Bongiorno Italy! Rome. Figure three. "Bohemian Romantic" (final)
Shape three. "Bohemian - romantic" (final)
Today we will walk on the right bank of the Tiber, along one of the most unusual old quarters - bohemian Trastevere. It really does not look like ordinary Roman quarters, there is no rush and fuss here, and time passes more slowly, and the colors are spilled in completely different proportions. Here the squares are small, and the streets are narrow, there are many small restaurants everywhere, and this leisurely pace of life creates a romantic mood.
And here you can also see ordinary people - the inhabitants of Rome, and observe their life and mood, perhaps even chat.
This morning we even toured the hotel, intrigued by the name "Chinichita". It turns out that there used to be a film studio of the same name here, which is why the hotel was called that. There are even some decorations and props left in the lobby.
From the hotel we went to the Castel Sant'Angelo to cross a very beautiful bridge to the opposite bank of Rome and once again admire the Castle. Well, here are the same Americans again in the frame, covering half of the lens with their impressive forms.
We cross the Tiber and head to the Trastevere quarter. This wall closes the Gianicolo Hill, the highest of all the hills of Rome, which offers panoramic views of the Eternal City. Gianicolo Hill (Janiculus) is named after the god Janus and the king of Lazio, who lived on this site.
Admiring the Tiber.
And here we see such a picture under the bridges - these are local homeless people or gypsies.
Desolate or completely unpopulated streets, no crowds, fuss, quiet, calm.
People sit down at tables near numerous cafes, ordering coffee or Aperol. This drink is drunk everywhere here, from morning to evening. We also kept up with the Romans and savored aperol with ice. Although the drink is alcoholic, it is very refreshing.
I recommend having lunch in this trattoria, the prices here are average, but everything is very tasty and truly Italian.
And for dessert, we recommend Grom ice cream. I put this network in 1st place.
Savoring ice cream, we pass under the balcony of Raphael's beloved, falling into a romantic mood.
And we go to Piazza Della Scala. On the square there is an interesting church - Santa Maria della Scala.
According to legend, a mother prayed here in front of the icon of the Virgin, asking for healing for her child. And a miracle happened - the child recovered. The news of this event spread very quickly around the district, and in honor of the Mother of God, it was decided to build a temple on this site. So, in the 16th century, the church of Santa Maria della Scala appeared.
However, one of the oldest churches in Rome is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere located here.
It was built in the 3rd century, only the bell tower was added later. The faç ade depicts Saint Mary surrounded by ten virgins. And then they added a portico with sculptures of energetically gesticulating saints located on it.
The most interesting, as we understand it, is inside.
Very interesting gilded mosaics showing the main events of the life of St. Mary: the Annunciation, the Birth of Christ, the Adoration of the Magi, the Dedication of the Child in the temple and the Assumption.
We raise our heads - and again the incredible beauty of the ceiling.
I sit down on a bench and sit for a long time, resting in silence and enjoying the coolness of the church walls.
The husband went to look for the meeting place appointed by his daughter. She and her friend flew to Rome for 3 days, they have their own program, but we combined it a bit with ours. By the way, they rented apartments in a campsite, not far from Termini, quite a decent campsite, rooms with all amenities and only 35 euros per day for two, however, without breakfast.
On the ancient road Via Aurelia we reach the gates of Porta San Pancrazio
Here on Trastevere is one of the largest parks in Rome. We go for a walk in the park in search of Villa Doria Pamphilj. Located right in the park, here it seemed to us from afar.
Once the villa belonged to the Pamphili family, but after the cessation of the family in the 18th century, it became the property of Andrea Doria IV, and since then it has had a double name.
The main building is the Villa Vecchia, which was purchased by Pamfilio Pamphili in the early 17th century.
When Cardinal Giambatista Pamphili was elected Pope under the name Innocent X, he needed to give more chic to the family property, and he decided to create a park ensemble.
When Pamphili Giovanni died without heirs, serious passions flared up over who would get the estate after all. The controversy was ended by Pope Clement XIII, who passed the entire legacy of Pamphili to Andrea Doria, since his father was married to Anna Pamphili. Is it that simple?!
In the 18th century, new fountains were built in the garden.
And the old flower beds were converted into carpet flower beds.
In 1957, Villa Doria Pamphilj was purchased by the Italian government and soon turned into a museum displaying ancient artifacts and sculptures. Around the villa there is a park with many walking paths.
We return from the park and climb Gianicolo Hill. This is how the city looks from the hill.
And this is a monument to the Italian poet Giuseppe Gioachino Belli, not very well known to us, whose sonnets shocked Gogol at one time.
I also really love his sonnets. Can I quote my favorite to you, since our day is so romantic today?
"Beauty"
Well, buddy, what can compare with beauty?
Wealth does not bring beauty,
And through beauty, on the contrary,
To wealth, the right move may open.
What a church, what a cow, what a girl -
If you're not pretty, it doesn't count.
But how! After all, it is not in vain that the Lord is the same
I thought of being born from a beauty!
All doors to beauty are open, Everyone is wagging their tails in front of her,
And what's wrong - we must forgive her.
What is there to say! Adopt kittens:
The beautiful ones, as you know, are left behind
And they drown the ugly - they don’t want to.
What a deep meaning, right? For me, this is an amazing poet.
Slowly we walk along the Tiber to the beautiful island of Tiberina. This is such an island of land in the shape of a boat, connected on both sides by two bridges with the city.
By the way, this is the only island along the entire river, and the bridges have been standing since antiquity.
How I like these houses, decorated with flower beds on balconies and open terraces.
Now we are heading back to the center of Rome to see another of the most beautiful squares in the city - Piazza Venezia. But on the way, almost in the center of the city, we find such ruins, and what do you think is located here? Imagine a cat shelter!
I am fascinated by such deeds. I have already seen a similar shelter in Milan in the historic Sforza Castle, only there it was closed by a wall and the cats could not escape of their own free will. Here the space is open, but the cats do not run away, and why would they run away from a five-star hotel?
Well, here it is - Piazza Venezia and Vittoriano.
The square itself, in principle, is unremarkable, if not for the magnificent architectural monument - Vittoriano, built in honor of the first king of united Italy, Vittorio Emmanuele II, and attracting all the views of tourists.
In the center is a statue of Victor Emmanuel on a horse, called the Altar of the Fatherland.
Vittoriano is a whole complex with many viewing platforms and museums. The observation decks offer magnificent views of the surroundings of Rome.
The monument is located on the Capitoline Hill, one of the smallest hills in Rome, almost in the center of the city.
It was here that the she-wolf lived, who nursed the twins - Romulus and Remus.
Admire Rome from above.
And this is the Capitoline Palace and the Michelangelo Buanaroti Museum.
We walk further around Rome and go to Piazza Colonna. The main attraction of the square is the Column of Marcus Aurelius, towering over the buildings. This is one of several triumphal columns in Rome, built in honor of the Roman emperor Aurelius.
There are a total of 13 Egyptian obelisks in Rome. One of them is located in Piazza del Popolo and is called the Flaminio Obelisk.
This is the very first obelisk that the Romans brought back from conquered Egypt in 10 BC. e. by order of Emperor Octavian Augustus.
On the south side of the square there are two twin churches: Santa Maria di Miracoli and Sata Maria di Montesano, made in the Baroque style.
On the north side of the square stands the Porto del Popolo or Flaminii Gate, through which you will enter the ancient Roman Via Flaminia.
On the east side is the Napoleon Staircase, which connects the square with the Napoleon terrace of the Pincio Hill.
Piazza del Popolo is also called the "people's square", which was laid out in Rome by order of Pope Sixtus V. Three streets diverge from the square - Corso, Ripetta and Babuino, the latter will lead you to the Spanish Steps.
That's it, the circle is closed. My alpha and omega in Rome.
To the question, what to bring from Rome? We brought wine. Very tasty Montapulciano and Montalcino, I recommend it.
Well, and traditional prosecco, lambrusco and martini - for an amateur. I only drink prosecco, martini asti is like a mother, and girls like lambrusco. But the taste and color, as they say...
By the way, one more discovery: in Italy, pretty good beer, they once took it for dinner for a sample and were pleasantly surprised.
This is the Rome we saw in 3 days, which I tried to show you, my dear readers, to share my impressions and the beauty of this magnificent, amazing city.
