plane lands, it is clear that it slows down with difficulty - still, the water from the take-off does not have time to merge! We roll up to the terminal - thank God, they gave us a sleeve. Terminal? 3 practically works only on Cebu Pacific. New, in places not yet completed - treadmills have not yet been launched, but they are. Spacious, glass, metal, polished porcelain stoneware and: cold. Again kondei to the fullest! And we are in T-shirts! And sit something more than 5 hours!
We ran and smoked outside - the rain continues, but shallow, deep puddles, it seems to be pouring in the morning, but oh well, we knew that we were going in the off-season! The only thing, pleases, +27, warmed up at least. Went to register. First, we weighed the luggage, we are calm - for three 20 kilos, we fit with a margin, weighed us (they weigh passengers on small planes) - again calm - we are not fast food lovers, we compete in middle weight. Go to your gate. While we crouched on the chairs (they don’t have dividing handles - you can lie down), the boarding time is coming: Boarding time is passing: Guys, open the boarding! There were 3 flights to Caticlan in front of us, everyone was announced and taken away by a girl with a sign . They sent a small (19 years old) to find out the glassing - he is our most important Englishman. He came, he says, the flight is delayed, probably, because no one knows for sure. We look out the window - we don’t understand anything - the rain is over, the sun, the clouds are rare, why don’t we fly ?!
Another half an hour of waiting, so, it seems, our flight is announced: Yes, our flight! OUR FLIGHT IS CANCELED! AND ALL THE FOLLOWING TOO!! ! Go and change your tickets! For tomorrow!! ! CATASTROPHE!!!! ! We go to get luggage, feverishly thinking about what we will do in Manila, since it was not included in the plans to stop for a day in the capital of the Philippines, and where to stay? I frantically try to remember the names of the recommended hotels in the Makati region: There is already a long queue to the exchange counter - we can make the first flight tomorrow and not rebook: Damn! Why is this free stand nearby? They all serve Cebu Pacific: Well, let's try to ask! We approach with weeping faces - they say, we ourselves are not local, help in any way you can: And they help! Hooray!! ! They change our Caticlan tickets for today, for Kalibo! The island is the same, but the boat station on Boracay is 1.5 hours away by car! Bullshit! We take! Flight in 20 minutes! Run to check in luggage, run through controls, run to the gate. Stop!
Again, the same picture, the boarding is closed, no one knows anything, the little one hesitated, they finally said - the island does not accept, finally no one flew to Caticlan today, this flight, if it flies, will be the first to Kalibo: What do they have there for the weather? Hurricane-storm-typhoon? Maybe it's true, it's better to sit out in Manila? But then the island gives the go-ahead and we are loaded onto the plane. The flight was terrible. Just terrible. Everyone was seated fastened, including flight attendants, almost only locals flew, with such faces that they are 90 percent sure that we will not make it: The number of holes was not counted, the plane practically crashed three times (apparently, there is practically no lift for the wing in a very thick cloud), it was so cloudy that it seemed that the portholes were completely covered with white paper. And suddenly! The clouds are gone, hello Panay Island!
A bay with boats, palm trees, houses, a rivulet: no, not a rivulet, a turbulent stream with clay, the sea is near brown, rice fields are not green, brown, rice is not visible, a lot of water! Yeah, probably, the rain was sickly! They sat down, taxied to a tiny airport, got out - stuffiness, it was raining. The boys went to get luggage, I stand, I smoke - I see, a local handsome man stands with a sign , the names are different, but the hotel for the first day is ours! Can we sit on the tail? I'm going to find out - the handsome man phoned the hotel, said he would wait for the owners of the names on the plate and take us. I just started some kind of revenge blizzard about spending the night in Kalibo, like there are no boats on Boracay. Well, you went, brother, to: We'll get there ourselves! We jumped into the minibus, we're going to the Caticlan! After four flights and two sleepless nights (well, I can't sleep on the plane), my eyes close: Don't sleep! Look!
They did not count on a sightseeing tour of Panay - once it happened - look at the life of the local population! But life is not very: There is vanity in the rice fields - excess water is drained! And there is a lot of water! We drove through several streams - just turbulent streams, judging by the flooded banks! Probably the guys dripped more than one day! At the next intersection in some village, the police slowed down, the driver talked, shook his head, phoned someone, but still drove on. What was the matter, he did not say. After a couple of kilometers, we ourselves understood. A landslide has blocked the road! No road! True, the excavator has already been brought in, it is already clearing everything, but this is not half an hour! It turned out it was all bullshit! Right now we will unload, with the help of locals with suitcases we will cross over the blockage, and on the other side of the blockage another minibus is already waiting for us - our carrier called up to him! This is a service for tourists! This is the struggle for the client!
We unload, the aborigines pick up our suitcases, us - by the hands, and forward, through the clay, the stones to the other side. We are loaded into another bass - Caticlan is waiting for us! Or not waiting? It turned out that he was not waiting: There were sad farangs at the boat station (mostly Koreans), there were NO boats to Boracay! From yesterday's lunch! AMBUSH!! ! And in Manila not a single dog said that! We snack on kebabs (mmm, yummy) from Andoc * s, we think where to spend the night. A local helper offers apartments for three for 1300 pesos, to go from the station for 50 pesos, to watch or not? Nafig go, went on foot, returned in 5 minutes - a room of 4 square meters. m, one and a half bed + folding bed, jump onto the rookery from the front door, there is a toilet, no shower, in short, razvodilovo. We stay at the station. We go out to the pier - why are there no boats? According to our concepts, the sea does not worry much, we look with sadness at Boracay - it is 2 km opposite! If it were not for the luggage - you can swim: The weather changes every second.
The sun had just shone through, then the wind was knocking down, the palm trees were practically lying, it was raining like a wall! Let's go back to the station! Lord, where did you come, why? 4 flights, two sleepless days! Come third! Why didn't you go to our beloved Koh Samui? We would sit right now, lobster washed down with Singha: The sun went down instantly, the sky switch was turned off: We settle in chairs: No sleep, the weather does not improve, we watch TV - local news shows our typhoon Feria, how they all flooded, how 8 people died, 11 were missing missing, how a tornado overturned a ship with fishermen and other similar uplifting infa: Yes, we have not been in a tropical storm yet! It is useless to ask the locals about anything, they say, tomorrow we will wake up and see the weather. The local tourist information center posted printouts from the Internet with the movement of the typhoon. Today we are in the center, tomorrow Feriya-Feeriya will leave towards Taiwan. May be.
We forget sleep. At 4 am, the fuss begins - we go out to the pier - the sea is calmer, they say there will be boats. Half an hour later, the picture changes again - again wind and rain! An hour later it seemed to calm down, it dawned: They all got up, they said - go to another boat station - from there there will be boats to Boracay. We grab a tricycle - a separate song, a tent for 3-4 people is attached to the moped, a suitcase on the roof of the tent, the design is absolutely strange and unreliable. In general, the Filipinos are surprising - flying in an incomprehensible wind and cloudiness, driving snotty tricycles and, being an island state, being afraid to go out into a slightly rough sea! Boracay is a five-minute sail! We actually swam for 5 minutes! Everyone was forced to put on life jackets!
Finally! BORACAY!!!! ! In short, 3 days in the forest, 2 days in the field, a river, a swamp, a mountain - and we are there. Departing from Domodedovo at 1 am on June 23, we ended up on the coveted island on June 25 at 7 am.
Again a tricycle to La Carmela, at the reception there were explanations about the lack of boats, thank God, the paid day was not lost. Apparently this is common practice. We left our suitcases, had breakfast, went to soak in a brine called Sulu. By the way, we were the only ones swimming in the sea all over White Beach that morning! They looked at us like we were really crazy! Photographed like a landmark! And the excitement is not very strong: We were also once on the stormy Lamai on Koh Samui - only Russians swam, you go by: - < Hello, Russia! > In response, essno, Russian speech. The brine worked - the fatigue was gone, we realized that we were finally on vacation! Look around - dear mother! And this is a top 10 beach in the world? Where is the beach, exactly? A hotel, a three-meter-wide path in front of the hotel, a three-meter strip of palm trees, and then - water, that is, a surf strip: Maybe the tide is so strong? Okay, bullshit, but falling into the sea is close!
After swimming, we went to look for a hotel. I won’t say anything bad about Lacarmela - everything is on tripadvisor, a hotel built in the late 70s, a rattling window, a room in the form of a prison cell with a window glazed with corrugated glass for some reason, in short, it was easier to change one night, it was just easier to book through the Internet and cheaper than it is, and then we were not going to live in it. After an hour-long promenade towards station 1 (there are three so-called boat stations on the island - local landmarks on a five-kilometer beach), you will find what you need in terms of price-quality ratio. Boracay dream beach resort (hotel website http://www. boracaydreamresort. com/ ) is waiting for us tomorrow morning and will be our refuge for the next 9 days / 8 nights. Again in the sea and sleep! We woke up - it was dark, went to look for dinner. We knew in advance from the Internet about the Tilipap market, bought sea food, juice, rum and went to a cafe opposite - everything was quickly prepared for us and we didn’t quickly use it all.
By the way, on the wall of such establishments there is a warning inscription that you can’t bring your own food and drink - bullshit, firstly, they don’t have rum (and they bring ice to it! ), Only beer, and secondly, a salad of tomatoes and avocados under we eat seafood in bowls, but they don’t make salads very well and in general they are not very friendly with vegetables, such as fish, meat, chicken are food, rice is bread, and silage is not about them: We met a wonderful waiter guy named Marlon - respect to him, then we went to him every evening, he helped to choose products (all kinds of fish, shrimps, lobsters, oysters, etc. ) and advised how best to cook them! The establishment is called Plato D*Boracay Resto Paluto Coocing Service. If you are in Boracay - feel free to go there, ask Marlon - he will help in everything! By the way, he was very surprised later when we asked 2 kilos of small shrimp to cook just with salt - they don’t cook so easily - but then there was a real feast with beer on the hotel veranda, just a great lunch!
On the morning of the next day, we realized why we flew to distant lands. Such views simply do not exist, photoshop is resting! We were literally six months ago in the Maldives, but there are different beauties! Complete calm and not a single cloud in the sky! The whitest sand, transparent sea, blue sky, sailboats on the horizon, palm trees above the water. All the problems, worries, anxieties of the previous days were dissolved in this paradise. If they have such weather in the off-season, what then in the season? Vacation has begun! Someone will say why it was necessary to trudge so far for the sake of white sand and blue sea, when there is Turkey, Egypt, etc. The fact is that it is Boracay that provides Maldivian landscapes, Thai party, Asian cheapness and almost European quality of rest in the complex , the absence of fellow tribesmen, the absence of Turkish-Egyptian Arabs negatively disposed towards the Russians.
On the second or third day, I was so lazy that it was impossible to take an extra 100 steps to a shop or a bar. In short, complete relaxation, and we were looking for just such a vacation. Yes, there is nothing to look at except for landscapes in Boracay, but for a mixture of excursions and beach relaxation, please go to Cambodia or Burma. And the weather after the typhoon rewarded us with sunny dry days, it rained at night once before leaving. True, at some point we prayed in vain for clouds and the coolness of the rain, when, despite all the protective creams and swimming in T-shirts, we still burned out. Of course, we didn’t lie stupidly all day on the beach, we even went on a sightseeing boat tour around the island with a stop at other beaches, snorkeling and lunch, but only to make sure that white beach is the best beach on the island, snorkeling is poor in comparison with the Maldives and Egypt, and Marlon's fish is better prepared. Even sellers of pearls and glasses did not strain.
In general, rested in full.
After 9 days, we flew to Manila, walked around the Makati region for half a day. Then for 2 days Bangkok, the Royal Palace was shown to the small ones - it was the first time in Bkk, they wandered around, shopped and on the way back, to Moscow, the Cathars we loved. July 7 at 8 am sat down at Domodedovo. Again covered, now native cold, only +9.
So, some conclusions:
The flight turned out to be long, you can fly directly to Manila by the same Qatar or Emirates, but it is several times more expensive, as well as choosing between Philippine Airlines and the budget Cebu Pacific. We have all tickets for 4 shoulders in each direction cost 7.000 rubles for three.
The hotel in the off-season is easily chosen on the spot, discounts are easily given.
Our triple in the Philippine bamboo-straw style on the second floor of a stone building with air conditioning, refrigerator, TV, amenities, shower, spacious veranda overlooking a rather large garden, American breakfasts, sunbeds, beach towels cost 1300 rubles / day. In short, everything you need for very little money, just spend the night there! The staff is very friendly, rushing (if this concept applies to Filipinos at all) to fulfill the request instantly.
Boracay island is pleasant in every way - white beach (fine sand is cool even in the hottest - amazing! ), sea, sun, palm trees - as ordered, a large number of hotels for every taste, restaurants for every taste, the location of white beach to the west - everyone evening people take pictures of the evening performance, which arranges a trio: the setting sun-sea-sky. There are no souvenirs, there is nothing special to bring, although the impression of the rest is the main souvenir.
In the evening, all hotels and restaurants overlooking the beach arrange a dinner buffet from 200 pesos / person.
A little about prices: at the D * Tilipapa market (in the evening, in the afternoon - more expensive) redsnapper 180 pesos / kg, blue marlin 250 pesos / kg, green lobsters 700 pesos / kg, king prawns 350 pesos / kg, small 200 pesos / kg, crabs 350 pesos / kg, oysters 25peso/kg, mango 50peso/kg, pineapple 30peso/piece, tomatoes 50peso/kg, avocado 40peso/kg, water 35peso/1.5l, juice 95peso/l Cypriot, South Africa, Spanish, etc. , beer San Miguel 32pesos/0.33l, excellent five-year-old rum 23pesos/250ml, chic twelve-year-old rum 140pesos/0.7l - I don’t know how I didn’t get drunk with such alcohol prices. Skewers 10 pesos on the street, grilled chicken 150 pesos / pc, in the restaurant check from 120 pesos / person. Tricycle 30-50 pesos to almost any part of the island (for three), sightseeing tour of the island $50 boat, food not included; cooking purchased food in a cafe 100-150 pesos / kg.
The rate is 1 peso = 0.65 rubles, they changed dollars at the airport at the rate of $ 1 = 48 pesos.
We had a great rest, although we didn’t visit Busuang, Bohol, El Nido, we didn’t see tarsiers, we ran around Manila, only in one area, but this time we didn’t have a goal to go around other islands. Next time maybe.