Autumn Venice
Good day to all readers and contemplators! I didn’t intend to write about Venice, although I am delighted with it! But I wasn’t going to write, because a lot has been written about her, shown and told, what else can surprise you? But everyone has their own Venice. Some people like her, some don't. yes, yes, there are many of them, but no one remains indifferent to her, but I still fell in love with her for her unusualness, unlikeness to any city in the world! There are many cities on the water, but this one is still special. And I was also inspired to write a story by a dispute on the forum that everything is terribly expensive there. .
So. . let's go.
Sunday morning after the Milan marathon, getting up early, a quick snack. . as usual, I woke up half an hour before my son, I collect something else when he is already at the door and urges me: “Mom, we won’t catch the train ! " And I, like a bullet, skipping to catch up with him, run after him along the still sleepy Milan like us, and only homeless people rummaging through garbage cans come across us on the way to the station. We fly into the station, 10 minutes before departure. Where to go? On the second floor, on the first - to the right or to the left - the scoreboard is not visible. But we see gendarmes or policemen, but it doesn’t matter. I asked how to get to the trains, it turned out to be a detour, along some kind of escalator or stairs down. Once again rejoicing that it was not I who was looking for this path, but my son who decides everything, I ran after him. By some miracle, he is already on the platform and we run into the car, 2 minutes before departure! Phew, we're there.
History. I ordered tickets to Venice at home, a month before the trip through the Trenitalia website . . I suffered with it. It was the most time-consuming purchase of tickets through the Internet. You can't figure it out on their website without 100 grams. In general, in order to get to Venice, it was necessary to find a convenient time there and back, and oh . . horror, the trains were different, that is, different categories, there was an "Arrow", back some kind of electric train and at one of the stations Venice Mestre had to change to another train, such as the local train, which travels 20 minutes to Venice Santa Lucia Central Station. But that's not all. Tickets were also sold in the same way, randomly, that is, there were only 8 tickets back and forth. Well, it seems that everything was arranged, paid for, the tickets did not arrive at the post office immediately, but somewhere in a day or two, which is already strange in itself. I printed it out, checked everything three times and calmed down. It turned out in vain. And now - drum roll - we ran into the train, sat down in our seats, our car was half empty, there were 8 people in total. I decided to look at the tickets, especially since the controller was already walking along our carriage, and here it started, two tickets were missing! One for my son from Venice Mestre to Santa Lucia, and one back for me. My son decided that I didn’t buy them, but I firmly stood my ground that I paid for everything and everything came and I printed everything)) Well, with this, Mestre decided that we would buy a ticket at the station, when transferring, it cost 1.26 euros, I think. But we didn't know what to do with the return ticket. While driving to Venice, the controller checked the tickets three times and scanned them twice, probably sclerosis). But I didn’t even care much, because outside the window there were such landscapes . . mountains, dawn... Italian villages . . the awakening province of Italy and let the ticket wait). We get to Mestre, the transfer time is 6 minutes! I later found out that this often happens in Italy, I don’t know how they manage to run across the stairs with suitcases and bags to other paths up and down the stairs? Mystery. In general, we managed to buy a ticket in the machine and run into the train car and all in 5 minutes! We drive into the city. . you go and you understand that water is around, it is everywhere. . . even if you are not a romantic, you willy-nilly admire this picture. . Finally, Venice!! ! The whole journey there took about two hours. We got out at the station and decided to go find out what we should do next with the ticket, or rather with its absence. There was a Trenitalia office, we went in, stood in line with a number, like we have for a biometric passport, only many times faster) And the woman at the counter simply told us so. . oooh, it was just a glitch on the site and printed out a ticket for us! It turns out that the one we bought in Mestre was also not reprinted. I can't imagine this even here. But where did I look at home? According to the number of tickets, everything was just the norm-8)) But a couple of the same. I don’t know... my cant, I didn’t finish watching it. We went to the square, here it is Venice! A beauty splashing in the waves of the Adriatic Sea, still quiet and clean. Washed and rested after Saturday night. And we are ready to welcome guests again. The sun has just begun to caress her with its rays, illuminating her houses and palaces and reflecting in the canals.
Grand Canal
The square in front of the Santa Lucia station. The church of San Simeone Piccolo. Who called it small? Piccolo-small means. . hmm. .
The Constitution Bridge is modern. As for me, it seems to connect ancient Venice with the modern part of Italy. People walk along it with suitcases, that's how they go to hotels, on foot with suitcases. No taxis for you).
But these trees on the right, you won't believe it, are the park of Venice! Of course, their greenery is so-so. But you don’t notice this, there was a park on the map, we decided to go, it’s such a 30-40 meters in total park, I would certainly call it some kind of landing. And for some reason, it is also surrounded by walls along the perimeter... which in itself is strange for a park. But now I know that there is some kind of park in Venice. )
And again, I trusted my son. But still, sometimes I tried to control the process of our walk, to which he told me, Mom, can you relax and just go? )) No. . I can’t do it for more than 20 years, I didn’t relax and control the process... I’m getting used to it again) We decided that Let's start from the beginning, that is, from the station and go along the streets. But by the evening, we realized that we had to go first along the station, there were practically no people there yet . . If you suddenly arrive early, like us, it’s better to walk around the center, and then dive into the city. Most, yes, almost all tourists do not reach the streets where the real life of the Venetians boils or slowly flows, but walk along well-trodden tourist paths. And this is in our favor, like us, independent travelers. We wandered almost alone through the streets of ancient Venice, alone until two in the afternoon, because all the people were in the center.
It's good to go and see how the Venetians wake up, someone hangs a feather bed with pillows on the street, someone drinks morning coffee sitting at an open window, and someone screams going to kindergarten. They have their own life....and it seems to be in full view of the whole world. I got this feeling. When I visit other cities, no matter where, I always imagine. . . could I live here? And did you want to? And there is also the memory of the places where you were. And maybe you have never been in them in this life, but now you come there, walk along the streets and as if you know everything here . . I had this in other places, but not with Venice) I definitely have not been here in the past lives).
Local hostess.
In the garage.
Church of the Gesuite, also known as the Church of St. Mary of Assunta.
So, while walking, we moved towards St. Mark's Square. What can I say, the city is unusually beautiful, in these somewhere shabby houses with peeling plaster, but with such colorful, as if toy windows and shutters, with boats, boats, gondolas instead of cars. And they don’t have bikes, although I’m still the only one I found it, here it is, quietly standing in the entrance waiting for its young cyclist!
It was 11 o'clock and I already wanted coffee or tea and something sweet. Well, on the way . . cafe . . breakfast 5 euros . . tea, croissant, jam, butter, toast and sweets with cookies. You can choose juice instead of tea. We decided to sit down, the legs still ache. We wait, we wait . . they don’t carry anything, although the order was accepted. I went inside, reminded, well, the hostess's husband forgot, the cafe is tiny for three tables on the street, inside they generally drink standing up and eat just as cheaply. So I forgot, I reminded you, I said we’ll take it out now . . We are waiting, sir, we are contemplating a canal with the purest transparent water and fish! What was a light shock for me . . fish? I thought there were no fish here. ) The hostess brought us a kettle and everything else . . I'm already in anticipation . . well, how . . Venice . . morning, seagulls croissant . . bliss... bang-there is no water in the kettle)) I call her, again apologies . . rushed for water . . something was definitely wrong with this cafe, I brought it, put it, and then I, moving closer to the table, hooked it and the juice poured out to my son right on the T-shirt and backpack... but that was not all. . we drank in half with grief, had a bite. We sit, wait for the bill, and chatted and stared so much that 20 minutes passed, I don’t remember why, but we got up and went . . my son was worried that we would not have time to see the city. We dived into the labyrinths of the Venetian streets, we were walking. Enjoying the city, and then I was shocked like a current! We didn't pay those 5 euros! Where to find that cafe now? What street was it on? And we have long gone deep into the streets of the city. . mdya. . shameful and inconvenient. . but really how to find it? I don't remember the name or the street it was on. Conscience still hurts.
So we got to St. Mark's Square.
Saint Mark's Basilica is the main cathedral of Venice.
The Procuration Building. Procurators used to sit here, representatives of the authorities who oversaw the restoration, construction and management of real estate.
And it's not the season, October)
The clock tower of the old Procurations, the dial on the clock is decorated with the signs of the Zodiac.
We still decided to get to the tower, even though there was a queue. It was clear that from it we would see the whole city, and at the same time we would decide which section of the city we had not yet passed. The queue was worth the climb. Even stood with small children up to a year old. The cost is 8 euros. And you, as white people, are taken up in an elevator. But this is still not the very top, there on the observation deck in the middle there is a locked door and behind it steps leading to the very top. But the view that opens was enough! The only negative is a stretched mesh, well, you have a chain-link mesh in the garden somewhere in the village, but Venetian) and you are all in rhombuses and photos too)) but I managed to stick a camera down into these rhombuses at my own peril and risk)) I needed view of the city!
This is a gate in front of the entrance to the tower.
And then just a photo of the beauty of Venice... enjoy.
But nothing happens without adventures… I will remember Venice for the rest of my life. And this place is a public toilet, where for some reason a man passes and you stand there in your underwear and wash your pants) And then there was a search for a store . . where you had to buy pants. Let it remain a mystery what happened to me, who knows, maybe they turned the pasta on me, or a tipsy foreigner poured wine on me or splashed a gondola, or I fell into the canal when I hijacked the boat, and that everything can be in Venice) plus some jeans from Venice) .
Rialto Bridge. perhaps the most famous, but not the oldest.
We saw almost the whole city, but the truth is that one day is not enough for complete relaxation in Venice, and two is just right. And you need to go to Murano and Burano. When I walked along its streets . . I remembered the novels that I read as a child. I was 12 years old and I re-read all the historical novels about France and Italy. I don’t remember in one of them Mestre and Venice were so colorfully described . . during the plague....it’s good that now everything is very clean in the city, there is no dirt and stench, sorry, as many write. We met stagnant water only in two places, and we went through almost all of it, with all the nooks and crannies, and even then there were dead ends. The fact that I did not expect the water of a beautiful blue color.
Santa Maria della Salute, next to the Doge's Palace
Having bought souvenirs, we decided to have dinner before the road to Milan. We wandered for a long time, because we were already not far from the station, then there were a lot of people, then the restaurants were empty, some waiters were standing and there were no people, which means the prices were exorbitant. In the afternoon, my son went to Mac and bought something to eat there. I like the food of the country I'm in more. In this, my son and I do not coincide. But what right do I have to impose my taste on him? ) Therefore, while he was having a snack there and plotting our further route, I was looking for handbags and all sorts of knick-knacks like Murano glass jewelry. On the way to the food we saw a small queue for ice cream, one scoop 1 euro. Well, why not eat? I’m standing in line watching, the ice cream is such that there is clearly a ball 4 . . I think, well, they order more apparently. And then I hear two Italian women in front of me - uno . . and he bam 4 balls to them! And 1 euro . . I think I probably didn’t understand again. My turn, very carefully I name what I want and say uno balls, and he told me... here!
Guess what it tastes like? Wandered, wandered, went to the square, and there the locals were talking, the children were frolicking, the old people were reading newspapers, sitting on benches. There was also a tap with water continuously flowing from it . . that is, no one closed it, but since we ran out of water. I decided to ask the locals if they drink this water. Since we did not notice sewer pipes anywhere in the city. And the son suggested that they have a complex water purification system in the city, and he understands this. I ask my grandfather if you are local, the answer is yes. Do you drink water from here? Yes, we drink. And then, as if having heard my question, the kids ran up and drank water from this tap. And we boldly filled our bottle of water. She has a slight taste of iron. And it's just plain water. I can safely say that in Venice you can drink water just like in Germany and Austria, France from a tap.
Let's go, we hear the music sounds . . We decided to see what was happening there, like crows on cheese were drawn to music)). It turned out that the local people came out and danced tango by the water in pairs... beautiful! Like it or not, the Venetians themselves are romantics. In what city can we imagine that tango will be danced on the street just like that? Without collecting money or something else, but just for your own pleasure?
In general, we went to the piazza... in a cafe where most of the people were sitting and rushing around like mad waiters, and we sat down, finally decided to eat. My favorite fish soup, I try it in every country I visit. if they cook it there) So in Venice it turned out to be tastier than anywhere else where I ate it. Cost 12 euros. But! It's like two bowls of borscht in size. And my son ordered these types of hot sandwiches, I don’t know what to call sandwiches . . there were 6 of them plus prosecco. Spitz and juice. Neighbors near us, a couple sitting, heard that we spoke English and recognized us as Englishmen... ooh . . a balm for the soul)) My English is far from perfect, that's for sure, they turned out to be Americans. Hmm . . gave me an idea, I still learned proper English)) They ordered pizza there and also soup, they asked me what kind of soup and ordered it, the pizza was delicious, I think the Americans can certainly determine whether it is tasty or not. And it's practically in a crowded place near the station square.
Fish soup.
At the request of those who wished, a man sang classical music on glasses. It's a pity I can't post the video.
A talented street artist, but why not paint your own pictures?
We wandered into the courtyard of some museum - there was such an incomprehensible sculpture there.
Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, or as the Venetians call it, simply Frari
city edge
New houses, further the sea and the industrial island.
Venetian sunset.
Sunset over Santa Lucia.
We met the sunset, spent the sun, well, it's time to go to Milan, because our journey has not yet ended. It was the last train that day to Milan departed at 22 minutes... so there were people in it, like in our commuter trains. - sitting in orderly rows, but not standing, which was already pleasing, people of all nationalities. But we still found empty seats . . We plopped down . . covered our eyes . . and then I hear . . in front of me and on the right people speak Russian ! ! In such a common Russian-MOSCOW)) I recognize this accent from a thousand . . I tell my son - we are silent. )) He was already falling asleep . . I think if I open my mouth . . everything will start a conversation, but I like never to be silent. The silence did not last long for about 5 minutes . . until one of the aunts began to scold the Italian trains, they spoke very loudly, and she swore, so juicy that I laughed. She immediately you are also Russian? ? I say no, we are Ukrainians, but this does not mean that we do not understand what you are talking about)). Well, I didn’t manage to keep silent . . questions began. Who, what, where. Question: "What's going on there"? I was nailed to the seat, I say the same as you, only we have only three years, and you have 20)) Agreed. It was October 9 . . I asked them who is going to be president there, Sobchak? I joked . . and their man, who was silent while we four women were talking, could not stand it, why are you grinding, is he on his own and on me, but what kind of Sobchak? Now I’m laughing)) If suddenly they read, hello to Barvikha from Kyiv) It turned out that one of them has been living in Italy for 17 years, and two couples came to visit her, so she walked them. That's how we drove, after a transfer in Mestre, we ended up in different cars. They still had to go beyond Milan, to the suburbs . . I don’t know whether they had time or not, I hope that they didn’t have to spend the night at the Milan station. This is how our evening ended. We stomped into the hotel and, peaceful and happy, although tired, lay down on the bed. Tomorrow at 4 am get up and
airplane to Munich, and from there to Salzburg. But it will be tomorrow And today we will still soak up in an old hotel, where in October at +18 the batteries are already heating with might and main and it is so warm and cozy.
Venice has left a piece of itself in my heart. That warmth, that hubbub of the crowd, cheerful and smiling people, delicious soup and my favorite sea, it’s a pity that you can’t swim there. And this is the only thing I regret. Now I want to go there in the summer and definitely go to Murano. But I wouldn't want to live there. Maybe someday no one will live in this city and it will be a museum city, although at the same time it may lose its charm, because people are an integral part of any city, it is they who create that unique atmosphere that we all love so much in Venice !
