Lebanon
Such rains probably come only in the jungle, but it was Beirut. December 2009
The gutter cover swayed merrily on the water column, which shot out of the gutter system, somewhere into the sky. The lid "played" rainbow-like above the ground at forty, fifty centimeters. It was a lot of fun... Probably for this I went to Lebanon. Emotions and new experiences, that's the purpose of the trip.
Moscow season autumn-winter 2009 zadolbala its traffic jams and I decided to pause on this state. Gotta go somewhere. But where??? ? And then on the radio "Silver Rain" in an optimistic voice, some cheerful person talks about Lebanon... Extremely. Interesting. Beautiful.
All is decided. I'm going there. Moreover, being a pioneer, and watching TV in between lessons and walking on the street, I saw the program “International Panorama”, which always began with a report about the war in Bierut. As I remember now. -"our special correspondent in Beirut". . .
An hour on the Internet gave me an idea that it’s not so bad now there... In short, everything, it’s decided to go there...
Two calls and fellow travelers were found... One is somehow sad to go... Especially into the unknown.
Tip: If you want extreme sports, you should go to Lebanon.
If you are afraid of extreme sports, you are again in Lebanon.
If you want emotions, go there.
Lebanon is a very interesting and beautiful country, with an oriental mystery and interesting sights. Lebanon is a country of strong people who, after many years of war, were able to find the strength to restore it in a short period of time.
So. I bought tickets for an Aeroflot flight, Moscow-Beirut-Moscow. I bought it in November for 12-something thousand. . . But closer to the flight I found out about the action of our "winged" company, according to which tickets to Beirut were distributed almost for nothing, something around 7 thousand in both tails.
OK. I didn’t change... It’s not for nothing that I stood in line at Frunzenskaya....
You can go to Lebanon on your own, without any agencies. It will be cheaper and more interesting. The main thing is to find a person in Beirut who will meet and be your guide, driver and tour guide. We were lucky, we found one there. . . But more on that later.
The question of where to live. . . Booking. com easily answered this question. The choice of hotels is large, from 6 star hotels with a budget in Moldova per night, to very budget ones. We stopped at the Plaza Hotel in Hamra (Beirut's shopping district). The hotel is 3-4 stars, but with very comfortable mattresses, blankets and pillows. Nothing more is needed for the vagrants in Lebanon who came to the hotel just to gain strength before the next throw. Everything is as always, the Internet, a credit card, a reservation, confirmation and we are calm... they will let us through at the border, since we are not extremists and we have a place to live.
I understand that if there is a place to live in Lebanon, then you are a tourist.
There was excitement, of course, but it somehow subsided when in the departure zone we saw a group of children from Russia flying to the same place where we were. They were musicians, maybe a choir. . A good signal that everything is not so scary there.
Departure. New plane. 4 hours and we are at the Rafik Hariri airport. 2am. A deserted European airport greeted us with friendly customs officers and the military. A minimum of formalities, no queues, no visas. Welcome and you are in Beirut.
Visas are a different story. In MOSCOW they cost 35 USD, at the Beirut airport like 17 USD, but they force you to buy visas, according to a principle that I don’t understand. Some are asked to buy, some are not. We were not personally asked.
Duty free at the exit, good wine and some chocolate - that's the night meal.
The variety of Arab taxi drivers was impressive. The fare is from 100 USD.... But the Internet suggested that the maximum from the airport to the center is -20 USD. cities. The show, I can say, is not for the faint-hearted . . Everything seems to be in order with my car psyche, but at 140 I buckled up to Arabic music... Red light! We are flying through the intersection, to the question "Stop, Red light". . the answer is "No problem". . After 3 traffic lights that we flew over. . . fear turned into horror. . . But everything is ok, and we are on Hamra. 10 minutes check-in at Hotel Plaza and hello bed. The beds must be noted excellent. A sweet five-hour sleep put us on our feet.
The first day in Beirut started at 8 o'clock. Let's go look for where to have dinner. . . Moved towards the sea. 10 minutes and here it is Mediterranean darling. The first photo, and then a cry . . "Stop, no photo" . . And for what? Just because I wanted to photograph the ferris wheel against the backdrop of the sea.
Turns out! Taking photographs of people and military installations is prohibited. But military facilities mean all vital infrastructure facilities. This needs to be remembered, but there is nothing wrong with that.
In general, we returned to Hamra, went to an American diner and had breakfast...
Regarding cafes. There are no problems with them in Beruta. All international chains are represented, even more than in Moscow. . . They have Burger King. The only thing you need to know is that cafes start working from 1130. Previously, you can only eat at the hotel.
And so... thought. ) How to proceed. We had a clear plan and it had to be implemented. . First, we are looking for a taxi driver. . Second, we go according to the trip plan. Compiled by me earlier. I must say the search for a driver was a little worried. With a driver like we were driving from the airport, I won't be able to last more than 1 day.
Here!!! ! the heavens parted and our guardian angel taxi driver, guide and guide named LABIB was sent to us! I would like to tell you more about him, because if you want to go to Lebanon, then you don’t need to spend money on agencies, you don’t need to buy excursions, you just need to call Labib. If you know at least a little English, Labib will show (for reasonable money) the best sights of Lebanon, take you and take you to the place.
Labib is an elderly man of 68 who has been driving for 50 years. He survived all the wars, as can be seen from the sad eyes and folds on his face, which were formed under the yoke of sadness. For 50 years, he learned English in the "people", so it is easier to understand him than a native speaker. After the Arab taxi driver who drove us from the airport, Labib seemed like a calm, sober professional who drove us for 4 days all over Lebanon, not exceeding 80 km hour. In general, if it were not for him, I would never have a sense of calm in Lebanon. And of course, without him, we didn’t learn about delicious goat cheese with honey wrapped in pita bread, didn’t drink wine in Ksar, didn’t take pictures where they didn’t give us, and I couldn’t buy my son fresh exotic fruits for my son. Of course, he won't read it, but still, Labib, Thank you very much!!! ! If you are going to Lebanon and looking for a guide, . He will meet and be your guide in Lebanon in his Mercedes.
Let's go further. . .
First day! The sun! 25 degrees! We went to Jounieh, a city not far from Beirut... In general, everything is not far there, compared to Moscow
The first attraction is the Jjetta Grotto cave. It is difficult to convey emotions, I will say one thing, after meeting and walking in it, everything in Lebanon looked somehow pale. I am very calm about caves, and have been to them many times, but this is really a wonder of the world. For her sake, it's only worth flying to Lebanon for a couple of days. Photos, videos are prohibited. Everything is rented to a left-luggage office. . . But be sure to visit the site to have an idea of what I admire here. Although I can see that neither photos nor videos convey the atmosphere and spirit of nailing there. After 30 minutes, I felt like I was on mars or a Star Wars set. We were in the upper cave, they walk there with their feet. Boats swim in the lower cave, but in winter it is closed due to the high water that comes from the mountains. We were lucky, we saw a piece of the interior of the lower cave. This is something not to be forgotten.
Jetta Grotto - these are vaults up to 50 - 70 meters, length (I can lie) 300 -500 meters... This is a must see.
After lunch we drove to Jounieh. There, in the city center, we boarded a funicular that took us to the Holy Virgin Mary, a statue that rises on a mountain and is surrounded by the church of St. Nicholas, a museum and an observation deck, a chapel and other interesting buildings.
In Brazil, on Turtle Mountain, there is a statue of Jesus. In Lebanon, the Virgin Mary. I think they even look at each other. .
Yes, I almost forgot . . When moving from Jeitta to the monument of St. Mary, we stopped at the dog river. A place with a difficult terrain, which was the main difficulty in the transition of the troops of all historical conquerors. Starting with the Macedonian, ending with the German troops.
"Bad place for the passage of the army" - I'll tell you. Therefore, everyone who crossed it left memorial plaques on the rocks (for example, Napoleon)
By the time we got down on the funicular, it was getting dark. And the evening trip, further, to Byblos was simply lyrical. The ancient city with architecture from the fairy tale about Aladdin met us with darkness, the sound of the sea, and trading shops.
We are tired. . . It's time to go home. . Labib took us to a restaurant in the center of Beirut.
Wine, Mich grill, mize and we are in the hotel. . .
Here they are, my favorite beds and blankets.
Second day.
Was filled to the fullest. We told our plan to Labib, he corrected it a little, and we rushed to the center of Lebanon.
First stop is Kfarhim cave. After Jetta Grotto there is no enthusiasm, but you can take pictures in it. Personal guide, 60 minutes, 40 photos. Let's go further.
The next place is Musa Palace. Interesting place. One rich Lebanese built a museum palace, where the life of the Lebanese (in motion) is shown with dolls, collections of weapons of all times are collected and much more. Worth to visit.
The next stop was Beit Eddine Palace. The palace is nothing special, for me. But connoisseurs of oriental ascetic architecture will be interested.
Let's go further . . The first acquaintance with real cedars. It was a discovery for me that cedars grow only there. In our country and around the world it is a cedar-like pine. Here's a squiggle for you.
We are heading for the Beaka Valley.
30 minutes and here it is. . . In the fog and surrounded by mountains with snow tops.
Another stop and a sea of impressions is the Ksara winery. Founded in 1854 by the French. Vineyards immediately grow in the valley.
Received very warmly. They gave us a free tour, showed a film, we tasted wine and we were led through the cellars (caves) of the storage. Nice people are working. Girls!!!
Yes!! ! I forgot the main thing! I traveled a lot around the world, and lived in Bashkiria, Tatarstan. But I can say with full confidence in Lebanon one of the most beautiful girls. Modern Lebanese is what. Yes, even Shia and Sunni girls in their hijabs are charming. But as you know, the country is Muslim, so you can only swallow drool and the meek
stare at them.
And so to the plant... Everything is super... We go to the store. For sale Chateau Xsara 2004 and 2005. It was sunny in 2005, we are staring at it. Wine for everyone. Try.
Then we were waiting for the extreme point of the second day - the city of Bialbek. As it was said on the Internet - there are two attractions - the city of the Sun and Hezbala ("the political party of Lebanon"). I must say right away that you will not see Hezbollah there... Except for T-shirts, flags and other souvenirs with their symbols. True, a man caught me at the entrance to the city of the Sun, asked where I was from, and when I found out that I was from Russia, he said for a long time that Hezbollah and Russia were friends and we were the best... In general, Russians are treated well there. Yes, and so do we. Lovely and beautiful people.
The City of the Sun is a must see. . . It was built before Christ. How it was built is not clear. Everyone says aliens. Since the stones are 1500 tons. And it's hard to pick them up even now. Pyramids and those it is clear how they did (approximately), but what was built in the city of the Sun, Admires. Although the city is cool. More precisely, the ruins of the city.
There were three temples - Venus, Jupiter and Bacchus. Oddly enough, after all the transition from Muslims to Christians and vice versa, as well as after earthquakes, only the temple, built in honor of the god of wine Bacchus, remained on its “legs”. The temple of Vinera was completely destroyed, only grandiose columns remained from Jupiter, which stretched towards the Sun.
The weather deteriorated, a cold wind began to blow from the mountains. The place was terrible, because there was no one except us on these hectares of devastation, and the myth of Hezbollah was flying around.
Everyone looked, took pictures and now back to my favorite bed. )). But first, we walked along the Beirut embankment, ate at a restaurant on the seashore. For reference, food prices are the same as in Moscow, even a little cheaper. Dinner with wine cost 30-40 dollars.
The third day was tough. Plans. . . Cedars (Cedars) and Trippoli - the second largest city of Lebanon in the north of the country.
In the evening it began to rain, I haven’t heard such thunder for a long time, the density of the rain is very high... I went out into the street, go, squeeze your shorts...
In the morning we had breakfast in the hotels, the rain did not stop. Labib has arrived. While getting into the car . . "Oh, where are my spare underpants" - I thought.
Labib announced the most unpleasant news: "Cedars and Tripoli are canceled today. " It’s raining here, but going to Cedars through the mountains, there is 1 meter of snow, the road is ice, cliffs... Tripoli is dangerous, because of the water, the sewer covers hang 50 cm and you can collect them all on the hood... And to Tripoli there will be 1000 such wells... It's a joke, of course, but we didn't go to Tripoli, since visibility is zero, traffic jams and pipets. As I wrote at the beginning, I have not seen such rains for a long time.
I want to draw your attention to the fact that we didn’t just go to Cedars, we wanted to ski from the Lebanese mountains. Therefore, psychologically, I was ready for this day only for this. Mountains, snow, rides.
Labaib, having felt me for 2 days, understood and said - “We are going to Faraya”. Faraya is not either mountains, or a ski resort, or just a town... In general, a point where sheikhs from all over the Middle East work out the technique of skiing. And so. . . Forward!
Ate barely got out of Beirut and began to climb the mountains. On the way, so much water flowed from the top that after 30 minutes I did not understand whether we were driving a car or a boat. An hour passed, the water began to change its physical properties... first slurry, then snow with rain and all stop !! ! Our Mercedes went nuts from such impudence (seeing snow), not reaching the top of the mountain for 30 minutes, stood captivated by the snow-wet cobwebs. I got up and froze. Completely! . You can write for a long time how we got out, how we pushed, how we got wet after 3 seconds, due to rain with snow and a strong wind, how then an Arab pushed us... But the soldiers of the Lebanese army saved us, who drove past in their armored car. And without a cable, with their strong bodies they turned the idle heavy Mercedes down and sent it from the mountain to warm lands, from where it came from. I’ll tell you one thing, after a little interrogation of me, an officer of the Lebanese army told me (if translated) “What the hell are we from Russia going to this mountain in this weather? We have snow at least in one place. Nice man!! ! Thank you by the way!!!
Labib and my friends said that they had enough of all this and they would not go further. But the words of the officer once again cheered me up, and I decided to complete what had been planned.
Labib descended from the mountains. I took a snow taxi (there is one and all normal people use it).
I went to the store, rented warm and dry clothes and rushed on the studded Legace to Mount Faraya, for impressions. What was my surprise when there was no one on the mountain except for a hurricane with snow and two Arabs on the Hammer. Everything was closed. The Arabs planted their iron horse up to the "chest" in the snow and tested the tactics and technical characteristics of the American armored car. “What to do then? ”I said to my taxi driver, who didn’t even understand my broken English. Apparently, seeing my sad eyes, one escaped from him - “Ski Do? ”. “Is there? ” I asked happily. And after 10 minutes I was driving out from under a large snowdrift, where the snowmobile base was located, with an instructor on a yellow snowy Ski Do. It was something!! ! A 40 minute snowmobile ride on one of Lebanon's highest snow points, when it's +19 below, is an unforgettable experience.
A beautiful city, especially the view from the fish bay. Beautiful architecture. Even, it is difficult to say what style it refers to. It just needs to be seen. . .
They decided not to go to Tire, although the rain had subsided. As we were told, Tire is not much different from what we have already seen. Although it still torments me that I did not visit the ancient city that I remember from the time of school history.
We're going to the airport. There are still 6 hours before departure. There is nothing to do at the airport, except how to look at people of different religions and denominations, who warmly say goodbye and meet their relatives and friends. Once again I was convinced that the Lebanese are a very beautiful and sincere people.
As always, Aeroflot delayed the flight. We started going crazy until we got to Duty Free. Then let go, especially in Beirut it is not expensive, with a large selection of oriental sweets, electronics, and of course perfumes and alcohol. . .
All cheers! Boarded the plane. We're flying. . . And here you are. . . I thought that it was all over. . Al no. Lebanon has prepared a last surprise for us....
Have you ever been on a plane in which 10 people decided to “blow off”?
I think many who flew to Thailand, Boli or GOA saw such a show.
It was the same here, only it was not drunk Russian tourists with a hangover who fought between the first and second bottles of whiskey, but religious Lebanese. One made a remark to the other, the stewardess missed him, and it started to get wet. A short. It lasted a minute. But everyone left impressions. . If, in fairness, if the stewardess had reacted, the problem could have been solved. But the sleepy line-up (it was already 4 am, the return flight) of flight attendants got their way. They have a hard job, you understand only in such moments. But the feeling of homeland came. This skirmish, like a pressure chamber, switched consciousness from the impressions of Lebanon to the realities of Russia.
That's all. The plane touched down. Sheremetyevo. The temperature is minus 26 degrees.
Hello, tired of New Year's Eve, Moscow.
Yes... here's another... in the end . .
They have two features! I'm talking about Lebanon. )
All drivers honk every minute and everywhere. This, as it turned out, is a feature of driving. This is instead of traffic lights, which slipped through the Arab, carrying us from the airport.
Whoever honked first has the priority of the passage.
But it really bothered me, as a Moscow driver.
We signal when everyone . . after that they will only shoot from the WASP . . )
Get used for 4 days is not realistic.
Everyone smokes. But they don't just smoke, they smoke everywhere: in the store, in line, in the museum, at the airport, in the car. Everyone smokes, even children.
This is a feature that strained and which distinguishes the development of the country and the mentality of its people. What can I say. . .
-: “Lebanon thanks for the experience, and STOP SMOKING!!! ! We haven’t seen Cedars and Tyr. ”
January 2.2010