My beautiful Naples. Part 5

19 February 2019 Travel time: with 10 November 2018 on 17 November 2018
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After busy days around Naples, we devoted the last three days of our trip to the city itself. We have been on group sightseeing trips around Italy several times and each time we were surprised that many would agree to an additional excursion from Rome to Naples for one day. It’s good that Pompeii is included, but there is practically no time left for the city itself, and you won’t be able to get there by bus to many iconic places. as a result, for your 70-80 euros you will lose a day in Rome and you won’t really see Naples.

We liked Naples right after last year's tour of southern Italy. We then had only three days in the city, of which one day was spent visiting Capri and half a day on Pompeii. In the city itself, we also saw something, but left with a strong desire to return.

For the city, we again bought a Neapolikart Turkkarta worth 21 euros for three days. According to it, the first three objects are free,


the rest cost up to 50% + free travel around the city by public transport. It is very convenient and profitable, since the Archaeological Museum + Museum of Capodimonte + Pio Monte della Misericordia already cost 27 euros in total.

In the morning we slowly headed to the Archaeological Museum, on the way we made a detour to see the Church of San Giovanni a Carbonara in daylight, which we didn’t really see on the first evening.

Near the station in the morning, the streets are busy with various merchants

Someone's shoes are left

And we walked along such alleys

Here is the church, or rather a whole complex of religious buildings, here and on the left is another church and behind three monasteries

And even under the stairs, which appeared in 1708

turned out to be another church of Mary the Comforter (della Consolazione), with a small green square

The church of San Giovanni a Carbonara was built (together with the monastery) in the middle of the fourteenth century by the Augustinian monks and is famous for its tombstone of King Vladislav, who was buried there in 1414. This masterpiece was created by Marco and Andrea da Firenze, commissioned by Queen Giovanna of Anjou, Vladislav's sister. The king himself is already in three forms (on a horse, sitting on a throne next to Queen Giovanna and lying on his deathbed). The height of the headstone is 18 meters!

A few years later (1432) a passage had to be cut through the gravestones, because the queen attached to church chapel of Caracciolo del Sole in which Sergiano Carracciolo, a military leader and minister, and concurrently a favorite of the queen, was buried. The tomb of the favorite was created by the same de Firenze.

In the morning, the bright sun shone in the chapel, preventing you from doing good

photo. The chapel has a beautiful maolica floor and frescoes on the theme of the Virgin and the Last Judgment.

The church also has a chapel of the namesakes of the favorite - the Chapel of Caracciolo di Vico with a dome, like the Pantheon


There are many other interesting things in the church, for example, the Mirabollo mausoleum (by the name of the customer, a Neapolitan banker) of the late 15th century, created by father and son Malvito

Look again at Vladislav's gravestone and move on

We walked along the busy Via Foria to the museum

Trolleybuses also run to Neapoli, which is rare for Italian cities

The Archaeological Museum of Naples is the best museum of its kind in Italy; it contains archaeological finds from Pompeii, Herculaneum, Stabia and other places in Campania. The building itself was built in 1615, later reconstructed by the architect Fernando Fuga,

Later, the Roman collection of the Farnese family was added to the museum (finds in the golden house of Nero and the Baths of Caracalla), and in 1860 the museum became state property. In 1957, the art gallery moved to the Capodimonte Palace. The museum has a huge number of beautiful works, here is a gallery of busts of Roman emperors

This is the same nasty Commodus we remember from the movie "Gladiator"

The statues are in excellent condition, despite their advanced age, many are copies of Greek bronze statues. For example, the famous Hercules of Farnese, 3rd century AD. e. copy of a Greek original from the 6th century BC. e.

Or "Tyran-killers" Aristogeiton and Harmodius (who became the prototype of "Worker and Collective Farm Girl") 2nd century AD e. copy of a Greek original, 5th century BC e.

Here is Venus Callipygos 2nd century. n. e. and Atlas from the Baths of Caracalla

Aphrodite, 2nd century AD e.

And this is a combination of marble and bronze. Artemis of Ephesus from Hadrian's Villa in Tivoli. 2nd century AD e.

Pallas Athena

Kneeling Barbarian

Dionysus and Eros, 2nd century AD e.

The famous composition "Farnese Bull". This is a Greek original from 150 BC. e. found during excavations in the baths of Caracalla in 1546. Restored under the direction of Michelangelo.

Funny dogs

Dead warriors

And these are bronze statues from Herculaneum

Several halls with mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum

Family portrait. 1st century AD e. Pompeii

And this girl from Herculaneum is called by many Sappho


The most famous - "Alexander Mosaic" from Pompeii depicts the battle between Alexander the Great and the Persian king Darius III. Mosaic 100 BC e. size 313 x 582

And this is the huge Meredian Hall, dedicated to honoring King Ferdinand and Marina Carolina

The museum is huge, there is a hall of Egyptian antiquities, a collection of coins and medals, gladiatorial weapons, ceramics from Qom and Etruscan necropolises, Attic vases and ceramics from Lucania and Campania, finds from the Villa of Papyri in Herculaneum.

Well, and "Secret Cabinet", the oldest museum of erotic art. and it became "Secret" in 1819 when King Francisco saw erotic objects and frescoes in Pompeii and ordered everything to be taken to Naples and hidden, and the door to be bricked up. Only in the year 200 did the cabinet become open to adults.

We spent almost three hours on the museum, I can’t take any more impressions, even the Vatican, even the Louvre, even the Prado.

To be continued

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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