Pink City... the heart of India
The train was rushing at such a breakneck speed that it seemed that we were about to take off. Surprisingly, I slept well. Through my sleep, I heard movement near our shelves and the word Jaipur. I jumped up and tugged at a passing Hindu: “What station is now? ”. Jaipur. The station was already visible outside the windows. According to our calculations, we should have arrived only in an hour. I pulled my neighbor from the top shelf and we, pushing everyone on the way, flew out of the train. At the piron we met our new acquaintances. Having agreed with the French women that we would go see their hotel, we took two rickshaws and set off to the address we needed. The price of a hotel room was high, the girls were paying 1300 rupees for a room with not very fresh linen and shabby furniture. We were offered this room for 1000, but it was still not worth it. A prudent rickshaw was waiting for us under the hotel. He offered to take us to a more decent area, where we checked into a hotel for 650 Re.
Early in the morning we woke up and asked for a map of the city at the reception, we decided to go explore the "old city", also known as the "pink city". On this day, it was decided to experiment. Using the method of poking a finger into the map, bypassing various commercial and residential areas, we walked to the old city, surrounded by a wall of an unusual pink color. All the buildings behind the wall are also built of stone of this color, hence the name Pink City. The only catch was that through a layer of dust and a lot of trade signs, the pink color could not be seen everywhere. Although from this, the area has not lost its charm. It was quite funny to crawl through the narrow streets through huge bales of fabrics, garbage, and stumble upon cozy little temples.
The Indian New Year, Diwali, was approaching, and preparations were in full swing around. Various gates were built over the roads, places were built over the benches where the figures of the gods would be placed. Everything foreshadowed pomp!! ! People here were kinder, anyone passing by could simply wish "Happy New Year" or "Have a nice day. " Those who want to help no longer cause a nervous tick.
So walking past the waking merchants, past the huge Izwari Minar Swanga Sul (Minaret Reaching Heaven), we reached the Palace of the Winds (Hava Mahal). From the facade it seems that there is nothing behind the wall, it is so cleverly made. Solid windows and nothing behind them. Such an idea is not easy. The palace was built as a continuation of the female part of the palace complex, and the ladies, so as not to be bored, could look through the numerous windows at what was happening on the streets of the city.
Further circling around the block, we tried to find the entrance to the palace complex. We bought an entry ticket for 2 days to several attractions for 300 rupees. The first point on our way was the Jantar-Mantar Observatory. It contains a large number of various astronomical structures, which are not always easy to understand.
Right next to the Observatory is the entrance to the City Palace, the palace of the Maharajas. Entrance 300Rs. Truly a very beautiful place, proving that the Indians knew a lot about luxury. Painted halls, precious household items, a collection of weapons. Many outbuildings, painted walls, museums filled with interesting exhibits. The seemingly small complex took us two or three hours.
At the exit, I was caught by a Hindu woman with a proposal to draw a henna drawing. For me it was the first experience, and I decided not to refuse. After some haggling, I entrusted my hand to a local craftswoman.
Admiring my new “beauty”, I did not notice how we returned to the Palace of Winds. Since his visit was included in the price of our ticket, we naturally decided to visit him. Many ladders, tiers and dozens of painted windows... You can run around it and play hide and seek all day long, this is probably what the young concubines and their children were doing.
Climbing to the topmost tier, we admired the city and the Palace complex. Many interesting places were closed to the public or were chosen by the military. Monuments from the observatory towered over tiny buildings and showed their importance over the world of people, and in the distance on the mountain stood a fort protecting the city from possible dangers, as hundreds of years ago. A beautiful city!
During the walk, we were very hungry, it was decided to go towards the Zoo in order to visit the Albert Hall Museum located near it, and along the way look for something to profit from. The map helped us again. Based on it, we went beyond the old city and reached the Zoo. Unable to find a single eatery, we bought bananas from a street vendor and quenched our hunger a bit. Albert Hall did not impress us, although it looked quite pompous. Fatigue, hunger and heat made themselves felt. The only thing I wanted was a shower. We circled around the museum, caught a rickshaw and drove towards our habitat. We found a Wine shop in our neighborhood. Only in such stores you can buy alcohol. Because our modest supply of rum, bought in Kiev duty free, was rapidly running out, it was decided to buy local fuel. I want to note that Indian alcohol is not of poor quality. Old Monk rum is very popular. It was decided to take 180 ml of rum (70 rupees) and local beer (95 rupees) for the sample. By the way, many (if not all) drinks in India are sold in containers of 0.65 ml, and not 0.5 ml, as is customary in most countries.
After replenishing our supplies, we went to a local diner. By that time, hunger had completely taken over the brain, and since we wanted to try everything new, we entered this diner without a twinge of conscience. We studied the menu for a long time, chose. I was craving meat. Ordered 2 chicken sandwiches (we got 4 each) and Thali. Thali is an Indian dish served on a round metal tray and consists of several small bowls filled with meat, rice, vegetables or other side dishes, plus bread tortillas.
A well-fed organism was happy, and so were we. There was a question with change of habitation. On the one hand, the hotel in which we spent the night was not bad enough: beautiful painted walls, a cafe on the roof with a view of the city, spacious rooms, but there was no comfort. In the same area, we found a more comfortable and cheaper option. A clean, not large family-type hotel, where our cozy room with a balcony-veranda on the top floor was waiting for us. We enjoyed our evenings there. The first night we thought we were the only guests. Our every whim was fulfilled in a matter of seconds.
This evening was special. Friend's birthday. For a modest celebration, we bought fruits: pomegranate (very ripe and tasty), papaya (a rather strange sweetish taste, the rest was moldy in the morning), lime and coconut juice (naturally in coconut, which we drank before reaching the hotel) and various kinds Indian sweets. It was a great day and hopefully the next one will be a success too.
We got up early. The plan was to visit the forts on the mountain near the city. First we went to the old city in order to buy fruit and water, and then we planned to go to our destination. Finding a working shop at 9 am was problematic. Many are open for lunch. Loafers. =) Guided by the map, we reached the Singh Gate of the old city, and there we were already catching a rickshaw.
Driving along the road past the Jal Mahal (water palace) we headed towards our first fort, the Amber Fort. The fortress-palace is located 11 km from the city. You can climb to it on foot or on elephants (for an additional fee, of course). He's huge! ! For a very long time we climbed through the labyrinths of passages, through underground passages, over roofs, and went out to beautiful gardens with fountains. Many terraces and balconies offer great views. You can look at the towers and citadels for a long time, and the lake at the foot of the mountain.
It was quite funny to meet the tourists that you met before in Delhi and Agra, especially the Russians. Incredible India =)
At the exit from the fort, we noticed a small shop. We went there and could not resist - we bought a dairy product called lassi. It became our mania for the whole trip!! ! I have never had such a delicious drink!
Having descended from Amber to the foot, we caught a rickshaw and drove to the next fort - Jaigarh. In principle, it would be possible to climb to it along the curtain wall from Amber, but the heat was such that we did not dare. Admission is 85 Rs+ for photography (we ignored the second part of the fee and took pictures anyway). Victory Fort, as its name translates, looks very formidable and large, but in fact is more abandoned and not well maintained. Huge thickets of weeds, and half-grown structures. The fort is home to many monkeys, which we encountered at every turn. The view from the fort is magnificent.
Judging by our tickets, we should have visited another fort - Nahargarh Fort, but our strength was already at zero. After visiting the forts, we headed towards the old city, but along the way we stopped to take pictures of the Jal Mahal. Previously, it was the summer residence of the royal family, but now it is closed and you can ride a boat to it. The palace seems to float above the water. Everyone who comes to the capital of Rajasthan should see it!
Immediately on the embankment, preparations were underway for Diwali. The entire floor was painted with flowers, along the contours of which candles were laid out. Here we greatly regretted that we were leaving and would not find the holiday in Jaipur, on this fabulous embankment. Just imagine how beautiful the Palace will be in bright lights, and how hundreds of candles will color this embankment. Eh... not fate!
We prepared for dinner just as carefully as on the eve, because my personality became one more year older =) Sugar apple or Annona is a very tasty fruit, I recommend it. Water chestnut - rare horror! By the way, many fruits that seemed unfamiliar to us, but it was interesting to try, we just asked to be allowed to cut off, break off, bite =) The sellers often went to meet us and laughed when I grimaced and spat. In the evening, we bought more sweets that we liked on the eve, and sitting on the balcony near the room, we had a modest feast.
The next day we had a plane to GOA. The airport in Jaipur is divided into several terminals. They are all new, clean, cool and quiet. Before entering the airport, according to tradition, we were met by “checkers”. A stern Sikh policeman, moving his mustache menacingly, asked to see our passports. Taking my passport in his hands, he slowly looked at my photo in the passport, then at me, then again at the passport photo, and then, turning his face to my fellow traveler, silently, with only his eyes and facial expressions, as if asked “she? ”, The fellow traveler With all seriousness on his face, he nodded sharply in agreement. The Sikh liked the affirmative answer. Then he took his fellow traveler's passport, looked at the photo, and then, raising his eyes to him, began to wink his black eyes quickly, quickly! There was such mischief in those eyes that we couldn't help laughing! Having laughed together, we received our passports from the cheerful Sikh and entered the airport hall. The mood was so wonderful and positive that we could not wipe the smile off our faces for a long time. Even now, remembering this playful policeman, I have a smile on my face - such warmth came from him!
In India, domestic flights are organized on the one hand - convenient, on the other - funny for us. Planes are the same buses. He flew in - landed some - picked up the others right there, and flew on! And so from point to point. We had a flight Jaipur-Dabolim, with a stopover in Ahmedabad. From Jaipur, the plane flew half empty, in Ahmedabad we stood for about 30 minutes. During this time, everyone who needed to get out left, and immediately after them a landing of about twenty cleaners flew in. Only after they cleaned everything and left, they launched the rest of the people, and then the plane was already stuffed to the very tomatoes. We had some local celebrity on the plane with whom everyone took pictures with, but we, being ignorant of Bollywood, could not identify him.
The whole flight with a stop lasted three and a half hours, ahead of us was the ocean, palm trees and complete relaxation!! !
