Puglia and a bit of Rome. Part 14. Rome. The last half day, around the forums

07 December 2020 Travel time: with 25 October 2019 on 04 November 2019
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On the last day in Rome, there was no clear plan for traveling around the city, the bus to the airport was at 16-00, before that we decided to walk around nearby places, bribe food home, and then - how it goes. Again we go through the galleries of palaces, Piazza Vittorio Emanuel

On the way, the Church of St. Eusebio (Sant'Eusebio all'Esquilino). This is not the famous Portuguese footballer, but the 4th century martyr Eusebius. The church was founded in the 5th century, it was rebuilt several times, but a lot of things remained from the 13th century. The ceiling was painted in the 18th century by the German artist Anton Mengs, now almost unknown, but in the 18th century he was considered the “new Raphael”, followed the traditions of the old masters, worked a lot in different countries of Europe, the most powerful people of the era, from Pope Clement XIII to Frederick, posed for him Great


Let's go towards the Forums through San Martino ai Monti Square (San Martino ai Mont) i, with the church of the same name San Martino ai Mont, founded by Pope Sylvester I, the first building was 314-324. The present church was built by Pope Sergius II (844-847) in 845. Modern facade of the 17th century.

The colonnades consist of 12 antique marble columns each.

that the relics of several popes who became saints (including Pope Martin I) are stored here, as well as the relics of a large number of unknown martyrs.

On the left you can see the door of the passage to the underground building of the 3rd century. restoration of ancient frescoes of the 7th-9th centuries is underway.

Next to the Capocci and Graziani towers It is said that the Capocci and Graziani families were at enmity with each other and fired densely at each other from the towers to kill, therefore there are no windows on the sides facing the neighboring tower.

In the Middle Ages, each Roman district was under the control of one of the families who turned their dwellings into a kind of fortress. There were about 300 such fortress towers, now there are 50 left. These towers, about 40 meters high, were built of brick taken from the nearby Baths of Trajan. Therefore, historians are right who claim that the buildings of Ancient Rome were destroyed not by vandals (why did they have to do such laborious work), but by the citizens of Rome themselves, using the ownerless material of pagan temples and palaces for their own needs.

Here is an example of the construction of one of the Roman houses

went out to the imperial forums,

Climbed at the Marmetan prison, from the 4th century BC. e. the prison was intended for state criminals, prisoners of war of rulers and similar important persons. Now it is a place of worship for Christians, because. According to legend, the apostles Peter and Paul spent their last days here. Down, to the place where the prisoners are kept, they are allowed only in groups. I took a photo from above as best I could.

Peter and Paul were chained to this fragment of the column, again according to legend.

San Giuseppe dei Falegnami was built over the dungeon in 1663. (Joseph is the betrothed husband of the Mother of God, the father of Jesus)


The interior of the church is more like an art gallery. We visited this church on our last visit to Rome. Here are some photos.

But we didn’t get to the Church of St. Luke and Martina, which is clearly visible from different points of the forums, like last time, and this time it was closed.

We went back to our hotel by a different path, making a short detour and looking at the very revered Basilica of San Clemente (St. Clement), it is unique in that it has three levels: the lower one is the 1st century with the temple of the god Mithras, the middle one is the early Christian church of the 4th century , upper level - XII century). Even lower, archaeologists discovered the fourth layer, the foundation of an ancient Roman house, destroyed by fire. The entrance to the Mitrium is paid.

In the Basilica of the relics of St. Clement, IV Pope, one of the apostles (out of 70) of Christ, Ignatius the God-bearer, and the Slavic enlightener St. Cyril. By the way, initially (until 867) the relics of St. Clement were kept in the Crimean Chersonese, where he was martyred (drowned in the Sea of ​ ​ Azov), then the sea became shallow, the brothers Cyril and Methodius brought the relics of St. Clement to Rome.

In the apse there is a grandiose mosaic "The Cross - the tree of life", it was either transferred from the "lower" basilica, or was made based on a similar mosaic of the 4th-5th centuries.

The triumphal arch preceding the apse was also made in the 12th century, but it may have originated from a mosaic from the "lower" apse.

And here are beautiful floors, the work of the Kosmati family

The Chapel of St. Catherine of Alexandria, erected in 1411-1431 with a fresco by Masaccio and Masolino from the 15th century.

Civrpius late 13th century, by Arnolfo di Cambio. Under which the relics of St. Clement and Ignatius the God-bearer are now, they were previously buried in the lower church.

But the relics of St. Cyril remained in the lower church

where medieval frescoes are preserved

Below is the temple of the god Mithras, in Rome there are three more similar temples. This one is the biggest one.


Finally, we went to another ancient basilica "Santi Quattro Coronati" (Holy Four Crowned Martyrs), located in the neighborhood. This complex, consisting of a church and a monastery, was built in the 4th century on the Caelian hill, at one time it was the residence of the popes. Part of the walls remained after the reconstruction of the church in the 11th-12th centuries. Modern faç ade from 1628. A small bell tower of the 9th century is considered the oldest surviving in Rome

Cosmatesque floor was installed in 1084

17th century balustrade and several marble panels on both sides of the free-standing main altar in fresco Glory of Heaven. Trinity Fresco was executed in 1630 by Giovanni da San Giovanni

The cloister was rebuilt in the middle of the 13th century

Travelers visit the basilica because of the Silverstra Chapel, built in 1246, in the same year frescoes depicting the legend of St. Silvestre. The scene where Emperor Constantine gives Sylvester the tiara and thus power was of great political importance. Entrance to the chapel is paid, 2 euros The chapel is known for its fresco cycle of 1246,

The small sanctuary is decorated with frescoes by Raffaelino from the 16th century. The floor, as in the nave, is made in the cosmatesco style and is raised by three steps. The altar is late Baroque (1728) and has a polychrome marble front. The altarpiece depicting Golgotha ​ ​ by an unknown author was created around 1700. The marble frame is surmounted by the inscription "Regnavit a ligno Deus" and a segmented pediment.

This is the last attraction we visited on this trip. Then there are shops, fees at the hotel, and "Suitcase-Station-Airport".

By the way, buses of different companies go to Fiumicino Airport, they all load passengers at Termini Station, only in different places. I advise you to specify the time and place of departure in advance. The journey with several stops takes more than an hour

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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