Montenegro. Deep into the country ... Or "A hundred miles of a mad dog is not a detour"
Preparing for a trip to Montenegro, I came across incredibly beautiful photos taken in the Durmitor National Park. And that's it - tryndets, I disappeared, and I need to go there...
We went to the Durmitor National Park with an overnight stay. The route was planned intentionally through Podgorica, although there is a shorter way to look at the capital and see the country.
Next, the bridge of Dzhurdzhevich and Zabljak, where we examine the Black Lake, we spend the night. The next day, a trip along Durmitor to Piva Lake, then through Pluzine, past Niksic to his village Bijela.
But, my husband had to make adjustments to my calculated route. He wanted, you see (as a lover of delicious food), to drive through the village of Negushi, which is famous for the fact that people still make prshut (a traditional Montenegrin dish - dried or smoked pork ham) according to old recipes, and there already through Cetinje to Podgorica , everything is nearby. I didn’t really plan to go to these two places, so, according to the residual principle, if there is a free day left, then we’ll go. Therefore, nothing has been studied in detail. Well, since it’s nearby, then let’s go... Well, well, this “nearby” dragged on for half a day. Looking ahead, I will say that it was not worth doing this, indeed, it was necessary to allocate a separate day for this trip. I can’t say what I didn’t like, just rides along the famous serpentine to Njegushy are worth something,
photo from the Internet
It just didn't go according to plan, and what was originally wanted was not examined and studied. Although, this is also not a big problem, because there will be more trips to Montenegro)))
After Tivat, we changed the route in the navigator, and he took us along the shortest path along narrow paths higher and higher through the villages of Kavach and Trinity, in which the road was no longer paved.
It was probably possible to turn around, but it was very scary, besides, the taxi passed somewhere in front of us, which means that there is a way. In short, it was terrible! When the navigator was favored by non-literary language, he corrected himself and quickly brought R-1 (the same serpentine) to a decent track. Which, although it was more decent, also made me go crazy, especially when you come across oncoming trucks or, even worse, tour buses. The road for inexperienced “miners” drivers is difficult, but it brings great pleasure from what they see. We stopped several times, you can’t just drive by and not capture this beauty
Left - Tivat, right - Kotor
Tivat Bay, Airport
We got to Njegushy around 10 am. No one, absolutely no one, no tourists (at that time we were the only ones in sight), no locals.
It turns out that the locals have just begun to open their shops, lay out prosciutto, cheese, and honey. Somehow, not very active for a tourist place, they invited me to try it, but we got excited, decently tried it in several places and even bought a little bit for lunch. Well, what can I say, well, pork, well, smoked, well, oversalted, they did not feel the difference between a shop ham and a village one. And they didn’t understand the enthusiasm for the prosciutto at all, probably they didn’t grow up. Perhaps, if we didn’t have a baggage-free fare for the plane, then the husband would have been seduced into buying a whole leg, exclusively for gift purposes
The village of Njegusi is also the family nest of the dynasty of the rulers of Montenegro, Njegosh. There is a house-museum, but we had a completely non-museum mood, and we went further.
We did not listen to the local old man, he recommended to go back a little and drive to Cetinje through Lovcen, because. Serious renovations are underway. Come on, why is it so serious... But it turned out that almost the entire segment of Negushi-Cetinje is a continuous construction site (expansion and laying of new asphalt). As a result, we got to Cetinje already pretty exhausted, dirty. My husband almost had a “mycardial infarction” when he saw the stripes on the sides of the car, as if scratched and widened. And this is just road dust stuck in such a funny way : ))
The result of the laws of aerodynamics unknown to us : ))
We walked around the town a little without visiting local museums, stretched our legs. Cetinje was remembered for an incredible number of cars, just every free space between the trees, a car is occupied on the sidewalk. Well, there were, of course, more tourists here than in Negushi.
Cetinsky Monastery
After a family council, it was decided to drive through Podgorica without stopping, to look at the city, so to speak, from the car window. So they did. From the window we saw a neat, small modern town, drove along the Millennium Bridge and further north.
photo from the Internet
The road along the Moraca River, and then along the Tara River, is very picturesque. In such places you need to be a passenger: you are driven, you stare around, admire the beauties and, especially insolent, drink a cold beer. So if it is possible to push the steering wheel to your companion (well, in a pinch, to your companion), then I recommend doing this, otherwise all the beauties will fly past you. We proceeded with only one stop for a snack to the Dzhurdzhevich bridge, because. we were in a hurry, I wanted to get to the lodging for the night before dark (and I also planned to take a walk near the Black Lake, which, obviously, we don’t have time to do today), there is not a single photo from this path.
The Dzhurdzhevich Bridge is a really beautiful building, very photogenic.
And for its time, probably unique. It’s worth looking at it, but not on purpose to go, but as part of a trip as an accompanying object, after reading about the history of this engineering structure. Then it will be more interesting (with meaning) to look at it: built in 1940, blown up by Yugoslav partisans in 1942, but in such a way that after the war it was restored quite quickly (this is brief). And by the way, why is it named after Dzhurdzhevich? I was sure that this was the architect, it turns out that this is the name of the peasant whose farm was located closest to the construction site of the bridge.
Well, and views, but what about without them in Montenegro. In the second photo, a “flying” person was caught in the frame. The price of this pleasure is from 10 euros, I have not studied it in detail, because my body and mind refuse to understand such entertainment...
We got to Zabljak already at sunset.
It became noticeably cooler, and in general, the air temperature in Zabljak is 10 degrees lower than on the coast, I had to change shorts for jeans and put on light jackets, which, moreover, helped not to become a delicious dinner for local mosquitoes.
I booked the room in advance back in Moscow. The choice is huge, but I had to choose a little, so that it would not be very expensive and with its own bathroom. As a result, I booked a room for 20 euros in Apartments and Rooms Taverna 3 *. In general, quite an acceptable option for 1-2 nights. Well, old, well, shabby, but working and available. And even the Wi-Fi password was attached on a piece of paper. Of the oddities, perhaps, this is one outlet in the room and four! in the bathroom. So my phone spent the night in the bathroom : ))
As for the location of apartments and hotels, if any of the readers gather in Zabljak, the vast majority are located, as they say, well, not far from the center (unless they manage to choose a house in the fields), because. the village itself is very compact, one central street with cafes and shops, which leads straight to the Black Lake. The center of the city is the crossroads where the Voli supermarket is located. In the evening in the village, or rather on this central street, it is very crowded and noisy. And then at some point, once - and silence.
In the morning of the next day, we headed to the obligatory point of visit - the Black Lake. We didn’t go from the parking lot like all tourists, but went up a little, my husband urgently needed to look at the houses with a sign in Russian “For Sale”, they looked clearly unpresentable, some abandoned ones, apparently looking for their owners for a long time. Then we went down somewhere through the forest, had breakfast on some stump, and here it is - the lake
Well, since it's on the lake, you should take a dip. I’m not ready for such feats, but my husband took a chance, and my husband took a chance, then only after a couple more daredevils were found who ran in and... quickly ran out : ) After talking with them in a mixture of Russian and English with the addition of Serbian words, seasoned with gestures, the husband received assurances that everything was just "gud". Why just sit on the shore like that, that we haven’t seen the lakes? But they didn’t swim in the mountains - yes))
The bottom is rocky, covered with a thin layer of silt, due to which the water becomes cloudy at the entrance. Literally a few meters from the shore is shallow, and then sharply deep. Well, the water is, to put it mildly, refreshing.
We didn't do the lap of honor around the lake and headed to the parking lot. By this time (it was about the eleventh hour) people were already going to the lake in a continuous stream, what kind of unity with nature is there with so many people willing. . . Just approaching the parking lot, it dawned on me that the entrance, it seems, was paid (3 euros), and we passed without paying. Honestly, we didn't do it on purpose, it happened : )
Because I didn’t plan to completely go around Durmitor (brute force),
set the route in the navigator along the northern part to the river. Beer. When reading the reviews, it seemed to me that we are more picturesque. But our friend and comrade - the navigator - stubbornly led to some goat paths, along which the husband categorically refused to go, then led to some kind of fences, then squeaked that turn right here, and here is a ditch. They themselves, too, did not figure out which of the many paths to turn onto. So I had to change direction to the south.
The mountain path is not the easiest for us, the inhabitants of the plains.
And what a beauty, what beauty is around! If I wasn’t lazy, I would probably stop every hundred meters for a photo shoot.
Sheep, which can be easily confused with stones, only then you realize that the stones are moving and even bleating
Cows that stubbornly do not let cars pass, and even strive to butt. At some point, when a traffic jam had already formed, I had to team up with the guys from other cars (together it’s not so scary) and “hit” the cows a bit - send them in the right direction, hoping that they would not be accused of stealing these cows : )) < img src="/newimg/3/800x600/00/01/86/39/1863972.jpg" />
In these seemingly deserted places, even sports grounds are found. But, partially destroyed, possibly by cows : )
So, opening our mouths, we got to Lake Piva. So the mouths remained open : ))) Beauty on beauty. p>
But before going down to it, I also had to overcome a very pretty serpentine, through many small tunnels, and the tunnel is just a bend in the road.
Unusually, conflicting sensations: it seems like it’s not so scary anymore (albeit small, but there is experience), and, at the same time, what’s there in the tunnel around the bend?
And this is a photo of some bearded years for greater clarity (I stole from one story, but with the knowledge of the author). Now everything is already overgrown, and, standing by the bridge, this serpentine is not visible, except sometimes cars glisten in the sun /1864017.jpg" />
We stopped in Pluzhina to rest and swim (you should also check in one more lake). We asked the locals where the beach was. Everyone somewhere there (toward the water) mohaled with his hand. Having strayed a little between buildings and vegetable gardens, we got to the beach
Because it was already hot, even I dared to take a dip. With such heat, it's just wonderful - the water is not hot, and not even warm, after a while it's awesome... The bottom is stones
Pluzine is a small town, most of the inhabitants work at the Pivska HPP.
It does not create the impression of a tourist at all. But, nevertheless, there are a huge number of campsites and apartments in the area. Water walks along the reservoir are organized. They themselves did not take advantage of this, judging by the stories of others, the beauty is incredible. Until the Pivskaya hydroelectric power station itself, as a result of the construction of which this most picturesque lake was formed on the river. Beer, we decided not to go. Not all at once)) And already without stopping we reached our village Biela. The road is excellent, without any surprises. Involuntarily, the pedal is pressed harder, and it is completely incomprehensible why there are signs with speed limits, but in our brain: 50 times, then maybe 70... But a couple of times there were policemen. We must pay tribute to the local automobile fraternity, all oncoming drivers warned.
Durmitor National Park - perhaps this is the most vivid impression of the whole trip to Montenegro! In translation, Durmitor means sleeping, immersed in eternal sleep. Indeed, everything there is somehow not real, calm, majestic... It is addictive... And if there is an opportunity, then you definitely need to go, and it’s better for 2-3 days, so that the trip turns out, as they say, “with feeling, with plainly, with the arrangement.
