Bongiorno Italy! Part 3. The Eternal City of Rome...
Bongiorno Italy! Or the adventures of the restless ones : )
Part 3. The Eternal City of Rome. . .
The theater, as you know, begins with a hanger. Italy, for me, begins with the majestic eternal city of ROMA. . . It was Rome that turned my mind around, this city gave me the opportunity to live in different eras at the same time - in the ancient world, the Middle Ages and the present. . . Until the moment I met this masterpiece, I had colorful images of paved streets saturated with ancient history, the majestic Colosseum, ancient temples, but I could not even imagine that intertwining and merging together, antiquity and modernity would literally blow my mind! Pantheon, Colosseum, Forums - symbols of the power and greatness of Rome for centuries; Vatican - all the riches of the world, art and religion; The basilicas of Rome are the most famous temples of mankind, striking in their luxury and beauty. Just one fact
that there are 976 different parishes in Rome shocked me. No matter which of the residents I asked whether they visited all the temples, I did not hear an affirmative answer from anyone.
Arriving in Rome in the evening, we stayed at the Cinecitta 3* hotel, as always, in the middle of nowhere, in one of the most criminal areas of the city. True, the metro was 5 minutes on foot, which could not but rejoice. The metro in Rome is mega-convenient, signs are everywhere, and if you are not blind, then it is simply impossible to get lost. You can take a map of the metro and central attractions at the reception for free. There was nothing else free in the hotel. Entering the room, we didn’t even immediately understand where we ended up - a hostel, a hospital ward, a hostel - what kind of object is this, more like some kind of hole? We didn't order a cave. There was no talk of any air conditioner, refrigerator and other joys of life. I think,
that excesses ruined the Roman Empire, for example, due to the lack of air conditioning, the windows were closed, so no one heard the barbarians approaching.
Starting to unpack things and after half an hour becoming wet as mice, we ran to the reception. There they tried to explain to the administrator (as it turned out later, it was a "carpinter" - in our opinion, a locksmith) that our room was completely unsuitable for living in such hot Rome. I don't think he understood us very well. It was later that we realized that the Italians only pretend to understand you. Addressing the police on the street “Do you speak English? ”, they will answer you “Yes, yes” and continue to explain to you in Italian. In general, having achieved nothing from the carpinter (part-time administrator), they went home. After spending Bartholomew's night and surviving until 5 am, my husband again made an attempt to establish contact with the administrator.
Seeing his extremely determined expression, I ran after him.
Carpinter apparently also did not really like the belligerent face of my husband, because he quickly ran away somewhere and after about five minutes brought some signora, who turned out to be a manager. Using all the colors and tones of his vocabulary, my husband explained to the Italian signora how to welcome guests. She only nodded in response and repeated "Si, si. " At the end of my faithful speech, we were given two keys to choose from and we went to inspect the fox holes. BUT…! So it turns out that there are not only fox holes, but also lairs for an imposing bear. The room we chose was simply chic (well, compared to the previous one) - spacious, with air conditioning, a large bathroom, there was even a hairdryer (if this device can be called that) and a refrigerator.
That's how my husband's unexpected fury saved our lives for three whole days, I didn't even know about his art of persuasion. The number was changed to us completely free of charge. Inspired by the improvement of living conditions, at 6 o'clock in the morning we ran to move. Nothing should overshadow the meeting with the grandiose city! We buy one-time metro tickets for today for 1.50 euros, since you only need to get to the center, from there I have the entire walking route scheduled until the evening.
Well, welcome to Rome, where, as you know, all roads lead!
Let's start our acquaintance with the city from Plaza de Españ a. Do you see these recognizable steps on which the heroine of the movie "Roman Holiday" Audrey Hepburn enjoyed ice cream? This is the famous Spanish Steps. Go down to the square, the view from below is much more beautiful.
And at the top stands the Church of the Holy Trinity on the Mountains with two symmetrical towers, it is over 500 years old. There is an obelisk in front of the church. In Rome, one can often see obelisks crowned with crosses in the squares. This is supposedly evidence of the continuity of the Ancient pagan and New Christian worlds.
The Barkaccha Fountain was built right at the foot of the stairs. The fountain in the form of a boat was created in memory of an event that happened in 1598, when a severe flood occurred in Rome, and at this very place a boat with people ran aground, which saved the lives of the inhabitants of the city.
Not far from Piazza di Spagna is the most beautiful, but banally the most worn to the holes of tourist consciousness, the fountain of Rome - Trevi Fountain. It is believed that every self-respecting tourist should definitely visit here. Someone for a photo in memory, and someone,
to post a photo on Instagram. Well, what about us? And we are not worse than many : )
The Trevi Fountain is not just a fountain, it is a whole sculptural composition, in the center of which is a chariot led by the king of the seas - Neptune.
If you want to come here again, be sure to throw a coin over your left shoulder, well, everything is as usual, the standard fountain procedure. And it’s not expensive for you, and the city has some kind of income.
The next point of our obligatory plan is the ancient Roman Temple of all Gods - the majestic Pantheon. It is very easy to get to it, you need to face the Trevi Fountain, turn left and go straight without turning anywhere.
Yes, it's impressive from the outside! A pompous, very massive building, erected back in 126 by Emperor Hadrian.
Columns,
weighing 100 tons each, several times higher than human height. Next to him you feel like a midget.
Pay attention to the roof - the climbers have lifted up bags with rose petals, and from above they will drop them into the temple through the hole, because today is Catholic Trinity Day. The petals will, circling smoothly, fall on the parishioners, enveloping them with their velvet and fragrance. The spectacle is amazing!
It's even grander inside! There are no windows in the temple, but there is a hole at the top - the oculus, through which sunlight enters. This creates a special, unique atmosphere.
How could such a giant be built in those ancient times? And it all happened like this.
They poured a huge pile of sand with gold coins and filled this whole mountain with mortar. The solution froze, and the people were allowed to pick up these gold coins. How to pick up? It is necessary to pick it out of concrete with sand, that's how the people liberated the Temple of all Gods.
By the way, the tomb of Rafael Santi and King Vittorio Emmanuel II is located in the Pantheon.
And his son Umberto I.
After going around the majestic Pantheon from the rear, we get to Piazza della Minerva.
An unusual obelisk with an elephant immediately catches the eye in the square. This sculpture is called just that - "Obelisk with an Elephant". It was created by Lorenzo Bernini by order of Pope Alexander VII. The sculpture has its own funny history.
It is located directly opposite the monastery in which Galileo Galilei was judged, and pay attention to where the elephant is located to the customer.
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It was from these doors that Galileo came out after the trial, uttering the sacramental phrase “And yet it is spinning! ". And in recognition of the scientist, the sculpture was installed in this way, and we can observe the cunning look of an elephant.
The image of the elephant appeared in European culture after the campaign of Alexander the Great in India and personified royal power and triumph. The church considers the elephant the personification of divine wisdom. Therefore, the statue is located opposite the Basilica Santa - Maria - Sopra - Minerva.
Almost all churches and basilicas in Rome are completely free to visit, so there are a lot of people everywhere, especially in the morning.
Tip for tourists: visit the temples in the afternoon, we were convinced of this personally by visiting the two most beautiful papal basilicas almost before closing.
Let's move on to Navona Square. Well, such a Rome also has a place to be, you can’t throw words out of a song. Dirty and unsightly. So Rome - like a beautiful woman - will deceive you someday.
On the way, we study local transport.
The rules of driving in Rome are simple: never look back, never look around and, most importantly, never hesitate - just step on the gas and pray. The rules are the same for pedestrians.
And this is a photo from Florence. Granny could not seep through the stream of tourists and cursed terribly.
Wow! Look at what the carabinieri ride, not sickly so-so.
Police officers in Italy are a separate issue altogether. And I finally understood why there are always two of them - one apparently knows how to read, the second - to write.
Let's go to a huge space called piazza Navona.
Piazza Navona is probably the largest square in Rome, since in ancient times there was a stadium here, and now we immediately have a view of the wide expanse.
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There are many sights here - the Palazzo Pamphili, the Church of St. Agnes, and various fountains.
A beautiful snow-white temple - the St. Agnes Church.
Agnessa is a simple girl who stings in Rome in the 3rd century AD.
She converted to Christianity and decided to devote herself entirely to the church. But unfortunately, the local prefect was in love with her, and he did not want to hear about the refusal. However, Agnes did not accept his marriage proposal. The enraged prefect ordered the poor girl to be undressed and thrown naked into a brothel located on the square. But the angels, having descended from heaven, dressed her in white clothes, and since then, Agnes has been under their protection. She was later brutally murdered by soldiers. And in memory of her, the church of St. Agnes was built on the site of the brothel. The church is attached to the Palazzo Pamphili, and in front of the Palazzo is the Fountain of the Four Rivers by Giovanni Bernini. An Egyptian obelisk crowns the fountain. Although this is an imitation, it is an ancient imitation, created back in the time of Domitian.
And on the left is another fountain - Neptune's Fountain.
After admiring the most beautiful (in my opinion) square in Rome, we move on to the ancient castle, called Castle of the Holy Angel.
It smells of antiquity everywhere, I mentally transport myself to the Middle Ages and imagine myself as a signorina (I don’t imagine myself as a signora).
And voila - Castle of the Holy Angel!
The castle looks grandiose and has no less grandiose history.
This is the former tomb of Emperor Adrian Pablius, erected on the banks of the Tiber in the 2nd century. But throughout his long life, he managed to visit both a haven for the Roman emperor, and the residence of the pontiffs, and a dungeon where Galileo Galilei and Count Cagliostro were imprisoned,
and subsequently received the status of a museum and treasury. Castle of the Holy Angel owes its name to the Archangel Michael, who descended from heaven to earth and proclaimed the end of the plague.
The road to the Castle leads us along the Bridge of the Holy Angel, decorated with original statues of angels, each of which personifies the passion of Christ. This bridge over the Tiber is the most beautiful bridge in Rome and connects two parts of the city.
By the 14th century, the Castle turned into a papal residence and was connected to the Vatican with the help of a corridor, so that in case of any danger, the Roman pontiffs could hide within the walls of the Castle. So the Castle also served as a fort.
Pilgrims from all over the world went to the Vatican, and we, following their example, proceeded there as well. In appearance from afar, something unsightly was revealed to us, but everyone knows
that the main treasures of the state are not outside, they are hidden inside numerous museums and the most beautiful cathedral in the world - St. Peter's Cathedral. Therefore, the Vatican, despite its small size, is one of the most powerful and influential states in the world, and also, I think, one of the richest. And it fits in the lens of one camera, such a paradox.
Do you know why there are no orphans in Rome? Because they all have a dad. We happened to get to a big holiday in the Vatican - the celebration of the Holy Trinity. Therefore, we will be reporting from St. Peter's Square.
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We don't get to the museums and the Cathedral today because it's Sunday, but we'll see all this tomorrow with reserved tickets. And today we will see a festive procession of Catholic pilgrims and onlookers like us. The pilgrims came in a variety of ways,
even these exist.
On the way, by the way, we met another pilgrim.
There are an incredible number of people on the square, despite the intense heat, although many people have umbrellas, and as we understand it, not because of the rain, people still crave bread and circuses. First the spectacle.
Well, there is no Pope yet, while the procession is moving, preparations are in full swing.
My husband went to shoot a video, and I'm looking out from behind the crowd trying to make out the national costumes. Oh, the musicians came close to us. Lord, what hot clothes, how they suffer in them, poor fellows.
The husband returned, the spectacle was filmed, now it would be bread. All cafes are packed, it is not clear where there are more people - in the square or in cafeterias.
We just went to a street shop with Italian fast food. We took these panini with prosciutto and mozzarella and some water (bill 11 euros). Panini, by the way, are huge, it was enough for us to have lunch.
No, well, not quite enough, still compote, in the sense of a dessert. We had no problems with dessert in Italy, everything is simple to the point of banality - either ice cream or tiramisu. Both are a win-win option, especially since everything is natural and very tasty. We found a gelateria where they make fruit cold balls right in front of you, and mmm. . . we enjoyed it. My husband took lemon, I tried this for the first time, a very unusual, but interesting taste. I took tiramisu, why bother for a long time.
Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news » Back to news Well, that's what? This building cannot be repaired.
at least shamanize the facade? The road leads to the Vatican, the richest state in the world!
When I was filming the video, my husband took my hat away from me, because the cap, you see, did not protect him from the sun's rays, and he categorically refused to return it to me, despite the fact that those around him looked askance a little.
So, I summarize: today the Vatican did not impress me from the outside, even despite the holiday, I left all in hopes for tomorrow. But in memory of the Vatican, I bought such a statuette made of marble (there was a Made in Italy tag, I don’t know how true this is, maybe the Chinese have already learned how to trim here too).
Looking back at the Vatican from another bridge.
"The easiest way to get to know a city you don't know is to walk around it a lot" (Henry W. Morton, "Rome. Walking in the Eternal City").
Therefore, we walk and observe, and absorb the smells, tastes, mood of the city, its aroma and atmosphere, plunging deeper and deeper into history and modernity.
The Palace of Justiceis very luxurious, but, however, somewhat monumental and ornate. Today the court of cassation is located here. Despite the fact that the building is richly decorated with stucco and magnificent statues, the townspeople do not like it and call it the "Ugly Palace". It seems like a strong pile of decor, that is, there are a lot of decorations on it.
The heat is crazy, and I'm constantly thirsty. In Rome, they are used to this, so there are fountains everywhere, from which you can draw water for free.
Our smaller brothers also have a hard time, they are also tormented by thirst. But the dog does not want to drink from his drinker, he laps straight from the tap.
Well, two more masterpieces are planned for today - two magnificent basilicas - Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano. Since I didn’t get to St. Peter’s Cathedral, then the Basilica is by all means. I’m in a hurry to meet with the spiritual… My husband, having heard the route, somehow wilted and began to trudge, but I hurried him, reminding him that the basilicas are closed for visitors at 6 pm, but this did not upset him very much.
The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggioreis the pilgrimage church of St. Mary, which is one of the four greatest papal basilicas, therefore it is subordinate to the Pope himself. The basilica is ancient, founded in the 5th century under Pope Sixtus III, however,
subsequently rebuilt several times. It is named in honor of Mary, the mother of Jesus, who allegedly appeared to the bishop in a dream and indicated the place where the church should be built.
This is the facade of the church. Above the central portal is a statue of the Virgin Mary with Child, and behind it are four statues of popes.
And this is the opposite facade.
In the center is a semicircular ledge where the altar is located. And two domes rising above the roof crown the chapels of the cathedral.
The interior of the basilica impresses with its luxury and richness. The mosaics above the columns date back to the 5th century, but have survived.
Let's raise our heads and admire the ceiling by Giuliano Sangallo. The wooden panels are covered with gold, which was specially mined in Peru and was donated by the Spaniards to Rome.
And what about a marble floor with an ornament!
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The temple is also interesting for its chapels, which store works of art that tell about the ancient Christian past.
The Sistine Chapel. This chapel of the "Most Blessed Sacrament" was built in the 16th century on behalf of Sixtus V.
The story of the Nativity of Christ is depicted on the walls of the chapel. And in the center of the chapel is an altar decorated with golden angels.
The relics of Pope Pius V and the relics of the five Innocent Infants are also kept here.
And a sculpture of Pope Pius IX.
The Borghese Chapel.
It appeared thanks to the pontiff Paul V, who was called Camillo Borghese in the world. The chapel is decorated with bronze, marble and gilding. In the center is the altar, as well as the tombs of Paul V and Clement VIII. The main decoration is the icon "Salvation of the Roman people", thanks to which the Romans supposedly escaped the plague.
The basilica impressed me more than. It’s a pity I can’t show all the beauty of the temple, the photo doesn’t convey anything at all, even outwardly, not to mention the state of mind. In some strange way, the soul began to demand rest and wanted complete peace, but nearby, literally a 15-minute walk, is the most revered papal basilica - San Giovanni in Laterano,
which is impossible to pass by.
We continue to spiritualize and follow to the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.
The Basilica of San Giovanni in Lateranois the most revered papal temple. And why? Yes, because the Basilica of the Lateran, and in the Catholic hierarchy, is at the highest level, surpassing Santa Maria Maggiore and even St. Peter's Cathedral. Therefore, it is here that the chair and throne of the Pope is located. The Church itself witnessed five ecumenical councils - the highest supreme assemblies.
Outside, the temple is decorated with sculptures of the apostles. And the bronze doors at the entrance to the temple were previously located in the Roman Forum.
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Alissandro Galilei installed columns and statues above the entrance to the basilica.
The Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano fascinates and amazes with the beauty of its interior decoration.
The interior is in the form of a Latin cross with five naves.
The walls of the Lateran Basilica are decorated with huge statues of the apostles.
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Mosaics from the time of Emperor Constantine have been preserved in the apse of the temple. The martyrs with scrolls in their hands and the face of Jesus towering over them are made in the Byzantine style.
Above the central altar of the temple, ancient Christian relics are kept - the heads of the apostles Peter and Paul.
And again, a rare cosmatesco style in laying the most beautiful mosaic floors.
The sumptuous ceiling is supposedly painted by Pirro Legorio.
No matter what I fixed my eyes on, I contemplated beauty everywhere.
Six popes are buried in this church: Alexander III, Sergius IV, Clement XIII, Martin V, Innocent III, Leo XIII.
After Leo XIII, pontiffs were already buried in St. Peter's Cathedral.
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There is also a museum at the Cathedral, but it was late and everything was already closed. Therefore, we did not get into the museum, but in vain.
There is an obelisk in front of the Temple.
It was getting dark, and to be honest, after the basilicas, I didn't want to go anywhere and see nothing. Someone said: "Sometimes this tasting of Rome is like spiritual gluttony, leading to satiety.
In fact, this is worse than ordinary gluttony: there you get off with stomach poisoning, but here - with poisoning of the whole existence. "With which I absolutely agree. I suggest that my husband go to the hotel and discuss the plan for tomorrow. His answer shocked me. He said the following verbatim: "Just don't take me to all sorts of churches anymore, let's do something interesting. " Honestly, I fainted from his answer. Which churches?? ? These are the most beautiful masterpieces of various styles of architecture, sculpture and painting. It's divine! Well, comrades Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums tomorrow, it's good that I bought tickets not for the morning, but for 1 pm In the morning I'll take my tourist companion to the Colosseum, and then maybe he'll deign to go with me in the churches, satisfied with antiquity. (to be continued tomorrow).
