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European fireworks - the spectrum of impressions (part three)

27 October 2010 • Travel time: with 10 July 2010 on 24 July 2010
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Paris (fr. Paris (bet; )) is the capital of France, the most important economic and cultural center of the country, located in the northern part of central France, in the Ile-de-France region on the banks of the Seine River. In addition, Paris is of great international importance - the headquarters of UNESCO, the OECD and the International Chamber of Commerce are located here.

The city is located in the center of the Paris Basin, about 65 m above sea level. The boundaries of the residential areas of Paris are delineated by a ring road with a length of 36 kilometers. The territory of Paris also includes the Bois de Boulogne located to the west of the city and the Bois de Vincennes located to the east. The area of ​ ​ the city is 105 km; , if you include the area of ​ ​ these parks, and about 87 km; without them.

As in any other large city, the state of the environment of Paris is affected by the number of its inhabitants.


According to statistics, the capital of France and the surrounding Paris region is one of the most densely populated on the planet. Despite the fact that the main industrial facilities have been moved outside the city, the capital nevertheless experiences the factors of vital activity of its multi-million population. Noise pollution, transport emissions are the main environmental problems of this city, we should add to this the lack of park areas in the French capital. Paris is also infamous for the large amount of dog excrement on its pavements.

Paris is the most important economic center of France. Almost a quarter of all manufacturing enterprises in the country have opened their offices and headquarters in the metropolis.

The bulk (85%) of jobs in Paris are in the service sector. Despite the fact that the industry is being actively moved out of the city, it continues to supply about a hundred thousand jobs.

Approximately the same number of jobs are in small enterprises employed in the field of service (35%), manufacturing (30%), construction (20%) and food (15%).

The tourism industry is booming: in 2007, Chinese tourists spent €79 million in Parisian taxi-free shops, Japanese tourists €87 million, Russians €72 million, and Americans €71 million.

Publisher Le Figaro In Paris, most of the French banks, insurance companies and other financial enterprises are located. The main French telecommunications companies are also located mainly in

Today, Paris (together with the La Defense business center opened in the 1950s and 1960s in the suburbs of Paris) is one of the most important shopping centers in Europe.

Thanks to the concentration of French and international firms in the city, Paris provides about a third of the country's GDP. The unemployment rate in the city corresponds to the average unemployment rate in France (based on Wikipedia).

There are always traffic jams in Paris. This fate has not passed us. For about an hour we crawled in a toffee to the island of Cité . This island gave life to the city - it was here that the first settlements appeared, from which Paris later appeared. The bus dropped us off near the island and we went on a walking tour.

Notre Dame Cathedral (to my shame) for me is primarily associated with the film "The Adventures of Shurik" (remember: ...than Notre Dame Cathedral! - What mother? - Paris ...Notre Dame !! ), and secondly with the character of Quasimodo, writer Victor Hugo.


Near the cathedral there are crowds of tourists from all over the world. The Germans are decorously nodding, the Japanese, hung with a lot of cameras, are respectfully considering this colossus, Polish tourists are vividly discussing their impressions ...Shrubs are planted in front of the entrance, in which a huge number of sparrows live. They are not at all afraid of people and are happy to eat cookies from their hands.

Huge vaults seemed to be built for giants and an ordinary person has to strain his eyes a lot to see the images on the ceiling. We do not wander for a long time in the middle and go out into the street. While there is time, we decide to walk around the cathedral.

As expected, such a cult place is surrounded by cafes and souvenir shops. All of them are filled with many tourists. I keep looking up, trying to spy out the torso of a woman in a hat on the cathedral. I read the story: when one sculptor was ordered to depict chimeras and monsters around the perimeter of the cathedral, he replaced the figure of the chimera with a sculpture of a woman in a hat with an open mouth. According to legend, this is how he immortalized his ...mother-in-law, who constantly shouted at him and did not let him live in peace! But if his mother-in-law had been a good, kind woman, no one would have remembered her, and so the memory remained for centuries ...

I find a sculpture and photograph safely. There is!

Ice cream is very expensive, three balls - six euros. As long as we refuse. We walk further. Lots of musicians, jugglers and magicians. Everyone earns as he can. A couple of mounted police pass by. They look tiredly around the surroundings and slowly move away.

The group has gathered, let's move on. We pass the square near the house of Igor Stravinsky. There is a swimming pool in the square, in which there are various abstract sculptures from which water flows. Life is seething around, people of all skin tones and clothes of the most exotic kind no longer arouse interest.

By the way, all the time that we were in Paris, I had the feeling that we were not in the center of Europe, but in some African or Arab country. The number of Africans on the streets of the city exceeded all reasonable limits. As the French bitterly joke, in Paris, out of four people, one is an Arab, one is dark-skinned, one is Asian and one is white ...


And it's all thanks to the former socialist president Franç ois Mitterrand! Having come to power in the early eighties, he threw the cry: “We are indebted to our former colonies! ". Any native of a former African colony who expressed a desire to become a citizen of France needed only to apply and that's it! No wonder that in twenty years millions (!!! ) of Africans have become French. And the wonderful law on family reunification allowed them to transport their numerous relatives to France for FREE. The current government of France has already tightened the screws for Africans, but ...But the French national football team is proudly called the strongest African team! ! ! And Paris is considered the most "Africanized" city in France (and probably all of Europe)!

On one of the skyscrapers, at the level of the tenth floor, a wooden outbuilding made of lining attracts attention. Well, really, as if some giant bird built a nest there.

Looks very flimsy and weird.

Garbage is lying around everywhere, but not because they don’t clean up (there are just no questions here, I watched garbage trucks all the time), but because everyone throws garbage not into the trash cans, but under their feet. How many times I saw - we ate, there is a garbage can nearby, but all the remnants of food fly onto the asphalt. We saw such a picture only in Paris. What it is connected with is a mystery to me.

We walk around the city, since there are many old beautiful buildings in Paris. Bridges over the Seine are individual, and each has its own zest. The weather is favorable for us, there are clouds in the sky, it is not hot and it is a pleasure to walk. We get on the bus and continue the tour.

On one of the squares of the city stands an Egyptian obelisk. This is a real ancient obelisk from an Egyptian temple, donated by the government of this country to the government of France. A golden tip crowns this creation and on a sunny day it looks very beautiful.

Hunger is not an aunt, and the first thing Anyuta and I go to the supermarket. A couple of bottles of wine flies into the basket (I don’t understand wine at all, so the choice was made using the scientific sticking method), dry sausage, toast, juice and seasoned cheeses. We pay and go to the bus.


We check into the Hermes 2* hotel (Rue Baudin 22.92300 Levallois Perret). The tiny reception is in sharp contrast to all previous hotels (later it turned out that the reception was also ...a dining room where we had breakfast). The group stood and waited for a settlement on the street, since there was simply nowhere to go; . It became even more fun when it turned out that there was only one elevator, extremely narrow (it was written that it was designed for three, but obviously it meant three slender French women with ladies' handbags, and not a couple of men with a mountain of suitcases and bags) and it rides at the speed of a wounded turtle 6 ; .

It’s easier for us, spitting on everything, my wife and I ran up to our fourth floor with an Olympic gait, but there were quite a lot of elderly people in the group who were not allowed to do this maneuver by their health. As a result, the last tourist from our group settled in an hour (!!! ) after the issuance of the keys.

The room was not impressive, a large bed in the center, and a meter of free space to any wall. A narrow window, through which you can look out only by bending strongly, a peeled table and a built-in cabinet. After Egypt, this seems squalor, after the Crimea - heavenly mansions. In general, normal living conditions; .

In the evening we have planned a boat trip on the Seine "Evening Paris". Thirty euros for two and the boat trip is ours, but for now we decided to have a bite to eat and rest before the rest

I pounce on sausage and bread, Anyuta tastes cheeses. Everything is quite edible and we are happy to wait for the appointed time for a walk.

We take the bus to the pier. There Oksana buys tickets for everyone, and we board a large pleasure boat. The upper deck is open and visibility is just excellent. We sit down and wait for departure. In the setting sun, all the old buildings look very beautiful and majestic. People are taking pictures and drinking wine. Women in a slight excitement turn their heads, greedily peering at the beauty around them. Whatever you say, but the word PARIS for a woman means much more than for a man. After all, the concentration of fashion and beauty! And Africans (I’m already adding this on my own) ...

A whistle - and we sail. We turn around at the Eiffel Tower. The people who are on it look tiny, which once again emphasizes its height. As for me, there is nothing extraordinary in this tower, but it has long become a symbol of Paris. By the way, this tower was twice ...sold!


One clever businessman once sent letters to wealthy French businessmen saying that the French government had decided to dismantle the Eiffel Tower, and anyone could buy it in whole or in part. Having forged credentials, he gathered businessmen at a hotel and held a tender. After the winner handed him a suitcase of money, he, of course, disappeared. A couple of years later, he tried to do this trick again, but this time his luck turned away from him, and he barely managed to carry his legs.

In Paris, many rest right on the embankment, laying out their clothes and absorbing provisions. Tourists wave hello to the Parisians, and they answer them the same. Amazing hospitality, considering that pleasure boats sail every fifteen minutes and wave from each one.

In theory, drinking alcohol on the street is not allowed, but, as Oksana said, this law is ignored on the embankment, and the police pretend not to see anything.

We sail past famous architectural monuments, such as the Bourbon Palace, the Musé e d'Orsay, the Palace of Justice… At first, everyone was sitting decorously, but then they pulled themselves up to the sides, and everything was completely mixed up. We first stood on the upper deck, but because of the wind we moved down.

There are landing stages-restaurants near the shore. All of them are filled with a lot of people who, sitting at the tables, enjoy a beautiful evening and delicious food. There are pleasure boats that are also restaurants. They belong to the same company as our ship, Bateaux-Mouches.

Sailing under one of the many bridges, we got a portion of champagne - the guy on the bridge opened a bottle and generously poured water on part of the deck of our ship. Screams, laughter, dissatisfied was not.

We go into the room and go to bed, continuing the journey through Paris already in a dream ...

After a good night's sleep, we go down to breakfast. In the evening I found out the breakfast schedule. Due to the small size of the hall at the reception, tourists are catering ...by floor. That is, for each floor there was a specific breakfast time, neither earlier nor later. We did not use the elevator, due to its slowness, and went down the stairs. The staircase also had its own nuances, the light on it was not on, it had to be turned on forcibly. It did not burn for long and more than once it happened that the light was cut down when we were halfway up the flight, after which we had to grope to the nearest switch, which flickered dimly on the wall.


At the reception, we presented the key with a tag to the ever-drowsy porter. He lazily scratched something in a magazine and gestured to the nearest table. An elderly French lady quickly served us our breakfast.

In this hotel there is no such thing as a buffet, food is given out in portions.

So, for breakfast, a piece of French bread, a fresh croissant, a miniature saucer of jam, a piece of butter and tea or coffee are offered. Looking at all this splendor, one wonders: “Where, in fact, is the food ? ! ? ". I agree with all this to have a snack AFTER breakfast, but where is the breakfast itself? ? ? Almost all male tourists asked themselves this question, while women were very pleased with the food. Well, nothing to do, sat down to breakfast. Ten minutes was enough for everything about everything, and we are moving forward for a walk.

An excursion to Versailles was offered today, but it is much more interesting for us to wander around the city. Until 14.00, when the optional tour starts, we are free. I'm going to the subway.

The metro in Paris is huge, fourteen metro lines, not counting the four branches of high-speed trains.

It is convenient to make transfers - you can dive into the metro and emerge near the airport or at the other end of France. Geographically, our hotel is located outside the city itself, in the suburbs, so if you take a taxi, you will be charged at a more expensive rate. The distances between stations are very small, I don’t know how the distance is, but the train between stations takes about a minute, sometimes a little more. The tunnels themselves are illuminated and absolutely all are painted with graffiti. One of the stops is called a painfully familiar word - Stalingrad.

The nearest metro station was a stone's throw from the hotel and was called "Pont de Levallis Becon", the third metro line. We go down the flight down, and we are at the cash register. At first I was drawn to a large machine with a screen, but it was not possible to get reciprocity from him (he demanded a credit card number) and I had to go to a regular checkout. Here everything turned out to be much simpler - you buy a ticket and you are not limited by the time spent on the subway.


If you buy one ticket, then it costs 1.6 euros, if you take ten tickets, then it costs twelve euros. We have four more days in Paris, so we take ten. You insert the ticket into the slot of the turnstile, and he spits it out the other side. Almost like in Cairo, only in order to get out, you do not need to save a ticket. Signs hang behind the turnstiles, but given that this is the final one, everything is simple.

There is a train on the platform, we go in the open door and sit down. The cars have one interesting feature - when the train arrives at the station, the door itself does not open, to get out, you have to pull the lever in the center. This was done, probably, so that if no one enters or exits, the doors do not open again. There is a board in the car itself, where you can see which stations the train has passed (the lights are off), where we are approaching (the light is flashing) and where we are heading (the light is on). Very handy for navigating underground.

We are going to the Perfume Museum. We leave the subway, on the map we find the building. Anyuta looks at the stands with curiosity, but I'm not interested in all this. We leave and head to the Champs Elysees.

We started our journey along this famous boulevard from the Peugeot dealership. In prominent places are the prototype machines (908 RC). They look futuristic! There is also a hybrid electric car, all plastered with stickers "Do not touch" and "Do not press. " Near him stands a pair of imposing-looking guards. Wah, bayus; . Next to him is an old car, so to speak, the past and future of the automotive industry. Stands with all sorts of small things (watches, pens, key chains) with company symbols are nearby. Look, let's move on.

By definition, Anyuta could not pass by the Louis Vuitton boutique. There was a QUEUE to the boutique; ! I was too lazy to stand under the sun in order to go to this store, but my wife was determined to get there. I had to submit to brute gentle force.


Four (!!! ) security guards in business suits are on duty near the entrance. They periodically scan those standing on the street with their eyes, and launch out of turn couples with small children and the elderly. We stood for fifteen minutes, we go into the middle. The prices are impressive: a keychain - one hundred euros, a tiny wallet - three hundred, a little more in size - five hundred, a handbag, the size of a postal envelope - eight hundred, well, and further, on the rise. With all this, there are a lot of people who buy goods in batches and leave the store bending under the weight of purchases. Poor fellows, how hard it is for them  ...

We got to the Arc de Triomphe, made a small photo session. Here we have a meeting with the group for a further tour of Paris. We stand and watch people.

A couple of Africans invites everyone to buy any kind of gibberish, like copies of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, an elderly couple sedately walks a couple of poodles, a young couple, not noticing anyone, kisses passionately on a bench in the shade, three men in business suits are arguing fiercely about something, shaking documents, in general, life is in full swing!

Our bus arrives, the "Versailles" group takes a photo of the Arc de Triomphe and we move on. We go to the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Near it is a "green zone" - many vast lawns and beautiful shrubs. On the lawns carefree lies, sits and stands a lot of resting people. During the day, this bulk does not make such a charming impression as in the evening. A huge metal spire piercing the sky...To get to one of the observation decks, you have to stand in a huge queue.

The Luxembourg park is simply enchanting. Huge flower gardens with many types of flowers, beautiful landscape solutions with shrubs, a majestic palace surrounded by trees, and shady alleys where you can lie down and just enjoy life. In the center of the park there is a pool in which small sailboats swim, the wind inflates their sails, and they drift from edge to edge. A variety of fish swim in the pool itself, you throw bread into the water, and you observe the seething and brilliance of the scales. The park is a favorite vacation spot for many Parisians, there are benches where chess players gather, you can safely read a newspaper on a chair near the pool, and young people have chosen lawns where you can lie down together and indulge in dreams ...

Dreams are dreams, but you have to go to the bus ; . Next we had the Moulin Rouge cabaret. Not a view of the view, but simply a point from which we will go to the hill of Montmartre.

The street we need to go down goes up.


On a patch near the cabaret there is a road train (a tractor stylized as an old steam locomotive and four wagons). The cost of the lift is six euros. But we have a walking tour and we have nowhere to hurry.

We rise up, a winding street winding between the houses. On the wall of one of the houses there is a sign that says that from 1886 to 1888 where Vincent van Gogh lived and worked. I'm not impressed by his work, but the fact is interesting. The street is decorated with many flowers, it seems that the residents are competing to see who will have the prettiest composition.

We approach the famous monument depicting a man emerging from the wall. This is "Le Passe-muraille" (The Man Who Could Pass Through Walls), a novel by Marcel Aimé . The action of the novel takes place in the Montmartre district, on Rue Novins, where Aimé lived. The sculptor Jean Marais decorated it with a statue that became one of his most famous.

This novel is about a man who wore glasses, a beard and worked somewhere as an accountant.

The end point is Tertre Square. A huge white cathedral towers majestically above the city. From the platform in front of it offers a beautiful view of the panorama of Paris. We stand and enjoy the beauty. Musicians representing the most diverse styles and directions of music perform at the stages. We have free time and we go for a walk around Montmartre.

I remember a small square where many artists paint and sell their work. We go there and walk in rows. There are basically two directions of painting - landscapes of Paris and your portrait, painted right there. There are a lot of Asians among the artists, just the vast majority. I am not a connoisseur of painting, but I like the style of writing portraits. An A3-sized portrait costs from fifty to seventy euros, for the two of us they asked for seventy.


By the way, insurance companies in France do not consider bumper scratches as insured events. In general, if Amsterdam is a city of cyclists, then Paris is a city of motorcyclists and scooters. No, there are also enough cars, but motor vehicles are clearly in the lead. I liked the model of the scooter with three wheels - there are two paired wheels in front, the manufacturer is MAAF. We have not seen such. Many scooters have large gloved sleeves and leg covers. This is done so that if you go to work in a business suit, then in rain and mud, these gloves and covers protect clothes.

We have been walking around the city for several hours. We go to a sushi bar. I take sushi for myself, Anyuta fries and salad. After lunch we continue our walk.

We go to the Champs Elysees. Near the wall stands Tutankhamen. All in golden robes, he stands majestically on a pedestal, in front of him is a jar of money. If you want to take a picture - lay down the money and stand next to me.

Alas, everything ended pretty quickly for the pharaoh, a couple of policemen approached him, said a couple of words to him in a rude tone, the young African took off his mask and quickly retreated.

A little further on, the magician shows his tricks. It turns out very well, disappearing bottles of beer, trick with handkerchiefs and much more. It can be seen that the person is engaged in this professionally and invests a lot of effort. The performance lasted about fifteen minutes, then he collects money from the audience (we, like everyone else, put a couple of euros) and bows.

I simply could not pass by the Toyota showroom. Hybrid cars are displayed in the most prominent place. A small Yaris is attached to a vertical wall, it looks like a trophy on the wall. A life-size car model grown from GRASS should symbolize care for nature. How many car dealerships also showed electric cars and hybrids. This is a separate topic, and I will not go into depth ...

We really liked Disney Store. We bought a set of children's panties for a child (6 pcs. 15 euros) with Disney cartoon characters, an umbrella (15 euros) and a couple of other little things. Anyuta spent an hour and a half in this store, while twenty minutes would have been enough for me for a detailed inspection. Oh woman...


My wife really liked Montmartre, and we walk around it. We go further, we buy ice cream and fresh juice. We see second-hand, which occupies the whole house, women rummage through the goods. T-shirts depicting girls with bare breasts are sold near the funicular. The difference is only in the shape of the chest, this is a visual aid about what size and type of busts are  . We approach the carousel, very beautifully designed and stylized antique. We stand and watch. Out of nowhere, two young black guys appeared.

One immediately began to tie some kind of colorful rope on his wife’s hand, saying along the way: “Hakuna matata, Africa rulez, memory of Paris. ” The second one tried to do this to me, but, having run into my angry look, he quietly stepped aside. The second, despite his wife's slight rebuff, continued to ornately tie his colored threads on her arm. “Little Money Form Me” - it was he who finished his manipulations and, with inexpressible fatigue on his face, looks at me. Overworked, poor fellow! I look at him affectionately: “Know work, know mani! ". After all, I told him five times while he was weaving his bracelet that there would be no money. Offended look: “Know money? Believe Little Money! ! ! ". Shaking my head negatively, the black man takes off his rope and leaves. Well, I didn’t spread the suckers, sorry!

We wind through the streets of the city. We wander to a small pastry shop.

Actually, I’m not a sweet tooth, but here ...A three-story chocolate grandmother, fresh strawberries poured over with chocolate, fruits filled with jelly on an airy biscuit ...We buy a few sweets and feast on them.

A large supermarket, too, could not get around. There are a lot of things on the ground floor, shoes attract me. I walk the rows, looking for boots for the winter. I found an inexpensive model (14 euros). I measure it, it seems normal, I read the labels in the middle of the shoes, and my eyes climb on my forehead: judging by the information on the tongue, one shoe was made in Bangladesh, and the second in Vietnam Charming! After a little thought, I decide not to take them, I was tortured by doubts about the quality.

I liked the cafe, stylized as an American saloon, from the time of the conquest of the Wild West. A life-size cowboy at the entrance, an Indian sitting upstairs with a bow and spear, the figures are as if alive.

Anyuta finally wants to buy a couple of bottles of French wine.

- Oh, how good, but can you tell me where you can find the Nicholas store?


The amazed face of the man, the embarrassed face of Anyuta, who understands that something is not right here, and I have tears of laughter. The man bows politely and leaves. Anyuta looks at me angrily, but then she starts laughing herself. Okay, it didn't work out with this store...

We stopped to rest near the crossroads. Not far from us is a five-story building facing us. Everything seems to be the same as always, the windows, the front door, but if you look closely, you find that all this is ...drawn! That is, the wall of the house is deaf, and artists unknown to me painted it. It looks like a 3D drawing technique was used, because everything looks very natural.

We walk along the boulevard, I see a girl who gets into her car (Audi A6). The car is not small, and it matters why, you will understand further. Everything would be fine, but her car is tightly blocked in front and behind by other cars.

The girl is not embarrassed, she starts the engine and starts to PUSH the front car forward! ! ! She, accordingly, begins to push the next one. As a result, Audi moves the train from several cars further, backs up and calmly leaves! I'm in shock, just prostration! I would kill for such barbarity! The most interesting thing is that none of the passers-by, except my wife and I, were excited or interested in this picture. Is this the norm in Paris?

We have been walking for almost eight hours, it's time to go to the hotel. We got on the subway, almost without incident. Almost, because at the exit of the subway three guys clung to us offering some kind of watch. Moreover, they offered very actively, they almost shoved them into their hands. Anyuta was frightened, hid behind me, I almost pushed them aside with my hands and only in this way could they pass. Those another hundred meters ran after us and shouted something in French. Well, you, we just didn’t have enough problems with azhans (French policemen) ...

We have a snack at the hotel and go to the Seine. We have long wanted to sit on its shore, eat something tasty and just enjoy a pleasant evening. It wasn't far to walk from the hotel, twenty minutes. On the way we meet a couple from our group, they tell us the right direction. Finally, we got to the river.


The waterfront is amazingly beautiful! Trees with red foliage separate the paved path and the banks of the Seine. A green strip of grass stretches along the river and its width (forty meters) makes it possible to regard it as a place convenient for recreation. There are lots of benches and benches all around. What else struck me was that on EVERY house along the river, trees, shrubs and flowers were planted on the roof. Just not a roof, but a forest!

We see couples who, like us, came to sit by the river. All are located right on the grass, with bedding and food. We decided to follow their example, we find a place for ourselves and go to bed.

The evening is simply mesmerizing: it is warm, windless and quiet, cars are making noise on the road in the distance, an airplane is drawing a strip high in the sky ...Anyuta almost cries, she doesn’t want this evening to end.

Not far from us, a girl and a guy are hugging and kissing so passionately that just look, things will go further  . It seems that the couple is already simply exhausted from desire, they take off, catch a taxi and disappear into the distance. Hmm, there are no secluded places here ...

Two hours flew by like a moment, it's getting colder, and we're going to the hotel. Anyuta looks at evening Paris with sadness. Almost by force I lead her to the hotel, on the way I take off my camping vest and put her trash can. It was high time to throw her away, but everything was a pity, so many times they went to Egypt with her. We walked two hundred meters, I turn around, some grandfather has already pulled it out of the trash can and checks his pockets. There is nothing there, but hope dies last; . We go to bed after midnight

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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