Guadeloupe
We started with theoretical preparation. We printed out Google maps of the island and extracts from guidebooks (Wikipedia and tour sites).
We started from the Eastern part of the island - Grande-Terre.
To begin with, we visited the main city of Guadeloupe - Pointe-a-Pitre. Basically, nothing special. Typical colonial Caribbean town. All sights can be safely skipped, they do not represent anything of value. The same applies to other cities in Guadeloupe (and Martinique too). In the Antilles in general, the main treasure is nature, and everything that people have built is so ...nonsense. After all, these places have always been a remote province.
We drive further along the highway, along the coast. Behind Pointe-a-Pitre there is a small place Marina (La Marina). This is a yacht club and the center of evening and night life, not far from the local Aquarium (we did not go into it). Some ladies even go in evening dresses. Although the form of clothing - any. We have chosen Zoo Rock Cafe.
Not far on the mountain is the Fort du Bas fortress. Small, well maintained, good view from the mountain.
Further on, Le Gosier Beach, “famous for its excellent leisure infrastructure, nightlife and beautiful beaches. ” And who wrote it? Was he even here? Nice regular beach, small, little shade. In the water there is ...grass in some quantities. The beach is still in the bay, the water is not perfectly clear (by Caribbean standards). Feel free to put this beach 4 stars and move on.
We see a sign on “PlageSaintFelix” Turn off. On the shore, it is already called AnseCanot beach ...A picturesque place, there are few people and infrastructure, there are many trees - there is where to hide in the shade.
It is not in vain that I constantly mention the shade on the beaches. In the tropics, in the open sun, you can burn out in an hour, even if you seem to be well tanned.
In terms of water quality - the same as Gozier. Beach for 4 stars (possibly with a plus - for a lover of solitude).
We drive a little further. The road turns along the sea, and on the side is the beach (Saline? ).
There is no one on the beach. It is understandable - at the edge of the sea there are heaps of grass. We are passing.
Next stop is the beach at Sainte-Anne – “13km east of Sainte-Anne lies the luxurious Caravel Beach with pristine white sand and excellent conditions for water sports. ” Another hello to the authors of guidebooks. Beach in the city. The sand is good, but ordinary. But there is a diving center, windsurfing, kayaks - really. The water is clean and finally grass-free. The truth is very small - maximum - on the neck. The beach is large, there is a shade from the trees, a market with souvenirs, fruits and clothes, cafes and restaurants. That is, the infrastructure is at the level. There are a lot of people (by Caribbean standards). Reminds me of Odessa Arcadia in June on a weekday. Nice beach, especially for party lovers. 5 stars.
We go further, the goal is the beach of Saint-Francois (Saint-Francois). We're going for quite some time. The beach is good - infrastructure, shade, clean water, good sand.
In addition, there is where to snorkel - there are corals, fish. For some reason, the bottom is littered with huge champagne bottles.
Well, that's it, on the south coast of Grande Terra we have reached the end of civilization.
We return back not along the sea, but crossing the island. Picturesque hilly (slightly mountainous? ) terrain, many towns and villages.
The next stage is Bas-Terre. We drive through the National Park (“National Park of the island of Guadeloupe, which occupies almost the entire central part of the island (about 17.3 thousand hectares). The park is declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and protects the mountain rainforest, the massifs of which cover the slopes of the ridges stretching from northwest to south -East across the island. The park contains a huge number of unique flora species, including rare species of orchids and tree ferns, mahogany and hevea. ”), from Vernou to Mahaut.
The road is very good.
Each landmark is marked with a sign and a parking lot. The main thing is not to yawn. Several hiking trails start along the road, lasting from 5 minutes to 3.5 hours. All routes are equipped - signs, signs with the names of trees, bridges over streams, steps where necessary. In general, you travel through the jungle with European amenities! There is something to see!
We first went to the Cascadeaux Ecrevisses waterfall. 5 minutes walk from the road along the road, a very nice waterfall, 7 meters high. A beautiful place.
Then we stopped at MaisondelaForet. In a small museum type, we got hold of booklets, and made a walk for 20 minutes (there is also an hour). Walk along the suspension bridge over the river and further through the jungle. It's hard to describe...Walking through the forest is generally interesting (especially for the steppe or city dwellers), but through the tropical...Photos can partially convey the feeling...It was very cool!
In other places, we did not go deep into the forest - we saved our strength. But a lover of hiking forest walks has a place to roam! ! !
Yes, and the trip by car through the mountain rainforest is also a pleasure. You just need to remember to stop at the recommended places and look around and take pictures.
On the outskirts of the forest there is a zoo. Having learned the price (13.5 euros) we decided not to visit. Moreover, from the reviews it was clear that he did not differ in the variety of animals.
We drive up to the sea and at Mahaut we turn north, along the sea. The guidebook promises us several beaches (“To the south stretches a whole series of magnificent beaches - Deshay, Bouillet, Pointe-Noire, Bayleaf, Malendur and others. ”)
We drive up to the first one, Pointe Noire (Pointe Noire). Y-yes ...it's hard to call it a beach ...so, a place for swimming ...We don't linger. The second, Deshaies (Deshai) is a beach, but small, uncomfortable, not beautiful, within the city. There is a diving center. In general, we did not like it, did not swim.
Let's go further.
The last resort is Grands Anse Beach. Let's go, let's go. Yeah, here's the sign "Plage Grande Anse". We turn onto ...you can’t call it expensive. I immediately remembered the Motherland ...We crawl at the speed of a pedestrian (although a rental car, we still need it! ) And curse. We crawl for a long time (at least we think so). A little uplifting is the fact that a dozen cars are coming towards us. So, parking...wow! Indescribable beauty! Huge sandy beach framed by mountains! There are few people - mostly young people and lovers of loneliness. In fact, there is even a cafe. The strip of sand is very wide, but there is vegetation under the trees. The wave hits the shore - gorgeous. The captain gaped slightly, was knocked down and thrown ashore))). We swim, we wallow, we swim again, we wallow again (fortunately - clouds). In the distance, at the other end of the beach, we notice some crowds of people and, like, the roofs of buildings.
We get into the car, drive onto the highway, after a couple of kilometers we turn off ...Oh, a miracle!
The road is short and good leads to the other end of the beach, and on it - all the attributes of civilization - restaurants, cafes, souvenir stalls and so on ...Places - heaps, even under the sun, even under the trees. The water is perfectly clean, although both the wave and the bottom are sandy. It's just that the sand here is large, heavy, and does not torment the water.
But first you need to eat! We choose a restaurant. A set lunch for three (aperitif “Planteur” (rum with cane sugar and lemon), starter (vegetables with some ...but delicious), fried fish with rice, a glass of wine, a piece of pineapple) costs 46 euros. The fish is very big and tasty. And watered with an unusual seasoning - raw onions and garlic are definitely present in it). Rice - with beans - so-so. Eat heartily.
We bathed, and went into the shade to take a nap. Well! We swam from the heart, tumbled in the waves. The first mate caught the woof, was thrown ashore by the wave and tore his swimming trunks))).
It's evening already. We're going home. We go along the sea.
Hills, sugar cane plantations… On the way we meet three more beaches, the first one is non-existent, the second one is not visible from the road, there is no strength to check. The third, right along the road, like nothing, a wide strip of sand. But WAVES! We stop to look and take pictures. Swimming is not risky.
Further to the port itself, nothing special.
Our next destination is the mountains. The same Bas-Terre, only its southern part. This time we turn onto PetitBourge, passing Goyave, CapesterreBelleEau. A beautiful road, on the left - the sea, on the right, mountains are visible in the distance. After CapesterreBelleEau, there are not only sugarcane, but also banana plantations along the road. The views from the road are quite picturesque, a riot of tropical greenery, mountains and the sea.
We do not yawn, we are looking for a turn to our goal - LeschutesduCarbet (Chutes du Carbet waterfalls). So, there is, we turn off, we rise along the serpentine higher and higher. Arrived - parking. A visit to the waterfalls is paid (1 euro). OK. At the same time, we are told that only the second waterfall is available, the first one is closed.
We are not very upset - the second one, although lower by 5 meters, is more beautiful. In addition, you need to walk to the first one from the second one and a half hours ...Right next to the entrance you can see two waterfalls at once, although in the distance.
The walk through the jungle to the second waterfall takes 30 minutes. This is exactly a walk, not a hike - the path is so equipped - just some kind of boulevard. Although it is necessary to jump up and down the stairs. We approached the waterfall...Of course, we were warned that it was impossible to go further than the observation deck, but...the waterfall itself is hard to see from it, and you can’t take sensible photos. Even the waterfall itself, not like our beautiful faces against its background...It's sad...Tourists come up, look, take a couple of pictures and go back...
But...why not jump over the fence? There is no security. To hell with her, with civilization, tired! Especially since I'm not European. I am followed by the Lithuanian part of our small group. We walk along the path.
But this is a completely different matter! Now we see a waterfall 110 meters high, very beautiful and now close. While we are taking pictures, another 10 French people join us ...Our Romanian diaspora descends next. Yes, it is difficult to teach people order, but on the contrary - instantly.
We return to the car, satisfied with the quality of the waterfall and our ingenuity. Paul grunts that he is “tired” (tired, that is). What will he say tomorrow at the volcano?
We go down by car a little lower - the mountain lake GrandEtang. From the road to it 300 meters. Beautiful. There is a trail around the lake (one and a half hour walk). Let's go a little deeper...It's clear - again a trip through the jungle, and apparently - the best view of the lake was at the beginning. We return immediately.
Ufff ...The tourist program of the day is completed, let's move on to beach procedures. We are going to our favorite Grands Anse beach. We drive through Bass-Terre and north along the sea. It is already a little drier here - the greenery is not so lush.
The road is a serpentine in the mountains, basically. In Mahaut, we close the circle - we have already traveled around Basse-Terre.
The waves are back on the beach. And even stronger. There was a moment when I felt such a force of the wave that one awkward movement - and ...I tumble for a long time and hurt ...Just in case, I moved to where the wave is smaller and there are more people nearby.
The next day, our goal is La Soufriere volcano. The road is the same as to the waterfalls, only you need to turn a little further, to Saint-Claude. Again mountain serpentine, jungle, and here we are in the parking lot. Height - 900 meters. It became noticeably cooler - 23 degrees instead of the usual 27. Near the parking lot, at the beginning of the route, there is a swimming pool with warm running water. It reminded me of Cleopatra's pool in Turkey (Pammukkale), only smaller and without columns.
The sign says it's an hour and a half walk to the top. Begin. The first part is a relatively gentle climb through the forest. But Paul plaintively asks everyone he meets how far to go?
We leave on a plateau - the height is 1150 meters. This is where the forest ends and bushes and grass begin. Further, the ascent is already a little steeper, in an arc, along the slope. The views are just crazy! You can see half of the island! Paul increasingly asks to wait for him...Having overcome 50 meters vertically, he finally says that he no longer has the strength, and he stops climbing...And we have one bottle of water for three, what should we do? Leave to the weakest? Perhaps not, we take the water with us - what if we have to spend the night at the top? ))).
Then we go faster - there is no need to wait for anyone. Beautiful views from a height, very unusual slopes of the volcano in some places - beauty! We are getting closer to the top. There is already fog (that is, clouds). But sometimes the sun comes through. And here we are at the top. The summit is a plateau. Landscapes are mostly lunar. Yes, I forgot to say that it smells of sulfur already on the way. And on the upper plateau there are two ...sources of sulfur dioxide at once, or something.
From one gas beats with such force that the noise is like from a mountain river.
The entire journey from the parking lot to the summit and the tour of the summit is 2 hours and 20 minutes.
We descend very quickly - 40 minutes. And immediately - swimming in a warm pool! It's great idea to arrange it here!
We decided to swim on the eastern shore of Bas-Terre. Check out PlageduRoseau. It would be better if we skipped it...In general, we realized that from CapesterreBelleEau and to the north there are many beaches along the road, but they are for locals. Weak little beaches with dark sand. More we go there - not a foot.
Yesterday we had a day of beaching...The captain took revenge on us for the volcano))).
We left not late, at 9 o'clock. We were going, in general, to be only on the beaches that day. But usually we changed beaches, going around two or even three in a day. Due to this, we spent less time in the sun, especially in the midday heat.
And this time ...The captain really liked the beach of Sainte-Anne. This was expected. We already know that he loves crowds.
But it turned out that he still does not like waves, and loves shallow water. And as a result, he liked this beach so much that he categorically refused to move from it. In addition, it was an exceptionally sunny day - there was not a cloud in the sky. We beached until five o'clock, and already leaving we felt slight signs of burning. Although I tried to be in the shade all the time, or in the water. But you can't put your head in the water.
I am writing this in the morning. A little itchy face and back. Let's see what Paul has to say.
Yes, there are good and cheap taverns on this beach. We tried the local bokito patty. This is a fried cake (belyash without filling), and the finished cake is cut lengthwise and stuffed. I ate with ham and cheese. Delicious, exotic and delicious. Enough to hold out until dinner. And only 2 euros. By local standards, almost nothing. )))
Windsurfing - 10 euros per hour. Diving - 35 euros. And dive in the beach area. I thought...and refrained for now.
The morning showed that Paul's victory was Pyrrhic. Alex and I - at least henna, but Paul is peeling off, his head hurts, and in general he is thinking about going to the hospital))).
What to do, we leave the captain to be treated, and we go together with the first mate. We go to the 3rd LeschutesduCarbet waterfall (Chutes du Carbet waterfalls). Turn on it in the CapesterreBelleEau area. Again, we climb the mountains by car ...Here is the parking lot. See information poster. So, the road is 2 hours (there and back). True, there is an announcement that the waterfall is closed to tourists. But we are already shot wolves. Firstly, there are already 15 cars in the parking lot. Secondly, the announcement is in French, and we are not required to know it))).
The trail goes through the jungle, nothing complicated, practically - a boulevard. But just before the waterfall there is a descent...It is clear why we were warned, 5 meters of vertical descent - not equipped. It can be seen that the rain has recently washed away or a landslide. But this hindrance is not too serious for experienced tourists)))).
We go down and open our mouths. The beauty. We have never seen such a waterfall. The height is only 20 meters. Although from our experience that 20 and 100 are not very different visually. With the same volume of falling water. But at the bottom of this waterfall there is a lake in which you are even allowed to swim. And all this in such a bowl, framed by a tropical forest ...We swim, we swim again. The water is slightly cool (22-24 degrees))). We put this waterfall in first place in the hit parade.
